Our friend Liz has been patiently (not!) waiting for me to taste the new vintage of one of her favorite wines. A very frequent buyer and fervent fan of the 2007 BenMarco Malbec, she wasn't sure if the 2008 would be worthy of her adoration. Knowing the history, producer and quality of past vintages, I was confident it would, but nonetheless Liz wanted me to taste it before she purchased her case. So earlier on New Year's Eve day, before the bubbly feeding frenzy began, Lucie Fitch came in with a sample of the BenMarco for us to taste and share with customers. The nose alone told me this was going to be something special, and Liz will be delighted to know that the 2008 is a knockout!
The BenMarco wines are crafted by one of the most talented winemakers in Argentina, Susana Balbo, and her world famous viticulturist husband, Pedro Marchevsky. The winery is a family affair as Pedro’s daughter-in-law is an artist and designs all the labels while Susana’s son is currently a student at the University of California at Davis. One of the wines is called “Crios,” which means offspring and the label depicts two small hands in a big one symbolizing Susana and her two (now grown) children.
Beautiful, deep purple color with perfumed aromas of ripe red fruits and roasted coffee beans. It is lush, full-bodied and fills the palate with loads of chewy, currant jam flavors, bright acidity, and a touch of grip on the almost savory finish. This wine really unfolds with some air so try not to slurp it down in a rush, and it shows why the Argentine people are in love with Malbec. Pedro blended in some Bonarda for greater complexity and to achieve better balance. Pairs well with a wide range of foods including beef, sausages, spiced or grilled pork, veal, medium-strong cheeses, and meat-based pasta sauces.
We liked it so much that I talked Lucie into doing our Friday tasting this week so that all of you could taste it too, along with some of Susana Balbo's other wines from Argentina. Maybe I can convince Chef Dan Esses that he should pair it with a chimichurri sauce on his tapas menu that night....
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate The 2008 Malbec, which contains 10% Bonarda, spent 11 months in 50% new French oak and 50% first use American oak. Purple-colored, it reveals an expressive nose of wood smoke, cinnamon, incense, and black cherry. Round, ripe, medium-bodied, and savory, this layered effort has a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Enjoy it over the next 5 years. Score: 90.
Like it or not, New Year's Eve tends to be a day of reflection. As many news publications like to write about the biggest news stories or the best movies of the year, I started reminiscing yesterday about my top 10 wine moments of the past 12 months. This isn't a buying guide nor does it have anything to do with ratings, I'm not even sure if all of these wines are still available, and some of the experiences are not even about a particular wine. These are really just 10 specific, very special moments in time when everything came together and made me pause and say to myself "hmmm! this is why I do what I do..." I've listed them in order of experience, not rating, so they start with our visit to New York last year in January and end with an evening in our home right before Christmas.
1. The first time I tasted an Etna Rosso was in New York for the Italian Trade Commission Wine Conference in January. Invited to a party by our friend Lisa, we needed quick bottle and walked into a little wine shop in the East Village on our way there. To my delight we found a small section of Sicilian wines with an inexpensive 2006 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso. We popped it open immediately at the party to have with some pizza and I knew I had just found my new favorite grape varietal. A beautiful introduction to the Nerello Mascalese grape, it was lush and easy drinking, with a purity of fruit and hints of dark cherries, tobacco and wild herbs, and an earthiness and texture reminiscent of Burgundy, but is distinctly Sicilian. I was hooked.
2. More of a complete sensory overload of wonderful wine, food and people was our 2009 Tre Bicchiere Wine Dinner at Ristorante del Porto with our friend Antonio Molesini leading the way. Each year we hold this dinner with Antonio that features six of the highest award winning wines of the Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso, at a top notch Italian restaurant. The combination of amazing wines, delicious food, delightful people and Antonio's humorous presentations made the entire evening a truly unforgettable experience. I can't wait to see what the 2010 dinner will bring!
3. Our introduction to skin fermented white wines came by way of some of our favorite people in the wine world. When our friends Neal and Monica brought us Abe Schoener's 2007 Scholium Project Prince in His Caves to taste for the first time, we were blown away, as we are every time we have had it since then. What we began to call, in very technical industry lingo, the "crazy wine", Abe's wines are known for pushing the envelope and this one is an enigma in itself. An unfiltered, skin fermented Sauvignon Blanc that is aged in new oak fills your glass with a cloudy yellow, viscous juice that looks more like a Belgian beer than wine. It opens with aromas of pink grapefruit juice, but as it hits your palate there are complex notes of honey, minerals and spice with a dry and "tannin-like" astringency at the back end and a finish that never ends. A true wine geeks wine and the start of our love for Abe and his wines.
4. Every once in awhile you come across a truly exquisite wine, one that you can't stop thinking about, whose memory haunts your olfactories and taste buds until you finally have it again. Even in this business where tasting 75 wines a week is the norm, I rarely run across a wine that makes me salivate like this. But knowing my love for Italian wines, our friend Matt Lirette nonchalantly popped the 2004 Cigliuti Barbaresco Serraboella at his house one evening for dinner and I've been thinking about it ever since. In the glass, the first thing that throws you is the color, a rich ruby tone that tells you this is not a typical Nebbiolo. A true "meditation" wine, the aromas are so intoxicating you never want to take your nose out of the glass, but know you need to start drinking or your wine loving friends will finish the bottle before you even have a sip! But the earthy, leather, cherry and tar perfume keep hinting at the treasures that await your palate. And once you do actually take a drink of this exquisitely elegant yet rich and complex wine that coats your mouth with its velvety texture and flavors of violets, spice box, sweet tobacco and dark fruit, you find that somehow it tastes even better than it smells!
5. We were given a very special bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir one day by our new friend James Moises, and wanted to share it with people who we thought would appreciate it. So with a huge piece of freshly caught tuna to grill, we invited our friends Lisa and Karoline over for dinner and popped a stunning 1999 Yamhill Carlton Wahle Vineyard Pinot Noir given to use by James Moises and made by his partner Mark Wahle. It was eye opening to me how amazingly, fresh and elegant yet powerful this wine was with 10 years of age! This particular bottle and my experiences with the Moises Wines from the same vineyard marked the start of my deep appreciation for OregonPinot Noir!
6. Researching wineries our Wine and Culinary Tour of Sicily, I came across a very small producer on the northern slopes of Mount Etna that really got me excited. Frank Cornelissen , who I now affectionately call the "Mad Man of Etna", is doing some really amazing stuff with indigenous varietals and I knew he had to be part of our trip. Cynthia Nicholson, our partner in the wine and food trip visited Frank in the spring and brought back a few of his wines to share with us. I made a very Sicilian dish called Pasta Trapanese and we had Frank's skin fermented white, the 2008 Cornelissen Munjebel Bianco and his amazing Magma with the meal . The pairings, Cynthia's company, the conversation and of course the sensory introduction to Frank's wines (which have become somewhat of an obsession with me...)made it a truly unforgettable experience that we all talked about for months.
7. Kerry and I had the privilege of meeting Clovis Taittinger about a year ago and made an instant connection with the quirky, humble, funny and somewhat shy French aristocrat. So when we found out he was coming back in October, we teamed up with Commander's Palace for a Taittinger Champagne dinner hosted by the man himself. Eating fabulous food in one of the world's most prestigious restaurants, drinking the amazing 1998 Comtes de Champagne with Clovis, surrounded by customers who have all become our friends, it couldn't have been a more wonderful evening.
8. Our Wine and Culinary tour of Sicily could encompass 10 top moments on its own, but if I had to narrow it down, I would pick the beautifully stunning morning we drank wine with Frank Cornelissen on his black lava rock courtyard in the little town of Solicchiata on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. The wines, Frank's passion, and the entire group's appreciation for both made it a really magical moment. Through his practice of extreme non-intervention Frank allows the wines to take a natural course and through taking that course a very distinct quality comes through each and every wine. I can only describe it as an essence of purity and an expression of the grape from a very particular time and place that you taste in every sip and each one of his creations. That particular place is the Etna and is like no other on earth. And Frank's wines are alive with the spirit of this amazing place.
9. Our friend Rachel's mother had just passed away and a group of friends gathered at her house that evening to reminisce and bring closure to the amazing story her life had been. We nibbled on cheese, chorizo, olives and fresh bread as we laughed, cried and hugged each other. I wanted to bring something special to celebrate Patsy, so I chose the 2007 Jean Louis Tribouley Carginan. It was elegant and fresh, a beautiful, soft richness on the palate, yet with a little spicy kick, reminiscent of the woman we came there to honor. It was the perfect wine for the moment and it will forever remind me of Patsy.
10. One Sunday evening recently I decided to cook up some Esses Foods fresh pasta with a little pancetta and tomato sauce I had just made. Our friend Matt Lirette had given me a bottle of a new Etna Rosso (Matt has come to share my love for Nerello Mascalese), that he thought I would like. So we invited our friend Lisa over and popped the 2007 Pietradolce Archineri with the meal. Again, another wine that reinforced for me the amazing things that can come from this grape! A heady perfume of red fruits, baking spices and caramel literally jump from the glass, with lush, almost jammy flavors of plum, raspberries and oranges coat your palate. I called Matt the next day and said that I had to have that wine in the shop! He assures me it's coming.... I find it only fitting that my top wine moments of the year started and ended with Kerry, Lisa and a glass of Nerello Mascalese...
So, while there were times throughout the past year where life was challenging and difficult, it is nice to think back on these moments of joy spent with people I care about and sharing my passion for food and wine. Because a great wine is nothing without someone special to share it with and I am thankful to have a partner and friends who appreciate these wonderful moments just as much as I. I can't wait to see what 2010 will bring! Happy New Year!
Love ‘em or hate ‘em, wine scores sell wine. They’re used as marketing tools when the ratings are high and can kill a wine if they’re low. By their very nature, wine ratings are subjective. Really, what is the difference between a Wine Spectator score of 90 and a Wine Advocate score of 89? Or better yet, a Wine Spectator score of 82 and a Wine Advocate score of 90 on the same wine? A function of advertising dollars, perhaps? So how did this business, and a lucrative business it is, get started?
Ratings were not really part of the wine world before 1978. If they used any scoring system at all, critics in both the United States and abroad tended to use a simple 5-point system. Enter Robert M. Parker Jr. a lawyer turned self-employed wine critic who introduced the 100-point system to the wine world in 1978, when he started a wine buying guide called The Wine Advocate, published every two months.
Easy to comprehend, consumers embraced the 100-point rating system immediately. Under his system, a 96 to 100 is an extraordinary wine, 90 to 95 is excellent, and 80 to 89 is above average to very good. To avoid being influenced by the name or reputation of a winery, Mr. Parker tasted batches of wine together, slipping the bottles into individual paper bags and then mixing them up and rating each one.
His system grew in popularity and “Parker Points” started being used as marketing tools by wine retailers. As others began to see the value of such a simple yet effective system, they adopted similar scales. Enter Wine Spectator who in the mid 1980’s introduced their own 100-point scale to market their publication, while others followed over the next 10 years as both Wine & Spirits and Wine Enthusiast adopted the 100-point systems in the mid 1990’s.
Fast forward to 2009; Wine Spectator’s highly anticipated Top 100 Wines hit the newsstand smack in the middle of the holiday shopping frenzy, and wine ratings have a major influence on retail sales. On the positive side, ratings can give novice wine tasters an objective way to judge wines. On the negative side, ratings have become influential enough to cause wineries to rise and fall on the strength of their published ratings. A very high rating from a respected rating authority can result in a rapid sellout of a particular wine while leaving another high quality wine without a rating, collecting dust on the shelves.
What you need to keep in mind about all of this is that rating wines is absolutely subjective. The points (and even the tasting notes) ascribed to a particular wine are the opinions of the reviewer and reflect the rater’s own tastes, biases, and preferences. In the end, it’s not my opinion or Mr. Parker’s or the Wine Spectator that matters, it’s how you feel about a wine and the enjoyment it brings you that really counts.
At our Swirlin’ Dervish Tuesday, January 12, “You be the Judge” as we feature 6 wines that have been rated 90 or more points by various “respected” wine critics, and all retail for under $20. We’d like you to be the judge and let us know what you think of the wines on the 100-point scale. Make a reservation by calling 504.304.0635.
Looking for the best coffee in NYC, the freshest fish in New Orleans, a great little hotel in Paris or simply a romantic spot to watch the sunset in Florence? A new edition to swirl and savor, T3 offers a travel, food or wine related tip that you need to know about! Discovered during our adventures and travels, these are not paid endorsements but simply tried and true tips for inquisitive minds.
This Weeks Tip! La Florida, The Best Pizza Ever (so far)– The sunken ruins of Largo Argentina in Rome, where Julius Caesar met his assassins and numerous stray cats have now found sanctuary, is right next door to the best pizza we've ever had. We stumbled upon La Florida (flor-EE-da) one afternoon while spending the day eating nothing but fabulous street food in this most amazing city. It offers one of the best deals you may find on pizza, with a large variety with loads of local ingredients that always seems to be fresh out of the oven. It’s a perfect place for a quick, inexpensive lunch, and don't forget to check out the ruins and visit the cats (Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary) while you are there.
La Florida
Open 6 days a week, closed Sundays; 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. Via Florida 25 in Largo Argentina
Isolated a couple of hours’ drive south-east of Epernay, the Aube vineyards of the Côtedes Bar seem like a different wine region. But this is still Champagne, even though the region is closer to Burgundy than Reims, and it produces some intensely flavored PinotNoirs which provide a different flavor profile to that of its northern cousins. The more powerful pinotnoir grape from the Aube results in a fuller bodied and more assertive complex style with a very fresh and dry finish. The great houses to the north are well aware of the quality of their neighbor's wines: a big house like VeuveClicquot will have up to 20% PinotNoir from the Côtedes Bar in their Yellow Label blend and the legendary Krug also buys grapes here.
Wine has been produced from the soils surrounding Champagne Drappier for some two thousand years. The present custodian of the business and the home is Michel Drappier with his father and mother still on hand to help (and children waiting in the wings to carry on the tradition), but the Drappier family history goes back to the beginning of the seventeenth century. Remy Drappier, a merchant draper (hence the name) from Reims and his son, Nicolas (1669-1724) were suppliers of wine to Louis XIV. It was in 1808 that Louis Drappier moved to Urville and began to develop the business that is still thriving today. The family's heritage is linked with stories of Cistercian monks and their leader, St-Bernard of nearby Clairvaux Abbey, one of the most influential religious figures of medieval France. However,wine production actually began during the First century AD, when the Gallo-Romans first planted vines on the site.
The Champagne Drappier Cart d'Or-Brut is predominantly PinotNoir, with just a little Chardonnay added to provide that buttery smooth palate. It is fresh but mature, has complex flavors and full rich fruit. This has only 7 per cent white grapes, making it almost a blancdenoirs. It has a strong, savory, bready, developed bouquet showing lots of yeasty notes. The rich, smooth, very appealing flavor has a streak of lemony acidity running through it and a clean and dry finish.
Always searching for bargains, and they are few and far between when it comes to Champagne, I saw this wine on one of our distributors close out lists. I bought what was left, but at this price, there wasn't a lot...so supplies are limited, but you can buy this great little bubbly for $25. Seriously, this is a ridiculous price for the quality of this Champagne and you should not waste time in calling me or stopping by if you want some. We bought a case for our personal consumption and the other 2 are up for grabs! A great way to bring 2010 with a recession buster Champagne!
Wine Spectator: Elegant style, displaying floral, mineral and citrus aromas and flavors matched to a creamy texture. Well-balanced, classy, firm and long. Ideal as an aperitif, but could match light dishes as well. Drink now through 2012. 90 pts.
Dessert at my parent's house on Christmas day always presents a dilemma as we have to chose between my mother's fresh pumpkin and apple pies as well as my sister-in-law's homemade pumpkin rolls. But since we are all such good dessert-loving-sugar-addicts, everyone take a small piece of all three ("small" being defined very differently between the males and females of the family), topping off the pies with a little whipped cream or ice cream. I always save roll for last, the moist pumpkin spiced cake with its silky cream filling melt in your mouth and make it the perfect end to the perfect meal! Thanks Missy for sharing your recipe!
Ingredients: Cake -3 eggs
-1 cup sugar
-2/3 cup pumpkin
-3/4 cup all-purpose flour
-1 teaspoon baking powder
-1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
*you will also need a clean dish towel sprinkled with powdered sugar to keep from sticking)
Cream Cheese -1 cup powdered sugar
-1 8-ounce package of cream cheese, softened
-2 tablespoons butter
-3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
-Powdered sugar for topping (optional)
Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 350 F. In a large bowl, mix together eggs, sugar and pumpkin. 2. In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder, and cinnamon. 3. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir until well blended. 4. Line a 10 1/2" by 15" jelly roll or cookie sheet with wax paper that extends over the lip of the pan. Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet, spreading evenly. 5. Bake 12-15 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. 6. Prepare a clean kitchen towel by sprinkling heavily with powdered sugar. 7. After baking, turn the cookie sheet onto the towel, the cake should slide out onto the towel. Keeping the wax paper, start at one end and roll up the cake up lengthwise into the towel. Cool 30-40 minutes. 8. While the cake is cooling, make the filling, by stirring together the cream cheese, powdered sugar, vanilla and butter. Mix well. 9. After the roll has cooled, unroll it, removed wax paper and spread the filling evenly over the cake. Roll back up without the towel. Wrap in foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour, or until filling is firm. 10. Sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving if desired.
I awoke early in my parent's home in chilly Pennsylvania this morning, made a cup of coffee and huddled back under the covers to write in my journal on this merriest of days. As one tends to do on days such as this, I began to think about all of the treasured gifts life has given me.
I am so thankful and fortunate to have the gifts of - + a wonderful family and circle of friends who truly care about me + a loving partner to share my life + work that makes me smile + a safe and happy home to lie my head at night + loving animals that make me laugh and warm my heart daily + physical and emotional health and well being + an inquisitive mind always seeking, always open
My message to myself this Christmas day is to let go of fear and seek to be the best person you can be, today and everyday. Cultivate gratitude and be thankful for all of the wonderful gifts life has given you.
Part wine club, part discount program, "club swirl" offers a great way to try new and exciting wines from around the world. Benefits include our 2 wines of the month, discounts on all wine purchases and tastings, invitations to special members only tastings, advance email notices on special wines brought into the store and more for only $39.99/month! Memberships applications are available, call 504.304.0635 for more details.
December Selections: Laetitia Brut Cuvee
ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY Situated in southern San Luis Obispo County, Arroyo Grande Valley weather is typically known for cool spring days, followed by a handful of warm days, all leading up to a late April bud break. Mild summers feature many days of light fog resulting in low yields, concentrated fruit and excellent acidity.
ESTATE VINEYARDS A beautiful panoramic view of Pismo Beach and Avila Bay on California’s Central Coast can be seen from Laetitia’s Estate Vineyards. Only four miles from the ocean, their hillsides receive a thin band of fog in the morning, intense sunshine during the day and coolness in the evening. This microclimate, coupled with extended growing seasons, high acidity and low pH, produces grapes with intense flavor and complexity. The well-drained soils yield small crops of great depth and varietal character.
FERMENTATION, BOTTLING & AGING The Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc grapes were hand harvested, whole cluster pressed and tank fermented using champagne yeast. The wine is encouraged to undergo malolactic fermentation and then bottled in the springtime, implementing true Méthode Champenoise tradition. They target 24 months en tirage for the Brut Cuvée program. From bottling, to aging, riddling, disgorging and labeling, the sparkling wines are carefully moved, by hand, many times before they are ready to be released.
WINEMAKER DAVE HICKEY’S COMMENTS A classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, each varietal contributes its own special character to the finished cuvée. The result is a wine that is perfectly celebratory, crisp and suggestive, as only a sparkling wine can be. Warm biscuit dough, ripe apricots and summer cherries all show themselves in this irresistible sparkling wine.
CASES RELEASED 2,500
Laetitia Estate Pinot Noir
ARROYO GRANDE VALLEY Situated in southern San Luis Obispo County, Arroyo Grande Valley weather is typically known for cool spring days, followed by a handful of warm days, all leading up to a late April bud break. Mild summers feature many days of light fog resulting in low yields, concentrated fruit and excellent acidity.
ESTATE VINEYARDS Planted on cool benchlands overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Laetitia’s vineyard has low-yielding, rocky volcanic and limestone soils that produce incredible, concentrated fruit. Planted with a wide selection of Pinot clones, this Estate bottling is a fantastic example of the quality this vineyard produces.
FERMENTATION, BOTTLING & AGING 2007 Estate Pinot Noir has slightly higher acidity. In a true test of the vintage’s merit, this wine did not require fining. Estate Pinot was aged for 11 months in an exclusive selection of French barriques, a combination of Francois Freres and Rousseau; with 30% being new oak.
WINEMAKER DAVE HICKEY’S COMMENTS Bright fruit aromas offer a perfumed nose of wild raspberry, maraschino cherries, rhubarb and rose petals that yield to a dark & mysterious palate with framboise, brown sugar, dark chocolate, vanilla smoke and toasted meringue.
Kerry woke up this morning with the cold that is being passed between our group of friends, so I decided to make her a little chicken soup soothe her head and her soul. The food situation at home gets a little dismal during the holiday since we basically live at the shop for the two weeks surrounding Christmas and New Years. After a quick trip to Rouses for organic carrots and celery and some Sanderson natural chicken legs, raiding the pantry, herb garden and frig, I scrounged up enough ingredients to make a pretty delicious soup!
Ingredients:
* 4 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil * 2 medium onions, chopped * 3 medium carrots, cut into 1/4-inch rounds * 3 celery ribs, chopped * 4 cloves of garlic sliced thin * big pinch of peperincino * big pinch of dried oregano * 3 sprigs of fresh thyme * 1 Tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary * 4 chicken thighs on the bone, skin removed * 2 chicken breasts, skin removed * 2-1/2 quarts water * 1 quart cold water, or as needed * 2 Tablespoons "Better than Bouillon" organic chicken base (Wholefoods) * fresh chives for garnish * Salt and freshly ground black pepper * egg noodles or grains, we used the "Seeds of Change" organic 7 grain blend
Preparation: Heat 2 T. of the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Brown the chicken thighs and breasts until almost cooked through.
Heat the other 2 T. of oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. First throw in the garlic and quickly heat until they sizzle. Add the onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 10 minutes. Throw in a pinch or peperincino, thyme, oregano and rosemary and stir to coat the veggies with the herbs.
Add the chicken pieces and the rest of the oil from the skillet and stir fry together with the veggies for a few minutes. Add the water and bring to a boil over high heat Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, until the chicken is very tender and falling off the bone, about 2 hours.
Remove the chicken pieces from the pot and set aside until cool enough to handle. Then pull the meat from bone and put the chicken pieces back in the pot. Stir the meat back into the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add noodles or grains, garnish with chives and serve hot.
Not much to report this week, but my little cutting is still alive and growing, although the growth is a little slow...at least we are moving in the right direction!
It was a stunningly beautiful morning on the west coast of Sicily as we journeyed out to the "Via del Sale" or salt road that runs between Trapani and Marsala. With the Egadi Islands to the left and the breathtaking, looming Monte Erice to the right, the shimmering salt flats dotted with the old windmills come into view. The lagoon of Stagnone has been home to the salt works of Trapani since the Phoenicians began the ancient method of hand-harvesting of sea salt as early as 1154 B.C. The shallow waterway, high temperatures and winds that aid in the evaporation make is the perfect home for the checkerboard of shimmering rectangular evaporation pools that hold the sea water during various phases of evaporation.
"Ettore e Infersa" signs along the road guide you to the historic production area started in 1922 by two passionate men of the same name. Committed to the maintaining the ancient methods of salt mining brought by the Phoenicians, their company still harvests the salt by hand and even restored the 500 year old windmill so that it can again be used to grind the salt and power the pumps that move that water from pool to pool during the various stages of evaporation.
During the months of June through, September the salt is gathered once it reaches the last pool and evaporation is complete. It is taken by wheelbarrel to areas between the pools and arranged in small heaps. Throughout the winter these heaps are protected by layers of roof tiles until the spring, when the salt preparation begins. (We were there in October so the harvesting had already taken place and the piles of salt were being readied for the winter months. Some of the photos above are mine and the ones of the harvest are from the web.) The natural harvesting process allows the salt to maintain the trace elements found in sea water like magnesium, iodine and potassium which make it more flavorful, soluble and complete.
There is a museum at the site where you can view a video of the history and the process, go to the top of one of the windmills and buy gifts. We did all of the above and our fellow guide on the trip, Elisabetta, told us that the salt made by this company was available in the states. When I got home I went to our local Italian market, NorJoes, and found the Antica Salina by Sosalt, the place we visited!
So if you are a foodie and a purist, you need to try this salt! It comes in a fino/fine grade that is a little finer than Kosher salt and a grosso/course. If you can't find it, I've added it to the Swirl and Savor store, click here for Antica Salina. Also for more information and photos go to the Sosalt website at www.sosalt.it.
We are so sad to say that Louisiana lost a talented artist and a most wonderful human being yesterday when our friend Rudy Rowell was killed in a car accident. He was a kind and gentle man and both he and his work were loved by many. We will miss you Rudy, I hope you know how much joy you brought to others through your work and your humble spirit.
"Coffee and cigarettes. Low slung hats. Film noir. House bands. Dark bourbon. Road side bars. Muddy delta roads. Fried catfish. Fat Mama's tamales. Rainy mornings. Summer front porches. Blues. Soul. R&B. Lost at mardi gras. Mysterious tattoo. Beignets. Bloody marys. Wrinkled tuxedos. Jazz fest gospel tent. Sunday brunch mimosas. Graceland. Pensive. Poignant. Family proud. Piney woods. Southern accent. Old money. Natchez azaleas. Chicken-strapped crab traps. Small town Mississippi. In the deep south, atmosphere is destiny. Heat. Humidity. Water. Wind. Wet. Sticky. Hurricanes. Our unique cultural experience dictates the high style in which we survive. My art is my atmosphere and my experience. It resonates with those that have the same tension in their souls- no matter how it got there."
The DC 10, our crazy group of wine and food fanatics, held our holiday dinner on Saturday night with a theme of "holiday songs". Festive, silly and very creative, a great time was had by all. I'll do a complete post later in the week, but here is a photo of our presentation of Frosty the Snowman! Handmade butternut squash ravioli with butter and sage and dressed for success with a sauteed mushroom hat, peppercorn eyes, a carrot nose (of course!), habanero pepper mouth, sage leaf scarf, cardamom buttons, radish sprout grass and a little dirty New Orleans snow of crushed amaretti cookies, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and freshly grated nutmeg.
So far so good this week! With all of the dreary weather we've been having, I've enlisted the help of one of Kerry's grow lights that she uses for her micro greens "farm". There is definitely another leaf beginning to bud and I am starting to see some roots sprouting out through the bottom holes of the pot!
For the full story on my little Sicilian fig cutting go to: For the Love of Figs
During these festive holiday times, I am constantly searching for great bubblies at all price points. And while Prosecco used to be the answer for fun, inexpensive sparklers, lately I find the prices are climbing without any great increase in quality. Needless to say, I was very excited when Antonio brought me this wonderfully refreshing, well made Prosecco that I could sell for under $15!
Italy's famous sparkling wine is made primarily in the district of Valdobbiadene (Val-do-bi-ad-en-ay) near the town of Conegliano in the region of Veneto. Prosecco is the actual name of the grape that is used to make this sparkling wine and many of the best examples are 100% Prosecco. As this is a grape that is prized for its delicate flavors and aromatics is made using the Charmat method rather than the Champagne method, the French method of making sparkling wine. The Charmat method allows the wine to go through the second fermentation in pressurized tanks rather than in individual bottles. The shorter, tank fermentation helps Prosecco preserve the freshness and the flavor of the grapes.
The fruit for the Caposaldo comes from 4.5 ha owned by an artisanal small producer Antoinio Fattori along with those of other local growers he works with in Valdobbiadene and Conegliano in Treviso. Estate-grown Prosecco fruit, sourced and hand-harvested from high-density, low-yielding vineyards, with an average age of 20 years. It has lovely fruit with citrus, green apple and acacia flowers. The fine and persistent bubbles creates a soft, round mouth feel. Pleasant acidity, freshness and full-bodied flavor finish make this a a versatile wine excellent for an aperitivo, appetizers or throughout your whole meal! The best part, it's only $13.99!
Looking for the best coffee in NYC, the freshest fish in New Orleans, a great little hotel in Paris or simply a romantic spot to watch the sunset in Florence? A new edition to swirl and savor, T3 offers a travel, food or wine related tip that you need to know about! Discovered during our adventures and travels, these are not paid endorsements but simply tried and true tips for inquisitive minds .
This Weeks Tip! Castelvetrano Olives (nocellara del belice) – In the Belice Valley of northwest Sicily, olive-growing dates back to the 8th century BC and the Greek colonies. The flat, red soil and warm Mediterranean climate provide the perfect growing conditions for some of the best olives in the world. Castelvetranos are harvested young and cured in lightly salted brine, which accounts for their bright green hue and meaty texture. With a mild, nuanced flavor that's both salty and sweet, the fruit appeals not only to olive aficionados, but also to those who shy away from stronger, brinier varieties. I was very excited to find these deliciously plump, meaty olives on the Wholefoods olive bar when we returned from Sicily! If you can't find them, you can purchase them here at the swirl and savor store.
All of that writing about the Bastianich Vespa Bianco made my mouth water, so I had to cook something to pair with it! And of course a recipe from Lidia's Italy was most appropriate! I forgot to buy the chives when I went shopping so I substituted with fresh thyme stems, a little tricky to tie, but they worked!
Cook the “purses” just long enough to brown them. Overcooking will make them salty and, as Prosciutto di Parma is a carefully cured product, it doesn’t need to be cooked to be rendered edible. When buying the prosciutto, ask for slices from the widest part of the ham that will measure about 8 inches by 4 inches.
Yields 20 purses
20 sturdy fresh chives, each at least 5 inches long 10 thin slices of Prosciutto di Parma, each approximately 8- x 4- inches 20 teaspoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1/2 cup) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Ripe fresh figs, cut into quarters or thin wedges of ripe cantaloupe or honeydew melon
Bring a large skillet of water to a boil and add the chives. Stir, separating the chives gently, just until they turn bright green, about 5 seconds. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a bowl of cold water and let stand a few seconds to stop the cooking. Remove the chives and drain them on paper towels.
Cut the prosciutto slices in half crosswise to make pieces that measure approximately 4- x 4- inches. Place 1 teaspoon grated cheese in the center of each square and gather the edges of the prosciutto over the cheese to form a “purse” with a rounded bottom and ruffled top. Pinch the prosciutto firmly where it is gathered and tie it around this “neck” with a length of chive. Continue with remaining prosciutto slices, cheese and chives.
In a large, preferably non-stick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over low heat. Add half of the purses and cook, shaking the skillet very gently occasionally, the undersides are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and cook the remaining purses in the same manner. Serve hot with fresh figs or ripe melon pieces.
The life of a wine on the shelves at Swirl can be short lived. Sometimes is has nothing to do with popularity, just the mere fact that due to our ambitious schedule of 2+ tastings per week combined with my inability to pass on new and interesting wines, our inventory is ever changing and evolving. The positive side to this is that you, our treasured customers, are constantly getting exposed to cool and different wines, lots of obscure varieties, exciting new regions and up and coming wine makers. The downside is that a wonderful wine may get pushed out of the rotation just because I need space for the 10 new wines we'll be bringing in for this weeks lineup of tastings!
Such is the case of one of my favorite wines produced by a family who have been part of an Italian wine and food "revolution" in this country. Ignited by the matriarchal maven of Italian cooking, Lidia MatticchioBastianich, and fueled by her son Joe's ever-expanding array of projects, the Bastianichs have played a major role in bringing the culture of Italy to our tables. I've written often about Lidia, have had the privilege of meeting Joe through our friends at Neat Wines and have been enamoured with the family and their projects for quite some time.
So the "old friend" that has returned is the 2004 BastianichVespaBianco, the flagship wine of the Bastianich winery in Friuli. My personal pick for our Thanksgiving meal, and an open spot on the racks gave me the perfect excuse to bring back this store favorite. The Vespa is one of what Joe calls "Super-Whites," the blends that command the most respect in Friuli. The Super-Whites from Friuli are quite different from the whites of other Italian regions, beginning with the fact that they're blended. The grape varieties generally include Friulano(Friuli's most famous grape), PinotGrigio, PinotBianco, SauvignonBlanc, and Chardonnay.
This 5-time GamberoRosso Three Glass winner was created to showcase the power and evolution that a great Friulian white can have. Consisting of equal parts Sauvignon and Chardonnay with a measure of Picolit, VespaBianco becomes a sum of its parts, a wine of uncommon complexity.
In the most recent issue of GamberoRosso magazine, BastianichVespaBianco was named one of the top “50 Bianchi d’Italia”. The wines chosen were not vintage-specific. This was an overall ranking of the best white wines in Italy over the past 23 years.
BastianichVespaBianco ranked number 32 overall, among some of the greatest and most famous whites in all of Italy. Their placement in the Top 50 is especially noteworthy considering that many of the other wines mentioned in the article have a much longer winemaking history than Bastianich.
Winemaker's Notes: A tightly wound balance of minerality and citrus, evolving over time into a more viscous expression of wildflowers, clover honey and mature pear. The palate sensations are more like those of a red wine. Its powerful tannic structure and acidic backbone lend it not only immediate impact but a long life. VespaBianco can be further aged up to 7-10 years after the vintage.
GamberoRosso 2007 Superbly complex, and veined with cream and banana, it is lifted by fresh fruit to the heights of elegance. The supremely balanced, gutsy palate is textbook stuff, making this a particularly sophisticated Three Glass champion. TreBicchieri - GamberoRosso
The best part? You can get this kind of quality and longevity for $28.99!
For more information on Bastianich wines, Joe and Lidia, check out these great links including Joe's blog, "The Buzz", the source of those great wasp photos!
I've been really getting into the wines from Patagonia lately. They offer something different from the usual, delicious values that come out of Mendoza, Argentina's wine capitol. Some 400 mile south of Mendoza in a scrubby, arid, windy, crazy place, Patagonia is home to some of the southernmost vineyards of the world! But don't pack your bags and expect some tourist haven, this is a desolate region, great for grapes, but not a whole lot of anything else.
The region boasts plenty of sunshine and dry climate along with a wide range between day and nighttime temperatures. But the strong winds that blow through the area are a huge challenge in terms of tangling vines and they also destroy many of the buds during flowering. The winds can also cause wine grapes to grow a thicker skin resulting in harsher tannins if the winemaker isn't careful. Poplar trees planted on the perimeter of the vineyards are used as a windbreak and help prevent vine shoots from twisting. The upside to the winds is that they keep the vines dry and keep away pests and disease so the use of chemicals is almost non-existent.
How does the taste differ from Mendoza Malbecs? I get a little more plum notes than the usual black fruits and a hint of graphite as well, but the same soft tannins and light acidity; very pleasant and something a little different for Malbec fanatics.
Matt Lirette of Lirette Selections brought me the Cholila Ranch Malbec, made by a 100% Argentine winemaking team, led by legendary Argentine winemaker, Roberto de la Mota. A fun tidbit on importer Fran Kysela's website, In February 20, 1901, Butch Cassidy & the Sundance Kid, boarded the British ship Herminius and steamed off to build a new life for themselves in the "United States of the Southern Hemisphere". They settled in a sheep ranch at Cholila Ranch, in the deepest Argentine Patagonia, under the alias of James Ryan and Harry A. place, where they were considered respectable citizens. - Extract of "Digging Up Butch & Sundance", by Anne Meadows
From Importer Fran Kysela: 2007 Cholila Ranch Malbec is made from 100% Malbec. The estate-grown grapes are manually harvested, carefully sorted, and destemmed. The wine undergoes traditional maceration for 21 days with selected yeasts. Cholila Ranch Malbec is aged both in American and French oak for 9 months, followed by a minimum of 6 months bottle aging prior to release. Deep purple color. Aromas of ripe plum and mulberry with violet hints. Ripe black fruits and fig on the palate with touches of smoke and vanilla. A truly powerful yet balanced wine with a persistent finish. $12.99
This was a difficult morning for me. I am an early riser, 5 to 6am, and one of the highlights of my morning is a cup of cappuccino made with our freshly roasted espresso blend and a piece of chocolate. But today wasn't just any chocolate, it was the last piece of Cioccolato di Modica that I brought home from Sicily last month. I almost cried as the last crunchy, spicy bite hit my mouth and immediately got on line to see if I could mail order some. I don't think I can live without this chocolate!
So what makes this so different? Everything. It is like nothing I've ever tasted before, and believe me I've tasted a lot of chocolate...The town of Modica, located in the Ragusa province of southeast Sicily, is custodian of a 400 year tradition of Sicilian chocolate-making. Being part of the Spanish kingdom for so many years meant that Sicily was often one of the first recipients of the new foodstuffs being brought back from South America. Cacao was one of these and today Modica still specialises in making granulous chocolate, often flavored with chili pepper, cinnamon or vanilla, that is based on Aztec methods and recipes.
As in the Aztec tradition, Modica’s chocolate is defined by the cold, often hand-processing of cacao, which eases the cocoa butter out of the beans, just enough to make a firm paste. The cool temperature keeps the texture of the chocolate paste rough, enhanced by the added sugar crystals that remain intact. With no added cocoa butter, vegetable fats or emulsifiers, Modica’s chocolate retains all of the cacao’s intense flavor and aroma, a one-two punch to the senses.
So if you are lucky enough to find Cioccolato di Modica, what do you get? The first thing you notice is the packaging: hand-wrapped in a layer of parchment paper and then in a layer of kraft. Tied with a waxed ribbon, very old school. And the bar itself: solid as a marble slab, and yet fragile as an ancient painting, freckled with a layer of reddish blooms. The chocolate itself is bitter, with gritty crunches of sugar for punctuation; this had none of the creaminess we expect from chocolate in this country—it is brittle, it is delicate, it is ethereal. No added milk or extra cocoa butters and, of course, no preservatives or additives.
It is the essence of purity, a chocolate that remains boldly true to its original format, as defiantly traditional as the Sicilians themselves.
Our friend Liz has been patiently (not!) waiting for me to taste the new vintage of one of her favorite wines. A very frequent buyer and fervent fan of the 2007 BenMarco Malbec, she wasn't sure if the 2008 would be worthy of her adoration. Knowing the history, producer and quality of past vintages, I was confident it would, but nonetheless Liz wanted me to taste it before she purchased her case. So earlier on New Year's Eve day, before the bubbly feeding frenzy began, Lucie Fitch came in with a sample of the BenMarco for us to taste and share with customers. The nose alone told me this was going to be something special, and Liz will be delighted to know that the 2008 is a knockout!
rld famous viticulturist husband, Pedro Marchevsky. The winery is a family affair as Pedro’s daughter-in-law is an artist and designs all the labels while Susana’s son is currently a student at the University of California at Davis. One of the wines is called “Crios,” which means offspring and the label depicts two small hands in a big one symbolizing Susana and her two (now grown) children.
