The How and Why of the Best Soils for Grape Growing

Breaking soil down into singular categories is quite difficult. Most vineyard topsoils are not homogenous; rather, they are often a blend of different soils, and both the rocks within and the texture of the topsoil influence a region’s wines.

While certain soil characteristics are suited to different regions, generally vineyard soils should not be too fertile. This may seem counterintuitive, but soils with fewer nutrients force vines to struggle and therefore become stronger. Water is also essential to grapevines, so good wine soils should retain water while still draining it away from the surface.

SEDIMENTARY SOILS – LIMESTONE, SANDSTONE, SILEX/FLINT

Sedimentary soil is comprised of solidified mineral or organic deposits from the Earth, often left by bodies of water.

Limestone some exalt limestone as the finest wine-producing soil in the world and, indeed, it is found in many famous regions. It forms from the decomposed bodies of mollusks, fish, and other organic material that once lived in ancient sea beds and reefs. Limestone and chalk (a type of limestone), drain well but also hold water for vines to absorb when needed. Wines made in limestone soils are generally long-lived and have bright, linear acidity. Famous regions: Burgundy, Champagne, Loire

How were the limestone soils of Sancerre formed?  Sancerre’s limestone soils were formed from millions of years of marine sedimentation, followed by tectonic uplift and erosion. These ancient seabed deposits—Kimmeridgian marl, Portlandian limestone, and flinty silex—create a distinctive terroir that gives Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc its bright acidity, minerality, and elegance, making it one of the world’s most iconic white wine regions.

Sancerre actually has 3 different soil types derived from ancient limestone formations:

1 -"Terres Blanches" (White Soils) - Kimmeridgian Marl.  A mix of clay and limestone rich in fossilized seashells.  Found mostly on the western hills of Sancerre. Produces full-bodied, structured wines with weight, richness, and aging potential.

2 - "Caillottes" (Pebbly Limestone) - Portlandian Limestone.  Hard, stony pure limestone with small pebbles, found mainly in the heart of Sancerre.  Offers elegant, aromatic, and mineral-driven wines with finesse and bright acidity.

3 - "Silex" (Flint) - Mixed Limestone & Silica Found in eastern Sancerre, particularly in areas like Saint-Satur.  Flinty, quartz-rich soils create smoky, racy wines with sharp minerality.

Why are limestone soils good for grape growing?

·       High Acidity & Minerality: The limestone helps retain water while maintaining excellent drainage, allowing vines to struggle and develop deep root systems.

·       Purity of Fruit: The terroir highlights Sauvignon Blanc’s citrus, green apple, and floral notes with a chalky texture.

·       Aging Potential: Wines from Terres Blanches (Kimmeridgian limestone) tend to age well, developing complexity over time.

·       Smoky Character: Flint (silex) soils impart the famous gunflint (pierre à fusil) aroma associated with some of the best Sancerre wines.

Our selection: Domaine du Pré Semelé Sancerre

IGNEOUS SOILS – GRANITE, VOLCANIC
Igneous soils forms when molten magma or lava cools and solidifies. These soils can be volcanic (extrusive) or plutonic (intrusive) in origin, depending on how and where the original rock formed. Igneous soils are often rich in minerals, well-draining, and vary in fertility depending on weathering and composition. Volcanic soil, particularly basalt, is formed from cooled, hardened, and weathered lava. While the soil is a complicated one, it tends to be finely grained, drains well, retains and reflects heat, and holds water. Volcanic soil also contains high proportions of iron, resulting in black- or red-colored earth, and is thought to sometimes impart an ashy, rusty taste to wines. Famous regions: Canary Islands, Sicily, Santorini

How were the volcanic soils of Santorini formed?  The volcanic soils of Santorini were formed through a series of massive volcanic eruptions over hundreds of thousands of years, the most significant being the Minoan Eruption around 1600 BCE. This eruption shaped the island's current geological structure and left behind a unique, mineral-rich soil composition that profoundly influences the island's wines.

Why are they good for grape growing?

·       High minerality: Contributes to the saline, flinty, and smoky character of Santorini’s wines.

·       Water retention: Despite the island’s lack of rainfall, the porous pumice absorbs morning humidity, providing moisture to the vines.

·       Resilient vines: The harsh conditions and lack of nutrients force vines to grow deep roots, leading to concentrated, age-worthy wines.

·       Ungrafted old vines: Santorini’s vines, including the famous Assyrtiko, are trained in a unique basket shape (kouloura) to protect against strong winds and sun exposure.

Our selection: Gai’a Assyrtiko "Thalassitis"

METAMORPHIC SOILS – SLATE, SCHIST, GNEISS
Metamorphic soils have been transformed from another type of rock through heat and pressure over millions of years.

Schist soils, a hard, crystalline rock denser than slate, schist is made of layers of minerals that can flake off easily. It retains heat well, producing big, powerful wines with rich minerality. Famous regions: Douro Valley, Ribeira Sacra, Galicia

How were the schist soils of Galicia formed? The schist soils of Galicia, particularly in regions like Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, and Rías Baixas, were formed over hundreds of millions of years through a combination of geological processes, including tectonic activity, metamorphism, and erosion. These soils are part of the ancient Iberian Massif, one of the oldest geological formations in Europe.

Why are they good for grape growing?

·       Thin, well-draining soil: Forces vines to develop deep roots, enhancing resilience and concentration of flavors.

·       Heat-retaining properties: Schist absorbs and radiates heat, helping to ripen grapes in Galicia’s cooler, Atlantic-influenced climate.

·       Mineral-rich composition: Provides essential nutrients and imparts a distinctive minerality and freshness to the wines.

·       Erosion-prone but structured: The fragmented nature of schist allows for good aeration but requires careful vineyard management to prevent soil loss on steep slopes.

Our selection:  A Pagos del Galir Godello

TEXTURAL SOILS – SAND, CLAY, GRAVEL, SILT, LOAM, ALLUVIUM

Many wine soils are defined by their textures, which are comprised of types of igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic rocks.

Sand is any rock that has been pulverized into small particles. Because sand drains easily it works well in wet climates; but for drought-riddled regions, sandy soil can be problematic. It is, however, often phylloxera-free since the pest can’t survive its texture. Sandy soils can sometimes result in thin, uninteresting wines, but in the best areas they produce wines with delicacy and drinkability.  Famous regions: Lodi, Barolo, Rhone Valley

How were they formed? Lodi’s sandy soils were formed through millions of years of river deposition, erosion from the Sierra Nevada, and wind-driven sedimentation. The result is a terroir that supports old, ungrafted vines, producing wines with rich concentration, smooth tannins, and vibrant fruit flavors, making Lodi a powerhouse for Mediterranean varietals.

Why are they good for grape growing?

·       Longevity: The sandy soils resist phylloxera, allowing for some of California’s oldest, ungrafted vines (planted as early as the 1880s)

·       Excellent Drainage: Vines struggle for water, leading to small, concentrated berries and bold, fruit-forward wines.

·       Elegant Tannins: Unlike clay-heavy soils that produce highly structured wines, sandy soils create smooth, approachable reds with supple tannins.

·       Balanced Acidity: The alluvial deposits contribute to bright, fresh acidity, particularly beneficial for white wines like Albariño and Vermentino.

Our selection: Monte Rio Jessie’s Grove Carignan

Clay - A topsoil of clay expands and contracts with water, but deep clay subsoil retains precipitation and minerals, and can be a savior to grapevines in dry times. Some say that clay imparts a profile to wines that is similar to the texture of clay itself — thick, round, and generous.  Famous region: Pomerol, Ribera del Duero

How were the clay soils of Ribera del Duero formed? The clay soils of Ribera del Duero were formed through millions of years of geological shifts, river sedimentation, and erosion, creating a diverse terroir that plays a crucial role in the region’s ability to produce powerful, structured Tempranillo-based wines.

Why are they good for grape growing?

·       Powerful Tannins & Deep Color: Clay retains moisture, slowing vine stress, which results in thicker grape skins and wines with strong tannins and dark fruit concentration.

·       Long Aging Potential: Clay-rich soils produce wines with firm structure, making Ribera del Duero’s Tempranillo age-worthy.

·       Balancing Heat & Water Availability: In a region with hot summers and cold winters, clay soils store water, preventing excessive drought stress.

·       Complexity & Minerality: Areas with clay-limestone soils provide acidity and elegance, balancing the bold fruit character.

Our selection: Emilio Moro Finca Resalso

Drama & Intrigue, Exploring the Cool Climate Zones of South Africa

At Latitude 34 Degrees South, and with a Mediterranean climate of dry, sunny summers and rainy winters, South Africa’s Winelands are not inherently considered cool climate zones. Yet the region has diverse and unique geographic influences that create pockets of specific microclimates where colder climate French varietals thrive and produce high-quality wines with fresh acidity and complex flavors.

Tonight we'll take you on a tour of those cool climate zones like Cape Agulhas where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet violently with strong icy winds and ocean spray; Durbanville where the Cape Doctor winds cool the misty ocean-facing slopes; Simonsberg and the Ceres Plateau where high-lying, dramatic mountain ranges produce wines at elevations of up to 960 meters; Elgin where all of three of the influences come together, making for a particularly cool and distinct wine region. We'll taste the wines from these areas and discuss how the combination of these forces create microclimates that are very different from the rest of the Cape Winelands and how they affect the wine.

Here are the main climate influences:

1. Ocean Proximity
Benguela Current: This cold ocean current flows northward from Antarctica along the west coast of South Africa. It brings cool air and moderates temperatures in coastal wine regions like Stellenbosch, Elgin, and Walker Bay.  Cooling Sea Breezes: Coastal regions benefit from onshore breezes, which lower daytime temperatures and prevent excessive heat accumulation.

2. Mountain Ranges
Altitude: Many vineyards are located at higher elevations, such as in the Cederberg or Elgin regions. Altitude results in cooler temperatures and slower grape ripening, preserving acidity and enhancing aromatic complexity.  Topographical Influence: Mountains and hills create various microclimates by influencing wind patterns, temperature, and rainfall.

3. Mediterranean Climate
Cool Nights: Even in warmer Mediterranean areas, the diurnal temperature variation (hot days, cool nights) contributes to balance in grape ripening. This is especially true in regions like Paarl and Swartland.  Seasonal Rains: Most rainfall occurs during the winter, while the growing season is typically dry and sunny, reducing disease pressure and promoting healthy grape development.

4. Wind Pattern - Cape Doctor: A strong southeasterly wind blows during the growing season, cooling vineyards, reducing humidity, and lowering disease risk. This wind is especially significant in regions near Cape Town, like Constantia and Stellenbosch.

5. Latitude
South Africa lies between 27°S and 34°S latitude, positioning it within the southern hemisphere's temperate wine-growing zone. The southernmost regions, such as Cape Agulhas, receive stronger cooling influences due to their proximity to the Antarctic currents.

 We have wines from all of these cool-climate zones at the shop, stop by!

Raising a Glass to Female Winemakers

As the issue of gender inequality is so prominent in our current political climate, we thought it might be a good time to support and celebrate female winemakers. While the beverage industry is full of girl power in other leadership positions—as proprietors, CEOs, marketers, publicists, and critics—the number of women actually making the wine lags far behind men. A study by Santa Clara University found that just 14 percent of California's more than 4,200 wineries have a female winemaker. The number is thought to be similar across Europe, if not less in countries like Spain and Portugal. It's traditional in much of Europe for patriarchs to pass along the family business to a male heir, even if that means it's the son-in-law, not the daughter. The only place that slightly bucks this trend is Chile, where women aren't just faces in the tasting room but are running 1/3rd of the country's wineries and producing incredible wines.

While the fundamental principles of making wine are the same regardless of gender, women tend to approach certain aspects of the process with a different focus or philosophy. Emphasizing balance and elegance over sheer power, meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard and during fermentation, collaborative and inclusive leadership styles – while these aren’t hard and fast rules, they are trends that have been noted in regions where female winemakers are particularly prominent. Plus, studies suggest women are more likely to be "super-tasters," meaning they have a higher density of taste buds, which can make them more attuned to subtle flavors, nuances and textures regarding balancing sweetness, acidity, bitterness, and tannin.

As in our society in general, women are constantly having to work harder to prove themselves but luckily, gender doesn’t determine capability. Through perseverance, innovation, and a supportive community, women are continuing to reshape the industry, proving that talent and passion transcend traditional boundaries.

Here are our featured winemakers for Friday Night Wine School Event:

Sabine Godmé, Sabine Godme Brut Reserve Premier Cru, Champagne, France - The Godmé family's Champagne house was established in Verzenay in 1930 by Michèle and Bertrand Godmé. The couple’s two children, Hughes and Sabine, later divided the 11-hectare estate into two equal parts. Today, Sabine, her husband Jean-Marie Guillaume, and their two children Marie and Matthieu, represent the third and fourth generation of vignerons.

Champagne Godmé is a grower Champagne house, meaning their wines are made entirely from grapes grown on their property. The estate is located in the center of Montagne de Reims, in the Grand Cru village of Verzenay. They also own vineyards in the Grand Cru village Beaumont-sur-Vesle and Verzy and the Premier Cru villages of Villers-Marmery and Montbré.  The Godmé family is a classic example of a small grower-producer in Champagne, and it's entirely a family affair. Sabrine is the winemaker, while her husband Jean-Marie grows the grapes, and their two children help in all aspects of the business.

Sabine and brother Hughes have very different ideas when it comes to winemaking. After they split the property, Sabine was free to make Champagne in the more traditional style that she prefers. Her wines focus on preserving their Grand Cru and Premier Cru terroir's nuance, and she employs a minimalist approach to winemaking, eschewing all overt manipulation. The quality of Sabine's wines and the fantastic attention to detail the family applies from grape to glass.

Bibiana González Rave Alma de Cattleya Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California- Bibiana is the founder and winemaker of Cattleya Wines. Born and raised in Colombia and trained as a winemaker in France, she moved to California in 2007 to settle into making wines. In her words: "Since my early teenage years, my dream has been to make wine. At a very young age I was fortunate enough to begin learning how to make wine in France. I trained myself while working with some amazing winemakers who showed me the importance of loving the land, how to respect the farming itself, and to focus on the many details that go into making each drop of wine in each and every bottle. While studying in Bordeaux and Cognac I learned the required viticulture, enology and microbiology (“wine science”); but most importantly, I was also exposed to the many rituals involved in winemaking–things like pruning, harvesting and bottling–that feel so special and meaningful each season.

She brought extensive experience to her winemaking projects with time spent in Côte-Rôtie, Alsace, Burgundy, Cognac, Bordeaux and South Africa.  In California, her resume includes many well-known wineries like Pahlmeyer, Au Bon Climat, Lynmar and Qupé.  In 2015, she was awarded “Winemaker of the Year” by the San Francisco Chronicle, just over a year after being named one of Wine Enthusiast’s “40 Under 40 America’s Tastemakers”.

 Eva López Marques del Silvo Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain – Eva Lopez was raised in a family of farmers and cattle breeders in Zamora, Spain, in the center of the Iberian Peninsula. After finishing her university studies, she had to put what she has learned into practice and continue to respect her family roots. It was at this time that she founded her company CUVÉE and since then, she has worked to enhance the valuable land and vineyards that in the different wine regions of Spain, some of which were in danger of extinction. It took years to explore the land to find old vineyards, some of which had to be restored, giving them back importance rightly deserved.  Working with the local farmers and the best oenologists, colleagues and experts in each selected appellation, “López-Alonso” began, a company she created to produce wines in specific areas to achieve the purity and true essence of the regions they represent. Marques del Silvo is one of the Lopez-Alonso creations - the result of visionary planning and the core belief in quality management and preserving natural heritage, with an ethical and sustainable approach

Marie and Sylvie Courselle Clos Sainte Anne Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France – Maria and Sylvie were born into wine. Their grandfather, André Courselle, purchased Bordeaux's Château Thieuley in 1950 with the intent to create a great vineyard. Their father, Francis Courselle, took over management of the estate in 1972. Over the next three decades he increased the acreage from four hectares to eighty hectares, spread over three vineyards.  His two daughters have proved themselves more than capable of handling the family business - Château Thieuley has earned a reputation for sustainable viticulture and quality winemaking under their leadership. Marie and Sylvie are committed to the environment, to innovation, to the support of French suppliers, and to service and hospitality.

In the 1980s, their father acquired the five-acre plot that would lend its name to this Côtes de Bordeaux. the south-facing, terraced, gravel-blanketed clay slopes of Clos Sainte Anne, and knew they’d found one of the best sites for Côtes de Bordeaux. The well-draining soils and special microclimate along the nearby Garonne River help create a wine with the kind of character Bordeaux lovers can’t get enough of—refined black fruits, oaky spice, earthy flavors, and grippy tannins.

Sofia and Lucila Pescarmona Lagarde Primeras Vinas Malbec, Mendoza Argentina - Founded in 1897, Bodega Lagarde was acquired in 1969 by the Pescarmona family, who’s hallmark would mark its identity as a family winery producing high-end wines, both in Argentina and the rest of the world.  The winery is currently run by the third generation Pescarmonas, Sofia Pescarmona and Lucila Pescarmona, - considered to be part of the new generation of women in the winemaking world in Argentina,together with Susana Balbo and Laura Catena, among others. Both sisters obtained their MBA at IAE Business School in 1991 and 2011 respectively. They are considered to be part of a new generation of thriving young women managing Argentine wineries to a new frontier.

Sofia has managed the vineyard since 2001 and has helped the transformation of the old Lagarde into a new modern facility. Lucila currently overseas the exports of the winery and sits on the board of Wines of Argentina.

Beaujolais, Gamay at its Finest

At that stroke of midnight on November 21, 2024, oenophiles all over France will begin their jubilant celebration in honor of the end of the harvest and the uncorking of the Beaujolais Nouveau. Hundreds of events throughout France will be held with fireworks, music, and, of course, tastings, as “tout le monde” vie to sample the current batch of Beaujolais Nouveau - light, fruit-driven wines made with barely fermented Gamay grapes that are best consumed as soon as possible - literally. But, never fear, there are 3 different quality levels of Beaujolais above Nouveau and these are the ones we get excited about!

The entry-level wines that are simply labeled Beaujolais, are made from grapes grown throughout the Beaujolais region, especially in the south. These also tend to be on the fruit-forward side and are meant to be enjoyed in the first year or two after the vintage. Beaujolais-Villages wines are based on Gamay grapes that were grown in the central part of the Beaujolais region, specifically 38 permitted villages. And Cru Beaujolais are grown in any of ten specific northern locales whose typically granitic soils (though they are far from uniform in composition and character) can produce the most age-worthy and complex of all red wines from Beaujolais. So, needless to say, the least expensive wines generally come from the south, and the more expensive and age-worthy wines come from the north. And if this was all you learned about Beaujolais, you’d know enough to dive in and start learning by tasting but as always with wine, a lot of the fun is in the details!

Here’s a cheat sheet of Cru Beaujolais styles and terroir - take some time to think about what sounds appealing to you and bring your list to swirl, we are happy to help with your selections. Oh and a little holiday hint, Beaujolais is the perfect pairing wine for your turkey and fixings!

10 Crus from South to North

1. Brouilly
Soil: Varied soils including pink granite, diorite, schist, and clay-limestone.
Terroir: The largest and most southern cru, with vineyards spread over diverse terrains. The diversity translates to lighter, fruit-forward wines.
Wine Profile: Juicy red fruits, floral notes, and a softer structure.

2. Côte de Brouilly
Soil: Blue volcanic stone (diorite) mixed with granite.
Terroir: Located on the slopes of Mont Brouilly, the vineyards benefit from steep gradients and good drainage.
Wine Profile: Elegant and structured, with notes of red fruits, violets, and mineral undertones.

3. Régnié
Soil: Pink granite with sandy and stony textures.
Terroir: The youngest cru, producing approachable and vibrant wines.
Wine Profile: Fruity and fresh, with red currant, raspberry, and spice notes.

4. Morgon
Soil: Decomposed schist and manganese-rich granite known as "roches pourries" (rotten rocks).
Terroir: The second largest cru, known for producing structured, age-worthy wines.
Wine Profile: Full-bodied, with flavors of cherries, plums, and earthy minerality.

5. Chiroubles
Soil: Sandy and granitic, with shallow topsoil.
Terroir: Vineyards at the highest altitudes among the crus, producing wines with freshness and finesse.
Wine Profile: Light, aromatic, with bright red fruits and floral elements.

6. Fleurie
Soil: Pink granite, light and sandy, with good drainage.
Terroir: One of the most famous crus, known for its delicate and aromatic wines.
Wine Profile: Elegant, with floral notes like violets and roses, combined with red berry flavors.

7. Moulin-à-Vent
Soil: Granite with manganese deposits.
Terroir: Named after the local windmill, this cru produces some of the most structured and tannic wines in Beaujolais.
Wine Profile: Concentrated, with dark fruits, floral notes, and potential for long aging.

8. Chénas
Soil: Granite and quartz with some clay.
Terroir: Smallest of the crus, known for its floral and age-worthy wines.
Wine Profile: Aromatic, with rose and peony scents, plus red fruits and a firm structure.

9. Juliénas
Soil: Granite, schist, and clay-limestone.
Terroir: A mix of slopes and valleys creates varied expressions. The cru is named after Julius Caesar, reflecting its long history.
Wine Profile: Robust and spicy, with black fruits and floral hints.

10. Saint-Amour
Soil: Clay-limestone in the north and granite in the south.
Terroir: Located in the northernmost part of Beaujolais, near the Mâconnais.
Wine Profile: Diverse styles—light and fruity to fuller and spicier.

What a Difference a Year Makes, Explaining Vintage Variation

Vintage variation in wine refers to the differences in the characteristics and quality of wines produced from the same vineyard or region in different years. These variations are primarily influenced by the weather and climate conditions experienced during a particular growing season, including factors such as temperature, rainfall, and sunshine. In years with ideal weather conditions, such as a balanced mix of sun and rain, grapes can ripen perfectly, leading to a vintage with well-structured, flavorful wines. Conversely, a growing season with too much rain, frost, or extreme heat can result in grapes that are under-ripe, overripe, or unevenly developed, leading to wines that may lack balance or complexity. Additionally, the timing of the harvest, influenced by weather patterns, can impact the final wine, as grapes picked too early or too late may not achieve their full potential. As a result, each vintage offers a unique snapshot of that year’s conditions, making wine an ever-changing, dynamic product where no two vintages are exactly alike.

Wine vintages are then rated by a combination of wine critics, publications, and organizations that assess the quality of wines produced in a specific year. These ratings are typically based on factors such as the weather conditions during the growing season, the quality of the grapes harvested, and the overall character and potential longevity of the wines produced.

The grapevine growth cycles can be affected by various weather conditions and climate. The grapevine growth cycle consists of several key stages: budburst, flowering, veraison, and harvest, all of which can be affected by vintage variation. Here's how vintage variation impacts the grapevine growth cycle:

1. Budburst (Spring) Effect of Warm Weather: Warmer-than-average temperatures in early spring can lead to an early budburst. This can result in a longer growing season, but early budburst can also increase the risk of frost damage if late cold snaps occur.

Effect of Cool Weather: Cooler springs delay budburst, potentially shortening the growing season and reducing ripening time for grapes. This delay can be beneficial in regions prone to frost, as it reduces the risk of frost damage.

2. Flowering and Fruit Set (Late Spring/Early Summer) Effect of Warm, Stable Weather: Favorable temperatures and stable weather conditions during flowering encourage even fruit set and grape development. Vintage years with warm, sunny springs generally see good yields and uniform grape clusters.

Effect of Rain and Cool Weather: Cold, rainy weather during flowering can lead to poor fruit set, reducing yields. Excessive rain can cause coulure (poor fruit set) or millerandage (uneven berry sizes), affecting grape quality.

3. Veraison (Mid to Late Summer) Effect of Warm, Dry Conditions: In hot and dry vintages, veraison (the onset of ripening when grapes change color) can be accelerated. Grapes will ripen faster, and sugar levels can increase more quickly, often leading to higher alcohol levels in the wine.

Effect of Wet, Cool Conditions: In cooler or wetter vintages, veraison may be delayed. This can result in lower sugar levels and higher acidity in the grapes. Excess moisture can also increase the risk of fungal diseases, such as mildew or rot, which can affect both grape yield and quality.

4. Ripening and Harvest (Late Summer to Early Fall) Effect of Warm, Dry Weather: In hot, dry vintages, grapes ripen earlier, often producing bolder, richer wines with higher sugar levels and lower acidity. However, excessive heat or drought can stress vines, potentially affecting grape quality and balance.

Effect of Cool, Wet Weather: Cooler or wetter conditions can slow ripening, leading to more gradual development of sugars and phenolic compounds (important for flavor and tannins). This may result in wines with more complexity and balance, but if the weather turns too cold or wet near harvest, grapes may not fully ripen, or rot and disease could set in.

5. Impact of Extreme Weather Events Frosts (Spring or Fall): Late spring frosts after budburst or early fall frosts before harvest can damage vines and reduce yields.

Hailstorms: Hail can severely damage grape clusters at any stage of the cycle, particularly during flowering or ripening.

Heatwaves: Prolonged heatwaves during the ripening stage can cause heat stress and uneven ripening, leading to lower quality grapes.

6. Long-Term Effects- vintage variation over multiple years can affect the overall health of the vineyard, as stressful conditions (drought, excessive rain, or temperature extremes) may weaken vines, making them more susceptible to disease or reducing their productive lifespan.

The Natural Wine Movement In Italy

Clay Amphora at Foradori - April, 2023

While natural wine may seem like a relatively new phenomenon, it’s actually the way all wine was made since 6000 BC. Vineyards were free of industrial chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, etc.), fermentation occurred because of indigenous yeasts on the grapes and in the cellar, and vinification occurred without additives or industrial processes like micro-oxygenation to soften tannins or reverse osmosis to decrease the level of alcohol.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, the industrial revolution led to major changes in the way wine was made. With the advent of steam-powered machinery and new technologies, wine production became more efficient and mass-produced. This marked the beginning of the modern wine industry, which often relied on chemical fertilizers and pesticides in grape cultivation, as well as additives and preservatives in wine production. At that time people saw the soil merely as a growth medium for the vine. Chemicals seemed like a wonderfully scientific option that would save winegrowers a lot of work in the vineyard and provide better results.

The use of chemicals and additives in wine production became widespread, and many winemakers began to prioritize quantity over quality. This led to the production of homogenous wines that were often bland and lacking in character, and the art of winemaking was in danger of being lost.

In France, it was Jules Chauvet, a winemaker and chemist in Beaujolais in the 1970, who felt that the true character of the grapes and the terroir of the place was lost due to the influence of synthetic chemicals and additives. He championed techniques that minimized or eliminated the use of such additives, including natural fermentation with indigenous yeasts, minimal use of sulfur dioxide, and avoiding other common winemaking interventions.

While Chauvet's influence was more directly felt in France, his ideas eventually spread to Italy, inspiring a number of pioneering winemakers who embraced the principles of minimal intervention and natural viticulture. In Italy, it was Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon in Friuli-Venizia in the 1990s who were among the first to establish and spread the movement within the country. They began experimenting with minimal intervention techniques, such as extended maceration for white wines (leading to the rise of "orange wines"), fermentation in amphorae, and strict avoidance of chemical additives. They wanted to produce wines that were true to their origins, free from the influence of modern additives and interventions, and in doing so, they helped shape the identity of natural wine in Italy.

As the wines of Gravner and Radikon began to gain recognition, other winemakers in Italy took notice, particularly those who were dissatisfied with industrial winemaking practices. Winemakers from regions like Piedmont, Tuscany, and Sicily visited Friuli-Venezia Giulia to learn from these pioneers. The philosophies and techniques they encountered inspired them to adopt similar practices in their own regions, leading to a ripple effect across Italy.

At the same time, consumer interest in organic and sustainable products grew, increasing the demand for natural wine. This cultural shift toward sustainability and authenticity resonated with both producers and consumers, encouraging more winemakers across Italy to embrace natural wine practices.

Now you can find natural, minimal intervention wines in every region of Italy. Look for wines from portfolios such as Selection Naturel, Louis/Dressner, Rosenthal, Zev Rovine to name a few in the Louisiana market.

Chenin Blanc is Having a Moment...

53 Year Old Chenin Blanc vineyard at L’Avenir, Stellenbosch

“Chenin Blanc may well be the most underrated white wine grape in the world. It makes wines high in acidity that generally take a while to unfurl and show their mettle. But with time in bottle the wines can hold their own with the finest white wines in the world and, crucially, continue to improve for decades – a real sign of quality.” Jancis Robinson

I have always loved Chenin Blanc, it is so good, so versatile, and so, so overlooked.…when grown under the right conditions, to me, it’s the perfect white wine. Its aromatic complexity, naturally high acidity, and its wide range of styles make it incredibly versatile and interesting. Chenin Blanc is grown in many parts of the world but its two favorite homes are in the Loire Valley and South Africa.

In the cool climate of the Loire, Chenin always seems to take a back seat to the other famous white wine of the region, Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin is the perfect counterbalance to the steely, citrusy acidity of Sancerre, Menetou Salon or Touraine Sauvignon Blanc – more prominent fruit but mineral-driven with bright acidity, its qualities allow for it to be produced in several styles from sparkling to still, dessert wine and even fortified. You may know its more austere version as Savennières, or Vouvray Sec with its focus on balance and vibrant acidity. Then there are Crémant de Loire - crisp, fresh, and with zippy green apple and citrus notes as well as delicious versions in Anjou and Saumur.

Chenin Blanc vines planted in South Africa have their origins in the 17th century, brought by Dutch and later influenced by French Huguenot settlers. Over the centuries, Chenin Blanc has become a cornerstone of the South African wine industry, evolving from a bulk wine grape to a celebrated varietal known for its quality and versatility. It is the most widely planted grape variety in South Africa and for centuries was known as steen.

South Africa's Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters, is ideal for growing Chenin Blanc. The coastal regions benefit from cooling breezes, which help retain the grape's acidity. Often more fruit-forward, with pronounced tropical fruit flavors such as pineapple, guava, and melon, alongside apple, pear, and citrus with high acidity but balanced by the richness of the fruit. Again, it’s versatility allows in to be produced in a number of styles from sparkling to still and sweet.

Here’s some terroir info on both of these amazing regions -

Loire Valley – the Middle or Central Loire is the “zone” for Chenin Blanc in the region.  This region encompasses several notable appellations, including Vouvray, Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur, and Anjou.

1.    Climate

o    both maritime and continental with significant diurnal temperature variation, which helps to retain acidity

2.    Variety of Soils

o    Tuffeau Limestone: This soft, porous limestone is a hallmark of the region, particularly in areas like Vouvray and Saumur. It retains moisture and provides excellent drainage, contributing to the minerality and structure of the wines.

o    Gravel and Sand: These well-draining soils are common in areas like Chinon and Bourgueil

o    Schist and Slate: Particularly prevalent in Anjou, these soils impart a distinct minerality and are excellent for both red and white wines.

3.    Topography

o    The Loire River and its tributaries create a landscape of gentle slopes and riverbanks. These valleys provide excellent sun exposure and air circulation and allows for diverse vineyard sites with different exposures and microclimates.

Western Cape

1.    Climate

o    Mediterranean Climate: Paarl and Swartland experiences a typical Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. These areas are further inland and do not enjoy the cool breezes from the coast. 

o    Temperature Variation: The region benefits from significant diurnal temperature variation, which helps in developing grape flavors and maintaining acidity.

2.    Soils

o    Granite-Based Soils: The soils in Paarl are primarily derived from decomposed granite. These soils are well-draining and provide a good balance of nutrients, which is ideal for viticulture.

o    Diverse Soil Types: Swartland is known for its diverse range of soil types, including granite, shale, slate, and iron-rich soils. This diversity allows for the cultivation of a variety of grape varieties and contributes to the complexity of the wines.

3.    Topography

o    Paarl is characterized by its mountainous terrain, particularly the Paarl Rock, a large granite outcrop. The varied elevations and slopes provide different microclimates and exposures, allowing for the cultivation of a range of grape varieties.

o     Swartland features a mix of rolling hills, valleys, and plains. The varied elevations create different microclimates, which are suitable for growing a range of grape varieties.  Swartland is home to many old, dry-farmed bush vines, some of which are over 50 years old. These old vines produce low yields of highly concentrated and complex fruit.

Travel Blog - Bella Cortona

I’m so happy to be back in Cortona, it’s my 8th visit here - which is more than I’ve been to any place in my international travels. For those of you who haven’t been, it is the quintessential Tuscan hill town - winding up the hill to the fortress at the top, extremely steep and narrow streets are lined with homes, churches and buildings that date back as early as the 13th century. The entire town is one of the few to still be completely surrounded by walls that were begun by the Etruscans added onto through the centuries through medieval times. All commerce happens in the lower part of the town - shops, bars restaurants face the streets with the 2 main piazzi being the focal point of social activity. I could go on and on about this place - it tends to be very popular with Americans, not only because of Francis Mayes and under the Tuscan Sun but because the University of Georgia has invested heavily in the town and has had a campus here for over 50 years. As is happening in many of these small towns the population is dwindling as younger generations leave seeking more modern lifestyles - from 7000 residents to now only around 600. Despite all of that, it has magically retained its old-world charm.

I have an aperitivo on the piazza with my friend Antonio after we got our rental car situation sorted out. Antonio is from here, and his family has a large house that is just off the piazza. He can point to the window of the room he was born in and his 100+ year old uncle still lives in. His father and uncles, the Molesini brothers, came here from the Veneto in the 1930s and the town is synonymous with the name. They own the main grocery and wine shop on the Piazza Republica. While he now lives in the US, everyone knows Antonio and our conversation is constantly halted by old friends and townspeople with warm greetings and hugs. Afterwards, he has a family obligation for dinner so I am on my own.

I’m tired - it took a lot to not just go back to the hotel and sleep, which I have not done since Thursday night. But I always like to stay up on my first day so here I am. As I try to decide where to go, it’s hard not to be drawn in by the lively ristorante with tables on the piazza or Via Nazionale. While they may be the best people watching spots they also tend to be a little more generic Tuscan in terms of the food scene. The one exception to that is the new spot for aperitivo and tapas, Sotto Voce, but a table at 8pm on a Saturday is hard to come by. So instead I went for an off the beaten path little hidden gem that got amazing reviews. Sartù is located down a steep narrow stone street just off of Via Nazionale (the only flat street in the entire town!) It’s a tiny space with 2 tables on the steeply angled street and 5 inside (think 1000 figs but with a kitchen 1/4 of the size!) I came in at 8:15 to an empty restaurant with every table but one having a reserved sign on it. Luckily they gave me that table. Knowing I wanted to keep things light, I ordered a local a Tuscan white blend of Grechetto and Chardonnay - simplistic but worked well with what I ordered. Let’s get to the exquisite appetizer - it always surprises people when I tell them that in general, green food in Tuscany consists of zucchini (grilled or fried), cooked spinach, basil and leeks 😆 so I chose the greenest thing on the menu which was a leek flan floating in a heavenly cloud of parmigiana cream with a garnish of fried leeks. My other “light” dish was a homemade pasta with sweet grape tomatoes from the Amalfi coast and topped with grated tangy ricotta salata. Also lovely but it was hard to follow anything with that flan! The chef came out from the kitchen to chat - she is from Napoli so that dish is close to her heart.

I’m still tired and now my belly is full but you just can’t not have gelato on your first night in Italy. So I’m back on my lively little piazza writing this and I have to say - I am one of the few people interacting with a phone instead of a person. Kids are playing, old men are gossiping on the benches behind me, dogs excitedly greet each other while their people gather in small groups socializing on a Saturday night. I have not been here since 2017 and before I arrived, I was concerned - concerned that technology, the pandemic and just time itself would change this place. But oh so thankfully, it has not.

Meet Mixologist David Springer

We are about to launch a series of mixology classes and wanted you to meet our partner in this exciting venture, David Springer. Look for sign up info for our Mixology 101 class in next week’s email!

“It all started at the tender age of 12, when I started mixing drinks for my dad's wrap parties. The drinks were terrible. Nobody cared. It was the '70's.

Fast forward to the Naughties, when I realised that a cocktail could be so much more than booze in a cup. I learned from the masters and honed my skills as a mixologist in San Francisco. I wanted to share this knowledge with everyone, so in 2012 I started a business giving mixology labs for private parties and corporate events. I also ran a regular mixology workshop at The Sea Star in Beautiful Downtown Dogpatch. My business partner and I were billed as "two of San Francisco's finest mixologists".

Since then, I have taught mixology lessons and mixed cocktails in places as far away and exotic as Pattambi, India; Kailua-Kona, Hawai'i; and Denver, Colorado. (In Pattambi I also taught a wedding party the Electric Slide, but that's another story.)

I want everyone to know how to mix a great cocktail. Even if you never make your own cocktails, you can use the skills you learn to order drinks like a pro, and truly appreciate a well-made and properly balanced mixed drink. Life is too short for bad cocktails.”

Crawfish Friendly Staff Picks

Most of you who shop with us know we just love giving suggestions on food and wine pairings. So when I told the staff I’d like to do a series on their picks for specific foods and activities, these were their selections for our beloved seafood tradition, boiled crawfish.

Seafood season here in Louisiana kicks into high gear right after Mardi Gras. Partially because of Lent and maybe a little to do with warmer temps and crawfish availability, this time of year is heaven for seafood lovers. How lucky are we to have sources for everything from blue crab to shrimp, crawfish, and oysters, not to mention the abundant selection of fish from drum, to red snapper, redfish, sheepshead, mahi mahi and more?

Boiling crawfish is a popular activity and we are in peak season right now. While beer is the go-to beverage at a boil, for those of us who love wine, there are some great choices. Overall, when pairing wine with boiled crawfish, it's important to look for wines with refreshing acidity and fruitiness that can complement the flavors and provide a refreshing contrast to the spice.

Jessie…chose one of our most loved (and served!) drinks from the bar, the Italian Spritz. We gave up Aperol a few years ago when we tasted the Contratto Aperitivo. No chemicals or added coloring, it is a natural product that is less sweet than Aperol and has now been a staple at the bar and on the shelves. It produces a classic spritz - its sweet tangerine notes and slight bitterness, make it just the thing to sip on while eating salty, spicy foods, in fact, it was made for it!

Kimi…went for a less than obvious choice this time - the Scarpa Pelaverga Verduno, another delicious, rare variety from the rolling hills of the Langhe in Piemonte. The Pelaverga grape is planted in minuscule quantities so the fact that we get any is a miracle. Light-bodied reds with a chill can be perfect with shellfish as the bright acidity and fruity flavors complement the flavors of the crawfish and provide a refreshing contrast to the spice. The Scarpa has high acidity, light tannins with a savory palate of red fruit, dried orange peel, and white pepper flavors - and it loves to be chilled

Erin…rosé wines are usually a no-brainer, in fact, we used to hold a crawfish and rosé event every year to highlight the diversity of pink wines that complement crawfish. Light, clean and refreshing the 2022 Stoller Rosé of Pinot Noir from Oregon is the best vintage we’ve had of this wine. Citrus zest and orange peel with juicy fruit and bracing acidity, it has an electric vibrancy that practically buzzes in your mouth, and the fruit provides a refreshing contrast to the spice.

Bridget… A sparkling rosé can be a great pairing with crawfish, as the wine's fruity and floral notes can complement the sweetness of the meat and the effervescence helps to cleanse the palate between bites. The Il Mostro Longana Rosato Frizzante is an organic Pétillant Naturel made from Montepulciano. It’s both dense and juicy, with light red fruit flavors and floral notes with firm acidity making it a fun and exciting glass of sparkling rosé from a not-so-obvious grape variety.

Beth…while some might think an older vintage Riesling would be wasted on a crawsfish boil, I say, life’s too short, drink what you want when you want it! The 2016 Clemens Busch Riesling Marienburg Grosses Gewachs is from a super steep vineyard that spans an entire hillside facing the Mosel river and is made with grapes from 40 - 50 year old vines. It’s classically bone dry but the age has softened the edges a bit and the ever so slight sweetness can help balance out the spice, while the acidity provides a refreshing contrast to the richness. It’s great with anything or nothing…

So there you have it! If you are interested in any of these, just ask on your next visit. Next up will be our favorite picnic wines!

Our Seafood Friendly Wine Picks

Most of you who shop with us know they we just love giving suggestions on food and wine pairings. So when I told the staff I’d like to do a series on their picks for specific foods and activities, I received some pretty quick answer for what they like to drink with seafood.

Seafood season here in Louisiana kicks into high gear right after Mardi Gras. Partially because of Lent and maybe a little to do with warmer temps and crawfish availability, this time of year is heaven for seafood lovers. How lucky are we to have sources for everything from blue crab to shrimp, crawfish, and oysters, not to mention the abundant selection of fish from drum, to red snapper, redfish, sheepshead, mahi mahi and more?

If we are talking about general pairing “rules”, things are pretty simple… light flaky fish tends to like crisp, clean whites. Medium bodies fishes can pair well with fuller bodied whites while heavier more oily fish can even pair with reds. Sauces can throw a wrench into that theory so I’ve added some extra info on what will work with our picks. So, here are some of our favorites with a couple of pairing ideas for each…

Jessie…answered quickly with the La Raia Gavi with its flavors of lemon, green apple, grapefruit abd toasted almond, the Cortese grape from Piedmont is a super versatile wine to pair with foods inspired by Northern Italian coastal cuisine. Think pesto pastas and seafood dishes with basil and lemon - It also works well with lots of different preparations - Sushi, Seafood Risotto, Grilled Fish in a lemon sauce, Salade Niçoise, Spaghetti and Clams, Shellfish and more. Again, the versatility makes it an easy, go-to pairing.

Kimi…chimed in next with Argyros Assyrtiko from Santorini. As you can imagine, Assyrtiko pairs with almost anything coming out of the sea. Complex flavors with searing acidity and ridiculous minerality make this wine a natural pairing with sardines, grilled fish, fried calamari - grilled octopus with a drizzle of olive oil and squeeze of lemon are absolutely superb with Assyrtiko. Oysters and lobster are a no brainer, as well fried seafood and shellfish, garlic shrimp, and any kind of seafood salads with crab or shrimp.

Erin…very decisively chose the Guy Robin Chablis from Burgundy. Its clean palate of crushed shells, lemon zest, and white pepper is great with all kinds of raw shellfish, especially oysters; simply cooked shellfish dishes like spaghetti alla vongole or moules marinières, classic fish and chips, and snails with garlic butter are heaven on earth!

Bridget…went right for Bedouet Muscadet when I asked her on Saturday. Lean, green, with a briny, citrusy quality, Loire Valley Muscadet is loved as an excellent food pairing wine. But, Muscadet’s true calling is matched with seafood, particularly if you’re a fan of bivalves. In Nantes, a favorite regional dish, called Moules Frites, is made by flash cooking mussels in a splash of Muscadet wine and tossing them with shallots and green herbs and French fries. Oysters, snails, scallops, and even North Atlantic Salmon can work if the wine is aged sur lie.

Beth…for me seafood is another great excuse to pop a bottle of Champagne! Leaner Blanc de Blancs tend to work best and the Champagne Guiborat Prisme 15 Grand Cru is a natural choice. From the Cote de Blanc, the Guiborat’s citrus-mineral accents, bright acidity, and creamy texture make it absolutely perfect with lobster, fresh oysters and other shellfish, crab cakes, ceviche, crab quiche and fried calamari.

So there you have it! If you are interested in any of these, just ask on your next visit. Stay tuned, next week we’ll be featuring our favorite wines for Crawfish!

Not Nouveau, A Guide to the 10 Crus of Beaujolais

As a wine professional, I have to say that the pre-covid days of Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the US were lost on me. But you have to hand it to George Duboeuf, the marketing genius who took a local celebration of the harvest and turned in in to an international event to sell more wine. You know the Duboeuf bottles, the ones with the flowers on the labels that you'll see stacked in grocery stores from November to January? Made with Gamay juice that's has literally been bottled only six to eight weeks after the grapes were picked, the result is basically under developed alcoholic grape juice that will get worse as it sits in the bottle. And unfortunately many Americans still believe that this represents Beaujolais as a region as a whole.

Cru Beaujolais is the good stuff, the age worthy stuff that can go head to head with the great wines of Burgundy at half the cost. Each with their own AOC, cru Beaujolais comes from 10 named villages within Beaujolais and represent the region's very best vineyards. Wines from Morgon, Brouilly, Julienas and more have their own very distinct personalities and offer high quality, structured, age worthy alternatives to Beaujolais Nouveau and are becoming increasingly popular with Pinot Noir drinkers looking for something more friendly and affordable.

Moving from north to south on the map, the crus begin just below the Bourgogne’s Mâconnais region. The following descriptions of each cru is from the Inter Beaujolais website who has some amazing terroir maps and information.

Want to find out which Cru best suits your palate? Friday Dave Sobiesk will pour a "Not Nouveau" tasting of some of our Cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Village to introduce you to our favorite AOC's and producers -we tasted 20+ wines to come up with this ultra tasty lineup! Go here for tickets and read on for more info on the 10 Crus.

Saint Amour: The Saint-Amour AOC is located in the commune by the same name, in Saône-et-Loire. Its mixed soil includes granite, schist and clay, producing wines with two different characters. One is light and easy-to-drink, with aromas of iris or violet and even raspberry. The other is powerful and complex, offering aromas of kirsch and spice. Soils: PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (48%), GRANITE (22%), BLUE STONE (9,9%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY; Elevation: 280 meters

Juliénas: Stretching across four communes, mainly in the Rhône with a small part in the Saône-et-Loire, the Juliénas cru benefits from excellent sunshine exposure. The average altitude varies, starting at 230 metres and reaching 430 metres in the far northwest. The AOC definitely has one of the most diverse soils in the Beaujolais: schist, diorite and sandstone as well as clay. Soils:BLUE STONE (42%), GRANITE (3%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (29%), SCHIST (14%); Elevation: 330 meters.

Chenas: Chénas is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It is named after the ancient oak forests formerly covering the commune, cleared by the Gallo-Romans then by the local monks by order of Philip V of France, known as ‘The Tall’. The vines stretch across rolling hills and valleys. These gamay grapes express notes of small black fruit, peony and spices highlighted by mellow tannins. Soils: GRANITE (47%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (49%); Elevation: 260 meters.

Moulin-A-Vent: The windmill (moulin) – standing at 278 meters, surrounded by vineyards – is classified as a historical monument. It embodies the prestige and pride of the small appellation, straddles two communes, and benefits from a homogeneous terroir. After a few years, Moulin-à-Vent wines develop aromas of iris, wilted roses, spice and ripe fruit with notes of undergrowth and truffles, providing tannic, structured wines. When younger, they are floral and fruity, with violet and cherry aromas. Soils: GRANITE, LIMESTONE, MARL, SANDSTONE; Elevation: 260 meters

Fleurie: The Fleurie appellation has the geographical particularity of sloping down from a range of peaks including the Fût d’Avenas, Col de Durbize, Col des Labourons and Pic Raymont. The hill, called La Madone, towers over the appellation, offering a breath-taking panorama of all the vineyards. Fleurie wines are, without a doubt, the most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Soils: PINK GRANITE (90%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (8%) Elevation: 340 meters

Chiroubles: The Chiroubles cru is located north of the Rhône, in the heart of the village by the same name. The AOC is nestled on hillsides arranged in granite cirques whose series of amphitheatre-like valleys provide the vines with optimal exposure. These are the highest vines in Beaujolais (often on slopes with inclines over 30%), a guarantee of cool temperatures in the face of the current climate change. The Chiroubles growers are often considered “heroic”, given how physically demanding and meticulous the work is on the rugged hillsides. Soils: 100% PINK GRANITE; Elevation: 410 meters

Morgon: The Morgon cru, overlooked by Mont du Py, is the largest of the Beaujolais crus. The famous Côte du Py is made up of decomposed shale. The appellation’s wines offer aromas of stone fruit like sour cherries, with notes of violet and kirsch. Their delicate tannins promise optimal aging. Soil: GRANITE (52%), BLUE STONE (37%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (11%) Elevation: 310 meters

Régnié: The village of Régnié-Durette is especially noteworthy for its church with two spires (built in 1867 based on the design by Pierre Bossan, the architect who later built the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière). The vines are planted on slopes at an average of 350 meters in altitude, facing southeast. This appellation’s wines are light, easy-to-drink and rich in mineral elements, very aromatic, maturing quickly. Soils: GRANITE (64%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (34%); Elevation: 350 meters

Brouilly: Brouilly, the southernmost and most extensive of the Beaujolais crus, stretches out at the foot of Mont Brouilly and its chapel (Notre-Dame aux Raisins). The fruit-driven (plum, small red fruit) wines, sometimes with mineral notes, express the gamay bouquet perfectly. Brouilly wines can be enjoyed in their youth. Soils: PINK GRANITE (46%), BLUE STONE (4%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY, SHALE; Elevation: 290 meters

Côte de Brouilly: At the summit of Mont Brouilly – the veritable emblem of the appellation – the Côte de Brouilly vines cover a small area across four communes: Saint-Lager, Odenas, Quincié-en-Beaujolais and Cercié. The wines are generous with delicate tannins and aromas evocative of pepper, small macerated black fruit and mineral notes. Soils: BLUE STONE (40%), GRANITE (24%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (12%); Elevation: 300 meters

Wine of the Moment, 2020 Claudio Morelli La Vigna delle Terrazze Bianchello Del Metauro

Native varieties, indigenous varieties - you hear the words a lot but what makes them special?  They are not necessarily better than international grapes but for me they are just simply more interesting.  Native grapes are those that are born in a specific place and have remained almost exclusively in that place.  They tend to travel poorly and generally have a difficult time when grown in a different terroir.  And when they are grown other places, they almost never become the quality wines they represent in their native country.  

The sheer number of native varieties is one of the many reasons I love Italian wine.  Italy offers a never ending treasure trove of little known regions producing wine from grapes you've never heard of in places you've never been.  Wine writer and critic Ian D'Agata has dedicated a 620 page book to them, The Native Grapes of Italy, with historical and anecdotal information on more than 500 grapes.  It fascinates me that something as simple as a grape can tell they story of a place - its history, its culture, its food and its people.

Writing about native varieties brings me to my current wine of the moment, the 2020 Claudio Morelli La Vigna delle Terrazze Bianchello Del Metauro, a wine I tasted at VinItaly in 2019 that has finally arrived. It comes from Le Marche (Mar-kay) region, nestled between the eastern slopes of the Apennines, the spiny mountain range of central Italy, and the central coast of the Adriatic Sea. It shares borders with the wine powerhouse regions of Tuscany, Umbria, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo, and Lazio. Its prime location between the sea and the mountains, gives it the best of both worlds- the southern part of the region a Mediterranean/maritime climate (land influenced by the sea) the while northern half is characterized by a much more continental climate (land influenced by the land itself and far from an ocean). Like many Italian regions there are a plethora of DOC’s (15) and DOCG (5), but only a few make the cut on the American market. 

Claudia Morelli's family has been producing wine and olive oil near the town of Fano, in the norther part of the region, for generations.  Bianchello (also called Biancame) which is thought to be a branch of Italy’s vast Trebbiano family, is Morelli’s main preoccupation, although he grows Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and several other red grapes as well.  His vineyards sit at the mouth of the Metauro river on a mix of hard volcanic tuff and sand, and the proximity of the vineyards to the Adriatic provides ample ventilation, giving the grapes some extra hang time on the vines.  Morelli’s “La Vigna delle Terrazze” (“the terraced vineyards”) comes from his oldest Bianchello plots just outside Fano, which were planted in the 1970s.  When discussing the wines to try from the region, Ian D'Agata mentions 3 producers, Morelli being one of them.

Never a fruit bomb, Bianchello tends to have high acidity and somewhat light aromatics. To coax more intensity and complexity our of the grapes, Morelli uses cold maceration is to extract aromatic compounds and other phenolics from the skins while preventing oxidation, and by aging the wine only in steel, he wants to highlight varietal and regional character above all else.

A drink now medium bodied wine with high acidity and a salty dab of minerality, Morelli's Bianchello is big on aromatics of apple, melon, citrus and fresh herbs and is screaming for seafood! Grilled fish, fish piccata, crudo or flaky white fish or shellfish would make this wine shine, just don’t be surprised if a bottle of Bianchello disappears during prep time. At $20.50, you should stock up accordingly!

Drink Cru Beaujolais

As a wine professional, I have to say that the pre-covid days of Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the US were lost on me. But you have to hand it to George Duboeuf, the marketing genius who took a local celebration of the harvest and turned in in to an international event to sell more wine. You know the Duboeuf bottles, the ones with the flowers on the labels that you'll see stacked in grocery stores from November to January? Made with Gamay juice that's has literally been bottled only six to eight weeks after the grapes were picked, the result is basically under developed alcoholic grape juice that will get worse as it sits in the bottle. And unfortunately many Americans still believe that this represents Beaujolais as a region as a whole.

Cru Beaujolais is the good stuff, the age worthy stuff that can go head to head with the great wines of Burgundy at half the cost. Each with their own AOC, cru Beaujolais comes from 10 named villages within Beaujolais and represent the region's very best vineyards. Wines from Morgon, Brouilly, Julienas and more have their own very distinct personalities and offer high quality, structured, age worthy alternatives to Beaujolais Nouveau and are becoming increasingly popular with Pinot Noir drinkers looking for something more friendly and affordable.

Moving from north to south on the map, the crus begin just below the Bourgogne’s Mâconnais region. The following descriptions of each cru is from the Inter Beaujolais website who has some amazing terroir maps and information.

Want to find out which Cru best suits your palate? Next Wednesday Dave Sobiesk will pour a "Not Nouveau" tasting of some of our Cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Village to introduce you to our favorite AOC's and producers -we tasted 20+ wines to come up with this ultra tasty lineup! Go here for tickets and read on for more info on the 10 Crus. Wines with a “*” will be featured in the tasting.

Saint Amour: The Saint-Amour AOC is located in the commune by the same name, in Saône-et-Loire. Its mixed soil includes granite, schist and clay, producing wines with two different characters. One is light and easy-to-drink, with aromas of iris or violet and even raspberry. The other is powerful and complex, offering aromas of kirsch and spice. Soils: PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (48%), GRANITE (22%), BLUE STONE (9,9%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY; Elevation: 280 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Billards, Saint-Amour (2019) THE estate to try is hands down Domaine des Billards and we are lucky enough to have them available to us. A beautiful example of the lighter elegant style from the region. 91 JS

Juliénas: Stretching across four communes, mainly in the Rhône with a small part in the Saône-et-Loire, the Juliénas cru benefits from excellent sunshine exposure. The average altitude varies, starting at 230 metres and reaching 430 metres in the far northwest. The AOC definitely has one of the most diverse soils in the Beaujolais: schist, diorite and sandstone as well as clay. Soils:BLUE STONE (42%), GRANITE (3%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (29%), SCHIST (14%); Elevation: 330 meters.

Our selection, *Domaine Smith-Chapel Juliénas Vayolette (2020) Relatively new to the world of Beaujolais, David Chapel and Michele Smith produced their 1st vintage in 2016. Their Julienas is 40-65 year old organically farmed vines with semi carbonic, native fermentation, aged 11 months and bottled unfiltered. We are very excited about this stunning new addition to the field! NYR

Chenas: Chénas is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It is named after the ancient oak forests formerly covering the commune, cleared by the Gallo-Romans then by the local monks by order of Philip V of France, known as ‘The Tall’. The vines stretch across rolling hills and valleys. These gamay grapes express notes of small black fruit, peony and spices highlighted by mellow tannins. Soils: GRANITE (47%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (49%); Elevation: 260 meters.

Our selection, Domaine des Fines Graves Chenas (2018) -Domaine des Fines Graves is the fiefdom of Jacky Janodet, his lovely wife and their son. The Janodets produce several wines from numerous plots, and the overall style of the house is fuller bodied, structured and very age worthy. This made from 40 year old vines and only 9000 bottles made. NYR

Moulin-A-Vent: The windmill (moulin) – standing at 278 meters, surrounded by vineyards – is classified as a historical monument. It embodies the prestige and pride of the small appellation, straddles two communes, and benefits from a homogeneous terroir. After a few years, Moulin-à-Vent wines develop aromas of iris, wilted roses, spice and ripe fruit with notes of undergrowth and truffles, providing tannic, structured wines. When younger, they are floral and fruity, with violet and cherry aromas. Soils: GRANITE, LIMESTONE, MARL, SANDSTONE; Elevation: 260 meters

Our selection: *Domaine Diochon Moulin-A-Vent Vieilles Vignes (2020) - Domaine Diochon is an outlie in the world of Beujolais, producing one bottling year in and year out, old-vine Moulin-à-Vent. Their one and only wine is produced from 50-85 year old vines with very little sulfur and is bottled unfined and unfiltered with the telltale MAV tannic structure. 94 WA

Fleurie: The Fleurie appellation has the geographical particularity of sloping down from a range of peaks including the Fût d’Avenas, Col de Durbize, Col des Labourons and Pic Raymont. The hill, called La Madone, towers over the appellation, offering a breath-taking panorama of all the vineyards. Fleurie wines are, without a doubt, the most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Soils: PINK GRANITE (90%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (8%) Elevation: 340 meters

Our selections: *Domaine Chignard Les Moriers Fleurie (2019) One of the most iconic producers of the region. The Fleurie vines are anywhere from 35 years of age to over a century, with the Moriers vineyard being one of the most renowned in Fleurie, faces Moulin-à-Vent and is based on pink granite soil, making the wines structured but very elegant. 93 WA, 93 V

Chiroubles: The Chiroubles cru is located north of the Rhône, in the heart of the village by the same name. The AOC is nestled on hillsides arranged in granite cirques whose series of amphitheatre-like valleys provide the vines with optimal exposure. These are the highest vines in Beaujolais (often on slopes with inclines over 30%), a guarantee of cool temperatures in the face of the current climate change. The Chiroubles growers are often considered “heroic”, given how physically demanding and meticulous the work is on the rugged hillsides. Soils: 100% PINK GRANITE; Elevation: 410 meters

Our selection: Damien Coquelet 2019 Chiroubles (2019) Damien Coquelet’s stepfather, Georges Descombes, is a legendary pioneer of the modernist, natural winemaking school of Beaujolais. Coquelet set up shop by himself, under his own name, in 2007, at the age of 20. This is old school, traditional Beaujolais - organic viticulture, hand harvesting, native yeasts, zero intervention in the cellar and little if any sulfur at bottling. 92 V

Morgon: The Morgon cru, overlooked by Mont du Py, is the largest of the Beaujolais crus. The famous Côte du Py is made up of decomposed shale. The appellation’s wines offer aromas of stone fruit like sour cherries, with notes of violet and kirsch. Their delicate tannins promise optimal ageing. Soil: GRANITE (52%), BLUE STONE (37%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (11%) Elevation: 310 meters

Our selection: *Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Cote du Py (2019) Mee Godard started her own domaine in Morgon in February 2013, and she's rapidly become one of the region's star producers. She has 5 hectares of vines in Morgon spread over three sites: Côte du Py, Grand Cras and Corcellete. Certified Organic and practices biodynamically - she loves to use a variety of aging vessels from concrete to neutral barrels to give her wines a plush, velvety mouth feel. 94 V, 94 WA

Régnié The village of Régnié-Durette is especially noteworthy for its church with two spires (built in 1867 based on the design by Pierre Bossan, the architect who later built the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière). The vines are planted on slopes at an average of 350 metres in altitude, facing southeast. This appellation’s wines are light, easy-to-drink and rich in mineral elements, very aromatic, maturing quickly. Soils: GRANITE (64%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (34%); Elevation: 350 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Braves Régnié (2020) The elevation, soil and south facing slope makes for Beaujolais with penetrating, lip- and tongue-staining color and gorgeous concentration. NYR

Brouilly: Brouilly, the southernmost and most extensive of the Beaujolais crus, stretches out at the foot of Mont Brouilly and its chapel (Notre-Dame aux Raisins). The fruit-driven (plum, small red fruit) wines, sometimes with mineral notes, express the gamay bouquet perfectly. Brouilly wines can be enjoyed in their youth. Soils: PINK GRANITE (46%), BLUE STONE (4%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY, SHALE; Elevation: 290 meters

Our selections: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Vielles Vignes (2018) Jean-Claude Lapalu is one of the most respected and revered growers in Beaujolais and a leader in the Natural Wine movement in France. 94 WA, 94 V

*2019 Château Thivin Reverdon Brouilly (2019) This historic estate continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais and text book Brouilly. Reverdon is a lieu-dit on the pink granite lower slopes of the Côte de Brouilly 45 year old vines, organic farming. 93 WA

Côte de Brouilly: At the summit of Mont Brouilly – the veritable emblem of the appellation – the Côte de Brouilly vines cover a small area across four communes: Saint-Lager, Odenas, Quincié-en-Beaujolais and Cercié. The wines are generous with delicate tannins and aromas evocative of pepper, small macerated black fruit and mineral notes. Soils: BLUE STONE (40%), GRANITE (24%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (12%); Elevation: 300 meters

Our selection: Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2019) 1.5L Ever since taking over the family domaine in 1988, Nicole Chanrion works all 6.5 hectares by herself, from pruning the vineyards and driving the tractors to winemaking and bottling, all without bravado or fanfare. 93 JS
2019 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly (2019) 1.5LThis historic estate continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais and text book Cote de Brouilly. 50+ year old vines, organic farming- 93+ WA

Other Tasty Beaujolais Treats:
Terres Dorées Beaujolais L'Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2019

*Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc (2019)

Mary Taylor Beaujolais Village (2019)

Jean Foillard Beaujolais Village (2019)

As usual, our selection is constantly rotating - come check it out!

Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Finesse and Elegance on the Etna

A year or so ago I did a post on one of my favorite Champagne producers, Cedric Bouchard. The wines had been in New Orleans for a while but no one here really knew the producer or the Champagnes. So besides the purchases at Swirl and a few other fine wine shops, they sat in Bizou’s warehouse. Antonio Galloni from Vinous is a huge fan as well so I used his reviews for the write up on why you should buy these wines. About a month after I did the post, I started getting calls literally from all over the country. People could not believe these highly coveted, small production wines were actually available since most markets sell out of them immediately. Needless to say, we made a lot of people happy and cleaned out the warehouse…

So now I’m going to sing the praises of another of my favorite producers, Tenuta Delle Terre Nere from Sicily’s Mount Etna. I’ve talked a lot about Marc de Grazia and his success as an importer – in fact we are featuring wines from De Grazia Imports in our tasting this Friday – and of my early obsession with his wines so I though it was time to bring attention to what his winery is doing on the Etna. If you’re smart you’ll call me about these wines before the rest of the country gets word that these are still available… I’ve focused on a handful of favorites but there are other crus and other vintages available as well in small quantities. Just ask.

“No other winery has done as much for the popularity and success of Mount Etna as Terre Nere; nearly any producer in the region will offer up this same opinion. Almost two decades ago, importer Marc de Grazia set out to prove that the high-altitude vineyards, diverse volcanic soils and ancient vines found on this still-active volcano could produce world-class wines of longevity. As a result of his success, a rush of producers from Sicily and abroad have worked to carve out their own piece of Mount Etna over the last ten years. Through it all, Terre Nere remains at the head of the pack, and Marc de Grazia continues to expand his portfolio by adding choice pieces of terroir, while also pushing the limits of what his original crus are capable of. “

Marc started the Terre Nere winery in 2002 from 30 hectares of vineyards divided in 10 parcels over four crus. The vines are between 50 to 100 years old except for 6 hectares of recently planted vines and several self-rooted plots over 130 years old that are famous for surviving phylloxera. The red wines are Nerello Mascalese, a variety known for producing wines of finesse and elegance and the whites are based on Carricante a grape that makes highly mineral, piercing wines.

500,000 years of volcanic eruptions have created endless soil variation in neighboring plots of land, many of them radical. The soil at Terre Nere is mostly volcanic ash speckled by black pumice and peppered with abundant volcanic rock; to call it ‘rocky’ is putting it mildly! The weather variations in the area are crazy and the vineyard are exposed and therefore open to the cooling and drying effects of the wind. This is particularly important at Terre Nere because the harvest usually takes place in the later part of the fall, meaning that the grapes are in their most fragile state when the weather ‘breaks’ its autumn pattern. The aridness of the climate helps to dry out the grapes after rain and moisture threaten mold. But above all else, the it is the extraordinary elevation that creates dramatic temperature variations between night and day, making the wines of Etna fine and elegant, devoid of the heat and overripe flavors that usually define southern wines.

Marc's vision of the Etna DOC is as a region on par with the Côte de Nuit region of Burgundy with cru areas resulting from differences in soil types, altitude, exposure, and micro-climate. Tenuta delle Terre Nere owns vineyards in six crus – Calderara Sottana, San Lorenzo, Bocca d’Orzo, Santo Spirito, Guardiola, and Feudo di Mezzo. Ever since the first vintage (2002) it vinifies, ages, bottles and labels its crus accordingly. He was the first to believe in the importance of expressing the character of each cru in its purity. All of these properties are located on the northern slopes of the volcano, in the townships of Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo.

Marc’s approach is one of minimal intervention, using certified organic practices, and an almost indiscernible use of oak, allowing the expression of the true character of the wine. And what a beautiful expression it is! Unbelievably fresh with incredible aromatics, finessed tannins and a weightless quality reminiscent of Burgundy and Nebbiolo, the wines truly speak for themselves.

Here are the reviews from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous Media

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo, $69.99, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

As the 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo blows off a bit of youthful reduction, an inviting bouquet forms, mixing violets and roses with hints of white pepper and dusty strawberry. This is seamlessly soft and polished with medium weight, ushering in floral-tinged red and hints of blue fruit which give way to sweet herbal notes. Residual acids keep the expression remarkably fresh even as youthful tannins saturate deeply, leaving bitter notes of cranberry and cherry pits to linger. The 2018 San Lorenzo has the feel of a sleeping giant, requiring a few years of cellaring to truly awaken.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo, $53.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

The 2018 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is dark and rich in the glass, wafting up with notes of cherry sauce, plums and Indian spice. It is deeply textural and velvety in feel, with ripe black instead of red notes, lifted by cooling mineral and minty herbs. There’s an almost balsamic twang to the finish, as this leaves the palate drenched in primary fruit and grippy tannins. The Feudo di Mezzo is a bit of a bruiser in 2018, yet a few years of cellaring should help bring it into focus.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Moganazzi, $53.50, 94 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

A captivating display of black cherry and raspberry encased in a cloud of ashen earth, incense and crushed dried roses lifts up from the remarkably pretty 2018 Etna Rosso Moganazzi. It’s silky in texture, energized by vibrant acidity, as violet-tinged wild berry fruits and sweet spices cascade across the senses. This is so graceful but also packed full of unseen depths, and the palate aches with youthful tension and poise throughout the long, dramatic finale. You can’t help but return to the glass over and over again. The Moganazzi hails from steeply terraced 80-year-old vines on the north side of Etna, at roughly 700 meters in elevation. It’s a showstopper.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito, $53.50, 91 pts

Drinking window: 2021 - 2026

The 2018 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito is incredibly pretty. Crushed stone gives way to wild strawberries, then roses and, finally, nuances of sweet spice. It’s silky in texture, motivated by juicy acidity, with ripe wild berry fruits complemented by sweet inner violet notes. Energy remains high as this tapers off with a twang of licorice and shades of lavender. I wouldn’t expect the 2018 to be one of the longest-lived renditions of Santo Spirito, but it’s certain to provide a lot of pleasure over the medium term.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, $117, 96 pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2034

Take your time with the 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, and you’ll be rewarded. While it’s understated and pretty upon pouring, with hints of floral-laced strawberry and rose hips, further coaxing unlocks a more seductive display, as balsamic-tinged black cherries and grilled citrus give way to fresh mint and white smoke. It’s velvety in texture yet lifted and feminine in feel, showcasing mineral-tinged black fruits and exotic spices. This gains a charming inner sweetness toward the close, as vibrant acids keep the expression fresh in spite of the grippy tannins and tart berries that have completely saturated the senses. Don Peppino boasts amazing depth in 2018, yet while there is already pleasure to be found today, the best is still to come.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana, $67.50, 94+ pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2032

The 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana keeps you at the edge of the glass, taking in its earthy yet gorgeous bouquet. Waves of crushed ashen stone, peppery herbs, blackberries and roses lift up effortlessly. This is silky in texture, with an unbelievably pure and vivid display of red fruits laced with salty minerals, as brisk acids create a sweet-and-sour tug of tension toward the close. The cheeks pucker, saturated with youthful tannin, as the 2018 Calderara Sottana clamps down hard, leaving only a hint of licorice and tart red berries in its wake. Close your eyes, and you might think this was a young, top-shelf Serralunga Barolo.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2017 Etna Rosso Moganazzi, $50, 92+pts

Drinking window: 2020 - 2025

Bright red-ruby. Clean, very mineral and floral, with juicy red/black cherry aromas and flavors. A refined, mineral wine that is very well balanced and precise. This clocks in at 14.5% alcohol, but doesn’t taste warm at all. In fact, I like this wine’s austere, mineral-tinged, long finish. Will likely improve in the bottle.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2017 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana, $117, 93+pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2029

Bright red. Pungent flinty and floral nuances to the red cherry and raspberry jam aromas on the inviting nose. Enters rich, dense and almost sweet, with very precise sweet spice and red fruit flavors lingering nicely. An underlying green note remains in the background and adds complexity. Finishes with noteworthy but balanced tannic bite and plenty of freshness on the long juicy finish. A very complex wine with a beautiful nose; the tannins though are on the tough side as in many of these Terre Nere 2017 reds. A very good wine of noteworthy promise, my suggestion is to cellar this for another 4-6 years for full enjoyment.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2015 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana, $64.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Vivid medium dark red. Piercing aromas of red cherry, minerals and soy sauce. The flavors are similar to the aromas, with an underlying element of crushed rock that adds a welcome saline note contributing freshness. Very mineral round and smooth, this is atypically shaped for a Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso. Closes long with hints of orange peel, Mediterranean herbs and minerals. The bright mineral sheen and Burgundy-like aromas and flavors are typical Calderara Sottana, though this strikes me as being just a little softer and rounder than usual.

Whites

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2019 Etna Bianco Cuvée della Vigne Niche Superiore, $47.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

The 2019 Etna Bianco Cuvée della Vigne Niche Superiore lights up the senses with a seductive mix of honeydew melon, kiwi and hints of sage and wet limestone. It’s angular and tactile in feel, showcasing mineral-tinged orchard fruits. A note of ginger and bitter citrus peel creates tension toward the close. Hints of hazelnut linger under an air of inner florals as the 2019 tapers off with youthful poise and a salty flourish. The Cuvee della Vigne Niche Superiore is made 100% from old-vines Carricante. For all the depth, richness and intensity here, I was delighted to see the alcohol clocking in at 12%. Only 3,000 bottles were produced in this vintage due to a hail storm that struck right before harvest. Also worth noting is that the Superiore continued to improve over the course of eight hours in the open bottle.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche-Santo Spirito, $42.99, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

The 2018 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche-Santo Spirito is rich and honeyed, showing ripe peach and almond paste, yet gaining freshness through evolving notes of crushed stone and spring flowers. It soothes with soft, silky textures, building momentum as saline-minerals add grip to its ripe orchard fruits. A hint of vanilla bean and sweet spice lasts throughout the long, dramatic finale. The 2018 is pleasurable from start to finish, alluringly sweet and rich yet balanced. I can assure you that comparisons to white Burgundy certainly fit the bill here.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2019 Etna Bianco Calderara Sottana, $48.99, 95 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

There’s an airy and inviting freshness to the 2019 Etna Bianco Calderara Sottana that pulls you close to the glass, as a nuanced display of dusty dried flowers, cardamom, crushed stone and honeyed orchard fruits comes forward over time. It’s silky and seductive on the palate, showing a pretty inner sweetness, with ripe pear giving way to notes of almond as inner florals amass toward the close. Minerals and hints of citrus sizzle throughout the long finale under an enriching air of custard. As beautiful as this is today, it will only get better over time. Simply stunning.

Pesto & Pigato, PERFECT PAIRING FROM THE LIGURIAN COAST

Who doesn't love pesto, that rich, green highly aromatic sauce known for its decisive yet delicate flavor? Fresh pesto is one of those foods that epitomizes Italian cuisine  - a blending of 6 high quality ingredients that when made fresh can make the most simple things taste divine.

I can't eat pesto without thinking of its famous home in Italy, the Ligurian coast. A small and breathtakingly gorgeous region, Liguria sits on the Mediterranean Sea in Northwest Italy. The location along the pristine coastline, its back set up against the steep hills of the Appennini Mountains, give it a unique microclimate and landscape that produces the majority of the ingredients used to make their traditional pesto—Genovese basil, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil and even pine nuts from the Stone Pines that grow in abundance. And it's bordering region, Emilia Romagna, provide the essential Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

Ligurians are very proud of their pesto and fiercely defend their traditional recipe, Pesto alla Genovese. This is a D.O.P. protected food that has to be made in a precise way and with very specific ingredients. The primary ingredient being D.O.P. basil from Genoa, for example, because the soil and climate in that particular area gives the basil a flavor that’s impossible to replicate anywhere else in the world.

The are also very specific about they use pesto, never randomly adding it to chicken or fish as we often do. Pesto is used for 2 things, pasta and soup. But again, not just any soup but specifically minestrone alla Genovese, a staple of daily life on the Ligurian coast. In terms of pasta there's a bit more variety here as gnocchi, a local version of Lasagna and a few traditional dried and fresh pastas, are acceptable.

And of course the perfect pairing comes in a the form of a local wine made from Pigato (of the same DNA as Vermentino, Rolle and Favorita). The Punta Crena Pigato is produced by the Ruffino family who has be farming this particular land for the past 500 years. And they tend their vineyards as they always have; terraced by hand, grapes picked by hand, nothing added, nothing taken away - let the grapes do what they will. No pretense here, just light, fresh wine that marries beautifully with the local cuisine of fresh vegetables, fritto misto, fish and of course, pesto alla Genovese!

Here is the official DOP Pesto alla Genovese from the Consorzio del Pesto Genovese:

Ingredients:

Genoese basil - 70 grams, preferably young and fresh.

Grated Cheese - 50 grams Parmigiano Reggiano DOP (preferably aged 36 months) and 10 grams of Pecorino DOP (preferably aged 15 months)

Garlic - 3 cloves (preferably Vessalico)

Pine nuts - 1 tablespoon of nuts from the Mediterranean

Ligurian Extra Virgin Olive Oil - 3 Tablespoons

Coarse Sea Salt - a few grains

Preparation:

-Wash the basil in cold water and set aside to dry on a towel.

-In the mortar, crush the cloves of garlic with a few grains of salt until the garlic has softened. Begin adding basil leaves (but don't add all at once!) The essential oils of basil are stored in the veins of the leaves. For the best taste, you must be careful not to tear or shear the leaves. Use a gentle circular motion, slowly crush the basil by moving the pestle around the edges of the mortar. The consorzio allows for a food processor, but it must be down quickly so that the heat does not oxidize the pesto.

-When you notice a bright green liquid being drawn from the leaves, it is time to add the pine nuts.

Once softened, add the cheeses, and finally the olive oil in a very thin stream.

-Preparation should take place at room temperature and the sauce should be served immediately to avoid oxidation. So pour it over the pasta, possibly linguine or strozza preti, and enjoy!

MICHAEL KNISLEY'S TURKEY DAY CHAMPAGNE PICKS

What's better than Thanksgiving? Thanksgiving with Champagne! Champagne is one of the most versatile wines around when it comes to food pairings, which is great when you have such an array of flavors and textures on your holiday table. You can find one that will work from start to finish or, choose a few and pair them with different parts of the meal. Here are my personal picks for the upcoming holiday:

Champagne Louis Nicaise Brut Reserve
Many of you are already familiar with the affordable and absolutely delicious wines of Champagne Louis Nicaise. This is classic through and through - all 3 grapes, a blend of multiple years, and that cornucopia of fruit flavors, toastiness, acidity, and chalky minerality that makes champagne such a treat. (It's worth noting that the perfectly judged dosage here is also classic [read: higher than the prevailing "style" right now], and is a huge part why this is such a great all-purpose champagne.) All of that is reason enough to pick up a bottle - but this is a brand new supply that just arrived here in town and I'm here to tell you that this batch is showing superbly right now! This will be fantastic on its own while you cook, but also has enough complexity and acidity to match perfectly fine with whatever traditional Thanksgiving dish you happen to serve it alongside. There are particularly prominent flavors of perfectly ripe golden delicious apple and salted butter pie crust and they will make you keep the glass filled up. This always sells out before the next shipment arrives, so stock up now.

Champagne Lacourte-Godbillon
A new champagne has arrived to New Orleans! When I opened up the first few bottles last week, I was not only thrilled with how well they were tasting after their long journey but also immediately thought "these are going to be fantastic for Thanksgiving"! Based in the village of Écueil in the northwest part of the Montagne de Reims, the house is run by Geraldine Lacourte-Godbillon and her husband Richard Desvignes. They have spent the last decade changing the winery into a high quality, sustainable endeavor, and the efforts are paying off with each passing year as quality goes higher and higher. I have been anticipating the arrival of these wines for a while, and the wait was worth it. I'm sure you'll agree.

Terroirs d'Ecueil - the entry level wine for any house acts as a calling card of sorts, an introduction to their style (and more than ever in Champagne, their "place"). 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, based on the relatively generous and open 2016 vintage with about 50% reserve wines and aged for 2 years in their cellar before disgorgement, this is a proper introduction to the house as well as the village. Most of the vineyards face North and East, and the soil has high proportions of sand and clay over the chalk. Here, that comes through as bright tart cherry flavors and brisk acidity, that is softened and lightened on the palate by the effects of the sandy soil. It is elegant, lively, and well-crafted. It also can work from aperitif to main course to dessert.

Rosé - this is all Pinot Noir, made rosé by the addition of a small proportion of red wine (the most common method in Champagne). In this case, it is floral on the nose, with juicy plum and pleasantly pithy blood orange on the palate. While the flavors are bold, it again finishes light and crisp and makes you want to take another drink. This is fantastic with charcuterie and would be great with duck or other game birds.

Champagne Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Val Vilaine V16
One of the most sought-after champagnes in the world is Roses de Jeanne from Cedric Bouchard, a man who famously has said he doesn't really care much for champagne because the bubbles distract him. It's important to know that when you experience his wines. From the very southern reaches of the Champagne appellation, right on the border with Burgundy, he takes his carefully raised grapes from Burgundian type soil, and puts them through the champagne process with a light touch. In champagne, the winemakers can control the degree of effervescence, and he aims for the lower end of the fizz factor. So, it's useful to approach these as Burgundy with bubbles - in this case a Pinot Noir from a single plot and a single year, vinified in stainless steel and finished without dosage. This is the outlier of the group - it’s a beautiful wine, and deserves food, but only after you've let it breathe and open up. For maximum pleasure, I recommend opening this a few hours before you plan to serve it. Take a sip when you first pop the cork so you can see just how much it blooms during that time and begins to show it's brambly fruit and plum character, with hints of champagne toastiness and vibrant, refreshing minerality.

And of course, all of the above wines are available at Swirl :-) Happy Thanksgiving!

Drink Cru Beaujolais

As a wine professional, I have to say that the pre-covid days of Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the US were lost on me. But you have to hand it to George Duboeuf, the marketing genius who took a local celebration of the harvest and turned in in to an international event to sell more wine. You know the Duboeuf bottles, the ones with the flowers on the labels that you'll see stacked in grocery stores from November to January? Made with Gamay juice that's has literally been bottled only six to eight weeks after the grapes were picked, the result is basically under developed alcoholic grape juice that will get worse as it sits in the bottle. And unfortunately Americans have been led to believe that this represents Beaujolais as a region as a whole.

Cru Beaujolais is the stuff I get excited about - in fact they are some of my favorite red wines and are in good supply throughout the year. Each with their own AOC, cru Beaujolais comes from 10 named villages within Beaujolais and represent the region's very best vineyards. Wines from Morgon, Brouilly, Julienas and more have their own very distinct personalities and offer high quality, structured, age worthy alternatives to Beaujolais Nouveau and are becoming increasingly popular with Pinot Noir drinkers looking for something more friendly and affordable.

Moving from north to south on the map, the crus begin just below the Bourgogne’s Mâconnais region. The following descriptions of each cru is from the Inter Beaujolais website who has some amazing terroir maps and information.

Saint Amour: The Saint-Amour AOC is located in the commune by the same name, in Saône-et-Loire. Its mixed soil includes granite, schist and clay, producing wines with two different characters. One is light and easy-to-drink, with aromas of iris or violet and even raspberry. The other is powerful and complex, offering aromas of kirsch and spice. Soils: PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (48%), GRANITE (22%), BLUE STONE (9,9%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY; Elevation: 280 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Billards, Saint-Amour (2018) THE estate to try is hands down Domaine des Billards and we are lucky enough to have them available to us.

Juliénas: Stretching across four communes, mainly in the Rhône with a small part in the Saône-et-Loire, the Juliénas cru benefits from excellent sunshine exposure. The average altitude varies, starting at 230 metres and reaching 430 metres in the far northwest. The AOC definitely has one of the most diverse soils in the Beaujolais: schist, diorite and sandstone as well as clay. Soils:BLUE STONE (42%), GRANITE (3%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (29%), SCHIST (14%); Elevation: 330 meters.

Our selection, Domaine Chignard Juliénas Beauvernay (2018) As ardent defenders of traditional Beaujolais methods, the Chignards take a minimalist approach in both the vineyards and the cellar and both father & son are considered passionate perfectionists.

Chenas: Chénas is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It is named after the ancient oak forests formerly covering the commune, cleared by the Gallo-Romans then by the local monks by order of Philip V of France, known as ‘The Tall’. The vines stretch across rolling hills and valleys. These gamay grapes express notes of small black fruit, peony and spices highlighted by mellow tannins. Soils: GRANITE (47%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (49%); Elevation: 260 meters.

Our selection, Domaine Thillardon Chenas Les Carrieres (2015) -organic/biodynamic - Thillardon makes very clean natural wines, employing organic and biodynamic principles in the vineyard, limited use of sulfur and semi-carbonic maceration

Moulin-A-Vent: The windmill (moulin) – standing at 278 meters, surrounded by vineyards – is classified as a historical monument. It embodies the prestige and pride of the small appellation, straddles two communes, and benefits from a homogeneous terroir. After a few years, Moulin-à-Vent wines develop aromas of iris, wilted roses, spice and ripe fruit with notes of undergrowth and truffles, providing tannic, structured wines. When younger, they are floral and fruity, with violet and cherry aromas. Soils: GRANITE, LIMESTONE, MARL, SANDSTONE; Elevation: 260 meters

Our selection: Chateau Terrière Moulin a Vent Cuvée de la Lure (2016) - organic - The Château de la Terrière has stood in the village of Cercié since the 14th century, in the heart of Beaujolais region. It is one of the oldest estates in the region.

Fleurie: The Fleurie appellation has the geographical particularity of sloping down from a range of peaks including the Fût d’Avenas, Col de Durbize, Col des Labourons and Pic Raymont. The hill, called La Madone, towers over the appellation, offering a breath-taking panorama of all the vineyards. Fleurie wines are, without a doubt, the most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Soils: PINK GRANITE (90%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (8%) Elevation: 340 meters

Our selections: Domaine Chignard Les Moriers Fleurie (2018) and Clos de la Roilette Fleurie (2019), Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive (2019) These are 2 of the most iconic producers of the region.

Chiroubles: The Chiroubles cru is located north of the Rhône, in the heart of the village by the same name. The AOC is nestled on hillsides arranged in granite cirques whose series of amphitheatre-like valleys provide the vines with optimal exposure. These are the highest vines in Beaujolais (often on slopes with inclines over 30%), a guarantee of cool temperatures in the face of the current climate change. The Chiroubles growers are often considered “heroic”, given how physically demanding and meticulous the work is on the rugged hillsides. Soils: 100% PINK GRANITE; Elevation: 410 meters

Our selections: Daniel Bouland Chiroubles Chatenay (2018) Daniel Bouland makes some of the most old school and expressive wines in the whole of the region. Guy Breton Chiroubles (2018) 1.5L One of the Gang of Four producers who appreciate and cultivate old vines, apply organic farming practices, avoid the use of sulphur, let natural ferments do their magic and help the terroir express itself through minimal intervention.

Morgon: The Morgon cru, overlooked by Mont du Py, is the largest of the Beaujolais crus. The famous Côte du Py is made up of decomposed shale. The appellation’s wines offer aromas of stone fruit like sour cherries, with notes of violet and kirsch. Their delicate tannins promise optimal ageing. Soil: GRANITE (52%), BLUE STONE (37%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (11%) Elevation: 310 meters

Our selection: Jean-Marc Burgaud Cote du Py (2018) Considered an unmissable domain Jean-Marc Burgaud has been producing beautiful and ageable Beaujolais, especially Côte de Py for almost 30 years.
Daniel Bouland Morgon Corcelette (2018) Daniel Bouland makes some of the most old school and expressive wines in the whole of the region.
Marcel LaPierre Morgon (2018) One of the Gang of Four producers who appreciate and cultivate old vines, apply organic farming practices, avoid the use of sulphur, let natural ferments do their magic and help the terroir express itself through minimal intervention.

Régnié The village of Régnié-Durette is especially noteworthy for its church with two spires (built in 1867 based on the design by Pierre Bossan, the architect who later built the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière). The vines are planted on slopes at an average of 350 metres in altitude, facing southeast. This appellation’s wines are light, easy-to-drink and rich in mineral elements, very aromatic, maturing quickly. Soils: GRANITE (64%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (34%); Elevation: 350 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Braves Régnié (2018) The elevation, soil and south facing slope makes for Beaujolais with penetrating, lip- and tongue-staining color and gorgeous concentration.

Brouilly: Brouilly, the southernmost and most extensive of the Beaujolais crus, stretches out at the foot of Mont Brouilly and its chapel (Notre-Dame aux Raisins). The fruit-driven (plum, small red fruit) wines, sometimes with mineral notes, express the gamay bouquet perfectly. Brouilly wines can be enjoyed in their youth. Soils: PINK GRANITE (46%), BLUE STONE (4%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY, SHALE; Elevation: 290 meters

Our selection: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Vielles Vignes (2018) Jean-Claude Lapalu is one of the most respected and revered growers in Beaujolais and a leader in the Natural Wine movement in France.

Côte de Brouilly: At the summit of Mont Brouilly – the veritable emblem of the appellation – the Côte de Brouilly vines cover a small area across four communes: Saint-Lager, Odenas, Quincié-en-Beaujolais and Cercié. The wines are generous with delicate tannins and aromas evocative of pepper, small macerated black fruit and mineral notes. Soils: BLUE STONE (40%), GRANITE (24%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (12%); Elevation: 300 meters

Our selection: Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2017); Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2018) 1.5L Ever since taking over the family domaine in 1988, Nicole Chanrion works all 6.5 hectares by herself, from pruning the vineyards and driving the tractors to winemaking and bottling, all without bravado or fanfare.

Other Tasty Beaujolais Treats:
Domaine Domaine Chasselay Je T'Aime Mais J'ai Soif (2019)

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc (2018)

Domaine de la Madone BV Le Perreon (2018)

Château Thivin Beaujolais-Villages Rosé

Private Italian Wine & Food Events

Looking for creative ways to host small gatherings at home? How about a Private Wine Pairing Dinner with Sommelier Michelle Gueydan and Sfoglino David Paternostro. A Sfoglino is Italian for someone who crafts handmade pasta. Using simple, high quality ingredients, David employs century old techniques rarely found outside of Italy. Growing up in New Orleans with Italian-Sicilian ancestry on both sides of his family, David’s culinary endeavor (called Pasta Nostro) is continuing the tradition of connecting people through food.  He has partnered up with Sommelier Michelle Gueydan and her company VinoSolutions to provide fun and educational wine dinners in the convenience of your home.  David preps his ingredients ahead of time and executes a 3-course dinner from your kitchen, featuring his homemade ricotta, pastas and sauces.  Michelle selects 6 artisanal and boutique wines from Swirl to pair, which can be catered to the host/hostess’ preferences.  This duo will certainly make your evening memorable, replete with David’s pasta rolling demonstrations and Michelle’s informational stories on wines/winemakers that are “off the beaten path.”  Packages start at $110 per person (which also includes a welcome cocktail and a 4th dessert course featuring fresh, locally made ice cream).  Bookings require a minimum of 15 people and 25 maximum.  To plan your private dinner gathering, contact Michelle directly: 571-228-4832 or michelle@vinosolutions.com

Love Pizza? Try our 3 Pack with Pairings from Local Pizzerias!

Ancora’s Pizza Bianca

Really, who doesn't love pizza?  It is undeniably the most popular food in America - what's not to love about the base of fresh tomato sauce and melted cheese topped with your favorite veggies and meat?  We make pizza at home often but when we want to pick it up we have a few favorite places around the city.  This week I've picked some must tries from different pizzerias to pair with our 3 pack - hopefully it will inspire you to check out these great spots, pick up a pie and wash it down with our pairings.  Or just pick up a 3 pack and explore some fun new wines!  

We wish we could pair wines with pizza in all of our favorite spots but we had to keep it to 3 and we tried to spread the love around the city - others include Paladar 511, Tavolino, Mid City Pizza, and Pizza Domenica.  All of our amazing restaurants are dependent upon local support right now so pick up that phone and order a pizza or two or three to pair with these wines!

Here's the lineup:
Celli Vini I Croppi Albana  (certified organic) - 100% Albana; This is one of my favorite white food pairing wines (it was fab with my roast chicken last night!).  An ancient grape not seen much outside of the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy, this wine comes specifically from the town of Bertinoro on the Romagna side.  While it has the typical stone and tropical fruit notes, the specific terroir of the region gives is great minerality and salinity.  I'm going to one of our favorite uptown spots to pair a pizza with this one, Ancora,who specializes in authentic Neapolitan pizzas and house-made salumi.  Pick up their Pizza Bianca (pictured above) to pair with this one. Ancora Pizzeria, 4508 Freret Street, 504.324.1636

Mercato Carne  (sustainable) - Primitivo, Nero d’Avola, and Nero di Troia; The name of this wine sort of gives away the pairing - Carne means meat in Italian and our friends from Uva Imports created this wine to give you the true experience of a "house" red in an Italian trattoria. The vino della casa is often made by the family that owns the restaurant and gives you that fresh, gulpable wine that you buy by the carafe to wash down their delicious food.  Made for immediate drinking and total enjoyment, this wine is super juicy with ripe, red fruit and a little spice on the finish.  For our pairing, Sofia offers specialty, gourmet pizzas made in their gorgeous wood burning oven with a unique mix of toppings and their Commandatore with it's 3 different meats is a match made in heaven with the red grapes from Puglia! 516 Julia St. 504.322.3216

Famiglia Carafoli 'Nicchia' Lambrusco di Modena  (natural) Made from the 3 Lambrusco varieties of Salamino / Marani / Grasparossa, this small family winery specializes in Lambrusco - the signature wine of Emilia-Romagna and one of my favorite pizza wines!  Lightly carbonated, this is on the dry side of Lambrusco with fresh pomegranate, cranberry and cherry on the nose - it's a little lighter in body than some Lambruscos which makes it perfect with the Vegan Peppadew & Argula pizza from one of New Orleans' favorite spots, Pizza Delicious! It comes cheese-less but you can add vegan cheese or mozzarella if you so desire.  617 Piety Street, 504.676.8482

And you can try these 3 unique and delicious wines for $45 with the 3 pack discount, order yours for pickup or add to your delivery by calling us at 504 304 0635.