Chenin Blanc is Having a Moment...

53 Year Old Chenin Blanc vineyard at L’Avenir, Stellenbosch

“Chenin Blanc may well be the most underrated white wine grape in the world. It makes wines high in acidity that generally take a while to unfurl and show their mettle. But with time in bottle the wines can hold their own with the finest white wines in the world and, crucially, continue to improve for decades – a real sign of quality.” Jancis Robinson

I have always loved Chenin Blanc, it is so good, so versatile, and so, so overlooked.…when grown under the right conditions, to me, it’s the perfect white wine. Its aromatic complexity, naturally high acidity, and its wide range of styles make it incredibly versatile and interesting. Chenin Blanc is grown in many parts of the world but its two favorite homes are in the Loire Valley and South Africa.

In the cool climate of the Loire, Chenin always seems to take a back seat to the other famous white wine of the region, Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin is the perfect counterbalance to the steely, citrusy acidity of Sancerre, Menetou Salon or Touraine Sauvignon Blanc – more prominent fruit but mineral-driven with bright acidity, its qualities allow for it to be produced in several styles from sparkling to still, dessert wine and even fortified. You may know its more austere version as Savennières, or Vouvray Sec with its focus on balance and vibrant acidity. Then there are Crémant de Loire - crisp, fresh, and with zippy green apple and citrus notes as well as delicious versions in Anjou and Saumur.

Chenin Blanc vines planted in South Africa have their origins in the 17th century, brought by Dutch and later influenced by French Huguenot settlers. Over the centuries, Chenin Blanc has become a cornerstone of the South African wine industry, evolving from a bulk wine grape to a celebrated varietal known for its quality and versatility. It is the most widely planted grape variety in South Africa and for centuries was known as steen.

South Africa's Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters, is ideal for growing Chenin Blanc. The coastal regions benefit from cooling breezes, which help retain the grape's acidity. Often more fruit-forward, with pronounced tropical fruit flavors such as pineapple, guava, and melon, alongside apple, pear, and citrus with high acidity but balanced by the richness of the fruit. Again, it’s versatility allows in to be produced in a number of styles from sparkling to still and sweet.

Here’s some terroir info on both of these amazing regions -

Loire Valley – the Middle or Central Loire is the “zone” for Chenin Blanc in the region.  This region encompasses several notable appellations, including Vouvray, Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur, and Anjou.

1.    Climate

o    both maritime and continental with significant diurnal temperature variation, which helps to retain acidity

2.    Variety of Soils

o    Tuffeau Limestone: This soft, porous limestone is a hallmark of the region, particularly in areas like Vouvray and Saumur. It retains moisture and provides excellent drainage, contributing to the minerality and structure of the wines.

o    Gravel and Sand: These well-draining soils are common in areas like Chinon and Bourgueil

o    Schist and Slate: Particularly prevalent in Anjou, these soils impart a distinct minerality and are excellent for both red and white wines.

3.    Topography

o    The Loire River and its tributaries create a landscape of gentle slopes and riverbanks. These valleys provide excellent sun exposure and air circulation and allows for diverse vineyard sites with different exposures and microclimates.

Western Cape

1.    Climate

o    Mediterranean Climate: Paarl and Swartland experiences a typical Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters. These areas are further inland and do not enjoy the cool breezes from the coast. 

o    Temperature Variation: The region benefits from significant diurnal temperature variation, which helps in developing grape flavors and maintaining acidity.

2.    Soils

o    Granite-Based Soils: The soils in Paarl are primarily derived from decomposed granite. These soils are well-draining and provide a good balance of nutrients, which is ideal for viticulture.

o    Diverse Soil Types: Swartland is known for its diverse range of soil types, including granite, shale, slate, and iron-rich soils. This diversity allows for the cultivation of a variety of grape varieties and contributes to the complexity of the wines.

3.    Topography

o    Paarl is characterized by its mountainous terrain, particularly the Paarl Rock, a large granite outcrop. The varied elevations and slopes provide different microclimates and exposures, allowing for the cultivation of a range of grape varieties.

o     Swartland features a mix of rolling hills, valleys, and plains. The varied elevations create different microclimates, which are suitable for growing a range of grape varieties.  Swartland is home to many old, dry-farmed bush vines, some of which are over 50 years old. These old vines produce low yields of highly concentrated and complex fruit.