90 + Rated Wines, You be the Judge!

Tank Tasting Domaine Tempier, June 2016

Love ‘em or hate ‘em, wine scores sell wine. They are used as marketing tools when the ratings are high and can kill a wine if they’re low. By their very nature, wine ratings are subjective. Really, what is the difference between a Wine Spectator score of 90 and a Wine Advocate score of 89? Or better yet, a Wine Spectator score of 82 and a Wine Advocate score of 90 on the same wine? A function of advertising dollars, perhaps? So how did this business, and a lucrative business it is, get started?

Ratings were not really part of the wine world before 1978. If they used any scoring system at all, critics in both the United States and abroad tended to use a simple 5-point system. Enter Robert M. Parker Jr. a lawyer turned self-employed wine critic who introduced the 100-point system to the wine world in 1978 when he started a wine buying guide called The Wine Advocate, published every two months.

Easy to comprehend, consumers embraced the 100-point rating system immediately. Under his system, a 96 to 100 is an extraordinary wine, 90 to 95 is excellent, and 80 to 89 is above average to very good. To avoid being influenced by the name or reputation of a winery, Mr. Parker tasted batches of wine together, slipping the bottles into individual paper bags and then mixing them up and rating each one.

His system grew in popularity and “Parker Points” started being used as marketing tools by wine retailers. As others began to see the value of such a simple yet effective system, they adopted similar scales. Enter Wine Spectator who in the mid-1980’s introduced their own 100-point scale to market their publication, while others followed over the next 10 years as both Wine & Spirits and Wine Enthusiast adopted the 100-point systems in the mid-1990’s.

One of the most respected reviewers, Stephen Tanzer, began his International Wine Cellar publication in 1985.  While Tanzer used Parker's 100 point system, he had a reputation for choosing finesse over power; the opposite of Parker's palate which tended toward full bodied, warm climate wines. His reviews were precise and to the point, without all of Parker's flamboyant style, and over the years he developed a reputation for being stingy with big scores.  Tanzer has recently joined forces with Antonio Galloni, previously a wine reviewer for Robert Parker, and in my opinion, they have created one of the most dynamic platforms for in-depth information on the wine regions of the world, Vinous Media.  Vinous began in 2013 and offers its users an interactive experience using video, maps, photos, interviews, stories and of course, professional wine reviews.

All of these publications and websites can have a major influence on retail sales. On the positive side, ratings can give novice wine tasters an objective way to judge wines. On the negative side, ratings have become influential enough to cause wineries to rise and fall on the strength of their published ratings. A very high rating from a respected rating authority can result in a rapid sellout of a particular wine while leaving another high quality wine without a rating, collecting dust on the shelves.

What you need to keep in mind about all of this is that rating wine is absolutely subjective. The points (and even the tasting notes) written of a particular wine are the opinions of the reviewer and reflect the rater’s own tastes, biases, and preferences. In the end, it’s not my opinion or Mr. Parker’s or the Wine Spectator that matters, it’s how you feel about a wine and the enjoyment it brings you that really counts.

We are doing a 2-part tasting series of 90+ rated wines from various “respected” wine critics for our Wednesday flights over the next 2 weeks. This week we'll focus on Europe; a French rosé (92 points), a Greek white (94 points), a Brunello (92 points) and a Priorat (95 points) . Next week we'll feature 4 domestic 90+ wines.  We’d like you to be the judge and let us know what you think of the wines on the 100-point scale. The flight is $15 and no reservations are required, 6-8pm.  If you can't make it during that time, we will be happy to pour you the flight at any time on Wednesday. 

Your Monday Morning Wine Briefing

Much better than a Monday morning news briefing!

Here's what you need to know:
I asked the staff this morning for a quick answer on their favorite wines in the store right now. 

Kimi - Domaine de la Noblaie Chinon Blanc 2014: Take one of the Loire Valley's leading white varieties Chenin Blanc and plant it in the region's most exalted red appellation, Chinon (most commonly 100% Cabernet Franc) and you have a wine that is quite out of the ordinary; white Chinon. This variety accounts for no more than 2% of the appellation's production - about 16000 cases each year, divided between dozens of different domaines. These wines can be hard to find even when visiting Chinon, as good growers sell out quickly. $24.50 NYR

Clare - Castello di Pomino 2014 Chardonnay Pomino Bianco: "The 2014 Chardonnay Pomino Bianco is pretty, aromatic and nicely lifted in the glass, with plenty of bright citrus and white floral notes. This delicate, aromatic Chardonnay-based blend is easily one of the better 2014 Tuscan whites readers will find. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Pomino Bianco is mostly Chardonnay, with a dollop of Pinot Bianco and a handful of other varieties." $16.99, VM 90 points

Casey - Roux Pere et Fils Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2011:
"A juicy style, with cherry, raspberry, tea, and spice flavors and a mineral element lurking underneath. This is solid, turning more compact on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2016." $35.99, WS 91pts 

Erin - Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2010: "A ripe and juicy red with dried berry and green coffee bean character. Full body, fresh acidity and a juicy finish. A blend of corvina and rondinella." $20.99, RP 90 pts

Beth - Calabretta Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie 2006 - Fantastic representation of an Etna red with a little age! The vines for this wine come from a seven-hectare vineyard on the slopes of Mount Etna. Average age of the vineyards is between 60-80 years with some plants over 100 years old, some ungrafted--on original root stock. This vintage is a blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio. The winery practices organic farming in black volcanic, stony soil at an elevation of 750 meters. super! $29.99

Kerry - Eric Rodez NV Cuvée des Crayeres Ambonnay Grand Cru Brut: "Light yellow-gold. Aromas of Poire William, white flowers and honey are lifted by a zesty mineral topnote. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering very good lift and clarity to its bitter quince and peach pit flavors. Closes on an emphatic, sharply focused mineral note, with firm grip and spicy persistence." $59.99, VM 91 pts

Gone Fishing! 5 Staff Picks, Seafood Pairing Suggestions & Recipes

Fresh caught Dorade in Cassis - Provence Trip, June 2016

As much as I love our time in Tuscany each year, I have to say the meat-centric cuisine can be a bit much after a week of non-stop indulgences.  But who can turn down Bistecca Fiorentina, Ragu di Cinghiale, Prosciutto di Toscano or Salsiccia di Maiale when it is oh so fresh and placed in front of you by enthusiastic Italians shouting "mangia! mangia!"?  Needless to say, I was ready to lighten up my diet when we returned so I thought I'd check in with the staff and ask what they are eating and drinking lately.

Kimi's pick and a staff favorite!

Kimi has a secret source for an abundance of freshly caught fish through a guy known only to us as the "food fairy".  One of her favorite preparations is fish crudo.  Crudo, “raw” in Italian, is the way Italians eat their fresh, uncooked fish: thinly sliced and drizzled with olive oil, an acid (vinegar or citrus) and accented with seasonings.  The key is to good crudo is simple - use only high-quality, ultrafresh seafood and the best olive oil and produce available.  Her top pairing? One of our favorite Greek wines, the Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 2015.  And here's a quick, simple classic crudo recipe:  Tuna Crudo with Lemon

When Erin does seafood she's does it right!

Erin admits that her rural Midwestern upbringing did not include much fish and it’s not something she cooks often.  However good char-grilled oysters can tempt even this meat and potatoes girl, especially when paired with a nice white Burgundy. And if she’s going to do it, Erin is going to splurge with her pairing – Chateau de Meursault 2013 Meursault.  And if you are going to make them, you can't go wrong with the recipe from Dragos! Drago's Charbroiled Oysters Recipe

Quintessential Mediterranean white at an amazing price!

Casey has a soft spot for sardines and loves doing a traditional pasta recipe with lemon, capers and breadcrumbs.  Good canned sardines will work but if you can get your hands on some fresh ones and put them on the grill, you’ll  push your food and wine experience up several notches!  He loves a good Mediterranean coastal white and the Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino 2015 is a top pick.  Chef/author Mark Bittman's recipe is southern Italian staple:  Pasta & Sardines

Cassis Blanc is hard to come by here in New Orleans, and we are very excited to have this in stock!

Kerry and I eat a lot of fish during the summer and each have our own go-to preparations.  My favorite of Kerry’s is a  lightly fried local drum with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a little parsley – about as simple as it gets.  I just picked up a few filets at the Farmer’s Market on Saturday and in anticipation of our Sunday dinner, there's a bottle of the 2013 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc chilling in the fridge.  I’m hoping it will transport us back to that lovely lunch a few weeks ago on the coast in Provence… here's a link to her recipe, plus an almond butter sauce if you want something a bit more complex.  But if you do, I'd change the pairing to the La Scolca Gavi!  - 2 Pairings with Gulf Coast Drum

Clare gave us the most thoughtful answer when I posed the question and since many of you may not know her I thought I’d publish her complete response and share her excitement about food and wine pairing.

“Last week I had a friend over for dinner. Since we had so much to catch up on and it’s been so hot we wanted to keep it casual yet delicious and use what was in season. Shrimp are beautiful this time of year and pair perfectly with a crisp clean Chablis like the Willam Fevre Champs Royaux 2014. We made fresh boiled shrimp salad on a brioche bun with arugula and a side of cold root vegetable salad with fresh dill. 

The buttery shrimp on the sweet brioche bread and the slight spice of the arugula were a great combination with Chablis which brought out the richness and cut the fat without overpowering the delicate flavors of the sandwich. It also held its own and didn't get lost in the bold flavors of the root salad. The best part of this pairing for me was that the wine tasted different yet still paired well when tasted separately with the sandwich and the salad, even on its own for that matter. It's such a fun adventure to explore wine and taste how they change with different foods.

Everything about this meal is made for the hot slow days of summer- not much time standing over the stove, everything is chilled, can be made ahead of time and can be served leisurely. I highly recommend. The meal is a bit of a splurge, but everything holds well and leftovers are great, so buy two bottles of Chablis to enjoy again the next night!”

So there you have it!  I hope you'll experiment for some new recipes and new wines to help get you through this hot, humid New Orleans summer!

Two Great Pairings with Fresh Gulf Coast Drum

When thinking about food and wine pairing, the goal is for the subtle nuances of the wine to compliment the predominant flavors in the food. So as I was deciding what to pair the with La Scolca Gavi, I went with one of the distinct characteristics of the wine, which is an almond undertone, and decided to go for a simple Gulf Coast Drum with Almond and Butter Sauce. The richness of the butter and almonds with the light, tangy lemon is the perfect pairing with the medium, sometimes almost oily texture of Gavi. Add some delicious Gulf Coast fish and you have a quick easy recipe that can be pulled together in about 15 minutes.

If you want to keep things even more simple, just saute the fish and serve with a squeeze of lemon and some fresh parsley.  But we'll need to change the wine to something a bitter lighter but with enough body to hold up to fried food.  The Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc is a favorite pairing of mine with freshly caught fried fish.

SERVES 6
The fish:

* 2 lbs of fresh Gulf Coast Drum
* 1/2 cup seasoned flour (1/2 t. mixed salt and pepper)
* olive oil or neutral frying oil

Dredge fish fillets in seasoned flour.

Pour olive oil into a large skillet until you have about 1/4 inch of oil in the pan. Heat on a medium flame; add fillets.

Saute quickly on both sides until lightly browned; do not over cook. Place fish on a heated platter.

The Sauce:
Makes 3/4 cup
Ingredients

* 1/2 cup butter
* 2/3 cup (2 ounces) sliced almonds
* 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add almonds; sauté 2 to 4 minutes until golden brown. (Do not overcook or butter will burn.) Stir in lemon juice and parsley. Serve immediately.

Serve with a nicely chilled glass of La Scolca Gavi!

The Heart and Soul of Bandol, Domaine Tempier

The impressive bottle lineup for our tasting.

Today's tour and tasting at Domaine Tempier in Bandol gets put on our short list of truly special visits. Greeted by family member Véronique Peyraud Rougeot, we spent hours barrel and tank tasting the young wines, comparing all of the 2013 single vineyard reds, trying their Bandol Blanc and current vintage rosé, walking around the beautiful property while hearing stories of her famous mother Lulu, father Lucien, and the rest of her close knit family.

The original family home built in the 1800's

View at Domaine Tempier of the cinsault vineyards, looking towards the sea.

Lulu inherited Domaine Tempier from her father Alphonse Tempier in 1940. Originally the wine produced there was sold in bulk and the majority of the land was planted with peach orchards.  But when Lulu and husband Lucien took over the property  they wanted to focus on quality - Bandol had just received its AOC status in 1941 and there was much excitement about the future of the region. Soon after, in 1942, Lucien bottled his first wine, the Domaine Tempier AOC Rosé Bandol.

Over time their holdings grew with the purchase of remarkable vineyard sites around the region, most of which can be seen from the property; first with the purchase of la Migoua, followed by La Tourtine and Cabassaou.  From La Tourtine Lucien created his first red Bandol in 1951.  Their total acreage is now 38 hectares spread over several parcels facing the sea on steep, sun-drenched slopes and they produce roughly 10,000 total cases of wine per year.

An old pine tree on the property providing shade for many a meal and celebration.

Lucien and Lulu toasting under that beautiful pine tree.

The estate is known worldwide for producing some of the highest quality Bandol wines and the family is known for their hard work, generosity and high standards. Lucien helped to shape the production standards of the region and pushed hard for a higher inclusion of Mouvedre.  In 1945, he was elected chairman of the Bandol winegrowers’ syndicate, and in 1947 he became a member of the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine), the French AOC regulatory body. Original documents stated only 10% of the blend needed to be in the mix but knowing the quality potential of the grape, he fought for more.  Lucien's persistence raised the percentages to 20, then 30 and now today's Bandol Rouge must contain at least 50% Mourvedre.

The old vine Mourvedre , the signature grape of the region

While Lucien was gaining fame as a producer, Lula was known for her love of Provencal cuisine.  Any press you read about Domaine Tempier contains as much about Lulu's cooking as it does the famous wines.  I first read about her in a recent Saveur article where her food is described as "Simply put, Lulu's food embodies the best of French home cooking, marked by Provençal simplicity and elegant restraint."  We were happy to see the cookbooks for sale at the Domaine and Veronique asked if we wanted her mother, now 99 years old, to sign our books. Well of course!  What a special treat!  I've listed one of her recipes at the end of this post.

When we had finished our tasting Veronique asked me if we would like to taste an older vintage rosé. My eager "yes please!" sent her off to a back room and after some time she emerged with a dusty bottle of 1999 Rosé that was simply incredible. Vibrant acidity, the telltale salinity with the dusty, honeyed, rose petal aromatics - it was a fantastic example of the aging potential of a well made Bandol Rosé.

Tank tasting of 2014 Bandol rouge with Veronique.

Tank tasting of 2014 Bandol Rouge "Tourtin", one of their 3 single vineyard reds.

The barrel & foudre cellar.

As we emerged from the cool cellar into the warm windy Provence day, we all felt like fast friends of Veronique and her family. The connection they have to the land of southern France, their passion for what they do and the warmhearted way in which they embrace and welcome outsiders makes for a touching and very special visit. Thank you Veronique, you've made us fans for life! And oh, yes we loved the wine as well! :)

The biggest treat of the afternoon!

Thank you Veronique!

Lulu's Tapenade Recipe

Most every restaurant we visit here in Provence brings you a small complimentary bowl of their house olive tapenade, spread on toasts it is lovely with the local rosé.  Here is Lulu's version that the book states is "one of the trademark Tempier appestisers".

Tapenade
from Lulu's Provencal Table

Ingredients

1 garlic clove, peeled and pounded to a paste with a pinch of coarse salt
Small pinch of cayenne
1⁄2 lb large Greek-style black olives, pitted
3 T. capers
1 tsp. chopped young fresh savory leaves or pinch or crumble dry savory leaves
4 salt anchovy fillets or 2 whole anchovies, well rinsed and chopped
4 T. extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, reduce the olives, anchovies, capers, garlic, cayenne and savory to a coarse purée.  Add the olive oil and process only until the mixture is homogeneous-a couple of rapid whirls. 

Bon Appetite!
 

Cacio e Pepe, A Roman Classic

Every trip to Rome should include a plate of Cacio e Pepe!

In anticipation of our upcoming trip to Rome, I cooked a simple, classic pasta dish last night for friends.  Inspired by Katie Parla's cookbook, Tasting Rome, I wanted to make something quick but unmistakably Roman and Cacio e Pepe was the perfect dish.

Loving the food culture and history of Rome, I bought this cookbook recently after reading a few reviews and was not disappointed!  Katie Parla and photographer Kristina Gill capture Rome's unique character and truly evolved food culture - a culmination of two thousand years of history!

Many recipes for Cacio e Pepe call for Parmigiano cheese, but really there is no substitute for freshly grated Pecorino Romano.  This sheep's milk cheese has been made in the region since ancient times and it is what gives this dish it's unique tangy bite!

From Katie Parla's "Tasting Rome":

Ingredient List
Sea salt
1 pound spaghetti or tonnarelli (I used Bucatini)
2 cups finely grated Pecorino Romano
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Instructions
SERVINGS: 4 to 6

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Salt the water. When the salt has dissolved, add the pasta and cook until al dente.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine 1½ cups of the Pecorino Romano, the pepper, and a small ladle of pasta cooking water. Using the back of a large wooden spoon, mix vigorously and quickly to form a paste.

When the pasta is cooked, use a large strainer to remove it from the cooking water and quickly add it to the sauce in the bowl, keeping the cooking water boiling on the stove. Toss vigorously, adjusting with additional hot water a tablespoon or two at a time as necessary to melt the cheese and to obtain a juicy sauce that completely coats the pasta.

Plate and sprinkle each portion with some of the remaining Pecorino Romano and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, close your eyes and picture yourself outside sitting around the Campo di Fiori in Rome...

Temperature Matters

Serving wine at the proper temperature is something we all struggle with here in New Orleans.  It's really an issue in the US in general; we drink our reds too warm and our whites too cold.  Especially here in the sub tropics - our reds suffer severely from the idea that they are best served at "room temperature".

The crayeres, underground cellars at Taittinger that keep the wine at the perfect temperature

The whole room temperature red wine thing came out of Europe where those lovely stone castles and chateau, lacking in central heat,  remain a constant 60 some degrees. Then there are those cool underground cellars at where their whites rest at a perfect 55 degrees.  That is a far cry from our poorly insulated below sea level homes in our stifling humidity and 90+ degree temperatures!

So what's the big deal?  What does it really matter what temperature you serve your wines?  I guess that all depends on the drinking experience you are looking to have.  If your goal is to guzzle down a big high alcohol red so you can get a quick buzz to start your weekend, then chances are you don't really care how it's showing.  But if you really want to experience a wine at it's best, temperature matters.

When we pour a white wine directly from our frosty 35 degree refrigerators to our glass, the aromatics and flavors are suppressed. The cold brings out greater astringency, which means the wine can taste sharp and tart.  And our room temperature average of 72 degrees for reds?  They lose all their finesse and freshness to an overpowering sensation of alcohol and tannin.  They're flabby, out of balance and not as enjoyable as they could be with a little help.

But you don't need to have a fancy wine cellar to serve/drink your wines at the proper temperature, just practice the 20/20 rule.  If you store white wine in the refrigerator, take it out 20 minutes before you want to pour it. To cool down reds put them in the frig for 20 minutes before serving.  That’s all it takes.

Kerry is more of a stickler about the red wine thing than I am - I'm usually impatient and just want a glass of wine.  Sometimes I think she waits too long and the wine gets too cold!  With whites, I like them a bit warmer, Kerry- super cold! So to help us both out, I got these little wine bottle digital temperature cuffs. You put them on a bottle, give it a few minutes and it reads the temperature of the bottle.  

So I  put one of the digital thermometers ($16 at swirl) on a bottle that is down in the dark corner where we store our wine at home and got this: 72 degrees.  Upstairs in the kitchen while we are making dinner? Yikes! 75 degrees! In the fridge 20 minutes? A perfect 63!  

Here's what we should be shooting for:  Typical temperature for serving red wine ranges from 52ºF - 65ºF, and 45ºF- 50ºF for white wines.  If you really want to get picky about this, there are different temperature suggestions for different varieties (see chart above).  But I think if we just shoot for the averages for now, we'll all be happier wine drinkers!  

Cheers!

Tuscan Vin Santo, A Heavenly Wine

Vin Santo or “holy wine” is produced in a few different Italian wine regions and in fact, Greece, but it’s most famous expression comes from Tuscany.  As with many things in Italy there are lots of tales around how it got its name but whatever the origin the wine dates back to the middle ages and is no doubt heavenly and the perfect end to a nice Italian meal.  

Vin Santo can range from being dry, off dry or on the sweeter side depending on the producer and the vintage. From large producers to small “fattoria” or farms, many people make it although much of it never gets exported but saved for special guests and holidays. The good stuff can be on the pricey side as it goes through a lengthy aging process before it ever literally sees the light of day, which is one of the reasons they are hard to come by.  

And also as with many things Italian, the details are in the process.  In Tuscany Vin Santo is usually made with ripe grapes of the local Trebbiano or Malvasia as the usual suspects. Grapes are picked and left to dry on mats (or hung from the rafters) for a few months before being pressed—the sugar in the grapes concentrates as they slowly turn into raisins. The juice is then fermented and aged for up to ten years in small cigar-shaped small chestnut barrels called “caratelli,” with a starter or “madre” of residue from the previous year’s Vin Santo added to provide a yeast boost.  The barrels are not completely full which exposes the wine to air, giving it its oxidized character and color.

When ready, Vin Santo is rich and golden, sometimes more amber, and viscous, with a scent of apricots and a smooth taste of caramel and nuts. The nutty notes are what make the sweeter Vin Santo perfect with cantuccini - these Tuscan almond biscuits are dunked in the wine, which they soak up beautifully. 

We have 2 in the store right now and it’s hard for me to decide which I enjoy more.  But thankfully I don’t really need to choose :)  Here’s a little about each of them and we’ll be featuring one of these at the bar on February 24 if you’d like to finish with something a little sweet after our Northern Italian Flight with Linda Smith.

Castellare 2007 Vin Santo San Niccolò, Vinous Media 92 points
Readers who like traditional Vin Santo will adore Castellare's 2007 San Niccolo. Almonds, orange peel, cinnamon, mint and leather all meld together in a relatively mid-weight, dry Vin Santo loaded with personality. The 2007 possesses gorgeous inner perfume and texture, yet remains light on its feet and totally classy. When I think of great traditional Vin Santos, Castellare is among the very best. 

Badia a Coltibuono 2008 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Vinous Media 91 points
Badia a Coltibuono's 2008 Vin Santo is laced with warm, nutty overtones typical of Vin Santo made with white grapes, in this case a blend of equal parts Trebbiano and Malvasia. High-toned aromatics develop in the glass, along with hints of apricot jam, candied orange peel and floral honey. Drink this bright Vin Santo over the next decade or so.

Message from Michael, Champagne Education Series Round 2!

A heartfelt “Merci!” to all of you who attended my series of tastings at Swirl last year.  I hope you had even a fraction of the fun and enjoyment that I had spending those evenings with you, exploring the best wine in the world.  And, I hope you’re ready to do it again!  We’ll of course start at the very beginning - a refresher course (with different wines) for those who attended last year, in order to get new tasters up to speed with the complexity of champagne.  As the ongoing exploration of terroir by the champenois vignerons is what makes this a vital, dynamic wine region today, we will take a guided tour of the various sub-regions of the Champagne appellation.  By the end, I hope you will have a deeper understanding of how the climate, soil, and grapes, via the decisions and talents of the winemakers, give rise to the immensely intriguing and satisfying array of wines we call champagne.
-Michael

Each single class is limited to 20 people and will be accompanied by various cheeses and snacks, cost is $45/class.  You can guarantee your spot for all 5 classes and receive a 10% discount by prepaying, cost is $202 and you can do so here or register for the individual sessions:

Advance Payment Champagne Education Series, $202

Individual sessions:

Session 1:  “Champagne 101 v2.0”, February 16, 6:30pm, $45
Champagne is wine first and foremost.  But, it is also the most complex category out there.  Because of this, it is often misunderstood, overlooked, and “relegated” to celebratory occasions rather than being enjoyed on its own merits as a wine.  This overview of the basic styles of champagne will help you understand why this is such a special type of wine, make sense of the complexity of its production and styles, and appreciate why it shouldn’t just be served for special occasions.
  
Session 2: “Cotes des Blancs”, March 15, 6:30 pm, $45
Small but mighty.  Tonight we dive into a relatively compact sub-region within the Champagne appellation, one whose strength and importance is driven almost exclusively by Chardonnay.  The chalk is close to the surface yet goes very deep, and the wines derive a distinct power from this soil.  Even within this, there are differences in the expression of the grape from village to village.  We’ll explore a range of styles, to help you understand the region as well as the different tastes that Chardonnay gives us.  

Session 3: “Montagne de Reims”, May 19, 6:30 pm, $45
Not only will this Montagne redefine what one thinks of as a “mountain”, it will expand your understanding of Pinot Noir, which finds unique, superb expressions here in the heart of Champagne.  Though chalk underlies it all, as in the rest of Champagne, the vineyards face all directions of the compass and the wines accordingly offer varied examples of what is possible within the region.  It isn’t all Pinot Noir, though, and the Chardonnay here provides its own unique flavors.  Your thirst for knowledge will definitely be quenched after you climb the Montagne with us.

Session 4:  “Vallee de la Marne”, June 23, 6:30 pm, $45
An unassuming yet crucial part of Champagne, this is where the unheralded Pinot Meunier flourishes.  The varied landscape and soil types provide a very broad array of flavors and styles.  Though largely removed from the Grand Cru villages of the Cotes des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, the wines are nonetheless delicious and well-made.  It isn’t all Pinot Meunier, however - Chardonnay and Pinot Noir certainly appear, though show different sides in this region.  You’ve been drinking wine comprised in part from this region most any time you’ve opened a bottle from a larger producer.  This tasting will let you separate these wines out and appreciate the role they play in the classic blends of champagne.

Session 5: “The Aube Revolution”, July 14, 6:30 pm, $45
Though it is definitely not the case anymore, the southern reaches of the Champagne region were neglected for a long time.  There were very destructive riots in the early 1900s, staged by the growers from this region, in order to be made part of the official appellation.  This rebellious, independent spirit can still be found in the winemaking today.  Not as bound by the traditions of the rest of the region (yet still within the parameters of champagne production), and benefitting from soil that has more in common with Burgundy (immediately to the south), the winemakers here are exploring terroir and providing us with great new ways to experience what it is possible to produce within the larger appellation.  Pinot Noir does particularly well in these parts and these producers are giving us new ways of looking at its role in champagne.  And, as this tasting falls on Bastille Day, you might even get to see a little sabrage - “off with its head”, indeed.  

Each single class is limited to 20 people and will be accompanied by various cheeses and snacks, cost is $45/class.  You can guarantee your spot for all 5 classes and receive a 10% discount by prepaying, cost is $202 and you can do so here or register for the individual sessions:

Advance Payment Champagne Education Series, $202

The Somm's Pick Dining Club

The Dryades Public Market, the first stop for our new series, The Somm's Pick Dining Club

Our crazy popular Somm's Pick program last year introduced you to some of our city's hardworking somms while you learned a bit about what they do and how they do it.   You discovered that blind tasting can be fun and intimidating at the same time and you got to hone your personal skills with the Court of Master Sommeliers tasting grid.  You had the opportunity to taste with them and purchase exclusive wines that they felt were some of the most exciting in the market.  

But Besides selecting and tasting interesting wines for their respective workplaces, one of a somms most important jobs is food and wine pairing.  Because for many of us,  the ultimate wine experience is that "ah ha" moment when a food and a wine work so well together that neither is as interesting or compelling without the other.  So, I thought it would add a different educational aspect to the program if I could bring you to them for a unique pairing and learning opportunity.

Enter "The Somm's Pick Dining Club", a way to take you far beyond the basic rules of red wine with red meat, white wine with fish and into another realm of the dining experience. We'll team up some of our favorite somms with our favorite chefs, offering 3-4 courses paired with interesting wines in an educational setting.  What makes one wine work and another not?  What reds can I pair with fish and why?  How can I use Champagne or sparkling wine as a compliment to food instead of just a celebratory beverage?  What foods can I serve with a highly tannic wine?  Is my favorite oaky chardonnay a the best choice for dinner?  We'll walk you through all of those answers and more.

So here's how it will work: we'll meet at a local restaurant where a somm and a chef have worked on creative pairings, 3-4 courses.  The somm will present the wines and discuss the how's and why's of pairing each course as the chef discusses the challenges presented with the selected wines.

I'm very excited to announce that our first dinner club meeting will be on Tuesday, January 26th at the newly opened Dryades Public Market with Chef Dan Esses and Sommelier Michelle Gueydan.  Dan and I have worked together countless times on events and dinners and he has generously offered to kick off our series with a 4-course pairing event for $65, all inclusive. As before, the members of the Somm's Pick Buyers Club gets first pick of the 25 spots that will be available for the event and the remaining spots will be offered to the general public.  

Invitations to the club will go out later this week and look for my link in next week's email for the remaining spots.  If you are interested in information on our Somm's Pick Buyers Club, email us at sommspick@gmail.com

Bubbles to Ponder for the New Year

We adore bubbles here at Swirl!  And while we love our selection of Franciacorta and both small grower and select big house Champagnes, we carry 50+ different types of bubblies from all over the world, priced from $10 to $150.  Here are just a few of our fave's but I wish I could list them all!  

As a warning, if you are looking for those popular bottles with the bright orange labels or white stars, you won't find them here.  We focus on smaller production alternatives for those who want to venture out and drink unique, high-quality bubbles.  But never fear, if you are set on those recognizable bottles, we can send you right next door to the grocery store - Canseco's!  

Favorites from Around the World Under $25
2011 Argyle Brut, 91 points Wine Advocate
The 2011 Brut is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay undergoing a 5% malolactic fermentation and disgorged in September 2014. It was matured in 20% neutral oak and 80% stainless steel. It has a vibrant citrus-driven bouquet that is well defined and offers a little touch of peach with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, touches of brioche and pineapple with a fresh, vivacious finish. Excellent - and great value, too. 

Zardetto Conegliano, Prosecco Brut
One of our most popular dry Prosecco sparkling wines which comes from the classic Prosecco region of Veneto, Italy. The floral, peach aromas and crisp, refreshing palate makes this ideal for parties. This is everything you want a Prosecco to be!

NV Marie-Pierre Manciat Cremant de Bourgogne, 91 points, Wine Advocate
The dry, sparkling non-vintage Cremant de Bourgogne (100% Chardonnay) offers up notes of orange blossoms, tangerine oil and lemon rind. Fresh, lively, medium-bodied, penetrating and long, this is a sensational value in sparkling Chardonnay.  Some sensational values have emerged from Marie-Pierre Manciat.

Vallformosa Florinda Cava
From some of Vallformosa’s oldest vines planted over the first half of the 20th century and having spent 12 months on its lees, this is a stunning mouthful and a great expression of what is seductive about Cava de Penedés. Fragrant and fresh apricot pastry with candied flowers and a dry, chalk like minerality on the palate with a tangy finish

Jean Baptiste Audy Cremant de Bordeaux
Creamy Cremant de Bordeaux with a delicate mousse of bubbles. A Bordelaise speciality made in the same way as Champagne with flavors of lime, pear and quince underpinned by subtle hints of white cherry blossom, walnuts and caramel. Very aromatic and well balanced. A nice long frothy finish.

A Few Favorites from Franciacorta & Champagne, $30 - $50
Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut Animante, 90 points Wine Advocate
Made with organically-farmed fruit, the non-vintage Franciacorta Brut Animante is a plush and textured sparkling wine that peels back slowly to reveal aromas of peach, honeydew melon, pear and Golden Delicious apple. Crisp acidity helps to create a mouthfeel that is light, tonic and graced with a great sense of energy and brightness. The wine presents mild textural richness that suggests immediate or near-term drinking window. The blend is 78% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Nero and 4% Pinot Bianco. 

Champagne Voirin Jumel Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Bru, 91 points Vinous
Bright gold. Emphatically fruity on the nose and palate, offering fresh pear, nectarine and orange zest aromas and flavors. Juicy and open-knit, with suave floral and sweet butter qualities emerging on the back half, along with a hint of melon. This very expressive blanc de blancs finishes smoky and penetrating, with a suggestion of chalky minerality gaining power.

Montenisa Franciacorta Brut, 90 points Wine Advocate
Lightly toasted and yeasty, the non-vintage Franciacorta Brut shows rich layers of pear, dried apricots and preserved lemon. It delivers medium body with crisp freshness and detailed perlage that feels smooth and creamy on the palate. The blend is Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and a small part Pinot Nero for added aromatics.

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur , 91 points Vinous
Light yellow. Lively, sharply focused lemon and green apple aromas pick up deeper melon and peach qualities with air. Spicy and precise on the palate, offering juicy citrus fruit and honeysuckle flavors and a touch of candied fig. Powerful yet lively, finishing with strong punch and building mineral and floral qualities. This suave Champagne has the heft to handle rich foods and the tension to work by itself.

Ca del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Prestige Brut, 91 points Robert Parker
The NV Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Brut offers a sophisticated and stylish presentation with exotic fruit, baked bread, peach cobbler and Golden Delicious apple. This pretty Cuvée (made with 75% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Bianco and 15% Pinot Nero) offers a great sense of richness and creaminess that adds to the fine and silky nature of the perlage. It has the natural acidity and bright freshness to pair with raw seafood.

Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain, 91 points Vinous
Light gold. Lees-accented orchard and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by sweet butter, iodine and smoky minerals. Dry and expansive on the palate, offering lively pear and melon flavors and a refreshingly bitter touch of orange pith. Ample but lithe brut, with very good finishing punch and repeating smoke and pear qualities.

And Some Very Special Bottles, $50+
Champagne Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru V P Extra-Brut, 95 points Vinous
The NV Extra Brut Grand Cru V.P. (Vieillissement Prolongé), Egly -Ouriet's from Ambonnay, A towering, deeply expressive wine, the V.P. possesses stunning depth to match its spherical, textured personality. As is the custom here, the V.P. spent 76 months on its lees, yet it remains vibrant, poised and deeply refreshing. A host of chalk, white pepper, dried rose petal and red stone fruits wrap around the intense finish. Aging in oak shapes the wine beautifully here. What a gorgeous Champagne this is.

2011 Ferghettina Franciacorta Rose Brut, 90 points Wine Advocate
The 2011 Franciacorta Rosé Brut (100% Pinot Nero) is on the informal side of the Franciacorta sparkling wine spectrum, but it also delivers loads of delicious fruit freshness. This attractive rosé sparkler offers a food-friendly personality that would pair with seafood, grilled tuna or sushi. The wine is fresh, forthcoming and versatile. Crisp acidity and silky perlage appears on the close. This wine sees 36 months of sur lies aging. 

Champagne J. Lassalle Brut Rose, 92 points Vinous
The NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru is wonderfully complex in the glass. Sweet red cherry, stone fruits, flowers, mint  nd spices inform a supple, expressive Rosé endowed with considerable appeal. The nuanced, refined finish only adds to the wine approachability and pure pleasure. Bouzy and Verzenay, is stellar. 

Champagne H Goutorbe Special Club Millésime Grand Cru Brut 2005, 93 points Robert Parker
The H Goutorbe Special Club Millésime Grand Cru Brut is made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay picked from fairly old vines cultivated in Aÿ. My sample (which I tasted at the Trésor Club degustation in Reims earlier this year) was disgorged in March 2014. It is a full-bodied, rich and well-structured champagne with intensity but also purity, freshness, finesse and elegance of fruit. The finish is impressive and powerful, and indicates a good aging potential. 

Champagne Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Extra-Brut Cuvée Oenophile 2005, 93 points Vinous
The 2005 Extra-Brut Cuvée Oenophile is striking in its beauty. Honey, almonds, tangerine and wild flowers inform the 2005 Cuvée Oenophile. A deep, rich, resonant wine, the 2005 impresses for its intensity and purity. The 2005 spent 84 months on the lees, which gives the wine great richness and intensity. Dosage was only 1 gram per liter. Oenophile is a blend of parcels in Chouilly, Cramant, Cuis and Oger. 

The 12 Wines of Christmas, 2013 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Petalos

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

Old vine Mencia in Bierzo, Spain

Our next wine of Christmas  is made by a passionate winemaker who brought a grape and a region back from near extinction...

It's always a great story when some obscure, indigenous grape variety is coaxed back from near extinction by a passionate winemaker.  It is a story that happens only in the ancient wine producing regions of the world, places where historically wine has been made for centuries.  Our story for this post is about Spain and a region in the Northwest quadrant called Bierzo.  

The first written record of wine making in the region was some 2000 years ago by Pliny the Elder and it is continually mentioned throughout history as an important area where grapes were cultivated by the Romans and later by the Christian monks who set up monasteries and hospices to help the pilgrims on their journeys to Santiago de Compostela. Then phylloxera arrived and nearly wiped out Bierzo and it was a very long, slow process to breathe life back into this obscure little region.

But in the 1990's a famous winemaker, Alvaro Palacios, visited Bierzo and saw the potential in the region with its incredibly steep hillside vineyards, distinctive terroirs, and most importantly, ancient vineyards of Mencía—a unique red grape believed brought by French pilgrims during the Middle Ages.  He got distracted by another promising region, Priorato, for a time but he never let go of his dream to make wine from old vine Mencia in Bierzo.

Alvaro and his nephew Ricardo Perez, another up and coming winemaker, came back to the region in 1998 and decided to base their operations in a  little town on Bierzo’s western border named Corullón.   Alvaro and Ricardo's vision was to make great wines from old vineyards in the region. They now make seven wines, including five single-vineyard wines from exceptional terroirs, all made with the once obscure Mencia grape

Our featured wine, the Pétalos del Bierzo, is the entry level, but it’s always a serious effort. Produced from biodynamically farmed small hillside parcels of 60-100 year old vine Mencia grown in rocky slate soil around Corrullón, the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Petalos has been a long time favorite of the store since I tasted it with Matt Lirette more than 8 years ago and it just seems to get better and better with each year.  Beautiful nose of lavender, incense, spice box, black cherry, and cranberry, with nice weight on the palate, intensity, and layered fruit, it would make a great gift for anyone who can appreciate a well made, balanced with with a great history.

2013 Descendientes de Jose Palacios Petalos
91 pts - Wine Spectator
"Expressive black cherry, currant, licorice, mineral and smoke flavors mingle in this focused red. The texture is gentle but firm, with well-integrated tannins and racy acidity providing structure. A compact wine that shows good intensity. Drink now through 2023. 

The 12 Wines of Christmas, Ca' Del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Prestige

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

The beautiful property of Ca' Del Bosco in Franciacorta, Italy

Our next wine of Christmas  is a high-quality sparkling that can rival Champagne but from my favorite place in the world!

I'll admit, it took me a long time to appreciate Franciacorta.  As a women obsessed with Italian wine who is in the business, you wouldn't think it would take almost 8 years to get "it".  But in my defense, the problem with Franciacorta was that its availability in the US had been scarce and with only 11% of its production sold abroad, it was something I rarely got to taste. Then I went to northern Italy for the first time and Franciacorta was everywhere!  And affordable - and made by producers I'd never heard of - and I could drink a different one everyday to start my meal.  I became obsessed with tasting every Franciacorta I could find!  And I finally got "it".  High quality bubbles that could rival Champagne from my favorite place in the world?  What a no brainer!

So after that visit in 2014, I came back home and started asking our wholesalers about Franciacorta and excitedly they have been trickling  into the market.  Berlucchi, Ferghettina, Bellavista, Ca del Bosco, Cantadi Castaldi, Montenisa, Barone Pizzini...I'm was so excited that we bought a new shelf just to accommodate all of the Franciacorta (as well as the 50+ different bottles of sparkling from all over the world! ) I want to buy!  

Tasting at Ca' Del Bosco, April 2015

Which brings us to my next in the lineup of 12 wines of Christmas, the Ca' Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige, the elegant wine in the elegant package that has been a staple on our shelves and at the bar since I returned from that trip. It is a great way to introduce people to the quality bubbles from the region.  We were able to visit there this year and the property is as stunning as their wine!

The Cuvee Prestige, a staple on our shelves and at the bar.

NV  Ca del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Prestige Brut
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 91 points
The NV Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Brut offers a sophisticated and stylish presentation with exotic fruit, baked bread, peach cobbler and Golden Delicious apple. This pretty Cuvée (made with 75% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Bianco and 15% Pinot Nero) offers a great sense of richness and creaminess that adds to the fine and silky nature of the perlage. It has the natural acidity and bright freshness to pair with raw seafood.

The 12 Wines of Christmas, Valpolicella from the Veneto

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

Today's feature is about a region, so you are getting 3 wines in one post!

Packing the punch of extraction and purity of fruit that equal some of the best the New World has to offer, the wines of Valpolicella, and especially those made in the Recioto and Amarone styles, are the perfect "gateway" wines. In terms of wine gifts, one of the great things about Valpolicella is that you can experience the different aging and vinification processes across a spectrum of price points and styles. Basic Valpolicella is usually priced in the teens, Valpolicella Classico and Superior are priced in the high teens to low 20's, Ripassa style usually starts in the 20's to mid 30's, while most Amarone and Recioto (Recioto is sold usually in 375 ml bottles) wines begin in the $50 range and go from there.

It all starts with Valpolicella, an area within the Veneto region of Northeast Italy around Lake Garda. Like “Chianti”, Valpolicella is a region, not a grape and the red wines produced there are blends dominated by Corvina, with Corvinone and Rondinella usually lending support. Molinara, Negrara, Rossignola, Dindarella and a few other local varieties are also allowed, although have diminished in importance. But it is Corvina that forms the backbone of the blend with its silky tannins and deliciously fruity, smoky red cherry flavors and aromas with the deeply colored Rondinella grape adding red currant and citrus components plus color-intensity to the blend.

What can be difficult to understand about Valpolicella is that there is a hierarchy of styles. The lighter fruitier styles of Valpolicella Classico wines are what most people associate with the zone, but these are actually more recent creations. They were preceded in history by the sweet Recioto della Valpolicella and it’s dry counterpart, Amarone.

Recioto, by most accounts came into fashion during Roman times when wines were made sweet and high in alcohol to preserve them during long travel. The Romans are also said to have developed the process of “appassimento”, in which the grapes were dried in farmhouses on straw mats which transforms them into shriveled, sweet, tiny concentrated berries. To make Recioto, they press these tiny dried berries but stop fermentation early to retain the high sugar level.

Amarone is said to have come about possibly as a mistake, someone left a barrel of Recioto unattended too long, the yeasts in the barrel continued to work and the wine fermented to dryness. Now aged a minimum of 25 months in oak, they are densely concentrated and deeply colored with luscious ripe fruit balanced with a savory core of alcohol, acidity and tannins. Think leather, coffee, chocolate, stewed blackberry fruit all wrapped up in a rich, viscous and heavenly concoction that just so happens to come out of a wine bottle.

Straight Valpolicella Classico (no oak aging required) are the perfect easy drinking wines to have with pizza or pasta or sitting on the porch on warm summer evening. They are vinified in the traditional manner using fresh grapes and usually have little or no oak and present a fresh, fruit forward style with light tannins and tart acidity. The Classico Superior wines can definitely take on a more serious note with 14 months of oak aging required. You have more structure and complexity present which makes them a better match with game and roasted meats, although they are usually wonderfully pleasant on their own as well.

Valpolicella Ripassa is a different animal yet. The term Ripassa means “re-passed” and was made famous by Agricola Masi in the 1960’s. The straight Valpolicella, produced earlier in the usual red wine fashion, is passed "back over" the lees of the Amarone or Recioto after their fermentation is complete. The lees or pomace includes yeast, grape seeds, pulp, stems and skin and traces of alcohol. All of this leads to a second fermentation and the creation of Ripassa Valpolicella whose color, depth and flavors are greater than those of the original Valpolicella. Sometimes referred to as baby Amarone, it is also ready to drink much sooner than the Amarone and usually comes in at a third of the price.

Currently we are carrying a few different styles of Valpolicella, each chosen for their unique expression of the region, vinification process and quality. But as with everything else in our store, my selection changes frequently although you will always find at least one Valpolicella on our shelves.

Valpolicella Offerings at Swirl ranging from $15 to $75:

• Zenato Valpolicella Superiore
• Tommaso Bussola Ca' del Laito Ripasso
• Giuliano Rosati Amarone della Valpolicella
• Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella

The 12 Wines of Christmas, 2010 Cenyth Red Blend

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

The label for Cenyth is designed by artist Julia Jackson

Our 4th wine of Christmas is made by a female French winemaker with a famous winemaker father.

It's not often that I fall for a California wine. Italy and France are my wine drinking countries of choice - I like acid, lots of structure and subtle fruit and I'm fine with a little oak on my wines as long as I can't taste it or smell it!  That being said it is really nice when I find US producers that make wine with an old world sensibility. 

I tasted one such wine with Beth Reinhard a few years back when she was still working for Republic.  She didn't tell me what it was and the label gave nothing away so I was left to form an unbiased opinion based on purely on my nose and palate.  Both of which told me old world, probably right bank Bordeaux due to the softer tannins and more blue and black fruit,  not young - there was definitely secondary and some tertiary flavors - but not old either.  

When Beth revealed the origins of the wine I liked it even more...it was a Bordeaux blend made by a young female French winemaker in Sonoma; 2009 vintage and the first vintage she ever made!  But she wasn't just any young French woman as her famous father was Pierre Seillan, a revered veteran of the industry. Pierre is the current winemaker at six properties sprawled across multiple winemaking areas: Vérité and Anakota in Sonoma County, Château Lassègue and Château Vignot in Saint-Émilion, Arcanum Valadorna in Tuscany, and Bellevue Seillan in Gascony. It was at the very last property on that list – Bellevue Seillan, a family estate – that Pierre began his wine career. Pierre then did some work in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. But Pierre’s real breakout project came some time later – and on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. In the mid-1990s, Pierre came to America, to Sonoma, and created Vérité. Vérité’s wines have garnered high praise from the critics, including seven 100 point scores from Robert Parker. 

Helene & Julia

Obviously the apple doesn't fall far from the tree as the 38-year-old Hélène Seillan began her career in the wine business seven years ago while working as assistant winemaker her father's Bordeaux property where she also received her degree in Viticulture and Oenology.  She split time between France and Sonoma where she became fast friends with artist Julia Jackson of Jackson Family Estates.  

 Cenyth represents the ‘second generations’ of two families coming together to showcase an artistic expression of the place they call home, Sonoma County. Hélène Seillan creates the art inside the bottle while Julia Jackson created the art on the label. It is two women, working together to carry on a friendship that started almost 20 years ago. 

The 2009 received a 93 point rating by Robert Parker and her second vintage, which is even more gorgeous than the first, received a 94 from Parker.  Here's his review:  

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 94 points:
The 2010 Cenyth is composed of 54% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. The alcohol is 13.4% and the fruit was sourced from the same vineyards. Very Bordeaux-like (no doubt due to the lower alcohol profile), it offers up notes of red and black currants, cedarwood, spice box, vanillin, licorice, underbrush and unsmoked cigar tobacco. The wine reveals fine-grained tannins and beautiful density and richness. Compared to the 2009, which is a Medoc-like blend, the 2010 is more of a right bank St.-Emilion-styled wine. 

So if an elegant California wine made by a talented French female winemaker sounds appealing, this beautiful wine in an equally beautiful package should fit the bill!  $52

THE 12 WINES OF CHRISTMAS, 2014 Terre Nere Cuvée delle Vigne Niche Calderara Sottana Etna Bianco

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

The majestic and awe inspiring Monte Etna - Sicily Trip, October 2009

Our 3rd wine of Christmas hails from one of the most exciting wine regions on the planet...

The first time I tasted a wine from the Etna, I knew that something very special was happening in the eastern part of Sicily.  We were in New York in late January of 2009 for an Italian Trade Commission wine event and we needed a bottle of wine for our friend Lisa's birthday party. I had become intrigued by the region while researching the wine producing areas of the island for our wine and culinary tour later that year, but there was nothing from the Etna in any of our wholesaler's portfolios.  In fact, like me most had never even heard of the region until I started inquiring about the wines.  

So, needing a bottle of wine to take with us to a little party, we popped into a shop in the East Village, that actually had a decent selection of Sicilian wines and there on the shelf was a wine by one of the producers I had been researching, Terre Nere.   The 2006 Etna Rosso was under $20, which was very reasonable for anything coming from the area, so I was really excited to try it.  And needless to say we were all impressed as it was lush (a prominent quality in the 2006 vintage) and easy drinking, with a purity of fruit and hints of dark cherries, tobacco and wild herbs, it had an earthiness and texture reminiscent of Burgundy but is distinctly Sicilian. Made with Nerello Mascalese, a native grape to the region, I was hooked and needed to know more about this region.

Our friends at Uncorked had access to the Terre Nere wines and got samples brought in for all of us to try - I still remember standing at our bar tasting the entire line up with Nick Selby and how impressed we were - impressed enough for Uncorked to take the risk and bring in whatever the importer could allocate for Uncorked's annual portfolio tasting.  And arriving with the wines was the producer himself Marco de Grazia, considered one of the pioneers of the region. You can imagine how excited I was when Marco agreed to host an intimate, seated tasting of his wines at the shop as well as a few others he is importing.  Soft spoken, loquacious and extremely passionate about the region, it was wonderful to hear about his approach to wine making on the Etna, to taste the wines with him and hear his stories about what makes this area so special and still one of the most exciting wine producing regions in the world today.

Marco De Grazia presenting at Swirl

And while it is the reds from the region that first captivated me and receive the most praise from the press, the whites are truly extraordinary.  The indigenous Caricante with its crisp acidity, racy minerality and aromatic, pure, and lemon, tart apple and white peach fruit can be reminiscent of great Chablis when in the right hands.  It has excellent ageing potential, copes well with the searing summer heat and cold winters on Etna, and loves the black lava soils.  So it is the Terre Nere single vineyard white that is my 3rd wine of Christmas, but I do adore his regular Etna Bianco as well.

2014 Terre Nere Cuvée delle Vigne Niche Calderara Sottana Etna Bianco -The Calderara Sottana is a cru vineyard, producing the highest quality grapes at a high elevation. By far the rockiest cru in the appellation, in the roughest parts you can’t see the soil for the black volcanic pumice carpeting the vineyards. "Niche" is the local dialect for small plot and this particular plot is on the north side of the Etna at an elevation of 600-900 meters.   Large used French oak barrels are used for 10 months of aging and then another 3-4 months in the bottle before release.  Yellow flowers, minerals, lemon zest and a touch of smoke on the nose. Densely packed, bright and juicy, offering orchard fruit, flint and herb flavors. Finishes vibrant, complex and long. 

This is a super small production wine that would work best for a collector or anyone who loves high quality, high acid white wines from one of the most unique terroirs on the planet.  Great for a Chablis drinker or Loire Valley wine lover who wants to venture out in to new and exciting territory!  Under $35 and a steal for the level of quality here.

The amazing black volcanic soils of the Etna

Also in the shop from Terre Nere:

• 2014 Terre Nere Etna Bianco
• 2014 Terre Nere Etna Rosato
• 2013 Terre Nere Etna Rosso
• 2013 Terre Nere 'Guardiola' Etna Rosso 

THE 12 WINES OF CHRISTMAS, 2012 Alloro Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

The "villa" at Alloro Vineyards was designed to reflect owner David Nemarnik's Italian heritage.

Our second wine of Christmas was destined to be on our shelves even before we tasted it...

The first time I heard the name Alloro Vineyards I was on a plane to Portland for our first trip to Oregon in 2012.  Anytime you are headed to wine country, anywhere in the world, people have opinions on where you "must go".  As this guy spouted off about Alloro to his friend, I didn't pay much attention to him, but I did file the name in the back of my brain for future reference.

 As you drive down Highway 99 from Portland into the Willamette Valley, the first AVA you hit is Chehalem Mountain with the town of Sherwood marking the entrance to wine country.  Blue and white signs along the road announce which wineries are where and your heart starts to beat a bit faster just thinking about all of the delicious wine that awaits you.  And as we came through Sherwood on that initial drive down through the valley, one of the very first blue signs I see is for Alloro Vineyards.  Including the location of the winery into that file in the back of my brain, we drove on through Newberg, then Dundee and Lafayette, stopping finally in Carlton to check into our apartment.

That evening at dinner James Moises is talking about other wineries that have approached him about distributing their wines in New Orleans.  Again the name Alloro comes up and I realize that after the third mention in a day, I need to pay attention.  So James ends up visiting the winery the day we leave the valley and is incredibly impressed with the place, the wines and the people.  

Yes, he picked up the wines and it was love at first sip for all of us.  Fast-forward to 3 years later and the wine is still one of our favorites with the 2012 holding a spot on our shelves as well as our wine list.  And I can honestly tell you that anyone who tries it at the bar, more often than not, walks out with a bottle!

The 2010 was the first vintage we tasted - we knew then how special it was!

2012 Alloro Pinot Noir - A terroir driven wine displaying ripe black cherries, candied cherries, and rose petal, with  subtle hints of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg.  This is a fuller bodied wine that reflects the vintage with lively acidity, and very broad and fine texture that lingers nicely from the palate.  1,600 Cases Produced.

This under $40 gem would be a great bottle to introduce your California Pinot Noir drinker to an Oregon wine.  2012 was a warmer vintage making this wine a bolder style than what is typical of the winery and the region.   And if you'd like to try it first just grab a glass of it on your next visit, I can almost bet you'll leave with a bottle or two...

Carol & Maya enjoying a glass of wine on the patio at Alloro during Swirl's Artisan Oregon Wine Tour, October 2013

The 12 Wines of Christmas, Chateau la Font du Loup Cotes du Rhone

A fun way to introduce you some of our favorite wines in the store that we believe would make great gifts!

Chateau La Font du Loup in Chateauneuf-du-Pape has been in the Melia family since 1942

Our first wine of Christmas is a lovely Cotes du Rhone with a great story...

Thanks to Matt Lirette of Lirette Selections, we met Anne Charlotte Melia this past summer in New Orleans just before we left for Europe.  It was perfect timing - when she returned to France the following week we would be in the Rhone Valley and she invited us to visit at her family winery in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Chateau La Font du Loup (the fountain of the wolves), gets its name from the  ancient natural spring that flows through the estate.  Legend has it that wolves from nearby Mont Ventoux would stop to drink at the spring as they made their way to the Provençal plains. The Château was acquired by the Melia family in 1942 and today, Anne-Charlotte, the granddaughter of the founder, and her husband, Laurent, oversee the estate and the winemaking.

La Font du Loup, the fountain of the wolves is an ancient natural spring that flows through the property.

We visited Charlotte in June and were very impressed by the elegance of her wines that she attributes to their estate's unique terroir. Located at one of the highest points in Châteaneuf-du-Pape, Château La Font du Loup, has 20 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, including holdings in the La Crau and Font du Loup. Planted on a north facing slope with mostly sandy soil and vines that reach 100 years old, the vineyards are located in one of the coolest spots in the appellation which allows for a slow ripening of the grapes.  As for her part, Charlotte's minimalist approach in the cellar ensures that the wines are never over-extracted, are vinified at cool temperatures and that no new oak is used.  The results are wines that exhibit a purity and freshness not often found in the region.

The 2014 Chateau La Font du Loup Cotes du Rhone is made with a blend of 50 year old Grenache and Syrah that is hand harvest with a meticulous selection of grapes.  The nose gives red and black fruit aromatics along with lavender floral notes. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and fresh with silky smooth tannins. Black cherry liqueur, ripe black plum and black raspberry flavors linger in this wine that exhibits considerable elegance and finesse.

So if you are looking for a great gift under $20 that expresses the elegant touch of a female winemaker from one of the most famous and approachable wine regions of France, this is your wine!

Also in stock from Chateau La Font du Loup:

• 2014  Chateau La Font du Loup Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
• 2014 Domaine Sarrail & Font du Loup Rosée 
• 2013  Chateau La Font du Loup Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition

Visiting Domaine Fondreche, Southern Rhone at its Best!

The Ventoux is a mecca for wine and cycling enthusiasts!

This past summer we deviated from our usual routine of spending our entire vacation in Italy and spent time in Southern France.  It was a magical week in a beautiful village at the base of the mighty Mont Ventoux spent cycling, immersing ourselves in the local culture and enjoying the village markets from which we cooked the most delicious meals in our little Provencal house.  We had such an amazing time that we've already booked another trip there next year and are hoping to schedule a customer tour there in the near future.

The village of Bedoin, located at the base of the Ventoux.

Why the Ventoux you ask?  Because it is a wine and cycling mecca!   People (including us!) come from all over the world to attempt to pedal up the "giant of France" one of the epic climbs of the Tour de France.  And it also happens that one of my favorite producers was a mere 10 miles from where we were staying.  The vineyards of Domaine Fondreche provide a breathtaking and intimidating view of the Ventoux and produce a line of highly rated Rhone blends in the hands of winemaker Sebastien Vincenti.

                 Winemaker Sebastian Vincenti talking about the unique soil type at Fondreche.

Domaine de Fondreche is a 38 hectare property in a unique part of the Ventoux.  The vineyards sit higher up on a plateau than any other in the appellation providing different soils and geographic positioning found nowhere else.  Sebastian also farms organically, planting the local varieties of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre in the clay, limestone and silex soils.  The syrah at Fondereche is a special clone called Serine.  It is described as the ancient, local variety of Syrah, and it is markedly different from modern selections. Serine grapes are more oval in shape, with lots of space in the bunch and has lots of violet and perfume; very aromatic.  The Cinsault is used exclusively for his amazing Provence-style rosé, no red wine is made from it.

The Cinsault, used only for his Provence-style rosé.

The old vine Syrah,  a special clone called Serine that is described as the ancient, local variety.

Because of our relationship with the winery and the importer, we were able to get our hands on a few cases of his reds and rosé at a reduced price.  We also carry his mineral driven Rhone-style white, a refreshing yet full bodied blend of Grenache Blanc,  Roussanne and Clairette.   These are all super wines that are beautiful expressions of the unique terroir of Domaine Fondreche and the Ventoux.  See the ratings and pricing below!

Our tasting lineup at the winery.

2011  Domaine de Fondreche Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Nadal, $25.99
Rating: 93, Robert Parker
Drink 2013 - 2024
Along the same lines, quality wise, the 2011 Cotes du Ventoux Nadal, a blend of 45% Syrah, 45% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, (Syrah and Mourvedre aged in barrel, the Grenache in concrete tank) exhibits gorgeously pure notes of creme de cassis, currants, licorice, sweet oak and chocolate that flow to a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered profile on the palate. Upfront, texture and full-flavored, with mouth filling amounts of fruit, it is a knockout effort that will deliver the goods for over a decade. 

2011  Domaine de Fondreche Cotes du Ventoux Cuvee Persia, $30.99
Rating: 92  Robert Parker
Drink 2015 - 2025
The 2011 Cotes du Ventoux Persia is a beauty! A blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, aged in a combination of small barrels and demi-muids, it offers a stunning bouquet of cassis, vanilla, coffee and hints of flowers to go with a full-bodied, layered and beautifully textured profile on the palate. This terroir always shows beautiful purity, freshness and focus, and this vintage is no exception. Benefiting from a decant, it will ideally be given another year or so in the cellar, and enjoyed over the following decade. 

2014 Domaine de Fondrèche Ventoux Rosé, $18.50
Rating: 89 Vinous Media
Drink 2015 - 2017
Pale onion skin color. Pungent red berry and orange pith aromas are complicated by hints of dried flowers and succulent herbs. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering spicy redcurrant and raspberry flavors and a touch of tarragon. Closes with gentle grip and good persistence, leaving a suave floral note behind.

Holiday Pumpkin Roll

Dessert at my parent's house during the holidays presents a dilemma as we have to chose between my mother's fresh pumpkin and apple pies and my sister-in-law's homemade pumpkin rolls. But since we are all such good dessert-loving-sugar-addicts, everyone take a small piece of all three ("small" being defined very differently by each of us), topping off the pies with a little whipped cream or ice cream. I always save the roll for last, the moist pumpkin spiced cake with its silky cream filling melt in your mouth and make it the perfect end to the perfect meal! Thanks Missy for sharing your recipe!

Ingredients:
Cake
-3 eggs
-1 cup sugar
-2/3 cup pumpkin
-3/4 cup all-purpose flour
-1 teaspoon baking powder
-1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
*you will also need a clean dish towel sprinkled with powdered sugar to keep from sticking)

Cream Cheese
-1 cup powdered sugar
-1 8-ounce package of cream cheese, softened
-2 tablespoons butter
-3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
-Powdered sugar for topping (optional)

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. In a large bowl, mix together eggs, sugar and pumpkin.
2. In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder, and cinnamon.
3. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir until well blended.
4. Line a 10 1/2" by 15" jelly roll or cookie sheet with wax paper that extends over the lip of the pan. Pour the batter onto the cookie sheet, spreading evenly.
5. Bake 12-15 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
6. Prepare a clean kitchen towel by sprinkling heavily with powdered sugar.
7. After baking, turn the cookie sheet onto the towel, the cake should slide out onto the towel. Keeping the wax paper, start at one end and roll up the cake up lengthwise into the towel. Cool 30-40 minutes.
8. While the cake is cooling, make the filling, by stirring together the cream cheese, powdered sugar, vanilla and butter. Mix well.
9. After the roll has cooled, unroll it, removed wax paper and spread the filling evenly over the cake. Roll back up without the towel. Wrap in foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour, or until filling is firm.
10. Sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving if desired.