"Frizzy" Wines, the Perfect Antidote for the Summer Heat

Guido from da Ferdinando

Spending a lazy afternoon with our new friends Guido, Marco and Ferdy at da Ferdinando on Spiaggia di Fornillo became a blissful habit.  We would start in the morning with a little time on the water, renting a kayak or pedal boat from them with the later becoming our preferred vessel due to the minimal amount of effort it actually took to move it. After an hour or so of swimming and cruising in the cool blue waters,  we'd meet friends on the deck for lunch at our table in the corner.

One of our favorite appetizers, grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves

Lunch would begin with our favorite antipasti of prosciutto e melone (prosciutto draped over honeydew or cantaloupe), mozzarella alla griglia (grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves), insalata caprese, alici fresche al limone (fresh anchovies with lemon), just a little something to hold us over 'til our main courses arrived. Needing to wash all of that food down with a local beverage, the sheepishly grinning Ferdy would bring the first of many pitchers of our preferred drink to the the table, the house white wine. 

Kerry pouring us the favored vino bianco in Portole, Italy

Vino Bianco della Casa in Italy is really everything one wants in a summer wine and during one of those dreamy afternoons, many pitchers later on the beach a da Ferdinando, the name "frizzy" wine seemed most appropriate. Usually served in small ceramic pitchers or glass carafes with a subtle amount of spritz or frizzante, it is light, palate cleansing, refreshing and much too easily drinkable by the litre or two or maybe three ...And while we most enjoyed it during those lazy afternoons on the Amalfi Coast, it was our drink of choice from Rome to Cortona and everywhere in between.  

They call it VinhoVerde in Portugal, Txakolina in Spain, Frascati in Roma, Greco in Greece, Falanghina on the Amalfi Coast, but no matter the grape or the name, it's one of those highly quaffable beverages that when served with the local food makes for an unforgettable experience.  So in trying to recreate those moments for us and our friends I'm putting together a collection of "frizzy" wines at the shop.  And if you've been to any of those places I mentioned above, you know what I'm talking about.  Usually inexpensive and always easy to drink at any time of the day, best experienced by pouring them into a ceramic pitcher and envisioning yourself sitting on the Amalfi coast gazing into the crystal clear waters...

Our time on the deck at da Ferdinando would end with fuzzy heads from frizzy wine, so Guido would set up our umbrellas as we take our spots on the colorful beach chairs for a nap and a last dip in the aqua blue waters.  Once our heads would begin to clear we stop back at the bar for espressi and maybe a limoncello, say our good byes to the guys and local cats before we took the walk back into town in search of gelato, leaving another hard day on the coast behind us.

Spiaggia di Fornillo, Positano

Current selection of frizzy wine:

Fontana Candida Frascati, Riondo Soave, Anjos Vinho Verde, Arca Nova Vinho Verde, Ameztoi Txakolina, prices range from $8-$17

I Colori del Blu

The combination of an adventurous group and absolutely fabulous weather is adding up to a more active Positano vacation this year. Wanting to experience those crystal clear waters in every way, shape and form possible, a few of decided to check out the kayak rental situation on the beach.

I was able to get the group moving somewhat early so we took the beautiful walk down the 160 stairs to the center of town, stopping to pet the many smart cats that hang out by the Pescaria, checking out the local catch of the morning before heading around the bend to Spiagga del Fornillo. We stop at one of the first "snack bars" on the beach, del Ferdinando - a spot we've enjoyed on every trip we've made, to inquire about the kayaks on the beach. Here these snack bars have many purposes. Not only do they serve deliciously fresh local dishes, but they also have boats, changing rooms and those lovely colorful beach chairs with umbrellas for hire. The very happy, smiley guy who runs the place tells us 5 euros per hour per boat, no prepayment, credit card or waiver are required as they take us to the beach gives us oars and send us on our way.



Getting yourself on the water as well as in the water here on the Amalfi Coast is a must. From the gigante ferries that bring people back and forth to Capri, Amalfi and Sorrento, the expensivo boats and captains for hire and the do-it- yourself kayak, peddle boat options, there are many ways, at many price levels, to do so. But the view of the shore line from the sea is absolutely breathtaking so whatever option you chose, you will not be disappointed. Pastel colored stucco buildings hanging on to steep hillsides, rocky ledges jutting out into crystal clear water, the cars traversing the Amalfi Coast highway perched on the edge of the cliff, beckoningly beautiful faraway islands, it is really a sight to behold.



Probably the most enticing part of this is experiencing the water itself. Clear enough to see the bottom from great depths, a cleansing salinity that could float an elephant and the most amazing shades of aqua and Mediterranean blue you've ever experienced, it literally draws you in and very reluctantly allows you to exit. So as we paddle along the bay, watching the colors change from one brilliant blue to another, I make a promise to myself to be in and/or on the water everyday of this trip. Combined with my other promise to eat gelato everyday, these should hopefully balance each other out and I won't BE that elephant by the time I leave!

Today's activity is hike in the Latari mountains along the Sentiero Degli Dei, Walk of the Gods, with a side trek that allows us to finish on Spiaggia Arienzo for a quick dip before we take the little wooden boat back to Positano. Ending with a creamy gelato at Buca di Bacco, it should be a picture perfect day!

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La Mattina in Positano

Being an early riser is both a blessing and a curse that I inherited from my somewhat compulsive parents. It's an annoyance when I'm at home and feel compelled to sit in front of my computer and work but an absolute joy to me when on vacation. While most people are excited about having extra time to sleep away the stresses of home, for me it's the perfect time to bask in quietness of a place and watch as a new day stirs into motion.

Today is one such morning as I awake at 4:30 to the sounds of a few tourists continuing to enjoy a very late night. Spending the next half an hour trying to will myself back to sleep, I lie listening and literally hear the tempo of the town begin to change from nighttime revelry to morning calm. 5am approaches and the light slowly begins to brighten outside our bedroom window as the sun creeps up from behind the Latari mountains. If feel the tug of the early dawn as the rhythm changes from night to day and I can’t help but get up and witness the transformation.

Coffee now in hand, I sit on the lovely terrace taking in the scene as the town readies itself for the day. Positano hangs on to rocky cliffs surrounding a small valley with pastel colored shops, restaurants and villas nestled inside and the Bay of Salerno lapping its shore line. I close my eyes, tuning my senses to the sounds echoing off the cliffs and wafting up to my perch above.  Roosters crowing in the distance, rolling gentle waves, the setting of tables in the cafes, vespas zipping down the main street, brooms sweeping the cobbled walkways - and by the time the bells of Santa Maria Assunta ring at 7am, I open my eyes to view the brightly colored umbrellas going up on the beach as the jewel of the Amalfi Coast awaits the summer masses.

Completely unaware of the beautiful spectacle that has transpired over the last few hours, others are finally stirring in the villa.  But as for me, currently feeling blessed by my inherited internal alarm clock, I am already completely and utterly content and even can't imagine what other joys await...

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