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The First Supper

Beth Ribblett

We're off and flying! Our first memorable meal (not!) on Alitalia; at
least we know that things can only improve from here! Once fluent in
Italian, Kerry is practicing on the flight attendents and asking if
she can pay with carta igenico (toilet paper which is about the
current value of the good old American $!). And just in case you are
wondering, yes they still give free wine on European airlines!

Kerry's meal review: bistecca inedible and land o' lakes butter...I
mean, really. And the vino rosso - drink at your own risk. The final
word is ewwww...I wouldn't have paid for this meal with carta igenico!

Next stop Roma! We'll meet up with the rest of the group there and
then a quick flight to Catania.

A presto,
Beth and Kerry

Pasta alla Norma, Ziti with Tomatoes, Eggplant, and Salted Ricotta

Beth Ribblett

From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Bastianich

Sicilians are passionate about both food and opera, so it is no surprise that one of the island’s most celebrated dishes is pasta alla Norma. What better way to honor the composer Vincenzo Bellini, a native son of Catania (on Sicily’s eastern coast), than to name a delicious pasta for Norma, one of the great operatic masterworks of all time?

I love both the opera and the dish, and, I can assure you, aside from their name, they’re quite different. Those of you familiar with opera know that the title role of Norma is so difficult that only the greatest sopranos ever sing it. On the other hand, this recipe is simple and
easily made.

Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 or 3 small firm eggplants (1 pound total)
1 ½ tablespoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste
1 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for a final flourish
4 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
¼ teaspoon peperoncino flakes
4 cups (or a 35-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes, preferably
San Marzano, crushed by hand
1 pound ziti
6 large fresh basil leaves
2 cups ricotta salata, freshly shredded on a hand grater

Equipment:
A heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 12 inches or wider, for frying
the eggplant and then cooking the sauce and pasta
A large pot, 8-quart capacity, with a cover, for cooking the pasta

-Trim the eggplants, and slice them (skin on) into 1±-inch chunks. Toss them with 1 teaspoon of salt, and drain in a colander for 30 minutes to an hour. Rinse, and pat them dry with paper towels.
-To fry the eggplant, pour the cup of vegetable oil in the skillet, and set over medium heat. Spread all the eggplant chunks in the hot oil, and leave them in place for a few minutes to start browning. Fry for about 10 minutes, tossing and stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is soft and cooked through and nicely browned on all sides. Lift the chunks out of the oil with a slotted spoon, and spread them on a platter lined with paper towels. Put the eggplant in a warm spot
(such as a briefly heated oven) while you make the sauce and pasta. Discard the frying oil, and wipe out the skillet.
-Pour 6 quarts of water, with 1 tablespoon salt, into the big pot, and bring to a boil.
-Pour the olive oil into the skillet, toss in the garlic cloves, and set over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the peperoncino in, and cook until the garlic is lightly colored, then pour in the crushed tomatoes. Slosh a cup of water in the tomato container to rinse it clean, and stir that in along with another ± teaspoon salt.
-Bring the tomatoes to a boil, then lower the heat and cook the sauce at a bubbling simmer for 12 minutes or so, until slightly thickened.
-Meanwhile, when the pasta water comes to a rolling boil, stir in the ziti. Cook until almost al dente, then lift them out with a spider, drain for a moment, and drop into the simmering tomato sauce. Toss together for a minute or two, until the ziti are cooked and coated
with sauce. Turn off the heat.
-Tear the basil leaves into shreds, and scatter over the pasta along with a cup of the shredded ricotta salata. Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over, and toss well. Now spread the eggplant chunks on top of the pasta, and sprinkle over it the remaining ricotta salata. Serve immediately, spooning both pasta and a portion of eggplant chunks into individual warm pasta bowls.

The Etna Revisited

Beth Ribblett

For months now you've been hearing me go on and on about our upcoming wine and culinary tour of Sicily (which by the way we are leaving in less than 2 weeks!!) and especially my fascination with the exceptional wines and producers of the Mount Etna. The region is way off the radar of most wine drinkers, albeit Wine Spectator's latest edition did do a somewhat lame article, "Remaking Sicily" where they gave an approving nod to a few producers mainly influential importer, consultant and winemaker Marc de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere.

Growing vines in the shadow of Europe's only active volcano is not for the faint of heart. Towering above Catania, Sicily's second largest city, Mount Etna has one of the world's longest documented records of historical volcanism, dating back to 1500 BC with minor eruptions still taking place today. The major eruptions and lava flows over the last few centuries have created the huge variety of lava formations that make up Etna’s unique topography. Eruptions from volcanic vents on the east side of the mountain have melted a destructive trail through any communities that lay in their path towards their ultimate destination – the sea.

Etna has two distinct viticultural areas, the eastern and northern slope. The former has a mild, maritime, fairly humid climate, quite a bit of precipitation and is also the source for most of Etna’s distinctive, mineral, salt-scented white wines that are mostly based on the local Carricante grape as well as reds from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio. Sheltered from Mediterranean influences by the Nebrodi mountain range the vineyards on the northern slope see much less rain and the temperature differences between day and night can be extreme. Red wines reign supreme, with the Nerello Mascalese grape reaching qualitative heights. Here you also find much older, up to 130-year-old vines, partly ungrafted as phylloxera cannot survive on the very active volcanic ash sand.

The superstar variety of the region is Nerello Mascalese, with its bright red fruit, pleasantly earthy and floral notes, hints of tobacco and notable tannin, is often compared to the likes of Barolo and Burgundy. Nerello Mascalese ripens late, and grapes are grown up to a cool 4,000 feet on the slopes of Mount Etna so that they sometimes may not be picked until the end of October or even the beginning of November. The variety certainly holds its acid well and combined with a decent tannin structure, the wine is good to drink young and able to age too.

The Etna wines are excitingly different, very intriguing and unfortunately difficult to get in New Orleans....the only wholesaler in the city who is currently stocking an Etna Rosso is Matt Lirette (Lirette Selections). And not just any Rosso, but that of Salvo Foti, an impressive, leading local viticulturist who makes wine for many of the larger producers in the region as well as his own label, I Vigneri.

I've been a bit obsessed about these wines lately and have made a great contact with wine professional in Austin, A.J. Hernandez who is extremely knowledgeable about the region. He sent me a short list of "must see" producers and because of his help and advice we have appointments with 3 exciting producers in the area, Frank Cornelissen, Passopisciaro and Vini Biondi (Salvo Foti is the winemaker here). The Etna is awash with amazing small producers and other names to look for include Alberto Graci, Terre Nere, Benanti to name a few.

So if you are intrigued by all of this, join us of our Tuesday tasting of "Italy's Southern Stars" where we'll be tasting my "wine of the moment", Salvo Foti's I Vigneri Etna Rosso as well as other favorite selections from Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia and Campagnia.

Wine of the Moment, 2005 Bennett Lane Maximus

Beth Ribblett


If you follow Napa Valley's Route 29 north to Calistoga, and then keep going just 2 1/2 more miles you'll arrive at the pinnacle of the Napa Valley. This is the northernmost wedge where the Vaca mountain range meets the Mayacamas range and where you'll also find Bennett Lane Winery, sitting snugly at the edge of its own beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard.

Owners Randy and Lisa Lynch purchased the property only five and a half years ago, but Bennett Lane is already making a name for itself with its lush textured Cabernet Sauvignon and the no-nonsense red wine varietal blend Maximus, composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The winery has garnered an incredible thirteen 90+ Point Scores from Wine Spectator in four short years and produces an amazing line up of both red and white wines.

The best deal in the Napa Valley, with Wine Spectator calling the 2005 release of the Maximus an "Outstanding Value" and with even more Cabernet in this blend than ever before, this deal has gotten even sweeter! The current blend is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 11% Syrah. The wine opens with aromas of dark cocoa, plum, ripe black cherry and subtle hints of vanilla. On the palate you get black cherry, plum, blueberry and subtle layers of cinnamon, nutmeg and cedar. With elegant, velvety tannins that enhance the mouthfeel, the wine has a long fruit driven finish and pairs well with practically everything, especially the Maximus Lamb Burger recipe this week!

Wine Spectator says 90pts: Firm, rich and intense, with ripe, vivid blackberry and wild berry fruit and a mix of currant and raspberry. Keeps a tight focus on the long, layered finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2013. 7,000 cases made. –JL

$35.99

Look for the Napa table on Tuesday night at our Swirl Uncorked event and get a taste of the Maximus as well as the other amazing wines by Bennett Lane and Nine North Wines!

Maximus Lamb Burgers with Feta Cheese and Mint

Beth Ribblett

In anticipation of our upcoming Swirl Uncorked tasting this week at the Degas House, I chose a wine from Bennett Lane in Napa as my wine of the week. These guys are located in the very northern corner of the Napa Valley and their whole line up of wines is amazing! So what better to pair their Maximus "Red Feasting Wine" with than a juicy lamb burger on the grill. And look for the Napa table on Tuesday night where Ron will be pouring the Bennett Lane and Nine North Wines!

Serves 4
From Bennett Lane Winery

1 ¼ lbs. ground lamb
4 T. Bennett Lane Red Maximus
2 T. mint jelly
2 T. shallot, minced
1 t. dried oregano
2 t. salt
2 t. black pepper
¼ lb. Feta cheese, crumbled
Hamburger buns or Ciabatta bread cut into 4 inch pieces

Put the ground lamb in a large bowl. In another small bowl, mix together the wine, jelly, shallot, oregano, salt and pepper. Pour wine mixture in bowl with the lamb. Fold in the cheese and gently mix together. Form by hand into 4 patties.

Grill meat over hot coals for about 4-5 minutes per side for medium rare to medium. Serve on toasted burger buns of choice, and serve with plenty of BENNETT LANE MAXIMUS RED FEASTING WINE!

Swirl Uncorked, Tuesday September 22 at the Degas House

Beth Ribblett

We are taking our Tuesday night tasting on the road this evening as our friends at Uncorked Wines will be presenting an exclusive Swirl tasting of their portfolio of wines at the historic Degas House on Esplanade (see info below). The event will feature over 40 wines from importers and producers including Kermit Lynch, Peter Weygandt, De Maison Selections, Bennett Lane, Nine North Wines, Bottled Poetry, Barnard Griffin and more. Chef Daniel Esses will join us as well with his infamous small plates. Don’t miss this amazing opportunity to taste wines from one of the best portfolios in the city!

Reservations and prepayment are required for this event, attendance is limited Please call 504.304.0635 to reserve your spot. $10, $15 at the door if space is available.

The historic Degas House is the only home or studio of Degas anywhere in the world that is open to the public, beautifully restored and located on majestic Esplanade Avenue just eleven blocks from the French Quarter at 2306 Esplanade Avenue. Free, lighted and secured parking is available at the Musicians' Union Bldg., 2401 Esplanade Avenue.

"Le Menu" Champagne Dinner with Clovis Taittinger

Beth Ribblett

For over a year now we've been discussing an event with our friends Ti Martin and Dan Davis at Commander's Palace. Well I think this may be the dinner of all dinners as we've schedule October 8th as the date for our event featuring the wines of famed Champagne house, Taittinger hosted by non other than the man himself, Clovis Taittinger! Trust me, this is something you won't want to miss!!

So please join us for an intimate dinner with special guest Clovis Taittinger featuring premier selections of Champagne Taittinger at Commander’s Palace.

Thursday, October 8
Cocktails at 6:30pm
Dinner at 7:00pm
$95.00 per person, non-inclusive
For Reservations Contact Melissa Wallace at 504.207.9312

Le Menu
1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Brut
Lobster & Grilled Corn Beignets with Choupique Caviar and Lemon Vodka Spiked Crème Fraiche

Taittinger Brut “La Francaise”
Bone Marrow Crusted Grouper
Confit of Chanterelles and Autumn Mushrooms
With Dandelion Vinegar-Mushroom Jus

Taittinger Prestige Rose Brut
Pan Roasted Breast of Dry Aged Duck
Confit Duck Leg, Butternut Squash, Crispy Bacon and Root Vegetables
With a Cognac and Red Currant duck Fond

Taittinger Nocturne Sec
Neapolitan Moderne
Chicory Coffee, Ponchatoula Strawberry and White Chocolate Iced Creams with Bocage Honey Pecan Brittle and Praline Syrup

Champagne Dinner with Clovis Taittinger at Commander's Palace

Beth Ribblett

For over a year now we've been discussing a wine dinner with our friends Ti Martin and Dan Davis at Commander's Palace. Well I think this may be the dinner of all dinners as we've schedule October 8th as the date for our event featuring the wines of famed Champagne house, Taittinger hosted by non other than the man himself, Clovis Taittinger! So put it in your calendar and I'll announce the full details next week after we get together to determine the wines and the menu. But trust me, this is something you won't want to miss!!

We had the honor of meeting and dining with the youngest of the Taittinger family at the Ritz Carlton earlier in the year. The most humble of French aristocrats, Clovis presented 6 of his exquisite bubblies in the true European style of a four hour lunch. He also paid a visit to the shop on Saturday where he again shared incredible wine, cheese and conversation for a few hours before trotting off to his tasting at Ric Hoppers. We have always loved the Taittinger wines, but are now fans for life! Thank you to Penny Kelly, Kobrand and Clovis for the great wines and fabulous company! Taittinger at Swirl: La Francais (750’s and 375s) Prelude and Rosé (one of our absolute favorite Rosé bubblies ever!)

Wine of the Moment, Finca Labajos Ibero

Beth Ribblett

Although the area of "La Mancha" is more famously known for a certain Spanish knight, Don Quixote's stomping grounds are also home the world's largest wine-producing area, with a total of 191,699 hectares under vine. Once known only for producing large quantities of simple quaffing wine, the last ten years has seen a huge cut back in production matched with a giant leap in quality.

Located in the heart of the Iberian peninsula, halfway between Madrid and Andalusia, this immense plateau of arid lands experiences extreme temperatures, hot summers and very cold winters. The vineyards are set out on a large plain with loose and healthy soils of limestone-clay composition. Its climate is suitable for creating wines of high quality, Mediterranean with continental influences, it experiences marked seasons and considerable contrasts in temperature, which is a very favorable factor in the production of aromas.

A look at the label of the Finca Labajos Ibero states that it is a "Vinos de la Tierra" denomination, a concept that is similar to the "Vins de Pays" of France and, according to Spanish law, is seen as a sort of transitional term for areas that can, after 5 years, apply for Denominación de Origen status. However, many wineries in Vinos de la Tierra areas are embracing the greater freedoms allowed outside of the D.O. system and are producing some really innovative and exciting wines. The main requirement under the Vinos de la Tierra designation is that the wine has to be made from grapes grown with in the region, which leaves the door wide open for creative winemakers to compete on an international stage.

The Finca Labajos Ibero is made by a female winemaker, Raquel Labajos, the current owner of the property that has been in her family for over 300 years. A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Tempranillo, the wine epitomizes what is happening in the region with its intense complexity, red fruit aromas, juicy ripeness combined with earthy spice notes.

Robert Parker gives it 90 points and says "...Purple-colored, the wine reveals aromas of cedar, earth, mineral, black currant, and blackberry. This leads to a medium-bodied, balanced, structured wine with 2-3 years of aging potential. It has excellent grip and depth followed by a firm, pure finish. It should drink well through 2015."

We paired this a few weeks ago with Chef Glen Hogh's Pinchos Morunos at our Tapas event and was a show stopper! The best part? It's a lot of wine for only $13.50!!

Pinchos Morunos by Chef Glen Hogh

Beth Ribblett

Chef Glen Hogh of Vega Tapas Cafe was the featured chef at our Tapas Tuesday last month at Swirl. He was kicking of his new $2 Tuesday Tapas menu at the restaurant and wanted to do a little preview for our lucky patrons. My favorite dish were these delicious grilled pork skewers and I convinced Glen to share the recipe with us . We paired them with the Iberos Tinto Roble, a merlot tempranillo blend that stole the show that night and was a perfect match for the Pinchos Morunos!

If you haven't checked out Vega Tapas on Tuesdays, you've got to go! The food is incredible and served in true tapas style, so you can try a lot of things for a little money and have way too much fun doing it!

Ingredients

2 Pork Tenderloins, cleaned of all skin & fat
1 lb. Brown Sugar
¼ C Dried Thyme
¼ C Oregano
¼ C Chili Flakes
5 T Black Pepper
1/3 C Salt
¼ C Cumin
¼ C Coriander
½ C Paprika
1/8 C Nutmeg

Directions
Combine all ingredients in mixing bowl. Set aside. Pork should be split lengthwise to create 4 pieces. Liberally coat each and place on cooling grill placed in hotel pan. Refrigerate overnight uncovered to cure. Cut pieces into cubes and place on water soaked skewers (this will keep them from burning). Place skewers over high heat grill till scored and rotate. Remove.

Traditional ‘pinchos’ are served atop crusty bread. We add a horseradish sour cream to cool the heat from the spices.

Espera que disfruten !

The Beauty of Spain, A Wine & Cheese Tasting with Richard Sutton

Beth Ribblett

It is always a pleasure to have Richard Sutton of St. James Cheese in the house to guide us through the fascinating world of artisan cheese production. This month we are tackling Spain, where over the centuries, the rugged mountains and lush valleys have fostered many unique cultures such as the Celtic people in Galicia, the Moors in sunny Andalucía, and the Basques, whose origins are lost in history. As a result of these many distinct regions and cultures, Spain produces an amazing array of over 100 artisan cheeses from the milk of cows, sheep, and goats.

Join us Tuesday, September 1st at 6:30pm, as Richard presents a selection of these distinct hand-fashioned cheeses that are the pride of Spain paired with some of our favorite regional Spanish wines. 6 wines, 6 cheeses, lots of fun, $15. Reservations and prepayment are required for this event. Please call 504.304.0635.

Here's a look at what we'll be tasting:
Ros - Absolutely delicious, though somewhat obscure, Catalan sheep’s milk cheese hand molded in the mountains outside of Barcelona. If you like aged Manchego, you’re going to go nuts over Ros! The cheese is extra aged, sporting a granular texture and a caramel, nutty flavor with notes of brown sugar and a citrus tang finish. You have to taste it to believe it!

Miticana - A soft ripened goat cheese log from Murcia, Spain, similar to French Bucheron. Murcia is famous for its quality goat’s milk and this farm produces outstanding cheeses. This is the first soft ripened sheep log in Spain, maybe ever. The cheese is aged 21 days and is buttery and delicious. As it ages, the flavor intensifies. We'll be pairing this with our wine of the moment, the Shaya Verdejo.

Valdeón - A rich and creamy, intensely-flavored cow and goat's milk blue cheese, stronger than Stilton but less intense than Cabrales. The Valdeón wheels are wrapped in Sycamore leaves which contribute to their distinctive appearance and complex flavor. Valdeón was named best blue cheese in a 2003 national competition in Spain.

Ibores - The rustic perfection of this Spanish classic is unrivaled among its fellow goat tommes. The flavors of Spain's rough and wild west are all here in a flinty, slightly goaty cheese. The flavor is round and olivey, and goes with a wide variety of wines, charcuterie, and other cheese accompaniments.

La Serena - La Serena is a sheep's milk cheese hailing from the Extremadura region of Spain and has been name-protected with DO status since 1992. Serena is rich and creamy and combines a fruity sharpness with an earthy, pungent flavor; as the cheese ages, its rind becomes leathery and the interior ripens to a soft, smooth spreadable paste. Like many Spanish and Portuguese cheeses, Serena is a terrific party cheese and can be served by the wheel with a hole cut in the top and crusty peasant bread for dipping. Pair this cheese with Albarino or Tempranillo.

Mahon - One of the most under-sung cheeses in the world. The simple cow's milk cheese may not be much to rave about during the first few months of its life, but after a year spent in the caves of the island's ripener/gatherers, the cheese blossoms into a full, fruity, sharp marvel.

Wine of the Moment: Bodegas Y Vinedos Shaya Verdejo 2008

Beth Ribblett

While searching for new Spanish wines for our upcoming "Beauty of Spain", a wine and cheese pairing event with Richard Sutton of St. James Cheese, Lucie Fitch brought me this new white imported
by Jorge Ordonez. Although Spain is much better known for its earthy, zesty reds, the increase in quality of the whites coming into the states lately has been remarkable. In fact, I've fallen in love with Spanish whites this summer and the Shaya is the source of my current infatuation.

Shaya is a new project that is a joint venture between importer Jorge Ordonez, Enrique Busto and the Gil family of Jumilla. I was blown away because I have never tasted such an intense fruit, but also, mineral laden white wine from the region of Rueda. Shaya are the local deer that like to forage on the vines. The fruit is sourced from extremely old low yielding vines planted in sandy riverstone. The average age of these gnarly vines is between 75 and 112 years old. Obvious aroma and flavor components will remind one of sauvignon blanc and semillon: citrus, melon rind. fig leaf, herb blossoms. But it is the underlying bonus of unexpected minerality that wins my heart and made it the perfect wine to pair with the Miticana cheese in our Tuesday night tasting this week.

Quite rich, but still graceful, this white shows melon, orange blossom, green almond and lime zest flavors in a thick texture. Vibrant acidity keeps this lively. Drink now through 2010. 5,500 cases made. 89 points, Wine Spectator

$15.99

Freshly Caught Yellow Fin Tuna and a Very Special Bottle of Wine....

Beth Ribblett

Our new friend Mimi, Team Swirler and chef extraordinaire, gave us a gigantic piece of absolutely beautiful freshly caught tuna this week. Planning on opening a really special bottle of wine and knowing we couldn't eat all of that fish ourselves, we invited a few friends who we knew would appreciate both the wine and the meal! Kerry cut the chunk of tuna into 5 large steaks and I did a very simple preparation for the grill that included an olive oil, lemon juice and herb vinaigrette to finish the fish.

And that special bottle of wine? A stunning 1999 Yamhill Carlton, Wahle Vineyard Pinot Noir made by James Moises and his partner Mark Wahle. It was amazing how fresh and elegant yet powerful this wine was with 10 years of age! So for those of you who have been buying Moises wines and have been asking how long they can age, here's your answer: a long, long time! This wine is aging beautifully and still has at least another 10 years! Thank you James, it was a really special treat!!

Ingredients:
-juice of one lemon
-extra virgin olive oil
-salt and freshly ground black pepper
-3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
-a sprig of fresh mint, leaves picked and roughly sliced
-a sprig of fresh oregano, leaves picked and roughly sliced
-4 tuna steaks

Directions:
-Heat up the grill.

-Squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl and add 3 times the amount of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the garlic, mint and oregano. Set aside.

-Rub the fish with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Throw it on the grill and cook about 2 minutes each side. This should leave it a bit pink in the middle. Pull it off the grill and top each piece with the lemon herb vinaigrette.

Deliciously Simple!!

Club Swirl August Selections from California

Beth Ribblett

Part wine club, part discount program, "club swirl" offers a great way to try new and exciting wines from around the world. Benefits include our 2 wines of the month, discounts on all wine purchases and tastings, invitations to special members only tastings, advance email notices on special wines brought into the store and more for only $39.99/month! Memberships applications are available, call 504.304.0635 for more details.

August Selections
2006 Elyse Korte Ranch Zinfandel

After twenty-five years in Napa, Ray Coursen, owner and winemaker of Elyse winery has learned a thing or two about producing world-class wines. According to Ray, great winemaking is like cooking, but without a flame. Just like world class chefs all over the world meld and marry different flavors to create a dish that is greater than the sum of its parts, Ray blends and combines wines to create a product that is by all definitions more astounding than the expression of an individual varietal could ever be.

The genius of Ray Coursen however is in his complete understanding of every aspect of the wine making process, from the vineyard to the glass. He has dirtied his hands throughout his illustrious career in the vineyards of Mount Eden, and Whitehall Lane, and of course he still gets his hands dirty in all the vineyards from which he sources his first class fruit. What happens after that in the hands of a fellow like Ray is more art than science, much more.

Ray started out making Zinfandel, then expanded into Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah which will continue to be the focus of his winemaking. But he just finished bottling a tiny quantity of Chardonnay, and will soon be releasing his first Pinot Noir. The wines he makes depend on the fruit that’s available, because he just can’t say no to wonderful fruit.

The Korte Ranch Zinfandel

The Zinfandel at Korte Ranch was planted about 100 years ago during the administration of Theodore Roosevelt. This 40 acre parcel just north of St. Helena is owned by Hal, Jack and Kathy Pagendarm. Hal's grandfather owned and operated the Korte Ranch Winery before Prohibition. Up on the hill are the crumbled remains of a stone cellar and house where the original Korte Winery was located.

The 2006 Elyse Korte Ranch Zinfandel is 95% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah and age 11 months in American Oak (30% new). It is bright ruby red in color with aromas of citrus, lavender, dried raspberries, smoke and roasted nuts. On the palate, this wine shows deep blackberry and black cherry fruit flavors with notes of cola, coffee and mocha. This is a rich Zinfandel, with some weight on the palate followed by a slightly leather texture, good acidity, nice tannin structure and a long finish. The 2006 Korte Ranch Zinfandel is drinking wonderfully now, but if you can manage to hold some back it will age nicely for another 5 – 9 years.

Pair with beef stew, ribs, barbecue or smoked meats.
1,316 cases made

Retail Price: $24.99
Club Swirl Price: $23.75/bottle or $21.25 with club swirl case discount


2006 Elyse Nero Misto
Nero Misto means mixed black and the wine is just that, a California field blend of international and old world varietals. The fruit for this is sourced from different Napa vineyards including Wood, Chavez-Leeds, Pelkan, Massa, Souyoultzis, Rossi and Naggiar.

It is a blend of 38% Zinfandel, 34% Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah, 10% Carignane,and 8% blend of Gamay, Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, and Barbera and is aged 10 ½ months in used French & American Oak.

The 2006 Nero Misto (Italian for “mixed black”) is deep blackish-burgundy color with a nose of dark black fruits, dried herbs, pepper, leather, and wild blueberries.This delicious “field blend” styled wine has a strong mid-palate with flavors of pomegranate, black fruits, dried cherries and figs with a hint of spice. The wine is medium to full in body, with juicy fruit, firm tannins, great acid balance and a long,lush finish. Drinking well right now, though it can’t hurt to decant. Will cellar well for the next 5– 7 years.

Nero Misto is an extremely versatile wine, particularly good with Italian food, spicy southwest cuisine and steaks and chops off the grill.

1,158 cases made

Retail Price: $20.99
Club Swirl Price: $19.99/bottle or $17.86 with club swirl case discount

2007 Adelaida Cellars Version White
Referred to locally as the Adelaida Hills (not to be confused with Australia’s Adelaide Hills), they’re part of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which span 140 miles from Carmel Bay through San Luis Obispo County in California's Central Coast. Exciting things are happening in these remote hills, valleys and benchlands northwest of Paso Robles, so much so that in the June 30, 2005 issue of Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr. asserts “there is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.

So just what is it that makes this area so special in terms of winemaking? As in all of the great wine regions of the world, the soil, climate and topography together create an ideal environment for quality grape growing. Given that they have some pretty special ground, with some of the highest elevations in the area, a wide variety of slopes and orientations, and those sought after limestone soils, it's not surprising that the area is producing concentrated, well-structured, age worthy wines.

Over forty years ago, Dr. Stanley Hoffman recognized the area's potential and planted some of the region's first vines. The wines produced with legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff
under the Hoffman Mountain Ranch (HMR) label provided early proof that world-class wines could be grown in Paso Robles.

Today, the Von Steenwyk family owns a portion of that HMR vineyard as part of the Adelaida Cellars holdings that includes about 500 acres of walnut trees and 150 acres of vineyards. The winery, which originated in 1981, is located 14 miles east of the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of 1,800 feet in the Santa Lucia mountain chain. Adelaida's wild and rugged mountainside vineyards are loaded with limestone and calcareous shale. According to winemaker Terry Culton, "these characteristics cause the vines to strengthen. This results in added stress on the vines, which lowers the yields but produces more intensely flavored fruit". In keeping with the winery's sustainable philosophy, the vineyards are not tilled, encouraging native grasses, wild sage and rosemary to flourish between the rows.

Adelaida produces from its own Estate vineyards and a select group of contracted vineyards on the west side of Paso Robles. The fruit for the Version comes from the Glenrose Vineyard, at 1,200 – 1,600 feet in elevation and 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is adjacent to their own Viking Estate Vineyard.

Adelaida Version (Rhone Style White) Glenrose Vineyard 2007 - (58% Roussanne, 42% Grenache Blanc) Beautiful lime, pear and honey aromas with thirst quenching acidity and a fresh minerally finish this is an amazing food wine!

Pair it with rich seafood dishes, or light chicken or pork.

Retail Price:
$21.99
Club Swirl Price: $20.99/bottle or $18.69 with club swirl case discount

Whole Roasted Fish Paired with Adelaida Version White

Beth Ribblett

Cooking fish whole, on the bone with the head and tail attached, is absolutely the best way to eat it. The meat around the bones just seems sweeter and tastier! I ran over to Kjean's Fish Market on Carollton to see what they had and was able to pick up some fresh trout. Just ask them to gut and scale the fish for you. This recipe is actually fairly simple with out a lot of mess in the kitchen and the end result is fantastic! I've adapted from Lidia Bastianich's, Lidia's Italian Table recipe for Whole Roasted Striped Bass. Apparently it is a staple on the menu at her restaurant Becco in New York, and she prepared a version of this for the Pope in 2008!

Makes 6 servings

For the garlic-infused oil:
1 ½ cups extra virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

For the fish:
6 whole trout, about 1 1/4 lb. each, eviscerated and scaled
6 fresh or dried bay leaves
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 medium-sized red onions, peeled and cut into 1/3″ slices
6 small, firm vine ripened tomatoes, cored and cut in half

To serve:

5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley leaves

-Prepare the garlic-infused oil about half an hour before roasting the fish: In a small bowl blend the olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Allow the sauce to steep for half an hour.

-Preheat the oven to 475 F. Use the garlic-infused oil to grease two heavy, large (at least 22 x 18-inches) roasting pans, preferably with low sides. Brush each fish on both sides with the olive oil mixture and enclose the tails in aluminum foil. Place one bay leaf and one sprig of rosemary in the cavity of each fish. Arrange the fish in the prepared pans, leaving as much space between them, and between the sides of the pan, as possible. Arrange the onion slices and tomato halves around the fish in both pans so as not to overlap with each other.

-Season the fish and vegetables with salt and pepper and divide the wine between the pans. Bake until the fish and vegetables begin to brown, about 25 minutes, drizzling occasionally with about ½ cup of the remaining garlic-infused oil. (The rest of the garlic-infused oil will be used as the base of a sauce to be served with the fish.) Remove the fish from the oven.

-Stir the lemon juice and parsley into the remaining garlic-infused oil and season with salt and pepper. Place one whole fish on each plate and flank with the vegetables. Spoon any sauce from the baking pan over each serving.

-Stir the lemon-parsley sauce well and spoon a little over each serving. Set the rest of the sauce on the table for passing as fish is being enjoyed. Pour a nice glass of Adelaida Version and relax!

Wine of the Moment: 2007 Adelaida Version White

Beth Ribblett


Referred to locally as the Adelaida Hills (not to be confused with Australia’s Adelaide Hills), they’re part of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which span 140 miles from Carmel Bay through San Luis Obispo County in California's Central Coast. Exciting things are happening in these remote hills, valleys and benchlands northwest of Paso Robles, so much so that in the June 30, 2005 issue of Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker, Jr. asserts “there is no question that a decade from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and the limestone hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as well-known as the glamorous vineyards of Napa Valley.

So just what is it that makes this area so special in terms of winemaking? As in all of the great wine regions of the world, the soil, climate and topography together create an ideal environment for quality grape growing. Given that they have some pretty special ground, with some of the highest elevations in the area, a wide variety of slopes and orientations, and those sought after limestone soils, it's not surprising that the area is producing concentrated, well-structured, age worthy wines.

More specifically here is what you'll find:
-the calcareous soils (calcium carbonate, limestone or chalk) of the area and the significance of this rocky, relatively infertile type of soil contribute to the exciting quality of the wines on the Westside. Calcareous soils, in particular, contribute intense bouquets, firm acids and strong alcohol but with finesse.
-climate during the growing season, specifically the hot days and cool nights. The Westside commonly has temperature swings of 50-55 degrees day-to-night, largely due to cooling breezes from Pacific Ocean creating prime conditions for ripe fruit with a balance of sugar and acid.
-dominated by the Santa Lucia Mountains it is an amazingly varied area with flatlands, river bottoms, benchlands, hills and mountains. There are multiple microclimates and diverse vineyard sites ranging from 800-2000 feet above sea level.

Over forty years ago, Dr. Stanley Hoffman recognized the area's potential and planted some of the region's first vines. The wines produced with legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff
under the Hoffman Mountain Ranch (HMR) label provided early proof that world-class wines could be grown in Paso Robles.

Today, the Von Steenwyk family owns a portion of that HMR vineyard as part of the Adelaida Cellars holdings that includes about 500 acres of walnut trees and 150 acres of vineyards. The winery, which originated in 1981, is located 14 miles east of the Pacific Ocean at an elevation of 1,800 feet in the Santa Lucia mountain chain. Adelaida's wild and rugged mountainside vineyards are loaded with limestone and calcareous shale. According to winemaker Terry Culton, "these characteristics cause the vines to strengthen. This results in added stress on the vines, which lowers the yields but produces more intensely flavored fruit". In keeping with the winery's sustainable philosophy, the vineyards are not tilled, encouraging native grasses, wild sage and rosemary to flourish between the rows.

Adelaida produces from its own Estate vineyards and a select group of contracted vineyards on the west side of Paso Robles. The fruit for the Adelaida Cellars Version comes from the Glenrose Vineyard, at 1,200 – 1,600 feet in elevation and 16 miles from the Pacific Ocean, and is adjacent to their own Viking Estate Vineyard.

Adelaida Version (Rhone Style White) Glenrose Vineyard 2007 - (58% Roussanne, 42% Grenache Blanc) Beautiful lime, pear and honey aromas with thirst quenching acidity and a fresh minerally finish this is an amazing food wine! Try it with my recipe this week, Lidia Bastianich's Whole Roasted Fish.

Try this wine at our Friday Free All this week with Gabe Daigle, $21.99.

Dr. James Moises Rocks Ponce de Leon Street!

Beth Ribblett

Saturday's launch party at Swirl for Moises Wines was a special night as owner and local ER doc James Moises and friends generously poured fabulous, small production, single vineyard Oregon Pinots for 3 hours straight! The standing-room-only crowd stood elbow to elbow inside and out to celebrate the first ever release of James' wines, a true labor of love for the native New Orleanian! Guests were treated to glasses of the 2006 Yamhill-Carlton and Holmes Hill and the 2007 Yamhill-Carlton, Holmes Hill and Vieux Carre, of which total production for all wines combined is under 300 cases! Great food was provided by Chef Richard Papier and RK Rowell's art provided a colorful backdrop for the event.

Even better attended than the Rachel Ray Food Network filming in the spring, if James' future success can be measured by the number of attendees, he has it made as local musician Phil deGruy shouted, "This is amazing! It's like being at the House of Blues!"

Congratulations James and thank you for letting us be part of your celebration!

Check out the slide show in the sidebar on the right and click here for past posts on Moises Wines.

Wine of the Moment, 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir

Beth Ribblett


Located 35 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean, the Yamhill-Carlton District is a sub-appellation of Oregon’s famed Willamette Valley AVA. It is a horseshoe shaped appellation that surrounds the two communities from which it is named, Yamhill and Carlton, and is home to some of the finest Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.

Once primarily known for tree-fruit orchards, nurseries and livestock, wheat and logging, the area now known as the Yamhill-Carlton District has a relatively recent wine history. In 1974, pioneers like the Campbells and the Wahles were planting vines long before other areas of the North Willamette Valley. Other quickly followed suit and today it is known as one of the country's finest producers of cool-climate varietals and was officially established as an AVA in 2004.

The vineyards of the Yamhill-Carlton District were planted mostly in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s. The primary soil of this area is called Willakenzie, named after the Willamette and McKenzie rivers. It is comprised of coarse-grained, ancient marine sedimentary soils, over sandstone and siltstone, that drain quickly, making them ideal for viticulture. Grapes grown in this soil type often result in wines lower in acid than those made from grapes grown in other areas.

Yamhill-Carlton vineyards grow on sites with elevations between 200 and 1,000 feet, avoiding low valley frost and high elevation temperatures unsuitable for effective ripening. Geographically, this area is protected by the Coast Range to the west, the Chehalem Mountains to the north and the Dundee Hills to the east.

With the orientation of vineyards and unique soil conditions found in the AVA, the Yamhill Carlton District is a leading producer of concentrated, more lush styles of Oregon Pinot Noir. As with other Willamette Valley AVAs, only those vineyards falling within defined elevations (in this case between 200 and 1,000 feet) are permitted to use the AVA designation. This trend amongst the new Willamette Valley sub-appellations, such as the Yamhill Carlton District, only reaffirms Oregon as the leader of ‘terroir’ consciousness in North America.

The 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir is produced with wine sourced from the Wahle Family’s initial vineyard planting located in the heart of Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton District. Established in 1974, it is one of the oldest Pinot Noir vineyards planted in Willakenzie soil. The vineyard sits at 450' elevation and enjoys a beautiful southern exposure.

The wine was aged 11 months in French oak and another year and 9 months in the bottle. It has aromas of red and black fruits, with added elements of herbs, cloves and fresh-turned earth. On the palate, cherry and cassis dominate with herbal notes and continued spiced undertones. The lower acidity level brings a lush mouth feel and makes the Yamhill Carlton approachable young. Less than 100 cases produced.
Retail Price: $39.99

This wine is one of the gems we'll be tasting with Dr. James Moises at his launch party on August 15 from 6 to 9pm at Swirl. This is a "don't miss" event for anyone interested in tasting high quality, small production Oregon Pinot from a native New Orleanian. For more information on James and his wines, check out my blog post, Moises Wines, Driven by Passion, Heart and Healing.

Grilled Salmon Paired with Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir

Beth Ribblett

I went for a classic pairing here for the Moises Pinot Noir (yes, red wines can pair with fish!) and kept the marinade as something that would compliment the wine and let it really shine. Pinot Noir is a versatile wine that works well with a variety of foods . Its acidity helps balance the rich, fatty nature of salmon, making it a great choice. The thyme in this dish really helps bring out the herbal notes of the wine and the lushness of it is great with the melt-in-your-mouth fatty salmon. And please don't waste the beautiful Moises wine by putting it in the marinade! The rule of thumb in using wine for cooking is that it needs to be something you don't mind drinking while you cook, but don't use anything expensive!


Grilled Salmon with Pinot Noir Marinade
Serves 2

2 salmon fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 cup pinot noir
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 springs fresh thyme, chopped
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
salt to taste

Combine marinade ingredients in a large zip-lock bag or non-reactive covered dish. Add salmon and turn to coat. Refrigerate, turning several more times, at least 30 minutes but not more than an hour. Place salmon in hinged grill basket. Grill for approximately 5 to 7 minutes per side or until fish flakes.

For more info on the wine go to Wine of the Moment, 2006 Moises Wahle Vineyards Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir.