The Natural Wine Movement In Italy

Clay Amphora at Foradori - April, 2023

While natural wine may seem like a relatively new phenomenon, it’s actually the way all wine was made since 6000 BC. Vineyards were free of industrial chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, etc.), fermentation occurred because of indigenous yeasts on the grapes and in the cellar, and vinification occurred without additives or industrial processes like micro-oxygenation to soften tannins or reverse osmosis to decrease the level of alcohol.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, the industrial revolution led to major changes in the way wine was made. With the advent of steam-powered machinery and new technologies, wine production became more efficient and mass-produced. This marked the beginning of the modern wine industry, which often relied on chemical fertilizers and pesticides in grape cultivation, as well as additives and preservatives in wine production. At that time people saw the soil merely as a growth medium for the vine. Chemicals seemed like a wonderfully scientific option that would save winegrowers a lot of work in the vineyard and provide better results.

The use of chemicals and additives in wine production became widespread, and many winemakers began to prioritize quantity over quality. This led to the production of homogenous wines that were often bland and lacking in character, and the art of winemaking was in danger of being lost.

In France, it was Jules Chauvet, a winemaker and chemist in Beaujolais in the 1970, who felt that the true character of the grapes and the terroir of the place was lost due to the influence of synthetic chemicals and additives. He championed techniques that minimized or eliminated the use of such additives, including natural fermentation with indigenous yeasts, minimal use of sulfur dioxide, and avoiding other common winemaking interventions.

While Chauvet's influence was more directly felt in France, his ideas eventually spread to Italy, inspiring a number of pioneering winemakers who embraced the principles of minimal intervention and natural viticulture. In Italy, it was Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon in Friuli-Venizia in the 1990s who were among the first to establish and spread the movement within the country. They began experimenting with minimal intervention techniques, such as extended maceration for white wines (leading to the rise of "orange wines"), fermentation in amphorae, and strict avoidance of chemical additives. They wanted to produce wines that were true to their origins, free from the influence of modern additives and interventions, and in doing so, they helped shape the identity of natural wine in Italy.

As the wines of Gravner and Radikon began to gain recognition, other winemakers in Italy took notice, particularly those who were dissatisfied with industrial winemaking practices. Winemakers from regions like Piedmont, Tuscany, and Sicily visited Friuli-Venezia Giulia to learn from these pioneers. The philosophies and techniques they encountered inspired them to adopt similar practices in their own regions, leading to a ripple effect across Italy.

At the same time, consumer interest in organic and sustainable products grew, increasing the demand for natural wine. This cultural shift toward sustainability and authenticity resonated with both producers and consumers, encouraging more winemakers across Italy to embrace natural wine practices.

Now you can find natural, minimal intervention wines in every region of Italy. Look for wines from portfolios such as Selection Naturel, Louis/Dressner, Rosenthal, Zev Rovine to name a few in the Louisiana market.