Drink Cru Beaujolais

As a wine professional, I have to say that the pre-covid days of Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the US were lost on me. But you have to hand it to George Duboeuf, the marketing genius who took a local celebration of the harvest and turned in in to an international event to sell more wine. You know the Duboeuf bottles, the ones with the flowers on the labels that you'll see stacked in grocery stores from November to January? Made with Gamay juice that's has literally been bottled only six to eight weeks after the grapes were picked, the result is basically under developed alcoholic grape juice that will get worse as it sits in the bottle. And unfortunately Americans have been led to believe that this represents Beaujolais as a region as a whole.

Cru Beaujolais is the stuff I get excited about - in fact they are some of my favorite red wines and are in good supply throughout the year. Each with their own AOC, cru Beaujolais comes from 10 named villages within Beaujolais and represent the region's very best vineyards. Wines from Morgon, Brouilly, Julienas and more have their own very distinct personalities and offer high quality, structured, age worthy alternatives to Beaujolais Nouveau and are becoming increasingly popular with Pinot Noir drinkers looking for something more friendly and affordable.

Moving from north to south on the map, the crus begin just below the Bourgogne’s Mâconnais region. The following descriptions of each cru is from the Inter Beaujolais website who has some amazing terroir maps and information.

Saint Amour: The Saint-Amour AOC is located in the commune by the same name, in Saône-et-Loire. Its mixed soil includes granite, schist and clay, producing wines with two different characters. One is light and easy-to-drink, with aromas of iris or violet and even raspberry. The other is powerful and complex, offering aromas of kirsch and spice. Soils: PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (48%), GRANITE (22%), BLUE STONE (9,9%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY; Elevation: 280 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Billards, Saint-Amour (2018) THE estate to try is hands down Domaine des Billards and we are lucky enough to have them available to us.

Juliénas: Stretching across four communes, mainly in the Rhône with a small part in the Saône-et-Loire, the Juliénas cru benefits from excellent sunshine exposure. The average altitude varies, starting at 230 metres and reaching 430 metres in the far northwest. The AOC definitely has one of the most diverse soils in the Beaujolais: schist, diorite and sandstone as well as clay. Soils:BLUE STONE (42%), GRANITE (3%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (29%), SCHIST (14%); Elevation: 330 meters.

Our selection, Domaine Chignard Juliénas Beauvernay (2018) As ardent defenders of traditional Beaujolais methods, the Chignards take a minimalist approach in both the vineyards and the cellar and both father & son are considered passionate perfectionists.

Chenas: Chénas is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It is named after the ancient oak forests formerly covering the commune, cleared by the Gallo-Romans then by the local monks by order of Philip V of France, known as ‘The Tall’. The vines stretch across rolling hills and valleys. These gamay grapes express notes of small black fruit, peony and spices highlighted by mellow tannins. Soils: GRANITE (47%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (49%); Elevation: 260 meters.

Our selection, Domaine Thillardon Chenas Les Carrieres (2015) -organic/biodynamic - Thillardon makes very clean natural wines, employing organic and biodynamic principles in the vineyard, limited use of sulfur and semi-carbonic maceration

Moulin-A-Vent: The windmill (moulin) – standing at 278 meters, surrounded by vineyards – is classified as a historical monument. It embodies the prestige and pride of the small appellation, straddles two communes, and benefits from a homogeneous terroir. After a few years, Moulin-à-Vent wines develop aromas of iris, wilted roses, spice and ripe fruit with notes of undergrowth and truffles, providing tannic, structured wines. When younger, they are floral and fruity, with violet and cherry aromas. Soils: GRANITE, LIMESTONE, MARL, SANDSTONE; Elevation: 260 meters

Our selection: Chateau Terrière Moulin a Vent Cuvée de la Lure (2016) - organic - The Château de la Terrière has stood in the village of Cercié since the 14th century, in the heart of Beaujolais region. It is one of the oldest estates in the region.

Fleurie: The Fleurie appellation has the geographical particularity of sloping down from a range of peaks including the Fût d’Avenas, Col de Durbize, Col des Labourons and Pic Raymont. The hill, called La Madone, towers over the appellation, offering a breath-taking panorama of all the vineyards. Fleurie wines are, without a doubt, the most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Soils: PINK GRANITE (90%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (8%) Elevation: 340 meters

Our selections: Domaine Chignard Les Moriers Fleurie (2018) and Clos de la Roilette Fleurie (2019), Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive (2019) These are 2 of the most iconic producers of the region.

Chiroubles: The Chiroubles cru is located north of the Rhône, in the heart of the village by the same name. The AOC is nestled on hillsides arranged in granite cirques whose series of amphitheatre-like valleys provide the vines with optimal exposure. These are the highest vines in Beaujolais (often on slopes with inclines over 30%), a guarantee of cool temperatures in the face of the current climate change. The Chiroubles growers are often considered “heroic”, given how physically demanding and meticulous the work is on the rugged hillsides. Soils: 100% PINK GRANITE; Elevation: 410 meters

Our selections: Daniel Bouland Chiroubles Chatenay (2018) Daniel Bouland makes some of the most old school and expressive wines in the whole of the region. Guy Breton Chiroubles (2018) 1.5L One of the Gang of Four producers who appreciate and cultivate old vines, apply organic farming practices, avoid the use of sulphur, let natural ferments do their magic and help the terroir express itself through minimal intervention.

Morgon: The Morgon cru, overlooked by Mont du Py, is the largest of the Beaujolais crus. The famous Côte du Py is made up of decomposed shale. The appellation’s wines offer aromas of stone fruit like sour cherries, with notes of violet and kirsch. Their delicate tannins promise optimal ageing. Soil: GRANITE (52%), BLUE STONE (37%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (11%) Elevation: 310 meters

Our selection: Jean-Marc Burgaud Cote du Py (2018) Considered an unmissable domain Jean-Marc Burgaud has been producing beautiful and ageable Beaujolais, especially Côte de Py for almost 30 years.
Daniel Bouland Morgon Corcelette (2018) Daniel Bouland makes some of the most old school and expressive wines in the whole of the region.
Marcel LaPierre Morgon (2018) One of the Gang of Four producers who appreciate and cultivate old vines, apply organic farming practices, avoid the use of sulphur, let natural ferments do their magic and help the terroir express itself through minimal intervention.

Régnié The village of Régnié-Durette is especially noteworthy for its church with two spires (built in 1867 based on the design by Pierre Bossan, the architect who later built the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière). The vines are planted on slopes at an average of 350 metres in altitude, facing southeast. This appellation’s wines are light, easy-to-drink and rich in mineral elements, very aromatic, maturing quickly. Soils: GRANITE (64%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (34%); Elevation: 350 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Braves Régnié (2018) The elevation, soil and south facing slope makes for Beaujolais with penetrating, lip- and tongue-staining color and gorgeous concentration.

Brouilly: Brouilly, the southernmost and most extensive of the Beaujolais crus, stretches out at the foot of Mont Brouilly and its chapel (Notre-Dame aux Raisins). The fruit-driven (plum, small red fruit) wines, sometimes with mineral notes, express the gamay bouquet perfectly. Brouilly wines can be enjoyed in their youth. Soils: PINK GRANITE (46%), BLUE STONE (4%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY, SHALE; Elevation: 290 meters

Our selection: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Vielles Vignes (2018) Jean-Claude Lapalu is one of the most respected and revered growers in Beaujolais and a leader in the Natural Wine movement in France.

Côte de Brouilly: At the summit of Mont Brouilly – the veritable emblem of the appellation – the Côte de Brouilly vines cover a small area across four communes: Saint-Lager, Odenas, Quincié-en-Beaujolais and Cercié. The wines are generous with delicate tannins and aromas evocative of pepper, small macerated black fruit and mineral notes. Soils: BLUE STONE (40%), GRANITE (24%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (12%); Elevation: 300 meters

Our selection: Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2017); Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2018) 1.5L Ever since taking over the family domaine in 1988, Nicole Chanrion works all 6.5 hectares by herself, from pruning the vineyards and driving the tractors to winemaking and bottling, all without bravado or fanfare.

Other Tasty Beaujolais Treats:
Domaine Domaine Chasselay Je T'Aime Mais J'ai Soif (2019)

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc (2018)

Domaine de la Madone BV Le Perreon (2018)

Château Thivin Beaujolais-Villages Rosé