This Week at Swirl Wine Bar & Market

photo by nola defender

Happenings 

Shopping on Ponce Just Got Better!
Everyone coming in to the store is just buzzing about our new next door neighbor, Maple Street Books.  Holding their official opening this past weekend with a reading and book signing by Catherine Campanella, author of New Orleans City Parks, they have turned a vacant residential condo into a beautifully inviting book shop.  Their friendly staff and great vibe are a wonderful addition to our neighborhood and we couldn't have dreamt of a better use for that space.
We ran a little special with them last weekend that rewarded you with discounts for shopping at both of our stores, and I'm already thinking about different wine, cheese and book combinations, so keep an out for more deals! 

5 Great Gift Ideas Featuring Local Merchants 

Speaking of shopping, if you are looking to keep it local, Ponce de Leon Street has a lot to offer! Here are a few gift ideas featuring your Faubourg St. John Merchants:

1.  Cafe Degas' Cookbook celebrates the 25 year old restaurant's food and history and contains one of my favorite dishes, their French Onion Soup.  Let us pick out a nice bottle of French wine and package them together for a great gift!  Buy the book at the restaurant and stop then stop at Swirl and have a glass of wine while we find the perfect bottle!

2.  Lux Salon has a great selection of gifts and products as well as excellent services.  Many patrons come to Swirl for cheese plates and wine to take to the salon while receiving services.  Ask at either shop about our "Spoil Yourself"  gift certificates from both places that are a win, win, win!

3.  Swirl's "Local Gifts with Heart and Soul" take shopping local to a new level! Bottles of wine made by passionate New Orleanians, accompanied by holiday ornaments handcrafted by local artists with contributions to area non-profits, these unique packages perfect for those looking to do something meaningful with their holiday gift giving.  And we have lots of other great handmade gifts by local artists, many accessories for the wine drinker in your life as well and beautiful gold carriers and boxes for you wine selections.  Click here for more photos and info on the packages,  Heart and Soul

4.  Maple Street Books has lots to offer in terms of books by local authors.  Pick up the New Orleans City Park book and combine it with one of our Getaway insulated wine bags complete with corkscrew and a favorite bottle to inspire a picnic in our local jewel of a park!

5.  FSJ Merchants - Give a "Day on Ponce de Leon" with certificates from your favorite merchants!  If you include us and at least 2 other merchants, we'll give you an organza gift bag to put your gift certificates in for festive packaging!

Facebook Specials
Swirl Facebook Fans should keep an eye out for limited run specials we'll be posting on our page.  Our FBE (Facebook Exclusive) post that will run this week will feature a free glass of wine at the bar with the purchase of a cheese plate.  The first 10 fans who say "I want one" on our page the day of the special will receive the FBE the day of the post.  So keep an eye out for my post sometime this week with our first special.  If you have a facebook account you can become a fan here:  Swirl Facebook Page

This Week on Swirl and Savor
Global Mexican Cuisine at Canal Street Bistro "...we've been twice before for breakfast and lunch, but this was our first go at dinner since Chef Guillermo Peters began serving on weekend nights.  Both of our previous experiences were excellent; great, fresh, creative food at good prices in a pretty comfy spot on Canal Street not far from our house..." Click here for the post, Canal Street Bistro 

Friday Free For All!  December 16, 6-8pm
Josh Prados will join us tonight with 4 great wines from his portfolio.  Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Antonio's Italy
We had so much fun on our tour of Tuscany, we've booked another....May 26-June 2, 2012.  Only 1 more suite is available so if you are considering this trip it's time to book! Copies of our itinerary and pricing can be viewed here:  Antonio's Italy

Upcoming EventsHoliday Yappy Hour at Fetch!  Tuesday, December 13, 6-8pm
More details soon, but I heard rumors about Santa pictures with your pooch!

Wednesday December 14 - Sorry No Flites Tonight!
We'll be prepping for a private after hours party, but the store is open until 8pm!

Friday Free For All!  December 16, 6-8pm
Josh Prados will join us tonight with 4 great wines from his portfolio...Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Festive Holiday Flite, December 21, 6-8pm
Join us  for a flite of  3 great wines while you finish up your holiday shopping!  You can check out our Facebook page on Wednesday to see what we'll be serving!  Flites are 2 oz pours of 3 really nice wines and are $12-$15.  Cheese plates and charcuterie plates will also be available.  No reservations needed, just pull up a seat at the bar and pick up your boarding pass!

Friday Free For All!  December 23, 6-8pm
We'll be pouring some great holiday selections tonight featuring 4 great wines...Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Saturday December 24, Closing at 3pm

Sunday, December 25 and Monday, December 26, Closed

Wednesday Nite Flites, December 28, 6-8pm
You guessed it, we'll be pouring flites of our favorite bubblies to bring in the New Year!  You can check out our Facebook page on Wednesday to see what we'll be serving!  Flites are 2 oz pours of 3 really nice wines and are $12-$15.  Cheese plates and charcuterie plates will also be available.  No reservations needed, just pull up a seat at the bar and pick up your boarding pass!

Friday Free For All, December 30th, 6-8pm
Join Greg Knaps from Lirette Selections with 4 wines from one of our favorite all around California producers, Lioco.  This is going to be a great lineup!  Something tells me we might throw in a bubbly for fun too...Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Saturday December 31, Closing at 3pm

Sunday, January 1 and Monday, January 2, Closed

Tuesday January 3, resume normal hours

Hope to See You Soon!
Beth, Kerry, Michelle, Matt, Michael and Sangi

Swirl Wine Bar & Market
3143 Ponce de Leon Street
New Orleans, LA 70119
504.304.0635

Global Mexican Cuisine at Canal Street Bistro

eco cafe/canal st. bistro, 3903 canal st. 70119

Our plan on Saturday night was to head down to the Bywater to see our friend Fatma at Fatoush for some of that local, grass fed, delicious lamb they serve but our friend Phil called with a plea to join him at Canal Street Bistro/Eco Cafe (I'm still not really sure what the dual name is about...).  We've been twice before for breakfast and lunch, but this was our first go at dinner since Chef Guillermo Peters began serving on weekend nights.  Both of our previous experiences were excellent; great, fresh, creative food at good prices in a pretty comfy spot on Canal Street not far from our house.  So we decided to meet Phil, a regular at the place, and see if deserved all of the hype he'd been giving it.

We've been fans of Chef Guillermo for years, back before Katrina when he was in a stripmall in Kenner turning out the best Mexican food in the New Orleans area.  Cheap, fresh, delicious food in a funky atmosphere, the salsa bar alone at Taqueros made it worth the trip.  In 2004 his hugely ambitious plan to open a two floor restaurant in the city brought him to St. Charles Avenue where Taqueros Coyoacan just never seemed to take off despite his talent in the kitchen.  So we were happy to see his name come up in association with this small, nicely renovated spot in an old house on Canal Street.  What an asset to the neighborhood!

First off, I do really like the atmosphere in the place, comfortable, laid back, casual, but elegant with white tablecloths and nice lighting. We came in jeans, but there were groups of people more appropriately dressed for a Saturday night out and neither of us looked out of place. So we like the vibe, we're fans of the chef, we've had two good experiences previously, needless to say we were pretty excited about what the evening would bring, but...we got off to a bad start when we asked about the price of a corkage fee for the one bottle of wine we had brought.  We were told by the host that Chef Guillermo personally chooses the wines on the list to accompany his food and does not allow guests to bring their own wines...period, end of discussion...ugh! Ok, so I look at the list (the wine list online is not current) to see what Chef feels is worthy of his culinary efforts and I see the word Estancia multiple times accompanied by the words chardonnay, merlot, cabernet, pinot noir...there were at least 6-7 different Estancia wines on the list accompanied by a few other California wines and a few Spanish wines.  And even though the Spanish wines were decent, I was so turned off by the response to my corkage question and the makeup of the majority of the list that chef was so convinced matched the quality of his food, I couldn't even order any wine. So we reluctantly decided on cocktails and the satsuma margaritas were nice and priced well at $7.50.

satsuma margarita

On to the food, we ordered quite a few of the small plates that are priced $6-$18. The large plates ranged from $22 to $34 and since our original plan was the totally affordable Fatoush, I couldn't mentally make the move into fine dining price mode.  Guacamole with tostados was a decent size serving, but at $9 it should have been; shrimp chipotle $9, was 4 gulf shrimp sauteed with red onions and chipotle chiles, served with tostadas and cotija cheese and was just short of being over cooked, but had a nice spicy, sweetness to it; tequila shrimp $9, was 3 gulf shrimp sauteed in a delightful creamy, tangy tequila chipotle sauce that made you want to dip anything you could find onto the plate; esquites $6, featured corn kernels sauteed with red onions, cilantro, jalpeños and a splash of lime juice, served with again with tostadas.  By this point we had been over served with tostados and I was starting to feel like they loaded them on the plate to help make up for the small portions of their "small plates".  We also ordered one of the specials which was grilled cojita cheese served atop a bright red slightly sweet piquillo coulis and scattered with capers; nice texture and good combination of salty/sweet with the piquillo sauce and the capers.

esquites

grilled cotija cheese

Kerry and I ordered the petite chipotle steak $18, that was a petite filet, grilled and served over an open faced quesadilla, topped with chipotle tomato sauce and queso fresco.  The rare meat was fabulously cooked to perfection and would have been an excellent match for the 2007 Cuvelier Coleccion Malbec blend from Argentina that was in my wine bag. Though delicious and cut it-with-a-fork tender, it was a bit overwhelmed by the sauce and the quesadilla underneath got soggy, giving the dish a bit of doughy finish.

petite chipotle steak

Phil ordered one of Guillermo's signature dishes that we've seen different versions of on a few of his menus, the diver scallops $28, poached in olive oil, served over rice and topped with poblano cream sauce. Again, perfectly cooked, slightly translucent with a firm texture, they had a wonderful sweetness that paired beautifully with the poblano cream sauce.  He has mastered this dish many times over and it shows.

So overall impressions:  good, creative food but a little on the pricey side for the portion size; nice, cozy comfortable atmosphere with attentive service but a disappointing sub par wine list that doesn't anywhere near live up to quality of his food.  And the attitude about not being able to bring a bottle for a corkage fee?  I'm not sure we'll be back for dinner, but lunch and breakfast rate high on our list.

KT's Winter Warmer Chili

It was one of those cold dark nights last week that I actually left the shop before 7pm.  As I opened the front door to Sangi's goofy dog greeting, comforting smoky, spicy smells drifted from the kitchen along with the rapidly clicking sound of a chopping knife in action.  Kerry was making chili.  I know if she is cooking the recipe is likely to include lots of peppers and a good amount of spicy heat, but there was another smell, a rich, almost caramel like sweetness in the air...ahh she had added one of her other favorite things in life to the recipe, a good dark beer. 

So we settled down with our delicious bowls of chili and cold bottles of Sierra Nevada beer while Harley the cat and Sangi made their cozy beds beside us to watch a little television.  There's nothing like a bowl of spicy chili in the winter to warm your soul...

Ingredients
    3-4 slices applewood or hickory smoked bacon, cut in pieces
    6-8 cloves garlic, chopped
    1 medium onion, chopped
    1 small green bell pepper, chopped
    1 small anaheim or poblano pepper, chopped
    (combined about 1 cup peppers)
    1 pound lean ground beef
    1 pound ground pork
    1 tbl. ground cumin
    1 tbl. ground coriander
    1 tbl. ground ancho chile
    1 tbl. smoked paprika
    2 tsp. dried oregano
    1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
    ½ tsp salt (add more to taste later if needed)
    3 tbl. chopped chipotle chiles in ancho sauce
    2 tbl. apple cider vinegar
    Ground cayenne pepper to taste
    1 bottle (12 oz.) stout or porter beer
    1 to 1-1/2 c. water
    1 15 oz. can crushed tomatoes
    1 15 oz. can pinto beans, drained and rinsed
    Shredded cheddar, for garnish
    Sliced scallions, for garnish

Directions
In large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, cook the bacon over medium heat until lightly crisp, remove & set aside when browned. To the bacon fat add onions and peppers and sauté until nearly wilted then add garlic.

While onions etc are cooking, in a separate pan brown the meat in a tablespoon of oil with a little salt and pepper briefly in a couple of batches and set aside. Finely chop enough of the bacon to get a heaping tablespoon.

When onions etc are done, add the meat to the Dutch oven, stir well. Now add chopped bacon, cumin, coriander, ancho chile, oregano, smoked paprika, black pepper, and salt. Cook for about 5 minutes over med. heat, stirring frequently. Now add crushed tomatoes, chipotle chiles, beer, and enough water to get desired consistency. Mix well, cover and simmer on low heat for 15 mins.

Add pinto beans and vinegar. If needed add a little more water. Mix well, cover and simmer on low heat for 30 mins. – stir a few times.

Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed and a sprinkling of cayenne pepper if more heat desired. Serve in small bowls with shredded cheese and sliced scallions.

Makes about 6 servings.

Local Gifts with Heart and Soul

This holiday season Swirl Wine Bar & Market has taken "shopping local" to new level. Bottles of wine made by passionate New Orleanians, accompanied by holiday ornaments handcrafted by local artists with contributions to area non-profits, these unique packages perfect for those looking to do something meaningful with their holiday gift giving.  

A Gift From the Heart

The 2008 Moises Vieux Carre Pinot Noir is made by local doc James Moises, with 2008 representing one of the finest vintages Oregon has ever seen.  As a tribute to his native New Orleans, James has named this combination of two of his favorite vineyards "Vieux Carre" and only produced 100 cases.  Add a handcrafted wood and glass ornament featuring our treasured fleur de lis from our friends David Porretto and Paulette Lizano plus a donation to Steve Gleason's Initiative Foundation that supports ALS research and give a gift from the heart.$65




A Gift with Soul

The 2009 Vending Machine Wines Double Shotgun is a tribute to the New Orleans architectural icon, the double shotgun house, made by local wine producers Monica Bourgeois and Neil Gernon, from some of the top vineyards in California.  With only 150 cases produced, this blend of Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot with its shotgun house label by artist Grant Schexnider is unique on its own, but when you combine it with a handcrafted wooden shotgun house ornament by Shaun Aleman and a contribution to the Preservation Resource Center, you have a truly special gift with New Orleans' soul. $60

Decadent and Delicious Meyer Lemon & Cardamom Ice Cream

Ever since my post, When Life Gives You Lemons, I've been dreaming about making the Meyer Lemon & Cardamom Ice Cream recipe.  So our dinner invite from a few of our friends tonight provided me the perfect excuse to try my hand at making ice cream, because with as much as Kerry and I cook, neither of us have ever made it!  But I have a feeling it is going to become a very dangerous item in our cooking repertoire!  And being that we only  have a few Meyer lemons left on our tree, it was time to act! 

We went to the farmer's market in the morning where I picked up fresh eggs and locally made whipping cream by the Rocking R Dairy.  We stopped at the new Rouses in the Warehouse District for Rock Salt for the ice cream maker and I had organic, unbleached sugar in the pantry with lots of cardamom pods from our Indian cooking.  Exotic and highly aromatic, cardamom is one of my absolute favorite spices.  It originated in southern India (no wonder I love it so much!) and is used commonly in both savory and sweet dishes like curry powders and chai tea. 

Kerry picked me 3 big lemons while I read the directions from the ice cream maker, given to us by our friend Mary.  I was ready!

This recipe is from the LA Times and besides the few adaptations I made, I found it to be pretty spot on.  But beware, there is nothing light about this.  It is rich, creamy, tart, tangy and sweet all at the same time with that hint of cardamom under all of that delicious lemon flavor.  It made enough for me to pack a quart container to take to dinner, and a half pint that I took to the shop for Mike and Michelle to try. 


Servings: 8

*3-5 Meyer lemons
*1 tablespoon cardamom pods, seeds removed and husks discarded, then lightly crush the seeds with a mortar & pestle
*1 cup half-and-half
*1 cup sugar
*1/2 vanilla bean or 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
*6 large egg yolks
*3 cups whipping cream

1. Peel 1 lemon with a vegetable peeler, taking care not to cut into the bitter white pith. Place the peel in a nonreactive medium saucepan with the crushed cardamom, half-and-half and sugar. Scrape the vanilla pod seeds into the pan and drop in the pod. Heat over high heat to just under a boil. Remove from the heat, and allow to steep for 10 to 15 minutes.

2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks, and then pour in some of the hot half-and-half mixture, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture back into the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it coats the back of a wooden spoon, 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the mixture through a strainer into a bowl. Finely grate the zest of 2 lemons and add it to the mixture. Allow to stand for 10 minutes.

4. Add the cream to the mixture. Juice 3-5 lemons and add the juice (you should have about three-fourths cup) to the cream mixture. Give it all a quick mix with a spoon, cover with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator for about 2 hours.

5. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. (Makes 1 quart.)

2011 Thanksgiving Hit List

Those of you who shop with us know that we just love food and wine pairing so helping to make your selections for holiday meals is a real treat. What should you drink with all of those sides and mounds of turkey? There are so many answers to that question that sometimes the best choice would be to open a bubbly, white, red and rose, put them on the table and let people chose for themselves because it’s all about personal preference!

Every year I give a few pairing tips with recommendations from our selection.  To spice things up a bit this year I've asked everyone on staff to make their personal picks.   We’ve chosen traditional and some more adventurous options at different price points so there is something for palate and every wallet.  Each of the wines will have a tag with that silly turkey photo above and if you purchase any four of these wines for your celebration, we’ll give you a 10% discount. And we’ll be featuring 3 of these wines in our Wednesday Nite Flites so come in and try a few to see if they'll suit your menu!

1.  For the wide array of flavors on the Thanksgiving table, sparkling wines are a no-brainer. Bright acidity, fruit and yeasty undertones make bubbly extremely food-friendly. Especially good are Brut Rosé and Blanc de Noir, which can take you from the lox or chevre hors d'oeuvre to the vinaigrette salad right through the turkey and potatoes and onto the pie. The Pinot Noir grapes in these wines provide body, some tannin for texture, red-fruit character, complexity and acid balance. And in general, the bubbles from natural carbonation from the yeast, in concert with the wine's acidity, help cleanse the palate for the next course.

Our Picks: Beth: Laetitia Sparkling Rose, $24.50; Mike: Nicolas Feuillate Champagne, $34.99; Matt:  Segura Viudus Reserve Cava, $9.99;  Kerry: Gosset Brut Excellence, $49.99; Michelle: Basca Cava, $17.99

White wines with lively fruit and acidity and little to no oak are also versatile. With its aromas and flavors of citrus, apple and pear and zippy acidity plus herbal notes, Sauvignon Blanc pairs with everything from butternut-squash soup to green salad to turkey with a dressing made of briny oysters and herbs. Even notoriously tough-to-pair Brussels sprouts will sing with Sauvignon Blanc. Alsatian and German whites like Rieslings, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris with their tropical fruit, citrus, green-apple, pear and mineral notes combined with thirst quenching acidity, work with almost any Thanksgiving dish except the cranberry sauce.

Our Pick:  Mike: 2009 August Kessler R Kabinett Riesling, $14.50;  Matt: 2009 Vending Machine Winery Loula's Revenge, $25.99;  Beth/Michelle: 2009 Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec, $19.99; Kerry:  Chehalem Chemistry, $14.50

Serious dry rosés made from Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah or Mourvedre grapes or blended proprietary rosés have acidity to balance the citrus, red and stone fruits and usually sport structure and a long finish but light tannins.


Our Pick: Mike/Michelle: 2010 Taburno Aglianico Rosato, $14.99; Matt: 2010 Codici Rosato, $11.99; Beth/Kerry: 2010 Belle Glos Pinot Noir Rose, $19.99;

Fruity reds like Beaujolais are a favorite "go-to" pick for Thanksgiving. They bring soft, easy drinking affordability to the table that's perfect for the cornucopia of flavors and large group setting that Thanksgiving entails. With their bright fruit flavors, they can perk up the milder dishes and enough have structure to hold their own with the more robust courses made with sausage and herbs. As an alternative, a good Dolcetto or lighter style Barbera can offer similar characteristics and are real crowd pleasers.

Our Pick: Mike: 2007 Cascina Delle Rose Dolcetto, $16.99;  Matt: 2009 Santo Cristo Garnacha, $9.99; Michelle 2010 Pierre Chermette Beaujolais, $15.99; Beth: 2009 Centonze Frappato, $15.99; Kerry: 2009 Palacios Petalos, $22.99

Syrah and Zinfandel have the spice, dark fruit and berries to bring out the best in cranberry sauces as long as the wine has soft tannins and ripe, forward fruit and the sauce is balanced -- moderately tart and not too sweet.  An alternative could be some of the spicy reds from Southern Italy.

Our Picks:  Mike/Beth: 2009 CS Cellars Vindetta, $19.99;  Matt: 2006 Cellar Masroig Sycar, $21.50; Michelle: 2009 Marietta Sonoma County Zinfandel; Kerry: 2007 Constant-Duquesnoy Vinsobres $20.99

The most popular single wine to choose for Thanksgiving is Pinot Noir. This versatile varietal has tangy red fruit of strawberry and cherry, with nice acidity to balance and low levels of tannin. With elegance and a touch of earthiness to lend complexity, Pinot Noir will subtly support most things on the Thanksgiving table without overpowering them. Cranberry sauce and dessert are exceptions again, with the sauce too tart and the dessert too sweet. Something a little more adventurous, but with a similar profile could be an Etna Rosso or a Sicilian Cerasuolo.

Our Pick: Mike: 2009 Dominio IV Love Lies Bleeding, $22.99;  Matt: 2009 Apaltagua Pinot Noir, $10.50; Michelle: 2009 Stoneleigh Pinot Noir, $14.50; Beth: 2008 Moises Holmes Hill Pinot Noir, $36.99; Kerry: 2010 Terre Nere Etna Rosso, $18.50
 
So there you have it! But remember the most important thing is to drink wines that make you happy with people that make you smile, because that is what it's all about!

Ricotta Gnocchi with Sherried Mushroom Sauce

I've always liked gnocchi, but never loved gnocchi until I had it at La Grotta, just off of the main piazza in Cortona, Italy.  The reason for my change of heart I'm sure has something to do with the fact that I was in a great little trattoria in one of my favorite hill towns with a very special group of people, but it also had to do with the style of gnocchi served at the table.

Tuscan Gnudi Gnocchi (photo from DaVinci Cookbook

People are most familiar with the more dense, chewy gnocchi made with russet potatoes.  But the term gnocchi comes from the word gnocco (pronounced neeocco) which means dumpling, and they can be made many ways. Because just like most of Italian cooking, these delicious lumps do not just vary from region to region, but from household to household as well, depending upon what is available. Besides the popular potato gnocchi there is the “semolina gnocchi” from Rome, topped with cheese and baked, gnocchi di panne from Friuli that is made with bread crumbs, and the gnoochi gnudi from Tuscany made from ricotta cheese and spinach.

Semolina Gnocchi (photo from lindaraxa)

 It is this Tuscan style gnudi that made me fall in love with gnoochi.  Soft, fluffy and light as air these creamy pillows are usually served in Tuscany with simple tomato sauce and are just heaven on a fork.  I've been inspired to have a go at making them, but decided to start with an even simpler version of gnudi that is made with just ricotta, flour, eggs and cheese.

The key to making these gnoochi successfully to me is good ricotta cheese.  We are fortunate that our friends over at St. James Cheese carry handmade ricotta from Caseficio Gioia in California by Vito Girardi, a third generation cheese maker from Puglia whose grandfather was one of the first makers of burrata. Ricotta is a simple fresh cheese, but flavorful and adaptable to many savory and sweet recipes. I just love the richness of this, it's the real deal! Pure white, a little nutty, slightly sweet with a fluffy, dry texture. Trust me, you will never go back to the store brands.  But call St. James before you go over, they don't always have it on hand.

The first step in this recipe starts the day before because even with this dry style of ricotta, you need to drain any excess water out of it over night.  This is especially important if you are using the more common store bought brand.  It is simple, just line a strainer with a coffee filter, put the cheese in the filter, set the strainer over a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Ok, so you've drained your ricotta overnight and are ready to make some Gnudi Gnoochi!  The best is to make these just before you are going to eat them

The gnocchi (from Lidia Bastianich):
*1 1/2 pounds fresh ricotta cheese or 3 cups packed whole-milk ricotta cheese drained overnight
*1 3/4 teaspoons salt, plus more for the pasta water
*2 large eggs
*1/2 cup freshly grated  Piave cheese (the recipe calls for Parmigiano-Reggiano, but we always have piave at the shop...)
*1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
*1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
*1-2 cups all-purpose flour, or as needed, plus more for forming the gnocchi (I know this sounds a little vague, but the amount of flour will depend greatly on dryness of the ricotta)

1. Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.

2. Turn the drained ricotta into mixing bowl. Beat the eggs and 1 teaspoon salt
in a separate bowl until foamy. Stir the eggs, 1/2 cup grated cheese, pepper, and nutmeg into the ricotta with a wooden spoon or spatula until thoroughly blended. 

3. Add 1/2 cup of flour to the bowl and stir. Continue to add flour (a little at a time) until the dough comes together (will be fairly sticky).  Using a spoon, scoop a small bit of dough (about 1 teaspoon) and drop it into the boiling water.  If the gnocchi holds it’s shape, then you have added just the right amount of flour.  If you see bits shedding off of the gnocchi, then you need to add more flour to the dough.  Stir in a bit more flour and repeat the testing process above till your gnocchi holds together.
 

4. Flour your hands, the work surface, and the dough lightly, as necessary, to prevent the dough from sticking. Divide the dough into six approximately equal pieces. Roll one of the dough pieces out with a back-and-forth movement of your palms and fingers to a rope about 1/2 inch wide.  

5. Cut the roll crosswise into 1/2-inch lengths. Repeat with the remaining dough. Dust the cut gnocchi lightly with flour and toss them gently to separate. Let them stand while preparing the sauce.

*At this point you can freeze some of the gnocchi.  I used half for the recipe and froze the rest for later!  When you are ready to use the frozen gnocchi, you don't need to thaw them, just put them right in the boiling water.

The mushroom sauce: 

*2 tablespoons butter
*2 tablespoons olive oil
*12 oz. shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, stemmed and sliced
*1/2 cup sliced shallots
*1 1/2 cup chicken stock
*1/4 cup good quality sherry
*1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
*2 tablespoons heavy cream
*Kosher salt
*Freshly ground black pepper
*3 cups coarsely chopped arugula
*Grated Piave cheese

1. Warm butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat.  Cook just until the butter begins to brown (about 2 minutes).  

2. Add sliced shiitakes and shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown (about 10 minutes).  Add stock, sherry and sage, stirring to combine.  Simmer until liquid is slightly reduced (about 6 – 8 minutes).  Stir in heavy cream, then season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Reduce heat to low to keep sauce warm while gnocchi are cooking.

3. Working in small batches (about 10 gnocchi at a time depending on size), drop gnocchi into the boiling, salted water.  When the gnocchi rise to the surface, scoop out with a slotted spoon and add to the skillet with the mushroom sauce.  Repeat until all gnocchi are cooked.

4. Return heat to medium, add chopped arugula and toss.  Cook until arugula is wilted and everything is nicely heated through (about 1 minute).  Finish with a healthy dusting of freshly grated Piave cheese.

This Week at Swirl Wine Bar & Market

Happenings 

Our Annual Bubbles Tasting Just Got Better...
Although I really enjoy each and every event we put on in the shop, there is something very special and festive about our annual Beautiful Bubbles tasting.  Lover of all things bubbly, Fine Wine Specialist Linda Smith of Republic National, joins us each year to celebrate the holiday season with a tasting of international wines.  We sip bubblies from California, France and Italy (of course!), getting more and more giddy with each glass of effervescent bliss.  It is truly a special event, and this year we've made it even better by adding one of our other most favorite things in the world, cheese!

Who better to invite to present the cheeses than our friends over at St. James?  Casey Foote will be joining us as we pair 5 cheeses from across the globe with our favorite bubblies. This is a perfect time to find that special bottle and delicious cheese to serve for the holidays, pick up a unique gift for the bubbly lover in your life or just enjoy a festive evening out.

The event is Thursday, November 17 from 6:30 to 8pm.  This is a seated tasting and limited to 20 people and we do have spots available, but they are going fast!  Call us at 504.304.0635 for a reservation, prepayment is required to hold your spot! $25 

Upcoming Events

Wednesday Nite Flites, November 16, 6-8pm 

This week we'll be popping some exciting bottles from little know regions in Europe and hopefully wake up your palates with new sensations! Spain, Italy and France will be represented with wines from Montefalco, Bierzo and Saint Bris.  Check out our Facebook page on Wednesday to see what we'll be serving!  We don't take reservations for the flites, it is a first come, first serve basis, so just pull up a seat at the bar and pick up your boarding pass! The flite is $12-$15, cheese plates ($12) and charcuterie plates ($10) will be available as well.

Annual Beautiful Bubbles with Linda Smith plus St. James Cheese, November 17, 6:30 to 8pm
5 delicious bubblies from around the world paired with our favorite cheeses.  Casey Foote from St. James will present the cheeses and Linda Smith from Republic will present the bubbles. Limited to 20 people, $25, reservations required, call 304.0635.  This event is at Swirl.

Friday Free for All, November 18, 6-8pm
David Sobiesk joins us tonight with some great selections from Spain! No reservations required!  Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Wednesday Night Flites, Festive Holiday Wines, November 23th, 6-8pm
Wines are TBA, but I'm secretly hoping for an Amarone...I'll keep you posted!

Closed Thanksgiving, Thursday November 24th

Friday Free for All, November 25, 6-8pm
Join us for our regularly scheduled tasting of 4 free wines! No reservations required!  Check out our Facebook page on Friday to see what we'll be serving!

Wednesday Night Flites, Special Guest Antonio Molesini, November 30th, 6-8pm
Wines are TBA, but I'm secretly hoping for an Amarone...I'll keep you posted!

Merci Beaucoup!  2009 Moises "Mes Amis" Pinot Noir Release, December 1, 6:30 to 8pm
Join James Moises and friends as they pour bottles of his newly released Oregon Pinot Noir that has a special New Orleans story.  Click here for more info, Mes Amis

An Evening in Bordeaux with Yvon Mau Imports, Tuesday December 6, 6-8pm
Join Warren Helman for this special tasting of Chateau wines from one of the world’s most famous regions.  Warren spends a lot of time in Bordeaux seeking out surprising bargains on top quality reds and whites and he'll be sharing first hand knowledge about vintages and producers.  $12, reservations are required, call 304.0635. 

Creminelli Salami, Italian Wine & Cheese, December 8th, 6:30-8pm
Join Cristiano Creminelli, a premier producer of artisan cured meats at St. James Cheese for a unique night of pairing wine with cheese and the Creminelli products. This is a don't miss event for all of you hard core carnivores!  Antonio may not be able to attend because of the date change, if so I will present the wines using my best Italian accent :) This event is at St. James, call 899-4737 for pricing and reservations. 

Antonio's Italy

We had so much fun on our tour of Tuscany, we're working on another....May 26-June 2, 2012.  Copies of our itinerary and pricing can be viewed here:  Antonio's Italy

Swirl and Savor
Our wine and food blog...here are a few from the past 2 weeks, but there are lots more at swirlandsavor.
This Week
Merci Beaucoup, 2009 Moises Mes Amis Release!
"It was March of 2003, and local doc James Moises had just one week to turn his newly acquired 10 acres of land into a vineyard.  The eternal optimist, he didn't think twice about trying to handle the back breaking task with just two other guys, but luckily his friends back home thought better.  So they came to Oregon, eight New Orleanians who didn't know a thing about planting a vineyard, but wanted to help their friend accomplish his dream..." Click here for the post, Mes Amis 

 
Antonio's Italy, A Wine and Culinary Vacation in Tuscany

"Join Swirl Wine Bar & Market in May 2012 as Antonio Molesini, Italian Wine Specialist and native of Tuscany, takes us on a very special wine and cultural tour of his homeland.  We’ll be living like locals, spending a week in a historic villa in Cortona and visiting Antonio’s favorite wineries, restaurants, hill towns and wine bars."  Click here for the itinerary and pricing: Antonio's Italy 

Fatma and Fatoush
"I received an email from our friend Fatma the other day letting us know that her new restaurant, Fatoush in the New Orleans Healing Center, was now quietly serving a full menu.  We were in the neighborhood delivering some wine for a wedding Saturday afternoon, so we decided to stop by and check out the progress."  Click here for the post:  Fatma & Fatoush

Sundays are the Best

"I cherish my Sundays, especially in the "winter" here in New Orleans.  It's the only day that neither of us walk into the shop to do anything unless we absolutely have to, or if we need wine...  So tonight is a good night, I've spent the day writing, reading, taking a ride on the very windy lakefront and now Kerry is in the kitchen putting together a fabulous roasted beet salad..." click here for the post: Sundays

Last Week 

When Life Gives you Lemons
"A few years ago Kerry and I decided to take advantage of our subtropical climate and plant a few citrus trees.  Our tiny yard doesn't allow for much so we planted an orange tree in the front yard, a key lime tree in a pot on the front steps and a meyer lemon in the back.  We have about 30 big, beautiful and incredibly juicy lemons that are, of course, all ready to be picked."  Click here for the post:  Lemons 

Savory Pumpkin Ravioli

"I managed to get out of town for a few days this weekend and took a quick trip to visit my family in Pennsylvania.  The cool fall weather and changing leaves have been a refreshing change from the still way to hot temperatures in New Orleans!  I always like to cook something special when I'm here and the abundance of autumn veggies and gourds inspired me to make homemade Pumpkin Ravioli."  Click here for the recipe, Pumpkin Ravioli


Hope to See You Soon!
Beth, Kerry, Michelle, Matt, Michael and Sangi

Merci Beaucoup! 2009 Moises Mes Amis Pinot Noir Release

It was March of 2003, and local doc James Moises had just one week to turn his newly acquired 10 acres of land into a vineyard.  The eternal optimist, he didn't think twice about trying to handle the back breaking task with just two other guys, but luckily his friends back home thought better.  So they came to Oregon, eight New Orleanians who didn't know a thing about planting a vineyard, but wanted to help their friend accomplish his dream.   In the cold pouring rain they worked to mark the rows, pound the posts, drill the holes and plant the vines.  They worked from sun up to sun down in mud up to their knees and they accomplished their goal: 10,000 vines in the ground in one week. Pretty serious business for a bunch of amateurs!

In the fall of 2009 James was able to harvest the vineyard for the first time and he named the bottling "Mes Amis" as a tribute to those who put their lives on hold for a week to help a friend.  And now after two years of bottle and oak aging, he's ready to let his friends and you, literally taste the fruits of their labor and try his 2009 Moises Mes Amis.

Come to Swirl on December 1st to hear the story, meet the friends who were there when it all started, and of course taste the wine!  We'll be pouring lots of Mes Amis for free from 6:00 to 7:30, and all of James' other Pinots, including the fabulous 2008 releases will be available at the bar for $9 a glass.  If you've ever been to one of James' release parties at Swirl, you know your glass is never empty and the store is always full...

Sundays are the Best

I cherish my Sundays, especially in the "winter" here in New Orleans.  It's the only day that neither of us walk into the shop to do anything unless we absolutely have to, or if we need wine...

So tonight is a good night, I've spent the day writing, reading, taking a ride on the very windy lakefront and now Kerry is in the kitchen putting together a fabulous roasted beet salad.  I'm about to saute some sweet potatoes from the farmers market in butter and fresh sage from the garden.  Madeleine Peyroux is singing softly in the living room, the front door is open, sending in a wonderful breeze and the sound of the chimes on the front porch.  There's a bottle of 1998 Manzoni Barolo Vigna d'la Roul breathing on the table and a few steaks that are ready to go on the grill.  Harley the cat is contently watching all of the goings on from his perch on the sofa, while Sangi patiently waits in the kitchen knowing that steak means good things for good dogs.

And I have to say that at this moment, on this particular Sunday, life feels pretty damn wonderful.  I hope you all are enjoying yours...

Kerry's Roasted Beet Salad
Take 2 large golden beets and roast in the oven at 375 degrees for about an hour, or until soft.  Peel off the outer skin and cut in half.  Thinly slice the beet halves and set aside.  Take a couple of handfuls of really fresh mixed greens and lay them over a platter, place the slices of beets over the greens.  Slice up 1/2 of a vidala onion and sprinkle over the beets and then cover with fresh micro greens.  Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper and then drizzle a little white wine vinegar followed by really good quality olive oil and top off with small bits of fresh goats cheese, and enjoy your Sunday salad!

Antonio's Italy, Wine and Culinary Vacations, Itinerary May 2012

 

Antonio’s Italy

May 26-June 2, 2012

Join Swirl Wine Bar & Market in May 2012 as Antonio Molesini, Italian Wine Specialist and native of Tuscany, takes us on a very special wine and cultural tour of his homeland.  We’ll be living like locals, spending a week in a historic villa in Cortona and visiting Antonio’s favorite wineries, restaurants, hill towns and wine bars. With its centralized location, Cortona is the perfect base from which to explore both Umbria and Tuscany, allowing easy access to Orvieto, Montepulciano, Chianti, San Gimignano, Florence, Lake Trasimeno and more. 

Sorry, This Trip is Full!

Fatma and Fatoush

I received an email from our friend Fatma the other day letting us know that her new restaurant, Fatoush in the New Orleans Healing Center, was now quietly serving a full menu.  We were in the neighborhood delivering some wine for a wedding Saturday afternoon, so we decided to stop by and check out the progress. 

As we enter the restaurant from the Healing Center, we literally run into Fatma.  Dressed in a skirt, wedge heeled boots, stripped blouse and a lacy neck scarf, she is charging out of the kitchen, cordless power drill in hand assisting with the installation of the speakers for the newly installed sound system.  She hands the drill over to the guys, greets us with hugs and kisses, grabs a few menus and brings us to a table in the newly opened dining room. Ah the ever changing hats of a restaurateur!  But she actually had time to visit with us a while so we were able to chat a bit about her latest project.

Having been on the New Orleans restaurant scene for almost 25 years, Fatma actually came out of retirement specifically because of the Healing Center.  The concept of the healing center was developed post Katrina as a new model for community centers, "specially created to help, heal, and empower surrounding neighborhoods on a civic, social, economic, environmental, intellectual, and spiritual level". The developers have taken an abandoned eye sore and turned it into an artful, brightly colored and nicely landscaped complex that houses a holistic blend of businesses and services all meant to feed the body, mind and soul. The well designed space gives you easy access to a cooperative grocery, street university, fitness center, book store, yoga studio, green business incubator, healing arts collective, performance hall, interfaith center, and Fatma's restaurant, Fatoush.

Dining room at Fatoush

Chef in the open kitchen

Our original intention was to have a cup of coffee and a piece of their delicious homemade baklava, but after talking with Fatma about the menu, we decided to try a few small bites.  A really nice mix of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, there is a lot to choose from at really affordable prices. The most expensive item on the list is the grilled lamb chops at $15.99, and considering the quality of ingredients they are using, this place is a truly a bargain.  Focused on using local and organic products, they also use free range chicken and meats that are Kosher, Halal Cut, and grass fed from the Gonsoulin Farm in New Iberia. 

Lahmacun

 They have a Turkish chef, Hakki Erce, so we wanted to try some of the traditional dishes ordering the Lahmacun and Imama Bayildi. To drink we decided on Turkish black tea that comes from Fatma's mother's tea farm in Turkey, which by the way is complimentary and you can drink it free all day long if you so desire.  They first send their fresh, warm, organic house made pita bread accompanied by a deliciously rich dip of sundried tomatoes, kalamta olives, sumac and olive oil.  Again a complimentary item with your meal, I promise that once you taste it you will devour every last bite of it before your next item arrives.  Next up for us was the Lahmacun ($3.50), a sort of Turkish flat bread topped with freshly ground, spiced beef and lamb which you fold and put in red onion, parsley and sliced tomatoes.  House made flat bread and fresh ingredients made this a simple but really tasty, healthy dish. 

Imama Bayildi

The Imama Bayildi ($4.99) arrived as we were finishing the flat bread and was a beautiful slice of pan fried eggplant topped with a mix of sauteed onion, tomato and garlic accompanied by rice and fresh lettuce and tomato.  A sort of Turkish take on caponata, the eggplant was perfect fork cutting texture and the flavors of the topping, balanced and again prepared with all fresh ingredients.

Turkish tea and baklava

Well I still had that bakalava on my mind and even with as full as I was beginning to feel, we got our tea refilled and put in an order.  An order ($4.95) happens to be three pieces of the best melt in your mouth homemade pastry, nuts and honeyed syrup you've ever tasted, so beware because you will be licking your fingers and your plate before it's all over....We can't wait to come back for a full dinner and try those lamb chops!

The New Orleans Healing Center

We find the whole scene refreshing, from the healthy food at Fatoush, the organic food market, the services and other business just give this place a really welcoming vibe.  If you haven't been yet, you need to check out the New Orleans Healing Center.  And Fatoush is a must for those who like healthy food, prepared fresh with local ingredients and the best of intentions! 

Fatma & Bob

 Great job Fatma, you've done it again! And yes, we are already talking about a wine dinner....

When Life Gives You Lemons...

A few years ago Kerry and I decided to take advantage of our subtropical climate and plant a few citrus trees.  Our tiny yard doesn't allow for much so we planted an orange tree in the front yard, a key lime tree in a pot on the front steps and a meyer lemon in the back.  Well the orange tree has been struggling since day one, too much wind, fighting with the grass for nutrients, sadly we may have to take it up soon.  The key lime has given us enough to make some great Sunday night cocktails but it is the Meyer lemon tree that has really thrived this season.  We have about 30 big, beautiful and incredibly juicy lemons that are, of course, all ready to be picked.

Meyers are different than regular lemons.  They were identified in 1908 by Frank Meyer and are thought to be a cross regular lemon and a Chinese mandarin.  They are more round, have a beautiful smooth but thin, deep yellowy colored skin with a slightly orange tint. Meyers have a wonderful tangy aroma and are sweeter and less acidic than the standard lemon give you twice as much juice.

So in wondering what to do with all of these lemons, I found this great post from the LA Times on 100 Things to do with Meyer Lemons. And while many of the recipes are tempting, the one I may do first is the Meyer Lemon and Cardamon Ice Cream...anyone have an ice cream maker I can borrow?

This Week at Swirl Wine Bar & Market

Happenings Meet Winemaker Matt Wenk, Two Hands Winery While our Friday Free For All tastings of 4 free wines still draw the biggest crowds, our Wednesday Nite Flites give me a good excuse to open up some really special, higher end wines.  Last week it was producer Orin Swift's new wine "Abstract", there was also that beautiful 1997 Manzoni Barolo a few weeks back and this week we are really excited to have winemaker Matt Wenk from Two Hands Wines in Australia pouring a few of his gorgeous new releases including his picture series Cabernet and Shiraz both of which retail for around $30 The press on this winery alone makes this tasting worth checking out.  Wine Spectator's Top 100 for 2010 picked the Two Hands Bella's Garden as their #2 wine and awarded it 94 points.   Two Hands gets consistent 90+ reviews from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, James Halliday's Wine Companion, Wine Spectator and the UK Decanter magazine for the entire lineup of wines and we want to see if they live up to all of the hype!  We haven't picked the third wine yet for the tasting as we're waiting to see the others that are to arrive this week.  Winemaker Matt Wenk will be signing bottles (think great, early holiday gifts...) and talking about the wines.  You can check out a video here with Matt on Winemaking at Two Hands Winery.  We don't take reservations for the flites, it is a first come, first serve basis, so just pull up a seat at the bar and pick up your boarding pass! The flite is $12, cheese plates ($12) and charcuterie plates ($10) will be available as well. *Up next week:  Antonio Molesini with some "super" wines from his native Tuscany! Halloween Festivities in the Neighborhood Faubourg St. John is hopping this weekend with Halloween events!-Friday Free For All Wine Tasting, 6-8pm.  Wear a costume, we'll enter you into a drawing to win a $25 Swirl gift certificate!  Drawing will be at 7:30, must be present to win! Plus closing night of Mitchell Long's show and taste 4 great wines for free!-Voodoo Music Experience in City Park, Friday, Saturday and Sunday -Spooky Saturday at Swirl:  Wear a costume and buy one get one free at the bar on your first drink! -Voodoo on the Bayou:  Faubourg St. John Neighborhood Association's annual Halloween bash at the Pitot House on the Bayou.  The event will feature live music by “Los Po-Boy-Citos” (winners of the 2011 Big Easy Award for Best Latin Band), open bar, food from some of New Orleans most beloved restaurants including Café Degas, Santa Fe, Nonna Mia and Angelo Brocato’s. Buy your tickets at Swirl, $40 each! Wednesday Nite Flites, October 26, 6-8pm We are really excited to have winemaker Matt Wenk from Two Hands Wines in Australia pouring a few of his gorgeous new releases including his picture series Cabernet and Shiraz both of which retail for around $30.  We haven't picked the third wine yet for the tasting as we're waiting to see if a few others arrive this week as planned.  Winemaker Matt Wenk will be signing bottles (think great, early holiday gifts...) and talking about the wines.  We don't take reservations for the flites, it is a first come, first serve basis, so just pull up a seat at the bar and pick up your boarding pass! The flite is $12, cheese plates ($12) and charcuterie plates ($10) will be available as well. Friday Free for All, October 28, 6-8pm Wear a costume, we'll enter you into a drawing to win a $25 Swirl gift certificate!  Drawing will be at 7:30, must be present to win! Plus closing night of Mitchell Long's show and taste 4 great wines for free! Spooky Saturday at Swirl October 29, All Day! Wear a costume and buy one get one free at the bar on your first drink! Antonio's Italy We had so much fun on our tour of Tuscany, we're working on another....May 26-June 2, 2012.  I'll be releasing our itinerary in early November! Our trips are an intimate, one of a kind experience where we take 8 people on a wine and food "vacation" in Tuscany with Italian Wine Specialist Antonio Molesini.  Previous trip participants get first pick on those 8 spots, so I'll keep you posted on pricing and availability! Swirl and Savor Our wine and food blog...here are a few from the past 2 weeks, but there are lots more at swirlandsavor. New Posts Savory Pumpkin Ravioli "I managed to get out of town for a few days this weekend and took a quick trip to visit my family in Pennsylvania.  The cool fall weather and changing leaves have been a refreshing change from the still way to hot temperatures in New Orleans!  I always like to cook something special when I'm here and the abundance of autumn veggies and gourds inspiried me to make homemade Pumpkin Ravioli."  Click here for the recipe, Pumpkin Ravioli Antipasti for Nic's Birthday  "Our friend Nicole celebrated a birthday yesterday and we were lucky enough to be invited to dinner.  Other friends in from Atlanta were doing the cooking, so I offered to bring some appetizers and of course, the wine. We've been eating so much Indian food lately, I was happy to dive back into Italy and do some real traditional bites.  All of these are simple and take little preparation but pack a lot of flavor.  The key, as in all good cooking but especially Italian, is fresh, good quality ingredients."  Click here for my post on Antipasti Finding Diamonds in the Rough "While I do love tasting wine with our wholesalers, importers and winery reps, it is not as romantic as everyone thinks when they come in and see us gathered around the bar or the back table with open wine bottles and half filled glasses, envisioning my day spent doing nothing but sipping wine and lazily sharing stories with others fortunate enough to be in this industry.  It's work;  I stop what I'm doing, dirty lots of glasses that we then have to clean, make small talk with people I'd sometimes rather not and occasionally taste bad or mediocre wine often with silly, kitschy labels that oh so obviously don't belong in our store..."  Click here for my post on Diamonds in the Rough Perfect Picnic Picks in Faubourg St. John "While it's not quite as cool as we'd like it to be yet, we have gotten a little break from the sweltering heat of the summer.  With that ever so slight breath of fall weather comes the perfect time to have a picnic.  And we just happen to live and work in a neighborhood that has great little spots to pull out the blanket, pop open your favorite bottle, add a little cheese and salami and you are set!"  Click here to read my post Perfect Picnic Picks Older PostsThe Savory and Exotic Cuisine of Southern India   "A friend of mine remarked the other day that I must be too busy to cook lately since I've not been posting any recipes.  Ah not true I said, we've just been delving into my other favorite cuisine in the last few weeks, Indian.  I fell in love with Indian cooking when my niece Rika joined our family about 10 years ago. As much as I love Mediterranean style food, the exotic spices of India offer something refreshingly different." You can view the full post here, Southern India.  Vegetable Sambar "We absolutely love this dish and eat it at least twice a week right now.  Delicously healthy and exotically spiced, I could probably eat it every day and not get tired of it...Sambar is type of Indian stew made with vegetables, dahl (legumes) and sambar spice powder.  Making this recipe will require a trip to the International Market in Metairie or any store that specializes in Indian spices and products." Click here for the recipe, Vegetable Sambar The Intriguing, Complex and Delicious Wines of Antonio Caggiano "My first introduction to the wines of Caggiano was in the fabulous "Ristorante Il Ritrovo" in the little hilltop town of Montepertuso overlooking Positano and the Bay of Salerno.  The restaurant was recommended by Chiara, the owner of our villa, as well as the Slow Food Guide to places to eat in Italy.  Chiara's brother Francesco oversees the wine program at the restaurant and during our recent visit, chose the wines for our dinner. All of his selections were fantastic, but the wine that really stood our for me was the 2010 Caggiano Bechar Fiano di Avellino. All I could think of was how I was going to get this wine in the store so that I could enjoy it on a regular basis and of course share it with our customers!" Click here for the full post, Caggiano. Pasta with Fresh Lemon, Cream and Chanterelles I saw a recipe in Lidia Bastianich's cookbook and have just been waiting for the right opportunity to make it.  Hers uses lemon juice and zest with rich heavy cream with a fresh tagliatelle pasta.  But when I was shopping at the Hollygrove Market yesterday I got one of the few remaining bags freshly foraged chanterelles and decided they would be perfect addition to her recipe..." Click here for Chanterelles Hope to See You Soon! Beth, Kerry, Michelle, Matt, Michael and Sangi Swirl Wine Bar & Market 3143 Ponce de Leon Street New Orleans, LA 70119 504.304.0635

Savory Pumpkin Ravioli in Sage and Butter

I managed to get out of town for a few days this weekend and took a quick trip to visit my family in Pennsylvania.  The cool fall weather and changing leaves have been a refreshing change from the still way to hot temperatures in New Orleans!  I always like to cook something special when I'm here and the abundance of autumn veggies and gourds inspired me to make homemade Pumpkin Ravioli.  My sous chef Rika and I spent the afternoon on Sunday making fresh pasta and while they weren't too sure about pumpkin and sage together, the meal was a hit even with the most picky eaters.

My standard fresh pasta recipe is Lidia Bastianich's from her book Lidia's Italian Table. It is simple, delicate and comes out perfect every time I've made it. I use my Kitchen Aid Mixer or the initial blending and then add the pasta roller attachments  when it is time to roll it out. When possible, I like to use farm fresh eggs (the fresher the better) that we buy at the Crescent City Farmer's Market. Click here for my step by step instructions for making fresh pasta, Pasta all'Uovo, Basic Egg Pasta.

Once you have gotten to the point in the dough recipe where you "Roll the dough into a smooth ball. Place the dough in a small bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or up to 1 day in the refrigerator, before rolling and shaping the pasta. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour before rolling and shaping.", you can now make the filling while the dough is resting.

Makes 6 generous servings

For the filling:
    16 oz. ricotta cheese (about 2 cups)
    16 oz. pumpkin puree
    1 egg
    1 teaspoon Kosher salt
    Freshly grated nutmeg

For the sauce (to dress about 1/3 of the ravioli):
    1 stick unsalted butter
    20 sage leaves (plus additional for garnish, if desired)
    Handful Almond Slivers
   1/4 cup pine nuts
    Kosher salt
    Parmesan shavings

 While the pasta dough rests, combine the ricotta, pumpkin, egg, Kosher salt, and some freshly ground nutmeg in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a silicon mat and lightly flour.

 Once the dough has rested, use a pasta machine to roll the pasta out into thin, wide sheets. I did not have my ravioli mold with me, so we used a juice glass for round ravioli.  I like to lightly mark the pasta sheets with the glass before I spoon on the filling.  Place spoons of the filling in the circles on the dough, and using a small brush, lightly dampen the edges with water to help seal.  Top with another sheet of pasta dough.  Using the glass, press down through both sheets to cut, pinch the edges with your fingers, dust with flour and place on the baking sheet.  At this point you can cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to a day before you do the final steps.

The pine nuts and almonds are a garnish and need to be roasted/toasted until they darken slightly, be careful not to burn them.  Once you've done this, grind about 2/3 of the mixture, leaving the other third whole, combine the two and set aside until you're ready to garnish.

To prepare the ravioli, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Boil for about 5 minutes, in batches, pushing the ravioli back down into the boiling water with a wooden spoon as it floats to the top.  Drain the ravioli and set aside.

Meanwhile, brown the butter in a large skillet.  Add the sage and cook for a few extra minutes. Transfer the ravioli to the pan and toss gently in the sauce.  Serve immediately topped with the nut mixture and some shaved Parmesan cheese.

Perfect Picnic Picks in Faubourg St. John

While it's not quite as cool as we'd like it to be yet, we have gotten a little break from the sweltering heat of the summer.  With that ever so slight breath of fall weather comes the perfect time to have a picnic.  And we just happen to live and work in a neighborhood that has great little spots to pull out the blanket, pop open your favorite bottle, add a little cheese and salami and you are set!

Fortier Park

My favorite spots include the tables in Fortier Park (across the street from the shop).  The tables double as chess boards so you can play a leisurely game while you sip on some wine.

Banks of Bayou St. John

Bayou Saint John has many wide green spaces to throw down a blanket but I particularly like the spot by the Cabrini walking bridge under the big oak tree.



City Park offers so many secluded, hidden nooks or more populated spaces for great people watching.  I personally love the area under the old, sprawling oak tree with the huge wind chimes near the big lake.  The sounds coming from those giant chimes automatically put you in a serene, relaxed state while having lots to occupy the rest of your senses as you can watch the boats on the lake and walkers on the path or feed the ducks some of your bread.


And of course we have everything you need at the shop for you outing.  Perfect sparkling picnic wines like the Avissi Prosecco ($14.99) or Ca de Medici Lambrusco ($12.99) go great with cheese and are a festive, inexpensive way to start your feast.  Refreshing palate cleansing whites like the 2010 Frisk Prickly Dry Riesling ($9.99) the 2010 Domaine Pichot Vouvray ($17.50) or the 2010 Taburno Falanghina ($17.99) are a joy with cheese and antipasti and just plain fun to drink.  Lighter style reds like the 2010 Terre Nere Etna Rosso ($18.50), the 2010 Pierre Chermette Beaujolais ($15.99) or the 2009 Tilia Bonarda ($9.99) have enough fruit and weight to accompany both your meats and cheeses.

Now onto the what you can fill that picnic basket with...a nice rotating selection of artisan cheese from St. James Cheese are freshly restocked weekly. Our best sellers include the triple cream wonder Brillat Savarin, the nutty almost butterscotchy Prima Donna Aged Gouda, the crumbly, tangy goats milk Miticana, the semi-soft, buttery Appalachian and of course the ever popular sheeps milk Manchego.  We usually hand select 12-15 cheeses per week to fill the cooler and sample on our cheese plates at the bar.

Cured meats like Columbus Cacciatore Salami, Palacios Chorizo, Creminelli Sopresatta or maybe you'd like to try the new to-die-for house made duck pastrami from St. James or their house made country style pate?  And since pate is not complete with cornichon, we have those and a selection of olives, pesto, crackers and fresh Boulangerie breads Thursday-Saturday.  And we are crossing our fingers that very soon Cheryl Scripter will have her new location of Bittersweet Confections up and running so we can restock our chocolates.

So what are you waiting for?   Come over pick up your picnic accouterments, grab a blanket and enjoy this weather while we can!  Need a few cups or napkins?  Want to pair a specific wine and cheese? Just ask, we'll do whatever we can to help you have the perfect picnic!

Antipasti for Nic's Birthday

Our friend Nicole celebrated a birthday yesterday and we were lucky enough to be invited to dinner.  Other friends in from Atlanta were doing the cooking, so I offered to bring some appetizers and of course, the wine.

We've been eating so much Indian food lately, I was happy to dive back into Italy and do some real traditional bites.  All of these are simple and take little preparation but pack a lot of flavor.  The key, as in all good cooking but especially Italian, is fresh, good quality ingredients.

Fichi con Formaggio e Speck

The first was Fichi con Formaggio e Speck (figs with cheese and speck).  Speck is a smoked, cured meat from the Alto Adige region of Italy that looks similar to prosciutto as it is from the same cut of meat, the hind leg of the pig.  To make speck, a boned pork leg is cured in salt, and spices like laurel and juniper, then intermittently slow-smoked, using pine or juniper wood for several months. I get it from St. James Cheese, but I'm sure Whole Foods probably carries it as well.  If you can't find it, you can substitute Prosciutto, but be sure it is freshly sliced.

Take fresh figs and slice in half length wise.  Add a small spoonful of a fresh goats cheese, I used one of the Cypress Grove Chevre from the shop, a sprinkle of chopped, fresh rosemary, a dollop of honey and short piece of speck (about a third of a slice) scrunched up and sat atop the cheese. A wonderful bite of salty, sweet, creamy deliciousness, I served these with the Avissi Prosecco for a nice little starter...

Grilled lemon leaves with mozzarella, Da Adolfo Positano

Next up was our first attempt at recreating one of our favorite appetizers from our trip to the Amalfi Coast.  Due to the abundance of lemon trees and the fact that Campania is THE home of the Mozzarella di Bufala DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta, or Protected Designation of Origin), Foglie di Limone alla Griglia con Mozzarella (Grilled Lemon Leaves with Mozzarella) is on the menu of almost every restaurant in the region, but really never seen elsewhere in Italy or anywhere for that matter.


As simple as this is, the key is fresh lemon leaves and good quality mozzarella.  When grilled for a quick 30 seconds, give or take a few, the lemon leaves impart the most delicious citrus flavor to the mozzarella.  But the older the leaves, the less flavor you are going to get.  We have a Meyer Lemon tree in the backyard so I picked a handful of the biggest leaves I could find just an hour or so before we would use them.

Hand tossed mozzarella and fresh lemon leaves

 I got some really nice hand tossed mozzarella from Whole Foods that was not as good as the buffalo version, but the fact than it was handmade gave it a really nice flavor.  The cheap, stringy, everyday mozzarella you buy in the grocery will just not give you the same outcome.  Again, the food you make is only as good as your ingredients...


All you do is cut about 1/4" thick slices of mozzarella, place it on a lemon leaves, and then put over indirect heat on a grill using a grill pan to place the leaves in.  It literally takes about 30 seconds for the cheese to start melting.  But be careful, our fire was too hot and our first attempt, while still tasted delicious, did not get to spend enough time on the fire.  Guess I'll just need to practice this one more...

San Marzano tomatoes on the vine @ Villa Le Sirene, Positano

We also needed the grill for our Bruschetta al Pomidoro (Tomato Bruschetta), another staple on the Amalfi coast since Campania is also the DOP of San Marzano tomatoes.  You know, those delicious, deeply flavored plum tomatoes that we are only fortunate enough to get in cans.  But a quick lesson on bruschetta; it is pronounced bru-SKE-ta and bruschetta refers to the bread, not the topping.  The best bread for bruschetta is a stale, dense loaf like a sour dough or country style bread. The bread is cut into slices, grilled, and brushed with good quality olive oil then rubbed with fresh garlic cloves.  There are many recipes you can make to top your bruschetta, but the pomidoro is a classic.

To make the topping:
-4 medium sized ripe tomatoes cut into 1/4" dice
-2 cloves of garlic minced
-10 fresh basil leaves torn into small pieces
-1/2 to 1 teaspoon coarse salt
-few turns of the pepper grinder
-a pinch or two of peperoncino
-2 tablespoons of good quality extra virgin olive oil

For the bruschetta:
-12 slices of dense, stale bread, no more than 1" thick, and about 3-4" long
-olive oil 
-1 clove of garlic cut in half

Mix the topping ingredients, stir to combine and set aside.  Using indirect heat on a grill (again ours was a bit too hot...) quickly toast the bread slices until the edges get slightly dark.  Remove from heat, brush on some olive oil and rub with the clove of garlic.  Add the topping and consume immediately!

I served the lemon leaves and bruschetta side by side and poured the perfect wine, the Caggiano Devon Greco di Tufo.  An unbelievable wine that brought our all the best flavors of the dishes!

Now the Atlanta cooks were at the grill and in the kitchen, making a fabulous beef tenderloin, gorgeous salad of avocado, fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, rosemary roasted potatoes and grilled asparagus.  We brought the 1997 Manzoni San Stefano Barolo to have with the meat, and they were about as perfect together as a pairing could be! 

We ate like Italians, slowly, taking time to savor each delicious bite of food, sip of gorgeous wine and enjoy each other's company.  A truly delightful evening, thank you Nic for inviting us to celebrate your birthday!

Finding Diamonds in the Rough

While I do love tasting wine with our wholesalers, importers and winery reps, it is not as romantic as everyone thinks when they come in and see us gathered around the bar or the back table with open wine bottles and half filled glasses, envisioning my day spent doing nothing but sipping wine and lazily sharing stories with others fortunate enough to be in this industry...

It's work;  I stop what I'm doing, dirty lots of glasses that we then have to clean, make small talk with people I'd sometimes rather not and occasionally taste bad or mediocre wine often with silly, kitschy labels that oh so obviously don't belong in our store.  And then there is the very unromantic but necessary spitting of every sip of wine I drink (well almost every...) because to do this job well, you have to keep your palate clean and your brain clear so you don't make some stupid decision to buy too much of a not so great wine.

Tasting Dumangin Rose required cheese...

But there are many wholesalers that come in who are a joy to taste with; who know what I like at the price points I want and who are excited about the wine in their portfolios.  Of course it's the European stuff that makes me happy with wines from Italy being at the top of the list.  Obscure varieties always pique my curiosity and wacky winemakers who use a non traditional approach to their craft, ah this is when my job is fun! But unfortunately those are not the norm...

So what am I looking for in those sometimes 40 plus wines that I taste in a day?  The first thing I taste for is balance; Is there too much fruit or not enough?  Is the wine soft and elegant or just flabby with not enough structure?  Is the acid present but not overpowering?  Is the oak in check or overwhelming the fruit?  Is the alcohol level noticeable on my nose and palate or well integrated?  After I quickly assess all of those things in few sips that I then spit out into the bucket, I want to know the price.  What is the quality to price ratio in my terms?  Is it in the grocery stores or limited to fine wine shops and restaurants?  If it fits into all of my criteria, then I need to see if I have a spot on the shelves for it now or should I pick it up later? And most importantly, is it a wine I could drink on any given day, because if it is not good enough for me, I'm not going to sell it to you. Period.

Out of all the wines I taste in a week, which usually ranges between 50-100, probably only about 5-10 will actually make it on to our shelves one day.  I use the same process when buying a $5 wine as I do a $50 bottle and feel good about everything that comes into the store, from the cheap and tasty rack to the indulge section and all the bottles in between.

So all of this is leading to finding a diamond in the rough yesterday when tasting with Linda from Republic and Holly from Hess Selections.  While the Hess wines are not something I carry, not so much from a quality standpoint but due to their obvious presence in grocery stores, they also represent some other products from South America and South Africa that I tasted.  The standout was the Glen Carlou Chardonnay from Paarl, South Africa.  At a whopping retail price of $14.99, this wine is a steal for those who like oak, but find many Californian Chards too over the top.  A very balanced wine, with nice acidity, the perfect amount of French oak, beautiful fruit yet elegant on the palate, this wine will be in soon, (not enough room on the shelves this week) and is something I could and will drink any day of the week.  Lovely!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Review, 89 points:  2010 Glen Carlou Chardonnay - Entirely fermented in barrel with 30% new oak, the 2010 Chardonnay has an attractive nose of beeswax, honeysuckle and apple-blossom that carries the oak well. The palate is medium-bodied with fine waxy texture, good acidity with a light, elegant, caramel-tinged finish. This is good value South African Chardonnay. Drink now-2018+

Established in 1985, Glen Carlou is one of Paarl’s most familiar names and has been part of Hess Family Estates since 2003.Winemaker Arco Laarman oversees a portfolio that ranges from the entry-level “Tortoise Hill” range to Prestige single-vineyard releases. There is certainly consistency here and even their top-level wines are reasonably priced.

Savory and Exotic Cuisine of Southern India

my niece Rika

A friend of mine remarked the other day that I must be too busy to cook lately since I've not been posting any recipes.  Ah not true I said, we've just been delving into my other favorite cuisine in the last few weeks, Indian.  I fell in love with Indian cooking when my niece Rika joined our family about 10 years ago. As much as I love Mediterranean style food, the exotic spices of India offer something refreshingly different. But, I'm not talking about your generic curries and tandoori dishes, because as things usually go for me, my love is with the cuisine of south.  The southern tip of India, in the province of Kerala as well as neighboring Goa and Tamil Nadu, is an interesting and unique culinary pocket shaped by climate, geography and religion.

The tropical coast of Kerala stretches along the Arabian Sea bringing an abundance of fish, shellfish, and coconuts while the fragrant curry leaves, mustard seeds and black pepper of the region distinctly flavor the cuisine.  Native cinnamon, ginger, and turmeric are also widely used and the combinations of spices, legumes and vegetables can be utterly intoxicating.  Vastly different from the more commonly known dishes from the north, the south offers a lighter, fresher alternative that is less oily and has no cream at all and unfortunately, a style of cuisine that most people know nothing about.

And Just as Lidia Bastianich's books are my go to reference for many of my Italian meals, Madhur Jaffery cookbooks are a must for anyone wanting to jump into Indian food.  In particular my favorite and most well worn is "Flavors of India" where she takes you on a journey through many regions of India, exploring the different cuisines and the influences that shape them.  The other book that I use is called "Curried Favors, Family Recipes from Southern India" by Maya Kaimal MacMillan.

The key to cooking these recipes is the spices.  We are fortunate to have access to a few markets that basically have everything needed to create an authentic south India meal.  The best for hard to find ingredients is the International Market in Metairie.  While a little funky and sometimes intimidating, it is THE source in area for spices, dhals (legumes), rice, curry leaves, tamarind, housewares and everything you would need to prepare any of the recipes in either book.

Aamti - Maharashtrian Lentils, one of our staples

To answer Mary's question, yes, both Kerry and I have been cooking a lot of Indian food lately, but it sometimes harder for me to write about because of the mysterious ingredients and cooking techniques that can be difficult to describe.  But I'm going to do my best, starting with a simple and delicious sambar, a spicy stew of legumes and vegetables that will knock your socks off if you take the time to get the right ingredients to make the spice mix.

Coconut and Green Chilli Prawns

Mulligatawny Soup

So if you are feeling adventurous, check out my recipe, Vegetable Sambar...another staple our house!

Vegetable Sambar

Vegetable Sambar

 

We absolutely love this dish and eat it at least twice a week right now.  Delicously healthy and exotically spiced, I could probably eat it every day and not get tired of it...Sambar is type of Indian stew made with vegetables, dahl (legumes) and sambar spice powder.  Making this recipe will require a trip to the International Market in Metairie or any store that specializes in Indian spices and products.  One of the must have ingredients for southern Indian food is fresh curry leaves.  Having no relation to the mixture of curry spice powder, these are small, fragrant, green leaves from the kari tree that are available in Indian food markets.  They usually come in a bag and can be stored in your refrigerator for about 2 weeks.  Some recipes say that you can substitute bay leaves but that totally changes the flavor of the dish so I would say if you can't find curry leaves, omit them entirely.  But as I said, most Indian markets have them.

Curry leaves

The first step in this recipe is the most time consuming because you have to make your own sambar powder.  But once you do this it can be store for a few weeks in a jar and used to make the sambar stew recipe at least 4 times.  But I should warn you that this is a spicy dish!  On a scale of 1-10 I would probably put it at a 7 in terms of spicy heat.  We love hot spicy foods, so I don't even think about the heat when I'm eating this, but I know we are propably not the norm...

Sambar Powder

This recipe is from Madhur Jaffrey, with my only addition being a piece of cinnamon stick.

Sambar Powder

    * 1 tsp. vegetable oil (I use coconut oil, available at whole foods)
    * 5 Tbs. coriander seeds
    * 1 tsp. whole mustard seeds
    * 1 tsp. moong dal
    * 1/2 tsp. chana dal
    * 1/2 Tbs. urad dal
    * 1-2" piece of cinnamon stick
    * 1 tsp. fenugreek seeds
    * 1 tsp. black peppercorns
    * 1/4 tsp. ground asafetida
    * 1 tsp. cumin seeds
    * 20 fresh curry leaves, if available
    * 12 hot dried red chilies

Heat the oil (yes, only 1 tsp.) in a large, heavy frying pan or wok over medium heat. Put in the coriander seeds, mustard seeds, split mung dal, split chana dal, urad dal, fenugreek seeds, peppercorns, asafetida, and cumin. Stir and roast for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the curry leaves. Stir and roast for a further 5 minutes. Add the dried chilies and continue stirring and roasting for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the chilies darken. Empty the spices into a bowl to cool, then, in small batches, grind as finely as possible in a coffee grinder. Store in a tightly closed jar, away from heat and sunlight. You can also buy sambar powder at an Indian grocery store, but it is not nearly as flavorful as this.

Vegetable Sambar

One of the things I love about this recipe is that you can change the fresh veggies to incorporate what you have in your refrigerator.  You can use any combination of carrots, green bean, zucchini, onion, fresh greens like spinach or kale, tomatoes, etc. 

An important steps in southern Indian cuisine is the "tarka" added at the end of the dish.  A tarka is a popping of seeds or spices in hot oil and then poured over the dish to add the final flavorful touch.

Serves 4

*3⁄4 cup toor dahl or channa dahl (yellow split lentils)
*3 tbsp. coconut oil
*1 fresh hot green chile, halved
*3 cups of fresh vegetables (I used the following: 2 sliced carrots, 1/2 vidalia onion sliced, handful of fresh green beans chopped into 1" pieces and a big handful of chard sliced into 1/2" wide ribbons, nos stem)
*1-1/2 tsp. tamarind concentrate mixed with 3 T. water
*2-1/2 tbsp. sambar powder
*1 tsp. salt
*1⁄2 tsp. ground turmeric
*1 large tomato diced
*1⁄2 tsp. brown mustard seeds
*15 fresh curry leaves (optional)
*3 tbsp. Fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

1. Combine dal and 2 1⁄2 cups water in a saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat until soft, about 1 hour. Remove from heat, mash with a fork, and set aside.

2. Heat 2 tbsp. of the oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add chile and fry, stirring, until it begins to whiten around the edges. Stir in veggies, reduce heat and cook until they are soft.

3. To the mashed dal, add tamarind paste, sambar powder, salt, turmeric, veggie mixture, tomatoes and 2 cups water. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

4. Heat remaining 1 tbsp. oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds and sauté until they pop. Stir in curry leaves, if using. Pour over sambar. Garnish with cilantro leaves.