Taste The Wines of Bastianich Tonight @ Swirl

Lidia Bastianch and her son Joe have dedicated their lives to bringing the best of Italy home to your table.  Award winning restaurants, best selling books, popular cooking shows, and amazing wines, they've created an Italian family food dynasty like nothing else I've seen.

Lidia's cookbooks are some of our favorites and I feature her recipes regularly on my blog and Joe's book "Vino Italiano" is one of my go to references on the crazy world of Italian wine.  Besides owning 18 restaurants across the country, they now own three wineries in Italy in Friuli, Tuscany and recently a property in Piedmont, all which produce very high quality, food friendly wines at approachable prices.  Due to our crazy tasting schedule, the wines go in and out of inventory so, needing a Bastianich fix, I asked Monica from Neat Wines about doing an event.  We'll be tasting 5 wines from Friuli and the Maremma and I might just throw in a special treat of an older vintage bottle of their 5 time winner of the acclaimed "Three Glasses" award, The Vespa Bianco.  We'll have copies of a few of Lidia's recipes available and some Italian cured meats and cheeses to try with the wines.

Our events with the Neat Wines crew are always fun and with this lineup, Tuesday night is sure to be a sell out, so please call 504.304.0635 for a reservation.  Attendance is limited and pre-payment is required to hold your spot. $10, Tuesday, 6:30-8pm.

Wine of the Moment, 2007 Foradori Granato

If obscure Italian grape varieties, produced organically by a superstar female winemaker, that combine elegance, finesse, power and purity, sound interesting to you, then I've got the perfect bottle.  The grape is Teroldego (ter-ROHL-dego) and the winemaker is Elizabetta Foradori. 

Located in the Dolomite mountains of Trentino, Foradori is single-handedly credited with restoring one of Italy's ancient treasures to its former glory, even surpassing it.  Through tireless dedication, skillful cultivation and back-breaking hard work she has brought Teroldego from obscurity to the lips of Sommeliers and wine-store owners across the globe.

 The grape is only grown in Trentino, and the best appellation is Campo Rotaliano, were Foradori's vineyards are located.  Genetically linked to Syrah and Lagrein, Teroldego can be easily overcropped to produce bright, fresh, balanced, fruity wines to be drunk young. But its personality is transformed if yield is restricted, when it offers lush, concentrated dark stone fruit and black cherry flavors and aromas offset by smoke, herb and bitter almond notes. It is marked by a particularly fine acidic balance and complexity, and restrained oak contact rounds out its structure.

I am so excited to not only have this wine in the shop, but to have it available in half bottles at the bar or to take home!  Come check it out as well as other great quality selections from our half bottle list.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 2007 Foradori Granato, 94 points:  "Ripe, silky tannins caress the palate as the 2007 Granato emerges from the glass. Crushed, flowers, raspberries and spices meld together beautifully in this mid-weight, gracious Granato. Today the aromas and flavors are quite primary, but the wine should harmonize to a greater extent with another year or two in bottle. Subtle notes of oak linger on the elegant, polished finish. This is another superb Granato from Elisabetta Foradori."

Palmento Event, Celebrating the Wine and Food of Sicilia

“I went to Sicily in the winter of 2008 to explore and write about an emerging wine scene. What I discovered in more than a year of travels to the island was more than a fascinating, teeming wine frontier; I found something close to my own heartbeat.” 
Robert Camuto


Most of you who read my blog or make regular visits to the shop know that I am enamored with the wine, food and culture of southern Italy and particularly that of the island of Sicily.  I've been writing about Sicily, especially the Mount Etna region for over 2 years now.  At the time there was not one wine from the Etna available in New Orleans.  But now through the help of a few daring wholesalers, especially Matt Lirette, I can pick and choose from many whites, reds and roses from an area that I feel is one of the most exciting up-and-coming wine regions on the planet, period.

So you can imagine how excited I was when Robert Camuto, author of Palmento, a Sicilian Wine Odyssey, contacted me about making New Orleans part of his national book tour and if we would be interested in doing an event around his visit.  Knowing what a huge Sicilian population resides in our food and drink obsessed city, I told him we were very interested and that I thought he would be well received.  And then the wheels started turning, how could we present an event that best compliments the book?  Sure we could do a wine tasting and book signing at the shop, but we would be missing an extremely important element of Sicilian culture....here's how things have come together:

The star of the show, of course, will be Robert Camuto, who will do a short presentation on his book as well as sign copies that will be available for purchase that evening.  I can't tell you how much I enjoyed reading Palmento and how it transported me back to that wonderful two weeks we spent visiting most of the producers that he speaks of in the book.  From the slopes of Mount Etna to the shores of Marsala and the island of Pantelleria, Robert takes you on a wonderful journey introducing you to the current players, some new and some whose families have been there for generations, but who all have important roles in this exciting, constantly evolving wine scene.  Robert is a writer who appreciates wine, not a critic, and his book explores the very human elements that effect what is your glass.  He shows you how family, relationships, food, history and wine are all intricately entwined in a uniquely Sicilian way, creating a culture that is unlike any other.

Kerry and me with Chiara Planeta

Now onto the rest of the event...So of course my first phone call was to chef Josh Smith at a Mano, because no Italian wine event is complete without regional foods to pair, and there is no better place in the city than a Mano to do something focused on southern Italy.  Josh too was very excited, and we decided we wanted to do something different the traditional sit down dinner approach.  We also wanted to make it affordable and expose as many people as we could to the amazing wines and foods of Sicilia, keep it fun and create many different pairing opportunities.  So we are presenting the event in more of a "walk about" style where you will move from station to station and sample a unique wine and food pairing at each one; twelve wines, twelve traditional Sicilian dishes from all over the island.

Tasting with Frank Cornelissen on the Etna

As in Robert's book, we wanted to represent the small artisan producers as well as the more internationally know icons of the industry.  So my next two phone calls were to the wholesalers in the area whose portfolios best suit those parameters, Antonio Molesini from Republic National Beverage and Matt Lirette of Lirette Selections.  When I told them the premise behind the event, both were excited to be involved and we began pouring over portfolios to select the best wines to represent the island of Sicily, and let me tell you that narrowing it down to 12 wines was a difficult task!

Tasting Marsala with Renato De Bartoli

But the list is now in chef Josh's hands and I am anxiously awaiting his menu ideas to pair with the wines.  Antonio and company will be representing the international stars of Planeta, Donnafugata and Feudo Maccari while Lirette Selections will focus on the small offerings from Frank Cornelissen, Occhipinti and Pietradolce.   I can't wait to see it all come together, and hope that you will consider joining us to meet Robert and celebrate the wine, food and culture of Sicilia!

Event details:

March 20th, 5-7pm
a Mano, 870 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
$35
Palmento will be available for purchase at the event.
Call 504.304.0635 for reservations, prepayment is required.

Meatballs, Mezzogiorno Style

I am a huge fan of the wine and food from Southern Italy, hence my love of a Mano in the warehouse district, and am always searching for new wines, cookbooks and recipes from the region.  One of the most complete books I have come upon that takes an in depth look at both the cucina povera (humble cooking) style of food and the wacky indigenous grape varieties is the A16 Food + Wine from one of San Francisco's most popular restaurants.  Former chef Nate Appleman and wine director Shelly Lindgren have put together a wonderful resource that is part cookbook and part textbook, beautifully written and with stunning photographs of Italy, the restaurant and some of the cooking methods.  I did a quick post on it last year when I first got the book, but this week I made one of the recipes that I've been eying since I bought it.

Meatballs anyone? How can you not love a meatball, the traditional start to the Sunday dinner in most Italian families?  However in Italy, meatballs are rarely served as we do atop a heaping pile of spaghetti covered in a rich tomato sauce.  Throughout most of Italy meatballs (polpette) are usually served as a second course without toppings or sauce, with the exception of southern Italy where a variation is prepared in tomato sauce but is a main course without pasta as in the recipe below.

 What intrigued me about the A16 description of their meatballs was the light texture due to the higher bread content that is prevalent in recipes from the Mezzogiorno (southern Italy).  More bread means less meat and less expense, hence cucina povera, and it the case of this recipes a deliciously light, airy meatball.  With the added bread they are a meal in themselves, but I have to say I deviated from the recipe in that I did serve them over a little angel hair pasta...

Besides the fact that my mouth watered every time I looked at the recipe, I also wanted to try out the meat grinder attachment for my Kitchen Aide mixer that I have to say performed beautifully.  But if you use a meat grinder be sure to read the instructions for your equipment on grinding meat and bread, as they will tell you the proper methods and speeds to get the best results.

I only deviated from the recipe once (besides the addition of pasta...) and that was in the amount of salt I used.  The pork fat I got was from Whole Foods and the label on the package saild "salt pork"  so I decreased the amount of salt to 2 tsp instead of a tablespoon and only added 1 tsp to the tomato mixture.  I'll note this in the ingredient list to remind you.  There will be a point in the recipe where you can adjust if you feel you need more salt.

The result was nothing short of fabulous! The texture was incredible and nothing like any meatballs I've ever had.  It does take some time though to grind every thing if you do as I did, but it was SO worth the effort!

I so wanted to drink the recommend wine, and Aglianico from Campagnia, but was too lazy to go to the shop and get a bottle.  So we settled for the most amazing bottle of the Conterno Fantino Mon Pra, a super Piemontese blend of Cabernet, Nebbiolo and Barbera that blew us away.  Not cheap, but definitely one of those bottles I'd like to have again and again...But we do have a wonderful Aglianico from Bisceglia in stock that would pair beautifully at $16.99.

Ok, so on to the recipe.  Take your time and have fun with this, you will thoroughly enjoy what comes out of the oven.  But don't cut corners with ingredients and sub low fat milk for whole milk or leave out the pork fat as one blogger did with not so good results!  It's a meatball!

A16's Monday Meatballs
Makes 28 to 30
-10 ounces boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1" cubes and ground in a meat grinder or finely chopped in a food processor.
-10 ounces beef chuck, cut into 1" cubes and ground in a meat grinder or finely chopped in a food processor.
-6 ounces day-old country bread, cut into 1" cubes and ground in a meat grinder or finely chopped in a food processor.
-2 ounces pork fat, cut into 1" cubes and ground in a meat grinder or finely chopped in a food processor.
-2 ounces prosciutto, chilled in the freezer for 15 minutes, cut into 1" cubes and ground in a meat grinder or finely chopped in a food processor.
-1 cup loosely packed, fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
-**1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided **(I used 2 teaspoons plus 1 teaspoon)
-2 teaspoons dried oregano
-1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds
-1 teaspoon dried chile flakes
-2/3 cup fresh whole milk ricotta, drained if necessary (if sitting in whey, drain overnight in cheesecloth)
-3 eggs, lightly beaten
-1/4 cup whole milk
-1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes with juice
-Handful of fresh basil leaves
-Block of grana padana for grating
-Best-quality olive oil for finishing

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Coat 2 rimmed baking sheets with olive oil. In a large bowl, combine the pork, beef, bread, pork fat, prosciutto, parsley, 2 teaspoons salt, oregano, fennel seeds and chile flakes and mix with your hands just until the ingredients are evenly distributed. Set aside.

2. In a separate bowl, whisk together the ricotta, eggs and milk just enough to break up any large curds of ricotta. Add the ricotta mixture to the ground meat mixture and mix lightly with your hands just until incorporated. The mixture should feel wet and tacky. Pinch off a small piece, flatten it into a disk, and cook it in a small sauté pan. Taste and adjust the mixture’s seasoning with salt, if needed. Do this, it will help you determine the correct amount of salt

3. Form the mixture into 1 1/2 -inch balls, each weighing about 2 ounces, and place on the prepared baking sheets. You should have about 30 meatballs.

4. Bake, rotating the sheets once from front to back, for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the meatballs are lightly browned. Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 300 degrees. (At this point you can continue with the recipe or after they've cooled, refrigerate meatballs for up to 2 days or freeze and thaw completely before starting the next step)

5. Sprinkle the tomatoes with the remaining salt, and then pass the tomatoes and their juices through a food mill fitted with the medium plate. Alternatively, put the entire can of tomatoes and salt in a large bowl, don an apron and squeeze the tomatoes into small pieces with your hands.

6. Pack the meatballs into 1 large roasting pan or 2 smaller roasting pans. Pour the tomato sauce over the meatballs, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and braise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the meatballs are tender and have absorbed some of the tomato sauce.

7. Remove the pans from the oven and uncover. Distribute the basil leaves throughout the sauce.

8. For each serving, ladle the meatballs with some of the sauce into a warmed bowl. Grate the grana over the top, drizzle with olive oil to finish and serve immediately.

Buon Appetito!

Under the Radar Wines

Here's my latest on wines in the store right now that I think are really interesting, with distinct personalities that you should know about.  These aren't expensive, none of them are even rated by any of the industry mags, but just really good solid wines with a sense of place that deliver a lot for the money.

2009 Cuvelier Cuvee Maule - Hands down one of the most interesting, complex, unusual and absolutely tantalizing wines I've tasted in a while, and especially at this price point.  You find something different every time you put your nose in the glass and the palate just keeps you coming back for more and more...Made in Chile by Baptiste Cuvelier (whose family just happens to own Chateau Leoville Poyferre in Bordeaux...), one of many French winemakers enjoying the freedom that comes with making wine in South America.  The 2010 earthquake in Chile destroyed much of what was in barrels from the 2009 vintage, forcing Baptiste to make an unusual blend of the undamaged wine.  And what a blend it is!  Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot, Carignan, Cinsault and Pais are all blended to create a pure, dense, rich and incredibly balanced wine with spicy red and black fruits, herbs and fresh mint.  All organic fruit and natural wine making techniques, this is a stellar wine at twice the price, but at $17.99 a bottle...what can I say.  I tasted this with Baptiste last month in the shop and was extremely impressed with all of the wines, but this was the standout and a new favorite!

2009 Taburno Falanghina - If I had to pick a white in the shop that I could drink over and over again and not get bored (which is difficult for me...) this would be the wine.  Made in Campagnia near the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, the mineral ridden volcanic soils at 1,000 foot elevation produce a delightful Falanghina.  This grape is native to southern Italy and provides the perfect accompaniment to light meals or just by the glass sitting on the porch! Crisp and fruity, this is an absolutely delicious wine! The falanghina grape can be tasted in perfect purity, with notes of almond blossom, lemon, and fresh nectarine. Refreshing, clean, perfect!  $17.50

2009 Delas Freres Cotes du Ventoux - One of my favorites on the cheap and tasty rack, this red has a level of intensity and richness well beyond what one can usually find at $10!  The Ventoux is a sub appellation of the Rhone and produces wines of the same varieties, this being 80% Grenach and 20% Syrah.  It's got loads of texture and density, red and black fruits, with a bit of an olivey note and soft, velvety tannins.  Great with cheeses, light meat dishes and would really shine with a grilled pork loin!

A Spirited Dinner in Celebration of Café Degas’ 25th Anniversary

 Join our friends at Cafe Degas in celebrating their 25th Anniversary with a food and specialty cocktails pairing menu featuring the fine spirits of Pierre Ferrand Cognac, Citadelle and Mathilde Liqueurs. Enjoy a 6 course dinner prepared by chef Laurent Rochereux assisted by sous-chef Joe Pedroza and hosted by Hugo Chambon Rothlisberger director of sales for Cognac Ferrand.  Hope we see you there!

Date: March 22, 2011
Location: Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Avenue
Time: 6:30 PM Promptly
RSVP: 504-945-5635 or www.cafedegas.com
Price: $75.00 all inclusive

 

Amuse
Oysters on the half shell served with aged whisky gelee 
Cocktail: French 75
Prepared with Citadelle, (a Botanical recipe dating back 450 years) Sparkling Wine, Lemon and Sugar

Appetizer
Terrine of Traditional Foie Gras served with Fleur de Sel and miniature Brioche
Cocktail: Pierre Ferrand Pineau des Charentes Aperitif

Seafood Course
Coquille St. Jacques; pan seared scallop,served in an artichoke heart with red curry & coconut sauce
Cocktail: Street Car
Prepared with Citadelle, Mathilde Pear Liqueur and Lemon Juice

Sorbet
Fennel and mint sorbet garnished with Citadelle

Entree
Roasted Duck, served with a braised celery gratin, fingerling potatoes, and a peach gastric
Cocktail: Vieux Carré
Prepared with Pierre Ferrand Ambre, Rye Whiskey, Sweet Vermouth, Simple Syrup 

& Peychaud’s Bitters

Dessert
Baba au Rhum

Cocktail: Plantation Fish House Punch

Prepared with Plantation 5 year Grande Reserve Barbados Rum, Pierre Ferrand Ambre, Mathilde Peach, Lemon juice
   

Space is limited!!
All recipes for cocktails and special pricing on all ingredients will be available for purchase

Pinchitos, Spicy Grilled Pork Skewers

We've had so many things going on these past couple of months that there's been no time for intricate, complex dishes that take lots of time in the kitchen.  We've been focused on quick, healthy meals that don't take a lot of fuss or hard to find ingredients.  Kerry made us a pretty delicious dish this weekend that definitely fit the bill, a finger-licking-good spicy quick grilled pork skewers that I can't wait to have again!

Pinchos or pinchito, the diminutive, translates as “little thorn” or “little pointed stick,” so pincho moruno roughly means little mouthfuls impaled on a thorn or skewer.

Ingredients:

•    1/2 cup olive oil
•    2 Tbs. ground cumin
•    2 Tbs. ground coriander
•    1 Tbs. smoked paprika
•    1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (or to taste)
•    1 tsp. dried oregano
•    1 tsp garam masala or generous pinch of cinnamon
•    1 tsp. salt, plus more, to taste
•    1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
•    2 lb. pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
•    2 tbs honey
•    2 Tbs. minced garlic
•    1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
•    1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
•    Lemon wedges for garnish

Directions:
In a small fry pan, combine the olive oil, spices and salt. Place over low heat until warmed through and fragrant, about 3-5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Place the pork pieces in a bowl pour spice mix over. Add the garlic, parsley, honey, and lemon juice and toss well. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Toss the mixture a few times during the marinating process.

Thread the meat onto skewers. Preheat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat, or prepare a hot fire in a grill. Grill, turning once until just cooked through, about 3-4 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter and serve with lemon wedges.

Serves 8 as appetizer.

Savory Bites: Changes at Le Foret

...offering tidbits of information on interesting discoveries in the food and wine scene of New Orleans.

We celebrated Valentine's Day a day early with a lovely dinner at Le Foret with our friends Gwen and Mike.  Our friend Mimi Assad has been part of the kitchen staff since October, and she visited our table with some very exciting news.  Nola.com reported last week that chef Jimmy Corwell and Le Foret were parting ways and that has meant good things for Mimi as she has taken over the executive chef duties!  We couldn't be more proud of her and if last night's food was any indication of her "staying power" she should have no worries!

The dinner from start to finish was nothing less than amazing, with each dish's presentation, creativity and balance of flavors and textures receiving lots of ohhs and ahhs from around the table.  Everything dish was exquisite, but if I have to pick a few favorites...

Appetizers: Grilled Hudson Valley Foie Gras with chanterelle mushroom ragu, medjool dates, parmesan risotto and the Gravad Salmon with Corn Fritters with housemade crème fraiche and chives.
Salad: Butter Lettuce and Shaved Apple Salad, pecans, lemon ricotta, mustard lattice, honey apple dressing (I can't tell you how creamy and delicious this was...)
Entrees: Roasted Tenderloin of Nature-Fed Beef with organic Bloomsdale spinach, potato mille feuille cauliflower parmentier, wild mushroom-oxtail bolognese and this amazing lamb wrapped in kale that Kerry had that I forgot to write down...
Desserts: Caramelized Milk Souffle with Chocolate Sauce (I scraped every bit of this from the bowl...) and the Blackberry Doberge Cake.

Congratulations Mimi, we can't wait to come back!!

Blackberry Doberge Cake

Montsant and Priorat, The New Spain

Spain has a long history of producing great wines, particularly the red wines of Rioja.  However, this famous name is just one small region among many which produce incredible wines that are off the beaten path for most wine drinkers.  The exciting Spanish wine regions of Priorat and Montsant are nestled at the base of the Montsant mountain range, just an hour and a half’s drive south of Barcelona.  Priorato is known for it's somewhat expensive, powerful, rich reds while neighboring Montsant produces vlaue priced, elegant, complex wines.  Both regions share many similarities, there are distinct differences in the soils and terrior that set the wines apart.

Montsant
Among the lesser-known wine-growing regions of Spain, Montsant seems like a potential treasure trove of solid, yet not too expensive wines, often coming from undervalued old vines. Its soil has some similarities with next door Priorat, and so does the varietal selection, but without the high price tags of Priorat wines.

Wine experts and press consider it to be an up and coming region and industry rags have declared it to be “a great discovery”.  The quality of Montsant wines is key to their success, as too is their great quality-price ratio. The prestigious Spanish wine guide, “Guia Peñin” agrees that “the quality of Montsant wines and their great prices make this region an excellent alternative.”.

The D.O. Montsant (Designation of Origin or wine appellation) despite being a fairly new wine appellation has years of wine-making history behind it.The D.O. Montsant comprises approximately 4,700 acres of registered vineyards and, as it is larger than its interior neighbor (Priorat comprises less than 4,000 acres), both its landscape and terroir are much more diverse. Montsant’s soil is a combination of granitic sand and calcareous soil, including limestone, large pebbles, some clay and shards of slate – all of which can be found in varying amounts throughout the appellation. In addition, although the D.O. has a similar climate to that of Priorat, Montsant has two rivers that run through it and they, along with the daily sea breezes that come in off the Mediterranean, provide the appellation with an infinity of microclimates that gives its wines a unique character. Montsant on average also receives more annual sun exposure than Priorat and contains as many of the extremely low-producing, century-old vines that make up the succulent wines so highly sought after in both wine regions.

In terms of wine style, the wines from the D.O. Montsant are full of flavor and finesse. True to their terroir, the wines of Montsant reflect “the fragrance of their landscape,” and are ripe with aromas of Mediterranean herbs (including thyme, rosemary and native lavender), exotic spices and black fruit. On the palate the wines are fresh and stunning, with notes of violets, blackberries, red currants, dried figs, sweet spices, toasted wood and subtle minerality.  Within the DO, varieties in a red Montsant wine can include Garnacha, Mazuelo (a.k.a. Cariñena), Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Tempranillo, although only a very small amount of this last variety exists within the appellation.

Priorat
What immediately distinguishes Priorat from other grape-growing regions in the world is its soil type.  Many believe the secret to Priorat’s success lies in its amazing, granite-like soils, known to the Catalan people as llicorella and to the rest of Spain as pizarra.  The llicorella soil resembles slate or shale rock, intermixed with tiny bands of reddish-brown earth.  The name llicorella stems from the Catalan word for licorice, chosen to describe the black, somewhat shiny rocky substrate which is high in mineral content.Another important aspect of Priorat’s unique terroir is its climate.  The region is extremely arid and receives hardly any rain during the summer months.  Irrigation is rarely used as water is scarce, and is typically saved for the youngest vines and the hottest years.  Due to the steep slopes, rocky soil and little water, the annual production per acre in Priorat is extremely low.  A head-pruned, old vine in the region might yield only enough fruit for a half-bottle of wine.

This low production directly contributes to the characteristically concentrated wines of the region, which have great tannins, deep color and high alcohol content (13.5-15.5%).  The extremely harsh growing conditions and low-yielding vines also help explain the high cost of Priorat wines, which are justifiably more expensive than those of other high-volume wine regions of Spain.  The grape varieties in Priorato include Garnacha, Garnacha peluda and Cariñena with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah vines having been included in small areas.



We'll be tasting wines from both Priorat and Montsant on Tuesday, February 15 from 6:30 to 8pm so you can taste for yourself the similarities and differences between these two exciting regions!

A Toast to All Things French, Wine Education Seminar

Well, maybe not to "all things" but certainly to their grape juice!  France is responsible for setting many of the international standards for which wine is judged today; yet, reading a French wine label and finding regions/varieties that suit your palate can be intimidating.  What is the Roussillon?  What grapes can I expect to drink with a bottle of wine from St. Emillon or Chateauneuf du Pape?  Does it matter if a bottle of Burgundy says Premier or Grand Cru, and what does the term "first growth" mean?  Please join us once a week on Mondays at 6:00pm for six weeks as we "tour," taste and decode the major wine regions in France.  Here's the line-up:

February 21:  Rhone Valley

February 28:  Bordeaux

March 7 (LUNDI GRAS): no seminar

March 21:  The Midi

March 28:  Burgundy

April 4:  Alsace & Loire Valley

April 11:  Champagne

Your tour guide will be Michelle Gueydan, who has a broad range of travel and career experience in food and wine, particularly in France, where she barrel tasted the acclaimed 2005 Bordeaux vintage, and even rode on the back of someone's motorbike to the acclaimed Domaine Pegau in Chateauneuf du Pape.  For six years, Michelle traveled internationally with former employers, Joseph Robert of J.E. Robert Companies and acclaimed musician/composer Quincy Jones, planning and executing meetings, events, concerts and wine pairing dinners.  Her Sommelier career highlights include five-star Relais &Chateau property, The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia , as well as her most recent stint as Wine Director for John Besh Restaurant Group in New Orleans.  A native New Orleanian, Michelle returned home in 2009 and has re-instated her former Virginia-based LLC, VinoSolutions, in Louisiana to offer local retail and restaurant outlets a unique opportunity to hire a Sommelier as a “Consultant."  Michelle continues to support the importance of education towards an end result: Louisiana as a destination not only for food and spirits, but also for WINE.

Each class is $30/person, or buy the entire series for $150.  Sign up early, as space is limited to 20 people per class.  Call 504.304.0635, reservations and prepayment are required to attend.

Cafe Degas' Infamous La Gratinee d'Oignon

I've been wanting this recipe for a long time, but thinking that something tasting this good would not be easily had, I never asked.  However, as I browsed the newly released Cafe Degas Cookbook, quickly looking through the soup section, there it was, their infamous La Gratinee d'Oignon.  Many nights I've sat at the small bar feasting on this hearty rich soup, savoring those soft delicious onions, chewing on the stringy melted gruyere, never wanting to get to the bottom of the bowl....

And the cookbook itself is really wonderful.  Starting with some of their signature cocktails, to amuse bouche and entrees and dessert, you'll see your favorite recipes accompanied by great photos from Sara Essex Bradley that really capture the essence and character of the place.  The cookbooks are available at the restaurant and they are having a book signing party at Cafe Degas on Wednesday February 16th.  Call Cafe Degas for more details, but in the meantime, make yourself some delicious French Onion Soup!


La Gratinee d'Oignon
from The Cafe Degas Cookbook


2 slices bacon
1 T butter
2 cloves garlic
3 medium onions
1 cup white wine
1 small bouquet garni
1 bay leaf
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 T thyme
1/2 t black pepper
1/2 t salt
Toasted baguette slices
Grated Gruyere cheese

In a large pot over low heat render bacon in butter allowing fat to coat the bottom of the pot.  Add garlic and simmer lightly.  Add 1/4 of the onions and cook stirring lightly until browned.  Deglaze with white wine. Add remaining onions, bouquet garni, bay leaf, stock and cook stirring occasionally for 1 hour. Add remaining ingredients and cook for 3 hours or until onions are very soft. To serve place one slice of toasted baguette on top of each bowl of soup and the drizzle a generous amount of cheese to cover. If desired broil for one minute to melt and brown cheese.

Cafe Degas

3127 Esplanade Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
(504) 945-5635  

www.cafedegas.com/

Under the Radar Wines

We've got a few things in the store right now that I think are really interesting wines, with distinct personalities that you should know about.  These aren't expensive, none of them are even rated by any of the industry mags, but just really good solid wines with a sense of place that deliver a lot for the money.

The first is something pretty crazy, a Brazilian Cabernet of all things.  It's made by the Miolo family who immigrated to Brazil from Italy in the late 1800's and have been making wine there ever since.  The winery is located in Southern Brazil in the Vale dos Vinhedos, between the cities of Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi and Monte Belo and is the only area of the country with a regional wine designation.  Their 2006 Miolo Reserva Cabernet is medium bodied, soft on the palate with an earthy nose of cloves, cassis and cocoa and it is a steal for $10.50.  If you are looking to try something new, this is not an ordinary $10 Cabernet!

Our second wine is a delicious Oregon Pinot Noir made by producer Dominio IV.  Lucky for us, famed Oregon producer Archery Summit had a little too much fruit in 2009 and a connection between the two wineries made it possible for Dominio to purchase their grapes.  The 2009 Dominio IV Love Lies Bleeding is made from the estate grapes of Archery Summit in Dundee Hills. Archery Summits' estate Pinot Noirs typically retail over $80 per bottle. This is a great chance to try their premium fruit at a reduced price! $22.99!!

A great little wine from Tuscany came to me last week at a really wonderful price that I just love passing on to our customers! Lionello Marchese's 2007 Sughere Morellino di Scansano is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet.  While a bit softer on the palate than their Chianti cousins, this Morellino has bright cherry notes, with a little earthy tobacco thrown in.  A lovely medium bodied red from an incredible vintage that would be the perfect accompaniment to pizza, pasta, cured meats and cheeses.  Nothing too complicated, but a joy to drink, especially with the right food! $14.99 (most prices online are $20 and up...)

Pork Chops with Balsamic Glaze

We had the rare occasion of a Saturday night at home this weekend and I wanted to cook, but didn't want to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.  I had bought some pork chops, not something I make often, there was a nice bunch of kale in the frig and some arugula pesto I had leftover from our most recent DC8 dish. I found a recipe for "Maiale in Agrodolce"  a Roman dish that used honey and balsamic vinegar to create a delicious, finger-licking-good, eat-it-with-a-spoon, sweet and sour sauce.  Now I've made balsamic glazes before but you have to trust me on how good and how simple this was...

My original thought was to grill the pork chops, but we were out of charcoal so I decided to just use the grill pan on the stove.  From start to finish this took me about 45 minutes and even if I had to make the arugula pesto it would have been the same, as there was a little down time and the pesto is quick.

Serves 4

Ingredients
4  10-oz. bone-in pork chops
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp. honey
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1  sprig fresh rosemary, torn into 1" pieces

1. Put pork chops on a plate; drizzle with oil; season generously with salt and pepper; let sit for 30 minutes.

2.  Meanwhile, combine vinegar and honey in a 1-qt. saucepan and cook over medium heat until reduced to 1⁄4 cup. Stir in butter and rosemary and set aside.

3.  Heat up a grill pan and add a few tablespoons of Olive Oil to keep the pork from sticking.

4. Put pork chops in the grill pan and cook, occasionally turning and basting with balsamic mixture, until browned and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let sit for 5 minutes before serving.

A Twelfth Night to Remember

Taking no break from the eating and drinking of the holiday season, we spent Twelfth Night last week feasting with friends.  Twelfth Night in New Orleans marks the end of the Christmas and the start of Mardi Gras, and gives us all another reason to have a party!

An interesting group of people made for great conversations with topics ranging from political discussions, recent films, travel, wine, art and ducks on the bayou (a discussion that ended promptly as views tended to swim on opposite banks...) Everyone contributed something for the meal, from delicious fresh baked breads, my favorite garlic shrimp, Kerry's zucchini ribbon salad, mushroom and truffle risotto, a decadent double dose of pistachio desserts with both cake and gelato, and the best beef tenderloin I've ever eaten doused with a delicious red wine sauce.  Made by Rachel and Marline with Moises Dundee Hills, the sauce was absolutely fabulous, and made even more special by having James Moises and his wines at the table.  We fed both stomachs and souls that night and I truly hope there are more such evenings together in our future!

Here is their recipe for beef tenderloin  and the cleverly coined "Moises Sauce".

Beef Tenderloin with Moises Sauce

Ingredients

4 T butter
1 T flour
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 cup finely chopped carrot
1 cup finely chopped celery
2 T tomato paste
1 1/4 cup Moises Dundee Hills Pinot Noir
1 1/4 cup chicken broth
1 1/4 cup beef broth
1 3.5 lb beef tenderloin
2 T cracked black pepper

Directions

Mix 2 T butter and flour in small bowl. Melt 1 T butter in heavy large skillet over low heat. Add onion, carrot and celery, sauté until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add tomato paste; stir until vegetables are coated.

Add wine; boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.

Add both broths, boil until liquid is reduced to 1 1/4 cups, about 5 minutes.

Strain liquid, discarding solids. Return liquid to skillet.

Add butter/flour mixture to sauce, whisk over medium heat until sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Season to taste with pepper. (Sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead.)

Take meat out of fridge, one hour before cooking. Sprinkle beef with cracked pepper and salt.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Put a small bit of vegetable oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add beef and brown each side 4 minutes on top of stove.

Roast about 15-20 minutes (or until meat thermometer says 160 if thick – if thinner maybe less 140). Remove from oven and let rest 10 minutes. Serves 4-6.

Enjoy!

Gambas al Ajillo (Shrimp with Garlic)

This is one of my absolute favorite quick and delicious shrimp recipes.  I make this often and can't believe I've never posted the recipe.  Fresh Gulf shrimp are a must and we get them either from K-jeans on Carrollton or the Farmer's Market.   Served with plenty of bread to dip into the garlicky oil, they are a huge crowd pleaser!

Makes 8 tapas size portions

ingredients
•    1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
•    4 garlic cloves, minced
•    6 whole dried red chiles
•    1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley
•    3lbs. head-on jumbo Gulf shrimp (shelled, deheaded and deveined is about 2lbs)
•    Salt
•    Crusty bread, for serving

directions
1.  Shell, dehead and devein your shrimp, rinse and pat dry.
2.  In a very large, deep skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the garlic, chiles and parsley and cook over moderately high heat for 10 seconds, stirring. Add the shrimp and cook over high heat, stirring once, until they are pink and curled, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to small bowls. Serve with crusty bread.

NOTES
Sprinkle the shrimp after they’re cooked with a crunchy sea salt, like flaky Maldon salt from England or chunky Sanlucar salt from Spain.

Wine of the Moment, 2008 Chono Reserva Syrah

Matt Lirette brought this delicious Syrah to me a few weeks ago to try and I knew we had to have it!  Chono is situated in the Elqui Valley, 500 kilometers north of Santiago, Chile and close to the Pacific Ocean which makes for cooling breeze and longer hang time for ripeness.  Handpicked from the stony, wind-swept slopes of this semi-arid desert vineyard, grapes give rich color and intense spice, with notes of tar and touches of bacon fat, a true poor man's Côte Rôtie!  Small yields give the wine great concentration, the tannins are round and supple, and the mouth delivers an endless flood of rich, black fruits.  One of Chile's most renowned winemakers, Alvaro Espinoza, guides this wine from field to bottle making for an outstanding value for its high quality, and a sheer pleasure to drink.  

$15.50; Try  it Wednesday in our 90under20 Tasting!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 90 pts

Medium purple; smoked meat and game, lavender, spice box; lots of flavor, no hard edges.

Savory Bites

...offering tidbits of information on interesting discoveries in the food and wine scene of New Orleans.

The Best Gimlet in Town 

During the busy holiday season when 12 hour work days are the norm you can often find Kerry and me sitting at the bar at Cafe Degas sipping on a cocktail and resting our feet.  Nick, the sometimes cranky but always entertaining bartender, knows what we want before we even sit down, his perfectly mixed Vodka Gimlet.  So refreshing with the tart lime combined with just a touch a sweetness, it is the perfect end to a long hard day.

We went over to Cafe Degas last night to toast the end of the holiday season and I asked Nick if I could have his recipe for this blog.  But like any good bartender or cook, the recipe is not exact as it depends on how juicy or tart the limes are (fresh limes are a must), what type of vodka you use, etc.  So here's his basic Vodka Gimlet recipe, that you can adjust based on how tart or sweet you like your cocktails.  

Cheers!

Vodka Gimlet

    * 2 oz Kettle One Vodka
    * 3/4 oz Lime juice, freshly squeezed
    * 1/4-1/2 oz Simple Syrup

Combine ingredients in a shaker ¾ full of ice. Give it all a good shake, strain into a pre-chilled cocktail glass, garnish with a twist of lime, and settle down to enjoy one of life’s tarter pleasures.
 

Top 10 Wine Moments of 2010

Like it or not, New Year's Eve tends to be a day of reflection. As many news publications like to write about the biggest news stories or the best movies of the year, I started reminiscing yesterday about my top 10 wine moments of the past 12 months. This isn't a buying guide nor does it have anything to do with ratings, I'm not even sure if all of these wines are still available, and some of the experiences are not even about a particular wine. These are really just 10 specific, very special moments in time when everything came together and made me pause and say to myself "hmmm! this is why I do what I do..."

1.  As much as we like to costume and drink wine, you would think that Kerry and I would be veterans of this New Orleans Mardi Gras tradition, but 2010 Krewe of Cork Parade was our inaugural year!  And what a time we had with six straight hours of Taittinger Champagne, lots of fun with our friends from Republic and the shop, great costumes and a festive parade through the Quarter. And of course Clovis Taittinger was the perfect Grand Marshall for the event!   

2. When Lacie from Glazer's first came to me about an event with winemaker Terry Hoage, I admit I had to a bit of research about the guy and his wines before I agreed.  But after tasting his small production Rhone style wines from California and checking out the great press on the wines, it was the fact that he was an ex-Saints player and that the tasting was in that magical month of February 2010 that was the clincher for the event.  And let me tell you we drank some really wonderful wine that night with Terry and his wife Jennifer being the most gracious hosts.  Everyone fell in love with both them and the wines and responded by buying everything, all seven cases we had in stock of his delicious, high end white, rose and reds from Paso Robles.  We're still waiting on that Saint's label Terry!

3. It was a Sunday night, I had a great day cycling, taking Sangi to the park, playing frisbee with Kerry, working on the blog, and of course, making pasta! I had a little bit of pork ragu left our dinner the night before and another pound of dough in the frig, so I made some quick fettuccine, Kerry did a beautiful salad and we were in for a delicious meal. I decided to do something very unlike me and drink a Napa Valley Cabernet with my Italian dinner! But it wasn't just any Napa Cab, it was the 2003 White Rock Cabernet made by Christopher Vandendriessche.  The crisp acidity, spicy fruit, leathery notes and lower alcohol content made it absolutely gorgeous with the food and that night I committed to seeking out more California producers that would please my old world palate! 

4. The tragic death of artist Rudy Rowell in December 2009 marked the loss of a wonderful man who fiercely loved New Orleans and the south. His colorful works were a passionate display of that love and touched so many people. On the night of Rudy's birthday, March 30, we held a silent auction in the shop to raise money for his mother who had suffered multiple tragedies in the past 2 years.  The evening of the auction was bittersweet as we were surrounded by his beautiful spirit through his paintings and by people who knew and loved both he and his work.  We drank the 2005 Gundlach-Bundschu Reserve Cabernet, adorned with one of Rudy's now famous paintings on the label, as we toasted his life.  His work brought so much joy to so many people and we are so grateful to have known him.  We really miss you Rudy!

5. What do you get when you combine two creative passionate wine geeks with a love of Napa Valley and an absolute devotion to experiencing all that is good about their native city? Vending Machine Winery, the love child of Monica Bourgeois and Neil Gernon, held their official launch at Swirl in April as family, friends and guests partied the night away drinking their 3 unforgettable, small production (50 cases each at the time) Napa Valley wines to Neil's crazy music soundtrack and friends running around in puffy wine bottle costumes depicting each of the three labels.  We had another event later in the year that rivaled this one, but the initial launch was a truly special night. Thanks Monica and Neil for letting us be a part of your dream, we love you both AND your delicious wines!

6.  We first stumbled upon one of Marco de Grazia's wines by accident a few years back in a little shop in New York.  It was the first wine I had ever tasted from the Etna region, and I knew then that something very special was happening on that wild volcano in Sicilia that I needed to know more about. Thanks to our friends at Uncorked, we had the pleasure of Marco's company in the shop for an intimate, seated tasting of his wines as well as a few others he is importing.  Soft spoken, loquacious and extremely passionate about the region, it was wonderful to hear about his approach to wine making on the Etna, to taste the wines with him and hear his stories about what makes this reason so special and one of the most exciting wine producing regions in the world today. 

7. Always more of a complete sensory overload of wonderful wine, food and people was our 2010 Tre Bicchiere Wine Dinner at a Mano with our friend Antonio Molesini leading the way. Each year we hold this dinner with Antonio that features six of the highest award winning wines of the Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso, at a top notch Italian restaurant. Chef Josh Smith nailed all of the pairings but I have to say my favorite in terms of food and wine pairing was the fresh pasta with lamb ragu with the Feudo Maccari Saia Nero d’Avola from Sicilia.   And as always, Antonio's humorous and informative presentation of the amazing award winning wines makes the evening just that much more fun!


8.  We were joined by friends for a last minute trip to the beach this past November to celebrate one of Kerry's milestone birthdays.  The birthday girl's request for dinner?  Steak and Champagne!  In addition to a few other beverages and snacks we popped a bottle of 2002 Taittinger Millesime as we dined on Tuscan style steak, reminisced about good times past, daydreamed about future adventures and laughed 'til we cried.  A beautiful yoga session on the beach at sunset led by our dear friend Angela made for the perfect end to a wonderful weekend.  It was definitely a birthday to remember!

9.  There's always something special about tasting wines with someone who has literally had their hands in the process from start to finish.  It's even more special if it is someone you've grown to love and respect for the person they are as we have with James Moises.  Anytime with James is in the shop is a great time, but standing beside him, while we all tasted for the first time each of his four single vineyard 2008 Moises Oregon Pinot Noirs, was a textbook lesson in how place can influence what is in your glass.  Each wine was vastly different than the next, having it's own unique signature while still being quintessential Oregon Pinot.  Thank you James for sharing your friendship and your delicious wines!  Your 2008s are gorgeous and we can't wait to see how they continue to evolve!

10.  Dinner at Rachel's is always an event, and even the most casual of evenings ends up being something special to write about.  But this night was especially so as a small mix of people, some strangers to each other, were invited to a dinner, prepared by Rachel and Tatyana, of their favorite tapas dishes.  All that was asked of us, their fortunate guests, was to bring a bottle of wine that meant something to us and had a story behind it.  Ours of course was an Etna wine, and the Frank Cornelissen Contadino is a story in itself but our memories of drinking it with Frank outside on his black lava rock patio made for an interesting tale.  As we sat around the coffee table littered with wine bottles sharing our stories, new friendships were formed and others deepened with delicious food, interesting wines and wonderful company.  After all, isn't that what this is all about?

 Here's wishing you and yours a Happy New Year!

December Deal of the Week!

To help you with you holiday wine shopping, each week in December we will feature an incredible deal on a wine, 30% to 50% off of the normal retail price.  And these won't be just any wines, they'll be highly rated by respected producers that you may know from spending time in our shop.

This week we have 2 deals:

2007 Bonny Doon Cigare Blanc - Rhone Ranger producer Randall Grahm is well know in the wine world for both his crazy marketing techniques and winemaking skills, and the Cigar Volant is his rendition of a Cotes du Rhone blanc.  This wine blew us away for its quality, delicious pineapple and tropical fruit topped off with nice minerality and balanced acidity.  An absolute joy to drink, it lists for $19.99 but this week only you can purchase it for *$14.99!!
 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 09; 90 Points: 
2007 Bonny Doon Vineyards Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($22; 64% roussanne and 36% grenache blanc; 14.5% alcohol) "Light yellow. Peach, pear and honey aromas, with notes of green almond and dried flowers. Pliant and fleshy, offering fresh orchard and pit fruit flavors and a subtle undercurrent of smoky minerals. A dry, focused wine that will be extremely flexible at the table; the finish leaves mineral and pit fruit notes behind. I like this wine's blend of richness and energy." 

Deal Number 2:

2004 Bodegas Almansenas Adaras - I am a huge fan of Grenache, and Spain produces some of the best.  Gorgeous, deep, dark fruit with a touch of smoke this is a lush wine that retails for $40 and up but you can steal it this week for $24.99.  But I have only 3-6 pack cases, so if you want it call me!  If you love the Alto Moncayo wines, this will really make you happy at this price!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, #169, $40-$56, 90 Points
The 2004 Adaras is 100% Garnacha Tintorera aged for 18 months in new French oak. It presents an attractive array of mineral, scorched earth, vanilla, black cherry, and black currant aromas. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with spicy, ripe flavors in a racy style.

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 07, 90 Points
($48; 100% garnacha tintorera) Deep ruby. Pungent blackberry and plum on the nose, with smoked meat, graphite and espresso nuances. Chewy dark fruit flavors are firmed by solid tannins that carry through a long but youthfully clenched finish.

*No other discounts apply

The Shotgun Paintings & Double Shotgun Wine Tasting

What do you get when you combine two creative passionate wine geeks with a love of Napa Valley and an absolute devotion to experiencing all that is good about their native city? Vending Machine Winery is the love child of Monica Bourgeois and Neil Gernon, native New Orleanians who bring a local twist to their small production, high quality yet incredibly affordable Napa Valley Wines.  We'll taste Loula's Revenge Chardonnay and the Crooked Mayor Cabernet, but it's the Double Shotgun that will take center stage tonight.  Louisiana born, Chicago based artist Grant Schexnider, creator of the artwork for the labels, will be in the house for this exclusive, one night only showing of "The Shotgun Series", his unique paintings of this New Orleans architectural icon.  Sounds like a great way to end our 2010 tasting series! The event is free and open to the public, Tuesday December 21, 6-8pm.

Vending Machine Winery Double Shotgun:  "Upon entering the front door you notice this room is scented with fresh herb and lavender bouquets. Proceed through the middle room where walls are painted a rich garnet and hung with pictures of pretty girls holding fruit pies.  In the back you reach the kitchen where someone is cooking up a meal of smoked andouille sausage."