An offering of the most coveted, highly reviewed grower champagnes of Cedric Bouchard
Beth Ribblett
“These remain some of the most spectacular wines being made anywhere in the world, and are well worth the effort of finding them. Frankly, I can't think of too many wines I would rather drink.” - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
When Cedric Bouchard began making wine under his own label “Roses de Jeanne” in 2000 his vision was very different from the traditional approach to making Champagne. Instead of following the protocol of the times prescribed by the big houses - the of blending varieties, vintages and vineyard sites to produce wine that tastes the same every year – Cedric wanted to maximize the sense of terroir from his vineyard sites by producing single-variety, single-vintage and single-parcel wines. Meticulous about the process from vine to wine, he chose to farm organically, using no herbicides or pesticides; no chapitalization, filtering, fining or cold stabilization and with zero dosage. While many grower producers are using this approach today, it was Cedric who championed the practice in the Aube years ago, and in doing so he earned much respect as revolutionary young winemaker.
The winery is in the village of Celles-sur-Ource, in the southern most area of Champagne, nestled in a valley between 2 rivers. The valley continues south into Burgundy - to the Côte d’Or and onto Chablis. As a result, the terroir with its Kimmeridgian soils, is more similar to that of Burgundy than the northern regions of Champagne. This proximity to Burgundy, where for centuries wine production has been focused on small plots of land planted with single varieties, along with his viticultural training in Beaune, have been a major influence and source of inspiration for Cedric’s production of lieu-dit Champagnes.
Obsessive, meticulous, a perfectionist in every sense of the word – the quality of Cedric’s wines mirror his production style and are unlike any other champagnes being produced. As Antonio Galloni mentions in his latest write up, “these are quite simply some of the most singular wines made anywhere in the world”.
All that being said, this kind of quality does not come cheap but when you compare the pricing to an equivalent from a big house they are a BARGAIN and we are incredibly fortunate to have these small production wines available to us. Prices range from $70 to $175 an * means they are extremely limited and available on a first come first serve basis – please email me personally if you are interested, beth@swirlnola.com
The following information is from a recent article by Antonio Galloni/Vinous (one of few US review sites that I respect), “Champagne Redefined” | MARCH 19, 2020. For further reading see Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, “Champagne’s Reclusive Revolutionary” | The Wine Advocate | Issue 244 August 2019 - Parker is as complimentary with his reviews as Galloni.
2012 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Côte de Bechalin La Parcelle
Côte De Bechalin, Champagne
Drinking window: 2019 – 2029
$97.50
The 2012 Blanc de Noirs Côte de Bechalin La Parcelle is bright, precise and beautifully lifted. Orchard fruit, mint, white pepper and floral notes lend brightness. This is a decidedly taut, vibrant Blanc de Noirs, especially considering the vintage. Gracious, medium in body and supremely inviting, the Côte de Bechalin is another stellar wine in this set of new releases. No dosage. Vinous 93 pts
*2013 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules
Celles Sur Ource Champagne
Drinking window: 2017 – 2023
$109.50
The 2013 Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is one of the most accessible of these wines today. Creamy, open-knit and gracious, the Ursules is graced with tremendous purity in its fruit and soft contours that make the wine easy to drink and enjoy, even at this early stage. The Ursules doesn't quite have the pedigree of the top wines in this range, but it is hugely enjoyable right now. Vinous 93 pts
*2014 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée
La Bolorée, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2026
$148.99
As it often is, the Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée (Pinot Blanc) is the most complete of these Champagnes, and that is saying a lot this year. Quite simply, the 2014 Bolorée is an utterly mesmerizing Champagne. A kaleidoscope of aromas, flavors and textures takes over the senses. Extravagant in its beauty, the Bolorée will thrill readers lucky enough to find it. In tasting, the Bolorée offers a level of richness that recalls Pinot, but with the brightness and focus of Pinot Blanc. Non-dosé. Vinous 98 pts
*2014 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Rosé de Saignée Creux d'Enfer
Creux D’enfer, Champagne
Drinking window: 2018 – 2026
$174.99
The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Creux d’Enfer Rosé is another utterly magical wine in this range. Precise and sculpted in the glass, with fabulous energy, the Creux d'Enfer is sublime. Orange peel, mint, cranberry, rose petal are some of the notes that lift from this exquisitely perfumed Champagne. In this vintage, the whole clusters aren't as evident as they often are. Above all else, the Creux d'Enfer is one of those wines that ascends into the realm of the sublime. Non-dosé. Vinous 97 pts
2014 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Ursules
Les Ursules, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2026
$109.50
The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Ursules will leave readers searching for superlatives. It is every bit that good. Cut, precision and focus are the signatures. Creamy and resonant on the palate, the Ursules offers a dazzling expression of Pinot Noir. Next to the Presle, the Ursules carries a bit more weight and overall structure. in this tasting, it is a total knock-out. Non-dosé. Vinous 96 pts
*2014 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Presle
Celles Sur Ource, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2026
$139.99
The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Presle presents an especially focused expression of Pinot. White orchard fruit, mint, and crushed and white flowers open up first, followed by a rush of small red berries and hints of smoke, crushed flowers and earthiness. This mid-weight, chiseled Pinot needs at least a few years to soft, but it is very pretty. Non-dosé. Vinous 95 pts
2014 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé
La Haute Lemblé, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2026
$119.99
Majestic and soaring in the glass, with remarkable purity, the 2014 Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé captures all of the beauty that makes Cédric Bouchard's Champagnes so alluring. The 2014 is bright, pure and focused, with mid-weight, sculpted personality that reminds me of the 2004. This is such a tremendous expression of Chardonnay. Non-dosé. Vinous 97 pts
*2015 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée
La Bolorée, Champagne
Drinking window: 2021 – 2030
$148.99
The 2015 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée, 100% Pinot Blanc from 50+ year-old vines on limestone, is a wine of explosive power and resonance. In most years, the Bolorée needs a few years in bottle to come together. I imagine that will be the case here as well. Even so, the pedigree is evident. A wine of stunning beauty, the 2015 hits all the senses with layers of mineral-infused orchard fruit. Floral overtones develop later, adding layers of dimension. Wonderfully rich and deeply expressive, the 2015 is simply magnificent. The biggest challenge will be finding it, as there are just 1,000 bottles to go around. No dosage. Vinous 97+ pts
2015 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé
La Haute Lemblé, Champagne
Drinking window: 2021 – 2030
$119.99
The 2015 Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lemblé is one of the very best editions I have ever tasted. Beautifully focused, the 2015 dazzles with its richness, power and tension. A mélange of crushed rocks, mint, white pepper, smoke and citrus infuses the 2015 with crystalline intensity. The purity of the Chardonnay fruit is just remarkable. All of the elements build to a heady crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. Racy and explosive, the 2015 Haute Lemblé dazzles from the very first taste. A few years of cellaring will help the 2015 be at its very best, although it is utterly breathtaking even in the early going. No dosage. Vinous 98 pts
*2015 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Presle
Celles Sur Ource, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2030
$139.99
The 2015 Blanc de Noirs Presle emerges from a tiny parcel planted with ten different Burgundy clones of Pinot Noir. Brisk, nuanced and finely sculpted to the core, the Presle is pure class. Orchard fruit, red plum, mint and wild flowers are all beautifully sketched. The breadth of Pinot comes through in the wine’s textural resonance and overall feel. Tropical overtones add an exotic flair to this wonderfully distinctive and inviting Champagne from Cédric Bouchard. I especially admire the wine’s brisk, energetic feel and super-precise expression of Pinot. No dosage. Vinous 95 pts
2015 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Ursules
Les Ursules, Champagne
Drinking window: 2020 – 2027
$109.50
The 2015 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is fascinating to taste next to the other Pinot Champagnes, all of which are brighter. Here, the weight and gravitas are very much front and center. Red cherry, kirsch, plum, mint and spice all blossom in the glass. The Ursules needs air to shine. A bit of time in the glass really brings out the creaminess and volume of the Pinot fruit. This is such an inviting and expressive Champagne. No dosage. Vinous 94 pts
2016 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine
Val Vilaine, Champagne
Drinking window: 2018 – 2026
$69.99
The 2016 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is gorgeous in this vintage. Ample and creamy on the palate, with tremendous textural richness, the 2016 dazzles from start to finish. I can't remember a vintage of the Val Vilaine that was this complete and harmonious. Moreover, the Val Vilaine is a terrific introduction to Cédric Bouchard and his wines, especially for readers who can't find some of the more smaller-production cuvées. Non-dosé. Vinous 93 pts
2017 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine
Val Vilaine, Champagne
Drinking window: 2019 – 2029
$69.99
Bouchard’s Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine is especially strong in 2017 and also a fabulous introduction to this range of magnificent Champagnes. Beautifully resonant and inviting, the 2017 is so gorgeous. Pear, baked apple, dried flowers, mint and spice all build as the 2017 opens up in the glass. More than anything else, the 2017 impresses with its poise and raciness. The slightly reductive character found in some previous releases is not present in the 2017, and that really lets the purity of the fruit shine through. Bouchard does not push this site to the degree he does most of his other vineyards, so the Val Vilaine doesn’t quite offer the complexity of the top wines here, but words really can’t do justice to just how delicious the 2017 is. Don’t miss it. No dosage. Vinous 93 pts