Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Finesse and Elegance on the Etna

A year or so ago I did a post on one of my favorite Champagne producers, Cedric Bouchard. The wines had been in New Orleans for a while but no one here really knew the producer or the Champagnes. So besides the purchases at Swirl and a few other fine wine shops, they sat in Bizou’s warehouse. Antonio Galloni from Vinous is a huge fan as well so I used his reviews for the write up on why you should buy these wines. About a month after I did the post, I started getting calls literally from all over the country. People could not believe these highly coveted, small production wines were actually available since most markets sell out of them immediately. Needless to say, we made a lot of people happy and cleaned out the warehouse…

So now I’m going to sing the praises of another of my favorite producers, Tenuta Delle Terre Nere from Sicily’s Mount Etna. I’ve talked a lot about Marc de Grazia and his success as an importer – in fact we are featuring wines from De Grazia Imports in our tasting this Friday – and of my early obsession with his wines so I though it was time to bring attention to what his winery is doing on the Etna. If you’re smart you’ll call me about these wines before the rest of the country gets word that these are still available… I’ve focused on a handful of favorites but there are other crus and other vintages available as well in small quantities. Just ask.

“No other winery has done as much for the popularity and success of Mount Etna as Terre Nere; nearly any producer in the region will offer up this same opinion. Almost two decades ago, importer Marc de Grazia set out to prove that the high-altitude vineyards, diverse volcanic soils and ancient vines found on this still-active volcano could produce world-class wines of longevity. As a result of his success, a rush of producers from Sicily and abroad have worked to carve out their own piece of Mount Etna over the last ten years. Through it all, Terre Nere remains at the head of the pack, and Marc de Grazia continues to expand his portfolio by adding choice pieces of terroir, while also pushing the limits of what his original crus are capable of. “

Marc started the Terre Nere winery in 2002 from 30 hectares of vineyards divided in 10 parcels over four crus. The vines are between 50 to 100 years old except for 6 hectares of recently planted vines and several self-rooted plots over 130 years old that are famous for surviving phylloxera. The red wines are Nerello Mascalese, a variety known for producing wines of finesse and elegance and the whites are based on Carricante a grape that makes highly mineral, piercing wines.

500,000 years of volcanic eruptions have created endless soil variation in neighboring plots of land, many of them radical. The soil at Terre Nere is mostly volcanic ash speckled by black pumice and peppered with abundant volcanic rock; to call it ‘rocky’ is putting it mildly! The weather variations in the area are crazy and the vineyard are exposed and therefore open to the cooling and drying effects of the wind. This is particularly important at Terre Nere because the harvest usually takes place in the later part of the fall, meaning that the grapes are in their most fragile state when the weather ‘breaks’ its autumn pattern. The aridness of the climate helps to dry out the grapes after rain and moisture threaten mold. But above all else, the it is the extraordinary elevation that creates dramatic temperature variations between night and day, making the wines of Etna fine and elegant, devoid of the heat and overripe flavors that usually define southern wines.

Marc's vision of the Etna DOC is as a region on par with the Côte de Nuit region of Burgundy with cru areas resulting from differences in soil types, altitude, exposure, and micro-climate. Tenuta delle Terre Nere owns vineyards in six crus – Calderara Sottana, San Lorenzo, Bocca d’Orzo, Santo Spirito, Guardiola, and Feudo di Mezzo. Ever since the first vintage (2002) it vinifies, ages, bottles and labels its crus accordingly. He was the first to believe in the importance of expressing the character of each cru in its purity. All of these properties are located on the northern slopes of the volcano, in the townships of Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo.

Marc’s approach is one of minimal intervention, using certified organic practices, and an almost indiscernible use of oak, allowing the expression of the true character of the wine. And what a beautiful expression it is! Unbelievably fresh with incredible aromatics, finessed tannins and a weightless quality reminiscent of Burgundy and Nebbiolo, the wines truly speak for themselves.

Here are the reviews from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous Media

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo, $69.99, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

As the 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo blows off a bit of youthful reduction, an inviting bouquet forms, mixing violets and roses with hints of white pepper and dusty strawberry. This is seamlessly soft and polished with medium weight, ushering in floral-tinged red and hints of blue fruit which give way to sweet herbal notes. Residual acids keep the expression remarkably fresh even as youthful tannins saturate deeply, leaving bitter notes of cranberry and cherry pits to linger. The 2018 San Lorenzo has the feel of a sleeping giant, requiring a few years of cellaring to truly awaken.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo, $53.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

The 2018 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is dark and rich in the glass, wafting up with notes of cherry sauce, plums and Indian spice. It is deeply textural and velvety in feel, with ripe black instead of red notes, lifted by cooling mineral and minty herbs. There’s an almost balsamic twang to the finish, as this leaves the palate drenched in primary fruit and grippy tannins. The Feudo di Mezzo is a bit of a bruiser in 2018, yet a few years of cellaring should help bring it into focus.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Moganazzi, $53.50, 94 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

A captivating display of black cherry and raspberry encased in a cloud of ashen earth, incense and crushed dried roses lifts up from the remarkably pretty 2018 Etna Rosso Moganazzi. It’s silky in texture, energized by vibrant acidity, as violet-tinged wild berry fruits and sweet spices cascade across the senses. This is so graceful but also packed full of unseen depths, and the palate aches with youthful tension and poise throughout the long, dramatic finale. You can’t help but return to the glass over and over again. The Moganazzi hails from steeply terraced 80-year-old vines on the north side of Etna, at roughly 700 meters in elevation. It’s a showstopper.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito, $53.50, 91 pts

Drinking window: 2021 - 2026

The 2018 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito is incredibly pretty. Crushed stone gives way to wild strawberries, then roses and, finally, nuances of sweet spice. It’s silky in texture, motivated by juicy acidity, with ripe wild berry fruits complemented by sweet inner violet notes. Energy remains high as this tapers off with a twang of licorice and shades of lavender. I wouldn’t expect the 2018 to be one of the longest-lived renditions of Santo Spirito, but it’s certain to provide a lot of pleasure over the medium term.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, $117, 96 pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2034

Take your time with the 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, and you’ll be rewarded. While it’s understated and pretty upon pouring, with hints of floral-laced strawberry and rose hips, further coaxing unlocks a more seductive display, as balsamic-tinged black cherries and grilled citrus give way to fresh mint and white smoke. It’s velvety in texture yet lifted and feminine in feel, showcasing mineral-tinged black fruits and exotic spices. This gains a charming inner sweetness toward the close, as vibrant acids keep the expression fresh in spite of the grippy tannins and tart berries that have completely saturated the senses. Don Peppino boasts amazing depth in 2018, yet while there is already pleasure to be found today, the best is still to come.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana, $67.50, 94+ pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2032

The 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana keeps you at the edge of the glass, taking in its earthy yet gorgeous bouquet. Waves of crushed ashen stone, peppery herbs, blackberries and roses lift up effortlessly. This is silky in texture, with an unbelievably pure and vivid display of red fruits laced with salty minerals, as brisk acids create a sweet-and-sour tug of tension toward the close. The cheeks pucker, saturated with youthful tannin, as the 2018 Calderara Sottana clamps down hard, leaving only a hint of licorice and tart red berries in its wake. Close your eyes, and you might think this was a young, top-shelf Serralunga Barolo.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2017 Etna Rosso Moganazzi, $50, 92+pts

Drinking window: 2020 - 2025

Bright red-ruby. Clean, very mineral and floral, with juicy red/black cherry aromas and flavors. A refined, mineral wine that is very well balanced and precise. This clocks in at 14.5% alcohol, but doesn’t taste warm at all. In fact, I like this wine’s austere, mineral-tinged, long finish. Will likely improve in the bottle.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2017 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana, $117, 93+pts

Drinking window: 2023 - 2029

Bright red. Pungent flinty and floral nuances to the red cherry and raspberry jam aromas on the inviting nose. Enters rich, dense and almost sweet, with very precise sweet spice and red fruit flavors lingering nicely. An underlying green note remains in the background and adds complexity. Finishes with noteworthy but balanced tannic bite and plenty of freshness on the long juicy finish. A very complex wine with a beautiful nose; the tannins though are on the tough side as in many of these Terre Nere 2017 reds. A very good wine of noteworthy promise, my suggestion is to cellar this for another 4-6 years for full enjoyment.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2015 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana, $64.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2020 - 2028

Vivid medium dark red. Piercing aromas of red cherry, minerals and soy sauce. The flavors are similar to the aromas, with an underlying element of crushed rock that adds a welcome saline note contributing freshness. Very mineral round and smooth, this is atypically shaped for a Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso. Closes long with hints of orange peel, Mediterranean herbs and minerals. The bright mineral sheen and Burgundy-like aromas and flavors are typical Calderara Sottana, though this strikes me as being just a little softer and rounder than usual.

Whites

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2019 Etna Bianco Cuvée della Vigne Niche Superiore, $47.50, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2028

The 2019 Etna Bianco Cuvée della Vigne Niche Superiore lights up the senses with a seductive mix of honeydew melon, kiwi and hints of sage and wet limestone. It’s angular and tactile in feel, showcasing mineral-tinged orchard fruits. A note of ginger and bitter citrus peel creates tension toward the close. Hints of hazelnut linger under an air of inner florals as the 2019 tapers off with youthful poise and a salty flourish. The Cuvee della Vigne Niche Superiore is made 100% from old-vines Carricante. For all the depth, richness and intensity here, I was delighted to see the alcohol clocking in at 12%. Only 3,000 bottles were produced in this vintage due to a hail storm that struck right before harvest. Also worth noting is that the Superiore continued to improve over the course of eight hours in the open bottle.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2018 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche-Santo Spirito, $42.99, 93 pts

Drinking window: 2021 - 2028

The 2018 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche-Santo Spirito is rich and honeyed, showing ripe peach and almond paste, yet gaining freshness through evolving notes of crushed stone and spring flowers. It soothes with soft, silky textures, building momentum as saline-minerals add grip to its ripe orchard fruits. A hint of vanilla bean and sweet spice lasts throughout the long, dramatic finale. The 2018 is pleasurable from start to finish, alluringly sweet and rich yet balanced. I can assure you that comparisons to white Burgundy certainly fit the bill here.

Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2019 Etna Bianco Calderara Sottana, $48.99, 95 pts

Drinking window: 2022 - 2030

There’s an airy and inviting freshness to the 2019 Etna Bianco Calderara Sottana that pulls you close to the glass, as a nuanced display of dusty dried flowers, cardamom, crushed stone and honeyed orchard fruits comes forward over time. It’s silky and seductive on the palate, showing a pretty inner sweetness, with ripe pear giving way to notes of almond as inner florals amass toward the close. Minerals and hints of citrus sizzle throughout the long finale under an enriching air of custard. As beautiful as this is today, it will only get better over time. Simply stunning.