Saperavi, My Shiny New Thing...

Shiny things syndrome – I have it. But not in the way that many people do. Mine, of course, is focused on wine; after being in this business for over 15 years I am too easily bored and am constantly searching for new varieties, regions, terroirs or production methods to excite me. For example we have some amazing new rosés in right now but the one that makes my eyes light up is the Gramona Mart Rosado. Why you ask? Because it’s made with the rare Xarel·lo Vermell grape harvested only on flower days of the biodynamic calendar - interesting AND delicious, what’s not to love?!? So when some shiny new thing does happen to capture my attention I tend to become a little obsessed, at least until the next one comes along…

The current object of my affection is the Saperavi grape – I literally can’t get enough of it. Just the fact that it’s a red wine is strange enough for me. My consumption is usually white or rosé, only drinking red when food calls for it. So with all of the wine I taste/drink on a daily basis, what is it about this grape from Georgia that has me this enamored?

A lot….

It’s from the oldest wine growing region of the world. Saperavi is one of over 550 native varieties from the Republic of Georgia. It’s the main red grape of the wine growing region of Kakheti which is located about half way between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. A recent archaeological excavation in 2017 unearthed a Georgian clay vessels dating back 8,000 years, making Georgia the oldest wine-producing country in the world.

It’s a teinturier grape - a red wine grape with dark skins and dark flesh. In contrast, regular red wine grapes have dark skins, but clear flesh. Because of that, it’s super dark and inky, lots of pigment - even when alcohol levels are low – and teinturier grapes are often used as colorants for lighter red wines. The name Saperavi literally means dye or paint.

It’s authentic - Saperavi originated in this region of Kakheti where the majority of wines are produced in the ancient method of using Qvevri, large clay vessels, buried underground for temperature stabilization. The production style of the wines has changed little throughout its 8,000 year history – whole cluster fermentation is the norm, native yeast are almost always used and little to no sulfites are added to the wines.

It’s delicious – the natural winemaking style that is traditional in Georgia allows the true nature of the grape to shine. The deep rich color is complimented by engaging flavors of ripe dark fruits, cassis and spice, with some earthy, smoky and tobacco notes.

Curious? We have 3 different Saperavi in the store right now at different price points – from young and fresh to super elegant, all are fantastic examples that express the uniqueness of the grape. Try a bottle or two, hopefully you’ll understand my obsession!

Teleda Orgo Saperavi Dila-o (2018) $15.99 - 100% Saperavi, fermented in Qvevri, wild yeasts, unfiltered, very low sulfites. A young, fresh introduction to the variety - brambly fruit, earthy, spicy and slightly smoky. Medium bodied.

Chona's Marani, Saperavi (2018) $30.99 - 100% Saperavi, Practicing organic, hand-picked grapes fermented in Qvevri, native yeast, unfined, unfiltered. All wine production is traditionally accompanied by Georgian polyphonic songs. Black cherry, red currants, meaty withbalanced tannins - medium to full bodied. Will really shine with some beef, lamb or pork.

Nine Oaks Estate, Saperavi, $42.99 - 100% Saperavi, all hand-harvested fruit, farmed organically (certification to come), native yeast fermentation, without filtering or any added sulfites. Deep purple in color, this wine is full-bodied with dense flavors of black cherry and plum. The iron rich soils impart a savory quality of olives, red meat, and spicy pepper with big yet relaxed tannins and a long finish .