Wine of the Moment: Bodegas Ordonez Nisia Verdejo

When you taste as many wines as we do a week, it is sometimes hard to find one that really grabs you.  It's not that we're tasting bad wines, it's just that the more you taste the more developed your palate becomes and therefore the pickier you get about what you buy. Which for you, our treasured customers, is a good thing because the quality of what you buy at Swirl at any price point has gone through our tried and true scrutiny.  The wine might not always suite your style, but I can promise, except in those rare occasions of an flawed or corked bottle, you'll be drinking a well made wine with its own charm and personality.

The down side of tasting all of these wines per week for me is that it takes a lot to get my attention.  Out of probably close to trying 75 wines per week, only 5-10% of those are considered for the store.  It's not about price, it's about quality for the money; it's not about just being "good" enough, but about over delivering.  And last week there were a few that met that criteria as we are looking for new wines for our wine bar list and were pleasantly surprised.

The Bodegas Ordonez Nisia was one such wine which is currently on our shelves and will have a spot on our new list which will be released on Wednesday.  The wine is a special project by importer Jorge Ordonez, who for the last 25 years has championed Spain, treasure hunting from La Rioja to La Mancha to bring its jewels to the world and especially America. Some criticize him for his new world style wines, a bit homogenized for old world palates, but there are some real gems in his portfolio no matter what your style.

Lately, over the past couple of years, Jorge and his sister, Victoria, have upped their investment by actually purchasing several Spanish estates and taking over every aspect of operations. The 2011 Nisia is the product of Ordonez' newest acquisition, a superb Rueda plantation of old-vines Verdejo just outside the city of Segovia. The harvest is done at night when the temperatures are much cooler than those during the day in September, the typical harvest month in Rueda. The vines used for Nisia are more than 60 years old, and you can taste the quality in this wine. The poor soils here, mostly river stones and sand, and low yields, results in a level of concentration that is seldom experienced in Spanish white wines.  You can buy this little beauty for under $15...what are you waiting for?

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 91 points
The 2011 Nisia is made from 100% old vine Verdejo (the youngest vines were planted in 1942, and others are nearly 100 years of age). The wine is aged sur-lie, and fermented in both stainless steel and large format French oak. It is undeniably one of the finest Verdejos I have ever tasted. Yields were less than three tons of fruit per hectare, which is noticeable in the wine’s old vine intensity. Notions of caramelized white citrus and tropical fruit blossoms along with a naked, natural texture as well as finish make for a terrific dry white with loads of personality and complexity. This beauty sells for an absurdly low price. Enjoy it over the next year.

The Over Achieving Bodegas El Nido Clio

What do you get when you combine one of Australia's top winemakers, the leading Spanish wine importer and a family with a hundred years of winemaking experience behind them? Bodegas El Nido is the result of this passionate endeavor taken by Chris Ringland, Jorge Ordonez and the Gil Vera family (Bodegas Juan Gil) and their belief that the Jumilla region of Spain could produce world class wines. Featuring the Monastrell as their rock star varietal, the wines from this Bodegas El Nido are highly sought after and their fans anxiously await the arrival of the new vintages.

Somewhat controversial because of their nontraditional approach to Spanish wine, Bodegas El Nido is not about old world subtlety or finesse, but pure power and a hedonistic richness much more reminiscent of Napa or Australia. Adored by Robert Parker whose scores have never dipped below 93 points, they produce 2 wines the Clio ($45.99) and the El Nido ($100+).

So for those of you who are fans and some of you who might now be curious, call me to reserve your bottles of the Clio because there is very little to go around. Only 180 bottles make it to the state of Louisiana and believe me, it goes fast. And at it's modest price point it truly over delivers if you are looking for a wine with a big time "wow" factor!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 94 points: The 2007 Clio is made up of 67% old vine Monastrell sourced from a vineyard planted in 1944 and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard planted in 1979. The alcoholic fermentation is in oak followed by ML in new barrels and aging for 26 months in new French and American oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an in-your-face bouquet of wood smoke, underbrush, incense, blueberry, and black currant. Dense, chewy, packed and stacked, the fruit quality is superb, the balance impeccable, and the finish lasts for nearly a minute. It will be controversial with those who prefer low alcohol and finesse in their wines. Those who like unrestrained power and richness will adore it quite aside from the fact that it over-delivers for its relatively modest price. Drink it from 2011 to 2022.