Farm to Table on the Rise in New Orleans

From Covey Rise Farms in Husser

There are a few things we can actually thank Katrina for. We were forced to move forward and embrace change faster than our usual snail's pace.  People came from around the world with new ideas and fervent energy, bringing their forward thinking global consciousness to the city that care forgot.  Combined with the strong will and survival instincts of New Orleanians, a city known for it's decadence and overindulgence is now focused on green building practices, sustainable energy and, most exciting to me, a fast growing farm to table movement.

Lucky for us, we've always had a strong and unique local food culture primarily based on our seafood industry.  Chefs like John Besh, Emeril Lagasse and John Folse and culinary activist Poppy Tooker helped put New Orleans on the map as a unique destination for local food and flavors.  Their longtime support of our fishermen and local farmers markets put meaning to farm to table well before the term was coined. 

Mike Fabianski, HGMF

Now we have even stronger support and more access to our local growers through the Crescent City Farmers Market and the Hollygrove Market and Farm as well as the many community gardens that are popping up all over the city. Young entrepreneurs and chefs are embracing our culinary roots like never before and we are reaping the benefits.  In the last few weeks we've visited three farm to table restaurants and were thrilled with the options we now have for well priced restaurants that support our local food economy.


Maurepas Foods in the Marigny - Chef Michael Doyle, formerly of Dante's Kitchen, has been a Swirl supporter for years.  It's been great to hear about the progress of the project and his dreams brought to life in this renovated corner store on Burgundy Street.  We've visited a few times now and have had great experiences.  From the carefully selected wine list, artfully crafted and affordable cocktails and fresh, creative twists on local food favorites presented in an energetic, comfortable atmosphere, Maurepas Foods should be high on your list of places to try. Maurepas Food, 3200 Burgundy St., at Louisa, 504.267.0072, is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Satsuma Cafe

Satsuma in the Marigny has been a favorite of ours for a while now, but we've been hearing rave reviews about their newly renovated kitchen and added dinner options.  The quiet, intimate atmosphere was perfect for us and the fact that you could bring your own wine for a $5 corkage?  Priceless...Anyway the food was delicious from start to finish, the best ceviche I've ever had, a lamb bolognese that was out of this world, truly everything was delightful!  We will soon be considered regulars...  Satsuma Cafe,  3218 Dauphine St. | 504.304.5962

Sweet Olive in the Saint Hotel - We were looking for a new spot to celebrate a few birthdays with friends and Mike Fabianski (of swirl and HGMF fame) recommended we try Sweet Olive. Beautiful presentations, a wine list that offers 3 or 6oz pours which makes it perfect for pairing with different dishes, and a list of local farmers and ingredients are shown on the menu.  Nice atmosphere for hotel dining with a great combination of hip yet elegant and comfortable decor, we will definitely return!  Sweet Olive, 931 Canal Street • New Orleans, LA 70112 • Tel: 504.522.5400

Gujarati Vegetables

Thinking Inside the Box, Recipes for Your Hollygrove Box of Fresh Local Produce

As much as we've been loving all of those winter root vegetables in our Hollygrove box, sometimes it's difficult to think up new and different things to do with them.  I've always loved Madhur Jaffrey's Gujarati Carrot recipe, so we decided to do the same with a combination of kohlrabi, cabbage and carrots and it was delicious!  Tangy, earthy and naturally sweet, we served it with a dollop of yogurt along side our vegetable sambar last night.

This is a quick stir fry, the veggies should stay crunchy.  You can find all of the spices listed at the international market in Metairie.

ingredients
3 T. Coconut oil
1/2 t. mustard seeds
1/4 t. asafetida
1/2 of a large kohlrabi, peeled and grated
2 carrots, peeled and grated
1/2 small head of cabbage, purple or green will work, core removed and finely shredded
3 hot green peppers, seeds and ribs removed, sliced into thin strips
1/2 t. kosher salt
1/4 t. turmeric
1/2 t. ground coriander
juice of 1/2 lemon or lime

directions
Heat the oil in a wok or large fry pan over medium heat.

When hot add the mustard heats and as soon they pop add the asafetida. Stir to mix.

Add kohlrabi, cabbage, carrots, chillies, salt, turmeric, coriander and lime juice. Stir and fry for 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat while carrots are still crunchy.

 

Cooking from the Box, Roasted Root Vegetables

Nothing is more simple and satisfying roasted root vegetables, and the turnips in the last few Hollygrove boxes have presented us the perfect opportunity to throw them into our usual mix.  I asked our friend and customer Jane one day how she liked to prepare turnips and her answer was roasted, of course with onions, a little olive oil and sea salt.

So that's what we've been doing lately, dressing them up a bit with fresh rosemary and balsamic vinegar, and we've become addicted!  Last week the box came with freshly pulled onions, sweet potatoes and baby turnips so we combined the three for a delicious beta carotene rich side dish.  So if you've never tried roasted turnips before, now is the time!

ingredients
-2 sweet potatoes, washed and cut into 1-1/2" chunks
-2 large turnips (or 6-8 baby), washed and quartered
-2 small onions quartered
-2 T. olive oil
-Needles from 2 large sprigs of fresh rosemary
-1/2 t. sea salt
-1 t. balsamic vinegar

directions
-Preheat oven to 375 degrees
-Take cut root vegetables and put them in a large mixing bowl.  Add olive oil , rosemary needles, sea salt and balsamic vinegar.  Use your hands to mix everything thoroughly in the bowl until veggies are coated with the oil.
-Put on a cookie sheet and bake for 45 minutes or until veggies are soft.

Tips for Your Hollygrove Box

This is the second time we've ordered the Hollygrove Box and I am really excited by the contents this week!  One of the things that is great about this box, besides the fact that the produce is about as fresh as it can be and that we are supporting local farmers, is that it makes us be creative with fruits and veggies that we may not normally purchase.  Kerry has coined it as "thinking inside the box" and I just love experimenting, looking up recipes online and talking to others about what they've done with the contents of their box. 

This week for our $25 we got Baby Purple Cabbage, Beets, Green Onions, Strawberries (from Fekete Farm-Hungarian Settlement),  Sweet Potatoes (from MS), Popcorn Rice (from Campbell Farms-Gueydan), Organic Grapefruit (from Shwars Citrus- Braithwaite), Organic Naval Orange (from L’Hoste Citrus-Braithwaite), Natural Arugula, Natural Kale (from HM&F-NOLA), White Button Mushrooms (from Red Hill Mushroom-Independence), Roma Tomatoes (from Barrilleaux Farm-Cut Off), Natural Microgreens (from Good Food Farm-NOLA) plus I ordered a dozen Farm Fresh Eggs to be delivered with my box.  You can add a few other things as well to your online shopping cart before you check out, like milk, polenta, grits and more, that will be delivered to the shop with your box.

So as we experiment with new things and recreate some familiar favorites, I just wanted to share some ideas on what to do with whats in the box...

As I was on my run this morning I decided we had to have omelets for breakfast as there is nothing better than fresh eggs!  So I stir fried some of those green onions with the button mushrooms in a little olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper until soft. I then whisked three eggs and put them in another skillet on a low to medium heat skillet with olive oil and butter.  I slowly cooked the eggs, added the mushroom and onion mixture and added shredded aged Gruyere cheese, folded it over and topped with some of the fresh tomatoes and micro greens.  Dish it out with a sprouted grain English muffin and some sliced grapefruit and you have one delicious meal!

Kale can be hard to get right but I've found that blanching first takes the bitterness out, makes the tough greens super tender, and somehow locks in a beautiful, deep green color that’s better than what you started with! It is chock full of vitamin A, and has respectable amounts of calcium, iron, protein, potassium, and vitamin C, not to mention all the phyto-nutrients in that dark green pigment! Try this, I've even had two teenagers tell me they never knew kale could taste so good!click here for my Tender and Delicious Kale post!

Kerry used golden beets for this Beet and Arugula Salad, but any beet will do!  You've got all the veggies in the box, arugula, micro greens, beets and onions so it will be easy to recreate!  Click for the recipe, Sundays are Best.

Photo from Williams Sonoma

During one of our summer beach trips, our friend Rachel made broiled grapefruit.  I'll never forget how the crunchy sugar top gave way to the cool tangy citrus center.  This is not her recipe, but something similar that will get you hooked! Check out the Williams Sonoma recipe here for Broiled Grapefruit.

Now we're trying to find something different to do with that beautiful head of purple cabbage besides slaw!  I'll let you know what I come up and feel free to give suggestions...and if you haven't ordered a Hollygrove box yet, you really should, it's good for your body and your soul!  For directions on how to order a Hollygrove box of fresh local produce, check out my post, Think Inside the Box.

Pasta with Fresh Lemon, Cream and Chanterelles

I saw a recipe in Lidia Bastianich's cookbook and have just been waiting for the right opportunity to make it.  Hers uses lemon juice and zest with rich heavy cream with a fresh tagliatelle pasta.  But when I was shopping at the Hollygrove Market yesterday I got one of the few remaining bags freshly foraged chanterelles and decided they would be perfect addition to her recipe.  Not to mention they had a few pints left of the to-die-for Rocking R Dairy fresh cream, making my decision even easier.

Today was a long bike ride for us, so there was no time for fresh pasta. But I find the next best thing is the Bionaturae brand of egg pasta, and we just happened to have a package of the papparedelle in the pantry.

Ingredients
    * 3 tablespoons butter
    * 4 teaspoons Lemon zest, finely grated (about 2 lemons)
    * 1 teaspoons salt (her recipe calls for 2t, use 1t and then adjust)
    * 1 cup dry white wine
    * 1 cup chanterelles, slice the big ones vertically into strips
    * 1 cup heavy cream
    * ⅓ cup lemon juice, freshly squeezed (about 2 lemons)
    * 1 pound tagliatelle or pappardelle
    * 1 cup pecorino, freshly grated, plus more for passing
    * extra-virgin olive oil, best quality, for serving

Servings: This recipe yields 6 servings.

Directions

Put your pot of water for the pasta on the stove and begin to bring it to a boil. As you are waiting for your water, begin the recipe.

Drop the butter into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. As the butter melts, scatter in the grated lemon zest; stir it around until sizzling. Add the chanterelles and gently stir them to coat with with butter. Pour in the white wine and lemon juice, add the salt, stir, and bring the liquids to a bubbling simmer. Cover the skillet, and let cook for a couple of minutes.

Uncover the pan, and slowly pour in the cream, whisking it steadily into the simmering wine and lemon juice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquids reduce to a saucy consistency you like, 2 or 3 minutes more.

After whisking in the cream, start cooking the pasta until al dente. This about 4 minutes for fresh pasta or the bionaturae pasta.

With the lemon-and-cream sauce at a simmer, taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.  Remember that your cheese will add some salt as well.  As soon as the pasta has finished cooking, quickly lift out with tongs and drop it all into the skillet. Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta- cooking water if needed.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the linguine, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

Savory Bites

...offering tidbits of information on interesting discoveries in the food and wine scene of New Orleans.

Satsuma Cafe in the Bywater - Looking for fresh, local ingredients served to you in a cool, funky, New Orleans atmosphere? We took a break from the Jazz Fest crowds on Friday and snuck out for a quick lunch to check out this great little spot in the Bywater. Eclectic art, lots of recycled furniture and a colorful palate, give you lots to look at as you patiently wait for your food to be prepared in the open kitchen behind the counter.


The menu board offers everything from freshly squeezed juices recipes concocted from local produce, creative breakfast dishes, sandwiches and salads at great prices. We started with shots of wheat grass juice, followed by the kale salad made with lacinato kale, shaved fennel, tomatoes and crispy bacon served up with just the right amount of their delicious house made parmesan dressing. We also split the MLT sandwich made with fresh mozzarella, basil pesto spread, tuscan salami and dressed with garden fresh lettuce and tomatoes, of course served on home made bread.


An awesome, light, healthy lunch followed by a great cup of espresso. Why oh why don't we have something like this in Mid City???


Satsuma Café, 3218 Dauphine St. (504) 304.5962. Open Daily 7 a.m. - 7 p.m. They get much of their produce from Hollygrove Market & Farm.

Savory Bites

...offering tidbits of information on interesting discoveries in the food and wine scene of New Orleans.

The Farm to Table Movement Picks up Steam in New Orleans!

It is hard sometimes to think of the positive things that have resulted from hurricane Katrina and the failure of our levee system. But they are there, if you open your mind to the fact that having to rebuild has allowed us to make many things better than they were before, in fact better than I ever dreamed they could be. Two very prominent issues for me in my daily life are the amazing things happening at City Park and the increasing awareness of the importance of the farm to table movement. While the Crescent City Farmers Market has lead the way in introducing local farmers and their wares to us city dwellers, Katrina has somehow shown us the importance of supporting each other economically as well as how eating local not only tastes better but is better for you nutritionally!

In addition to our wonderful CC Farmers Market, we have many prominent community vegetable and fruit gardens, Hollygrove and Mid City to name a few, an active Slow Food chapter, an increase in backyard, urban gardening, many local chefs who are seeking out farm fresh meats, poultry and produce and a population of socially aware foodies who want the best on their tables without the big box price tags.

Also, edible community magazine, a national publishing and information services company that creates editorially rich, community-based, local-foods publications in distinct culinary regions throughout the United States, Canada, and Europe, has started "edible new orleans". An absolutely beautiful local magazine, they connect consumers with family farmers, growers, chefs, and food artisans of all kinds through their publications, supporting websites, and events. The current issue has a lot of information on local gardens so pick one up at the shop on your next visit!

Now enter Jack and Jakes, something Kerry and I have wanted for years, an alternative to Whole Foods that offers truly fresh products – typically available at the Market within 3 days of harvest. Their mission, from the Jack and Jakes website: "Our food is truly local and is harvested within ~65 miles of the heart of the city. Our farmers and food artisans cultivate local varieties and use organic products that produce food that tastes better, retains more nutrients, and meets special dietary needs. We are proud to tell you that our fresh produce comes with seeds because we do not support or promote the use of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs). Our farmers use open pollinated and heirloom varieties that don’t ship well but taste great! We are working to save and promote our local food heritage through sustainable food practices that utilize locally adapted plants and animals."

A much needed service, Jack and Jakes will be opening this spring at 8300 Earhart Blvd., near the Carrollton intersection. Their model will reduce your food miles by bringing you fresh, local, and organic foods under the roof of a full service 7 day a week grocery store. Dry goods, dairy, pastured meats, local seafood, and seasonal local produce is their mission. Local first, everything else is second! I'll keep you posted on their progress or got to their site to check them out: Jack and Jakes